Jump to content

Recommended Posts

 

My LCD3 display blanks out on occasion, the bike shuts down and I get a code 3 error come up on the screen.
I have to turn everything off and then on for it to work again.
Any help out there?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Same thing, but the wire from the motor looks fine.  Does anyone have the error codes or a link to troubleshooting lcd/controller/battery issues?  Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The LCD has the following error codes to display:

  • Error code "00_info" > control unit communication error
  • Error code "01_info" > Thumb throttle error
  • Error code "03_info" > Motor hall signal error [what is a hall sensor]
  • Error code "04_info" > Torque sensor error [what is a torque sensor]
  • Error code "05_info" > Speed sensor error [what is a speed sensor]
  • Error code "06_info" > Motor or controller have connection problems

The user manual of the LCD doesn't contain more information about error codes.

And yes, it also doesn't contain information about an Error code "02_info".

I'd upload the user manual here, but since mine is in German language, that wouldn't be much of a help for the majority of you guys

Hey I found something in English language! Have a look below:

KT3-LCD_short_en.pdf

KT3-LCD_full_en.pdf

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank for the info and upload, 3D-vice!  After closer look, it was the motor cable connection. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The same thing happened to me tonight, and I had to leave the bike at work. >:(

I looked at my connections before I left, but was unable to find any loose. :S

If anyone is able to photograph which cable it is or the probable location where it would be loose, I would love you forever :x and be very happy :).

I would be even happier :D, if I did not have to walk that heavy ass bike home 1.1 miles mostly up hill in the morning O.o

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My disconnection was under the horizontal bar between the crank and back wheel. It was directly underneath, but I pulled it out a little to make it visible. 

image.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, I figured it out and I am sad to say that it is all connected properly and I'm gonna have to change out the damn sensor! At least I was taught to solder by the man who wrote the manual for the ANSI (formerly ASA) Standard! I have an iron and am fully capable of changing it out myself!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you buy the overpriced replacment from GoSondors it's plug and play.  The Ali replacment has a different connector so your soldering skills will come in handy. 

image.jpeg.f4c0624b2dc6d3f299c2db8744841cda.jpeg

Reddy

Edited by Reddy Kilowatt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PAS sensor, not Hall. It's on the bottom bracket spindle, behind the chainring. Move the magnet wheel closer to the pickup/sensor. Look up ⬆️ several posting for explanation of error code 3 and click on the link....Easy Peasy. 

Is this a continuation of the problems you reported earlier and never reported if your Sondors started working? 

Hall Sensor error is probably the Motor/Controller Higo Connector under the right chainstay is not fully connected.  

image.jpeg.f4c0624b2dc6d3f299c2db8744841cda.jpeg

Reddy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I was going to ride my bike but then a message error code 3 came up. I checked all of the connections on the bike. Plugged and re plugged it in. took the back wheel off checked the connections but i will push the gas it will move slightly and then it die and th code comes up. I was wonderingg if anyone had any ideas on what to do. 

 

Thanks 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll assume you have a box stock Sondors but of indeterminate style( Original, Fat, Narrow, Custom or Thin) That indicates a hall sensor failure. If you've followed all the suggestions above and all the connections are correct, it might be in the cable coming out of the Axel, especially if the bike has been dropped, crashed or otherwise damaged on that side. If it's not damaged there, make sure your PAS sensor, behind the chainwheel and the magnet wheel are aligned properly. Next I'd suspect it's your controller, if everything else in correct and aligned, there have been a number of controller failures reported lately.  Then lastly if you have ridden up many hills or otherwise stressed your motor you could have damaged the Hall Sensor Wires with excessive heat. The only other burnt motor we have reported was Houshmand's Sondors before he modified it, and appears the failure was by climbing the highest paved road in  Colorango and excessive heat. 

image.jpeg.f4c0624b2dc6d3f299c2db8744841cda.jpeg

Reddy

 

Edited by Reddy Kilowatt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for update. I do have the Thin sondors.  So two things that I have noticed it seems to get a little power when i give it gas then the code three comes on. Looking at two items on the bike one item fell off when I was turning it upside down I have pasted a picture below Is this the magnet for the PAS sensor. 

The wire coming out of the axle seems to be ok. looks like a little rubbing on it. Is there any way to fix it?

