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Sondors X - display not powering on, no assistance SOLVED


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Hi, 

I bought a Sondors X about two years ago. I've ridden about 1000 miles on it.  It's the model with 48V 17.5Ah battery and I think 20A controller. The display is the square KD51C version.
Yesterday morning the display just didn't power on and there is no power going to the motor. I can hear a rapid clicking sound coming from inside the display when I'm trying to power on the bike with the power-on button on the handlebar control. The battery is about 75% charged so there definitely should be power available (the battery indicator on the battery itself shows 3 out of 4 lights and the night before, when the bike was working perfectly, the display showed 3 out of 5 bars).

Do you have any idea is it the display or the controller that has gone wrong? I've tried to disconnect everything, let it rest for a while and then re-connected everything with no luck. Is there anything else I could try?

Edited by 0401365
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I’d start by checking for voltage inside the controller to LCD’s, HiGo connector with your multimeter, to see if power is getting to the LCD. Should be low voltage because it’s only a control signal. Have you tried eliminating the LCD from the circuit by replacing the Higo connector cap that you removed to install the LCD when you assembled your Sondors? If your Sondors does regain basic function, the problem is probably the LCD. 
https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/07311eb3-00dc-4383-8b32-3d08ce5ac7ed
28C2D9CE-B578-4127-BAC2-8C3252C2F97E.jpeg.87bfeff53ceffea891c43669e97ae427.jpeg

   REDDY

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On 2/15/2021 at 6:19 PM, Reddy Kilowatt said:

I’d start by checking for voltage inside the controller to LCD’s, HiGo connector with your multimeter, to see if power is getting to the LCD. Should be low voltage because it’s only a control signal. Have you tried eliminating the LCD from the circuit by replacing the Higo connector cap that you removed to install the LCD when you assembled your Sondors? If your Sondors does regain basic function, the problem is probably the LCD. 
https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/07311eb3-00dc-4383-8b32-3d08ce5ac7ed
28C2D9CE-B578-4127-BAC2-8C3252C2F97E.jpeg.87bfeff53ceffea891c43669e97ae427.jpeg

   REDDY

Holy crap it's alive! I unplugged the display, plugged in the Higo cap and voila, there is power! Thanks Reddy! 

Now I just need to replace the display... Any suggestions besides sondors.com (which I for whatever reason think will take ages to arrive if I order from there)?

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  • 0401365 changed the title to Sondors X - display not powering on, no assistance SOLVED

Not necessarily, you could replace both your display, with an aftermarket display  & upgrade to 25 Amp controller from Electrobikeworld.com   https://electrobikeworld.com/products 

or Boltonebikes.com   https://boltonebikes.com/collections/motor-controllers-and-displays

for slightly more that just the Replacement Displays cost at Sondors. Not only would you see an increase in performance but you’ll never be plagued by the proprietary communication protocol issue, that’s a marketing tool, to charge more money for LCDs & Controllers. 

Always communicate with our preferred vendors before pushing the buy button for correct product compatibility. 
28C2D9CE-B578-4127-BAC2-8C3252C2F97E.jpeg.87bfeff53ceffea891c43669e97ae427.jpeg

   REDDY

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bike keeps dying. Display fine but power all gone, pedal and throttle and in all speeds. Battery at 4 bars so it’s not that. Bike is Fold XS bought last October. Got a replacement controller from Sondors in December which seemed to fix the same problem but it has now returned. I have ridden it 415 kilometers from new.

Checked all the connections last weekend and all seem good. Please help

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Just back with shunt installed. Same thing - rode about one mile with power, then dead! Had to pedal home with no power. As usual, power returned just as I was parking the bike back home!

Tried switching power off and on again while power was out but it made no difference.

This seems exactly the same as in October/November before I received the new controller.

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With all connections already checked, it ain’t the Display. Two culprits are possible,  again the Controller, and possibly the motor itself. Check with your, ‘hand to the touch", is the motor or controller hot when the disruption occurs. Warm is normal. 
Bafang Hub Motors are considered robust and called Bullet Proof but they do fail. Most fail from what could be considered abuse. Like riding up the highest pass in Colorado where member Houshmand fried the 350Watt Bafang on his Original Sondors.  If you constantly use high or full power,  that might indicate a intermittent motor cutout due to heat. Water getting inside the motor case, causing failure (rust) is more commonly reported or discovered.  On an outside chance, try disconnecting the battery from the controller and reconnecting. This strategy was recommended to reboot the controller, as a first action. We have also had at least one battery switch identified as intermittent and with the canister batteries, bad wire connections inside the battery base causing failures. You can check if battery is delivering any power to the controller with your multimeter during the shut down. Likewise you can check for voltage in the large Higo motor connector.  Generally finding the culprit is following the money trail… I mean voltage trail.   
A28EDD3E-259F-49C2-AF12-23DE78C41A44.jpeg.6cf6239f64b9fdc300ac2e7c611f7f9c.jpeg

     REDDY

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Thanks, Reddy. Will do. 

It seems almost exactly like the controller fault that the bike had at the beginning. I tried switching on and off but that doesn’t make a difference. Also “folding” but that doesn’t bring it back either. I do wonder about the motor as it has always been noisy - sort of like an old electric tram, but I am probably the only one old enough to remember the noise they made!

WHere/how do I look for power with the multimeter, please?

 

Archie

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If your motor is making noise (other than regularly produced operating noise [you’d need a frame of reference]) that could be your power problem and you might have dislodged or loose permanent magnets inside the motor. One sure indicator is if the motor/rear wheel won’t rotate backwards or makes scraping noises while trying to reverse its rotation. That’s not the only symptom but if the motor has binding inside, it should be associated with heat (friction) and a very warm motor case might be an indicator. Looking inside is the best way to find motor problems. 

You trace / look for voltage downstream from the battery, to, then past the controller to the motor lg Higo connector, as I’ve suggested in my previous post.  Whenever you fail to read voltage, the previous component is suspect.
https://youtu.be/GZX3MyBkMvA
6D623358-D921-4FA0-AC5C-1500A5214DA7.jpeg.7f14a03ab86fcccc0192b0afa492830d.jpeg

        REDDY

You could probably benefit from reading various technical articles from here:   https://www.electricbike.com/category/technical/ 

 

 

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