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Full Detailed Specifications for 2020 Sondors X


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The best that is online and that’s pretty limiting is on the Sondors.com X page. https://shop.sondors.com/pages/sondors-x
 electricbikereview.com doesn't even review it and some of their review data is either incomplete or wrong on some Sondors models. A Cursory Google search doesn’t reveal  anything pertinent. 
The best I can do is suggest info and data embedded in this forum and mostly dealing with upgrades to the Original Sondors. Basically the same except for the frame it’s self. The X has a larger battery box to accommodate the 48V Sondors Battery with reconfigured interior baffling and the frame has a slightly longer wheelbase and the chainstays are slightly different. The front Air Fork, is of course different, than the Original’s or the 2nd Generation’s optional front Spring Suspension Fork. 

I’d also suggest starting your review here by looking through members; BikNut, Houshmand Moarefi and Matt Robertson’s posts for upgrades. One word of caution, what was considered a couple of ultimate upgrades to the Sondors Fats were renditions resulting in; All Wheel Drive or Dual Drive versions.  Both of these were interesting experiments but neither proved to be sustainable, one separated the Head Tube and all parts salvaged to build a Titanium Framed bike and the other sold. 
Because of the excessive weight, no real performance gains (only in acceleration, not top speed) and near uncontrollability. They are actually quite dangerous, unless their expected use is on a dragstrip. Parts count, in all electrical is doubled; motors, batteries, controllers, throttles and LCD screens. 

I could better suggest, if you’d post what components you’re considering upgrading.  Every component on my own EBL has been upgraded except the Fork, Frame and Bottom Bracket. 
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           REDDY

 

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Thanks again Reddy for your thoughtful and detailed response. I first researched for more detailed specs list but, like you, could not find any. 
My X is going to be used primarily for snow and trail riding, so my potential upgrades relate to speed, tire protection and overall reliability. I noticed that some folks are swapping out the stock 14-28 freewheel for an 11-28 to give adequate pedal power to reach maximum PAS limits. I’ve also seen some swap outs of the front chainring to a larger cog number to further the effort I just described. I’ve ordered a DNS 11-28 freewheel, but I’d like to know, for example, what chainring is on the SX or MXS because it does look larger. I think someone mentioned a 53T would not affect the chain alignment to require BB movement because I’m not interested in making too much effort for a few extra MPH.
Eventually I might swap out the 500W Bafang for the 750W and upgrade the controller to 25A but probably not at this point. For summer trail riding I might swap out the 4.9s for some 4.0s that I have to make the ride a little more nimble in the woods. I’ve added a dropper seatpost and this has been a huge game-changer for trail riding, because the bike is much larger than my hard tail electric and the seat definitely needs to go down in the more technical sections.

Aside from a couple of front tire goathorn flats from nasty briars, I’ve really enjoyed this bike. I think Sondors has come a long way with their Original and I like the progression to a larger capacity and range battery using higher quality cells and to a more powerful rear hub motor. I’d prefer some Avid mechanicals that I’ve found to be the best mechanical stoppers out there  (I’ve owned hydros but they are a PITA to maintain).

 Good stuff so far!!!

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I’ll reply to your priority upgrades first and to maximize gear ratios I’d suggest an 11 x 34, those are hard to find in cassette but this 12 x 32 cassette is available. The higher 6 cogs are pretty close ration but the 32 is a necessary bail-out, jump in low, when you need it for hills. https://tinyurl.com/ReddysFavCogs
Although I’ve spent some time in Boston, in the city, when I drove a Bobtail Truck, from Texas, full of Art Glass I created for a Restaurant on Newberry St near Mass Ave,"Finn’s" that’s no longer there, with a bunch of Rock & Roll memorabilia in the truck for the Boston Hard Rock Cafe. That was another one of my clients, Isaac Tigrett’s venues, in Boston, before I retired, The City is pretty flat and that trip was a long drive from Texas and Isaac Tigrett’s home base, but I can’t really remember terrain outside the city. 
‘You can fit as large as a 60T chainring, per Matt Robertson’s modifications and my two highly modified Sondors, uses a 56T and 58T.  Nether should require BB adjustment on the Latest Sondors Fat Tire Frame. 
I did build a narrower double wall (for durability) 80mm front rim with 12G spokes with a 26 x 4.0 front tire for better handling on the pavement but I appreciate the extra rolling diameter or my Vee Tire Mission Command II’s 26 x 4.7 tire on the wider 100mm new rear Double Wall rim on the rear. Small diameter tires only reduce my top speed on my, mostly on road riding. I’ve used both Slime and now I’ve switched to Trucker Co Tire sealant in my tires. Neither last more than a year max. There are now Tannus Armour tire inserts with thick foam material between the diameter of the tire carcass and the tube to reduce punctures. I’m still waiting for better reviews from 4.9" tire advocates here on the forum.  I once abandoned a tour on the Caprock Canyon Trailway (converted RR line) on one of my Cannondale H400 hybrid’s, the camper. Although I had heavily Slimed the Tires, I got almost 100 goatheads in the first 100 yards. Spent an hour with hemostats and knife blade tip, prying and removing all the spines. 
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My driveway

