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You’ll need a Tektro Hydraulic Service Kit if you plan to replace pads and bleed them in the future. You can’t do much maintenance without it. 
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTRO-Basic-Bleed-Hydraulic-Brake/dp/B088PQVXYH/ref=asc_df_B088PQVXYH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507647892954&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4809686198700992507&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9059462&hvtargid=pla-931200771823&psc=1

But in the meantime you can try removing the caliper from its mount but leave the adapter, and remove the brake pads. Then gently, try and move the piston back in its cylinder. A large slot screwdriver will work but again, don’t force it. If it doesn’t want to move, the system is probably in hydraulic lock. The reason is probably in the handlebar brake lever. The piston in that lever is probably stuck but it might take disassembly to release it and discover why. Mis-installed O-ring¿   You can’t service the brakes without the service kit. Loosening either port should resolve the hydraulic lock but without the kit you can’t then setup and bleed the brake, after allowing any air into the system, by opening a port. 
Any competent bicycle shop can service the problem. Call Sondors.com, talk to an agent and see if they can recommend a local shop near you. Even if they can’t they should reimburse you for the service, as long as it isn’t because of a crash or some damage that’s user created. They’re pretty reliable about issues, especially on new bikes. You can review Tektro Brake Bleeding Videos on youtube. 
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            REDDY

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Hey Ya Bum … Hat on Tight, Ur Gonna Get Wet. 
What does it say on your Brake Caliper? Tektro? 
I use two syringes on on my Magura MT-5E’s, but that’s only because I have 2.  The one on the lever I use is mostly a funnel without the plunger. You can use a section of tubing (which I see in the Tektro kit) or just monitor the hydraulic fluid in the levers reservoir, straight and level so the port is at the high point for the system and requires loosening the lever mounting bolt and rotating it, monitoring the open port so the fluid level is flush with the top of the open port. A rag on the brake lever to catch overflow.  Some mechanics like to use two syringes and work the fluid back & forth between the two syringes to help evacuate air bubbles, sucking the fluid from one to the other. There are a multitude of mechanics personal preferences and procedures that they like. I do like to  move the fluid back and forth, but I do it with the just bottom syringe alone, while the top syringe is just a  reservoir of brake fluid, moving the fluid back and forth while tapping the lever reservoir and alternately the caliper, to dislodge any air bubbles.  (most bicycle brake fluid is mineral oil and Magura tints it red and calls it Royal Blood so it’s more expensive). It’s a simple process that can cause you to pull out your hair out because any air in the system is compressible (fluids are not) and causes a spongy lever and poor brake modulation. 
One of my jobs in the military was overhauling aircraft brakes in a intermediate hydraulic shop then later, trouble shooting all hydraulic systems on aircraft. My most important tool was a 9/16th Grease Rag.  You never want to get a speck of fluid or any other contaminants on the Disc or Pads but that’s a whole other problem that can be complicated to  remedy. It’s a good idea to remove the pads during brake bleeding procedures. If I’m doing  Maintenance  on existing of Tektro Cable  Mechanical Brakes, I usually replace the pads because you can buy a shoe box full of pads for cheap, on Aliexpress. Magura’s are really expensive and 4 pads per caliper, so I wear them till replacement is necessary. 
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             Reddy

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