 

 

 

20170225_132846.jpg

20170225_132905.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know what that is, but it looks like a brake leverhttps://boltonebikes.com/collections/electrical-accessories/products/new-led-headlight-and-tail-light handel bar clamp. Again, the sensor magnet wheel and sensor are behind the chainwheel, on the bottom bracket Axel and look like this.

image.jpeg.815fa335fef17ca25e28fe282a82d837.jpeg

The fix for broken hall sensor wires might be accomplished by a top notch eBike shop but generally by replacing the motor.... but I don't think that's the problem, until you eliminate a bad throttle quadrant (what you are calling gas) or the PAS sensor or the Controller. I'm still betting it's a bad or wet connection on the motor cable connector, underneath the right chain stay. Unplug it again, check for moisture, and to be through, dry it with a hair dryer and reassemble, by carefully aligning the arrows on the connector halves, firmly.

let me know the result. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried with they hair dryer and cleaning it off and the realignment but this did not seem to work. Do you sell replacement motors for the bike. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, I only buy expensive Sondors stuff for my bikes. )) Try and find an eBike shop near you to physically diagnose your malady with a multimeter. You can buy, upgrade or replacment motors, controllers and batteries at several online offerings listed here on the forum for the full list but you can Computer Display Window Shop at Luna Cycles as a start.

https://lunacycle.com/sondors-upgrades/ 

image.jpeg.f4c0624b2dc6d3f299c2db8744841cda.jpeg

Reddy

Edited by Reddy Kilowatt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went to a ebike shop today and they said it was wires coming out of the rear hub. Pretty much a death sentence for the bike. Do you know if sondors sell replacement motors. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You mean you went in the last half hour?

Use the link I sent you to Luna and buy a motor. When you get it go back to the shop and have them install the wired side in your hub case. Presto Chango.

Edited by Tabletteer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah the ebike store is 3 blocks away. They are just really snobby about the sondors bikes. 

Looks like Lunacycle only sells the motor for the sondors fat bike not sure if it will work. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had this problem. I disassembled my motor and found that I had fairly bad corrosion, probably from salt water intrusion. I rode close to or probably in salt water at Biloxi beach this summer. I lubed with WD-40 and  got the motor loose enough to  get it out of the case.  I cleaned the rotor really well with a drill mounted wire wheel and cleaned the case with steel wool. I greased the gears well with Lubriplate (white lithium grease) and blew the WD-40 out of the windings with compressed air. Reassembled the motor. At first, the throttle was erratic and the 03 code came back but the noise was gone. The motor would run just fine for pedal assist. I ran it on the stand by pedal for probably 15 minutes and the throttle started working again. I guess the WD cleaned the sensor enough to work after it dried out.  So far,so good.  The symptoms that Steve77 reported were the same----error code 03 and noise from motor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

  • Similar Content

    • By SportFoldBoy420
      My lcd has just died on my Fold sport from water damage I'm quite sure so this is my perfect opportunity to upgrade I have been looking at the 750w bafang rear hub motor and they say it will lace in 350w motor no problem but I have the 250w bafang rear hub motor. Will it fit? But first I want too upgrade the sondors lcd to the ktc3 25 amp and 25 amp controller and will wait till sondors have the 48v 14 amp available in Europe  until i upgrade the motor as the 38v 8.8amp battery won't be powerful enough. Any suggestions or problems with my plan I would appreciate feed back
    • By Lane
      Hello everyone, I currently have an Original Sondors Fat Tire bike from 2016 (I believe).  I purchased it from a friend who had performed some upgrades to it.
      As the bike sits today:
      Luna Storm 48v 20ah Battery Controller Model KT36/48ZWSRMD-SLSLD02 Rated for DC 36v or 48v, Rated current 12A Maximum current 25+-1A (Assuming this is from Luna as well) Original Motor Bafang RMG06 36v 350W(10) 26-1-1508195560-6 LCD Luna LCD Dashboard for Sondors KT-LCD3 Took the bike out for a ride the other day after it had been sitting in the garage for about a month and received a motor hall connection error on my LCD screen. Tried the usual unplugging the connection under the chainstay and making sure I had charged the battery. I'm wondering if I am able to replace the cable coming out of my motor (if that is the culprit) or if I need to replace the motor altogether. If that is the case, would anyone recommend I upgrade to a 48v motor? Would it make a difference/ work with my existing upgrades? I'm new to the forum and Ebike scene in general so I appreciate any help. Thanks!
    • By Albert Werth
      SONDORS X arrived on January 7, 2019. 
      Living in Southwest Florida has made it easy for me to ride every other day.  I am recovering from a bone on bone knee with a  damaged  medial collateral ligament. 
      After a full year of daily PEMF treatments and two Prolotherapy injections, my Prolotherapy  doctor recommended that I start exercising using a bicycle to stimulate the natural lubricant within my recovering knee joint. I started exercising with a standard road bike, but  was not able to “Spin” with minimal effort as instructed.  I own a 2010 electric recumbent trike, but is it is next to impossible to get in and out of a bike several inches off the ground.   I recall seeing the SONDORS advertised several years ago and decided on the SONDORS “X”.  I use the thumb switch to move the Fat Tire “X” up to 16+ miles per hour, then put the bike into 7th  gear and move the pedal assist to  Number 3, this allows me to Spin at the optimal level, without causing stress on my knees.  I started with five minutes the first week and I have added five minutes per week, I am now at 20 minutes, and this technique has allowed me to build muscle riding it every other day. I have been able to move the pedal assist down to number 2, my goal is to ride on  Fort  Myers Beach after I have built enough muscle in my legs. My target for the beach is early March!
      My SONDORS X is a very well-built fat tire bike and has been the perfect platform for my recovery!  I don’t see myself going back to my electric trike or the road bike, the sign on my front lawn, “BIKES FOR SALE”
      Thank you SONDORS!
      Al
      P.S., Super easy to accessorize 