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Although I do ride some gravel including my own driveway.  
Lastly I’d recommend the 35Amp controller along with the 750 watt motor upgrade when you get around to it. You get considerably more torque with the bigger controller. Amps = Torque & Acceleration, Volts = Speed.  And the 750watt motor’s working parts slip right into the 500Watt’s Case. The Cases are identical, except for the nomenclature on the outside of the case. 
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       REDDY

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Thanks for the heads up on specific upgrades. I originally ordered the 11-28 but I just found an 11-34 and ordered that instead. The added range to help with sharp hills is a good point!

I need to look for a front chainring that is an easy swap within the 53T to 56T range-if you or anyone knows of an easy replacement on the 2020 Sondors X please let me know.

 I actually live north of Boston on Cape Ann (the other Cape) and there is a vast network of trails with dramatic glacial effects resulting in mixed bag of easy to very technical riding opps. So far the X has been pretty good at taking what these trails are dishing out (Cape Ann Granite is rather unforgiving in its compliance, it gives the term “hard as a rock” new meaning). Anyhow, thanks also for recommending the 35A controller vs 25A-off-hand do you know the model numbers on the 750W and 35A? I want to make sure I get the right parts as I’m installing myself and would love to get it right the first time!

I also loaded the tubes with Slime and ordered the Tuffy liners but won’t install them until I need to do so. All my riding is local so if the Slime fails I will walk home and install the liner with a newly-Slimed tube.

 Thanks again!!!
 

 

 

 

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Make sure that cogset is compatible with your 500Watt Bafang. I think it’s a cassette not a freewheel but I ain’t got a 500 so make sure. 
This lasko has a bash-ring that you’ll appreciate but any Square Taper, Single Ring, 56T in a Google search should fit if it has offset in the crankarms to clear the chainstay on the non-drive side. 

https://www.amazon.com/Crankset-Aluminum-Chaingard-Folding-Bicycles/dp/B00NZI8ZS8   This is on my EBL. 
Here is another possibility. You could buy a double Chainring Crank Set (or triple and modify it into a double) and manually switch chain to the inner, smaller chainring for an overall low range, for particularly challenging trails.  A 53T x 39T would be "Wicked Smart". 
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

You’ll need to purchase another chain to complete the transition in re-gearing. My recommendation is to buy two (not trying to spend your moola) KMC 8.99 full nickel silver 8 speed chains. Be careful when you purchase these, as one eBay retailer sent me a KMC 8.93 labeled X-8 which could be either but the .93 is only nickel on the outside plates and .99 is both, inner and outer and slipperier and more durable, longer lasting. On the upside, he refunded my money and didn’t require I send it back.  Break one, to add to your existing chain or, use both new chains with all your new drive components. These chains are the best wearing chains without going to very expensive eBike Chains that are overkill on hub motored eBikes, that are designed for mid drives that see more drivechain abuse. I use a combination of Homemade Paraffin Based Wax + PTFE, in a slow cooker Crock Pot, to lubricate my chains. I bought two crock pots at Goodwill for $10 apiece, kept one at the shop, one at home and waxed every couple of weeks, then use White Lightning Clean Ride, after every couple of rides to supplement. My regular routes are 25 & 42mi. 
https://youtu.be/HHr9znwpwmQ     Good info for sizing your new longer chain.   https://sondorsforum.com/topic/3548-how-to-size-a-chain/?tab=comments#comment-12678

One thing I’ve found out about sealant, is that a goat head sticker’s spine, will keep puncturing the tube and sealant on every revolution of the tire in the same hole, so if you identify your tire going down, try and find that tiny elusive spine and dig it out, so the sealant can clog the hole. I carry a multi tool in my top tube trunk and the knife blade and needle nose are helpful in removing them.  The smaller cheaper multi tools have smaller implements than larger more expensive tools. I also park my bikes next to my tall 8’ x 8’ Glass Cutting Table in my studio, with the kickstand on the opposite side, to the table … because if a rear tire goes flat overnight (90% of flats are on the rear) the bike tips over to the opposite side of the stand, and rests on the table and not on the cement floor risking damage to the LCD (I’ve fabricated an aluminum mounting bracket after the first incident) or the very expensive, to replace, Magura Brake Levers.   I should manufacture more of these PVC stands that capture a Crank Arm that I use on some of my conventional bikes that aren’t hanging from the 10’ ceiling of my studio.

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                                 REDDY


 

 

 

 

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