    • By DavidN
      I purchased the August 2018 run XS Fat and received in Jan 2019. The admin password for advanced settings is 1515.
       
    • By Mike Ritchie
      Over the last several years SONDORS has evolved the electrical systems of their bikes from open/generic Bafang to several different proprietary set-ups. The purpose of this document is to briefly explain each generation of bike and explore the issue of parts compatibility for upgrades and repairs.
      The original "Original" (Generation 1)
      In 2015 the SONDORS e-bike was born after backers on crowd-funding site Indiegogo waited for up to half a year for the first $499 e-bike. There was only one bike, and it came in a few different color combinations. The bike was single speed and there was no LCD available until months later, and shipping was $174 extra. It used an 8.7Ah bottle battery and there were no extended batteries available except from third party vendors months later. All of the bikes used the standard 3-LED, 6 pin throttle still in use today on single speed bikes.
      Identification:
      These bikes are easily identified from a few visual clues:
      The words “e-bike” printed on the battery box under the original SONDORS logo (see pic) The etched controller serial number does NOT have the letter “U” at the end They came in only a few colors that were never produced again – Yellow with orange anodized aluminum wheels, Black with red wheels and printing, and Black with yellow wheels and printing Compatibility:
      These bikes used a generic controller, which makes them the only SONDORS bike where you can add an aftermarket generic LCD (like the KT-LCD3)
      without replacing the controller. It also easy takes a 20A or 25A controller upgrade, which again will work with the stock throttle and any aftermarket or SONDORS LCD (available later in the year) that works with the SONDORS controller.
      When SONDORS started shipping an LCD, it said SONDORS on it even though it used generic protocol. This is why you can’t tell what bike you have based on whether or not it says SONDORS on it.
       
       
       
      The  Kickstarter Generation (Generation 2)
      Following a successful and disruptive IGG campaign, SONDORS did a follow-up campaign through Kickstarter. These bikes were mostly sold and distributed in 2016 and into early 2017, and came in a wide range of unique colors (Caribbean blue, gray, pink, and others), and new options. They still used the bottle battery, but you could now get an aluminum frame bike, an extended range battery, 4.0in tires, and even first-generation front shocks. They were still single speed, but they abandoned the generic controller for a proprietary one, which started the complicated path of compatibility.
      Identification:
      A lot of bikes fall into this generation, and again there are some visual clues
      No more “e-bike” printed on the battery box The etched controller serial number now contains the letter “U” at the end, signifying a new, proprietary controller. The bike will also have a bottle battery and not a newer triangle battery The bike on the right is a 2nd generation SONDORS fat bike with optional shocks, 4.0 inch tires, and an aftermarket black trim kit and Ibera RA5 rear rack. Compatibility:
      This is the beginning of SONDORS using a proprietary protocol for their controllers. If you have one of these bikes and want to keep the stock 15A controller, the only place you can get an LCD is from SONDORS. Your bike will run using an aftermarket LCD like the KT-LCD3, but the display will be wonky. It may not show speed, the PAS controls might not work, and the battery level display won’t be right.
      Most owners with these bikes wanting an LCD (it wasn’t included) choose to swap out their controllers for an aftermarket 20A or 25A version (around $55-$65) and add a generic LCD for around the same price. The 3-LED throttle works fine with these aftermarket controllers. Because these bikes have a 350W motor with the smaller plug, going above 25A will usually require a motor swap and usually an upgraded battery at no small cost. Many people do 48v or 52v upgrades using huge, aftermarket triangle batteries for higher top end speed and more range than the average butt can handle.
      The first SONDORS direct generation (Generation 3)
      This could actually be 2 or 3 generations with all of the changes happening, but from a compatibility standpoint I’ll lump them all together. Following the IGG and KS crowdfunding campaigns, SONDORS took ordering in-house. They started with a bike that looked just like the KS bikes but with some new colors (including red and royal blue) and also included a bottle battery. For ease, I’m going to include those bottle battery bikes sold direct into the Generation 2 bucket because technically they’re similar. However, as 2016 turned into 2017 SONDORS started introducing triangle batteries, gears, the Thin, Fold, and even the X bikes. This generation used the proprietary KT-LCD3 LCD with SONDORS printed on it, and maintained the proprietary 15A controller with the “U” in the serial number. However, this new controller now had different plugs for the new triangle and fold batteries which added some complexity.
      This is also when SONDORS introduced 7 speed bikes, which also introduced a proprietary 3 pin throttle. These 3 pin throttles look similar to the Bafang BBSHD throttle, BUT the pins are male instead of female. This is to keep owners from plugging the throttle into the PAS plug on the controller. These throttles are only available from SONDORS, although you can sometimes find them for sale by owners that have swapped theirs out.
      Identification:
      There are so many bikes that fall into this generation you are better off using process of elimination. If your bike has a bottle battery, it’s either Generation 1 or Generation 2. If your bike has a triangle battery AND a rectangular LCD based on the KT-LCD3, you fall into this generation.
      The picture on the right is a SONDORS-KT LCD3 LCD.
      Compatibility:
      This is where compatibility gets “fun”. Like with previous SONDORS bikes that are not “Generation 1”, aftermarket LCDs will not work with the stock 15A controller. The bike will run, but the display will be messed up. Here are some key points:
      If you want to keep the stock controller, you will need to get the replacement LCD from SONDORS If you want to upgrade your controller to 20A or 25A, you will need a new, aftermarket LCD. You can get the tried and true KT-LCD3, but one of the known vendors is now selling a compatible color LCD for around $20 more. If you upgrade the controller, you will need to get one with the correct battery connector, OR transplant the connector from your old controller to your new one. Most generic controllers are just 2 wire If you have a 7 speed bike, you will also need to replace the throttle if you upgrade the controller. This is because the aftermarket controllers use the 6 pin throttle and not the SONDORS 3 pin version If you need a new throttle for a single speed bike, you can get a generic 6 pin throttle from known vendors. If you need a new throttle for a 7 speed bike, you have only a couple of choices – buy one from SONDORS, or swap out the controller, LCD and throttle to something generic and not proprietary  Another option is a brand new upgrade kit available form SONDORS. This includes an upgraded controller and color LCD for around $200. If you get the right kit the LCD will be set correctly and it will be compatible with the throttle Easy, right?
      Current mid-2018 Generation (Generation 4)
      In mid-2018 SONDORS switched out the controller and LCD for a new square version called the KD51C-KDS (aka KD51). This new display is completely different under the hood, and it’s gotten mixed reviews. People like that you can adjust PAS power levels, but many dislike that you can no longer see voltage on the display. All bikes during this generation were changed. They all still have triangle batteries, but the controllers and LCD for the “Original” (yes, the name is confusing), Thin, Fold, X, Sport and Mini are all changed.
      Identification:
      This one is easy. If you have a KD51 LCD, you have what we’re calling a Generation 4 bike. The picture on the right is the KD51.
      Compatibility:
      All of the compatibility notes from Generation 3 still apply, but it’s also important to note that none of the previous generation controllers are compatible with this LCD, and none of the previous generation LCDs (or generics) are compatible with the Generation 4 controller.
      You still need to be aware of the single speed versus 7 speed throttle compatibility with this new controller While Generation 2 and 3 LCDs and controllers are interchangeable with each other, neither are interchangeable with Generation 4 This is why many with LCD, controller or throttle issues choose to go towards generic again unless covered under warranty by SONDORS. Like with previous generations, SONDORS now sells an upgrade kit for around $200 that contains a new color LCD and either a 20A or 25A controller depending on the bike. These kits will also not be compatible with aftermarket parts, but it will maintain compatibility with your throttle if you get the right kit. November 2018
      1.0.0 - Mike Ritchie
  • Popular Now



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.