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Michael Canales

What size are the rotors on the fold X

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Sorry if this is answered already.  I couldn't find it.  I think my rotor is warped after some difficulty putting the rear tire on.  So if someone knows what size and type of rotor I need, please let me know.   Also, less important,  I broke the plastic frame that holds the original monochrome screen.  Anybody know where I can get a new frame.

Thanks

Michael

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It really helps, when diagnosing your query, if you include which model Sondors  your referencing .  I’ll guess, it’s one of  the most common. 
You can "true" (straighten / bend) your Brake Disc Rotor back into trued, IF you have patients and a pretty large crescent wrench. Parks Tool even makes a specific and better tool for the process because it has a deep slot.  You might consider a trip to your LBS (local bike shop) to begin a relationship for any help you might need in the future. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0c2Ez2v0PU
If you find it necessary to just buy a replacement for your Tektro Mechanical Disc Brake , this is the standard OEM rotor. 
https://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=97

But a quick search on eBay, results this, as the low cost option with slightly different cooling holes then my Sondors Original old disc rotors, I’ve replaced with larger discs Magura MT-5e brakes sets .  It appears to be the same Rotor offered by Sondors for a fraction of the price shown below this listing.
https://www.jejamescycles.com/tektro-160mm-disc-rotor-wave-vvr5579.html?___store=us

https://shop.sondors.com/collections/parts-store/products/brake-disc

Yes it you have the "KT-LCD3 Display" they have ridiculously fragile mounting bracket. I fabricated a new bracket out of aluminum but I’d recommend this aftermarket version.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Bracket-For-Sondors-Ebike-/333523510128

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             REDDY

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Hello Reddy Kilowatt,

I just experienced the fact that the mounting bracket for the LCD is very fragile, indeed. It gave up on me when I installed new handlebar and mounted the LCD in a hot day. I did not over-tighten the screws (or so did I think) as the LCD was still rotating by hand around the handlebar... but... in the morning the following day I found that both sides just snapped where the screws were. Even worse, same thing happened with the buttons, ugh! I came across the same bracket you linked and wonder if you used it and is it any good (i.e. does it not rotate freely or shake too much when it is secured with the rubber bands?).

Do you know if it is possible to find somewhere the buttons with their housing (or just the housing)? Or any DIY ideas that maybe you came across for fixing it?

Thanks.

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Actually, I’ve experience both those mounting failures on my Electric Black Lightning (LCD Mounting Bracket) & Electric White Lightning (Control Buttons). 
I constructed a new bracket for the LCD.  ____i———I___  out of some sheet aluminum. (Lowe’s / Home Depot)  If you do this, note that aluminum can usually only be bent to shape once in one direction. Any re-bending will probably break at the re-bend.  Thinner is usually better than trying thicker stock for durability. I had stock on hand but brass would probably be easier to work with. K&S @ Hobby Lobby. 
On the button switches, I use very thin double side sticky foam tape. Doesn’t sound like a very secure or permanent solution but it really is and be sure you position the switch button in exactly the perfect position before the tape gets it’s grip. Tape cut to width, and placed on the bar first.
With literally a million of these devices sold and in use, seems that the manufacture would upgrade design or quality of the plastic. Handlebars and objects mounted on them take a beating. I manufactured my own copper bar end to protect the expensive carbon fiber bars on both my bikes. Plastic bar ends are poor protection. If you ride a bike you’re gonna fall. The ends of the bars, almost always take the hit. 
 B31984C4-3251-46DF-94D1-9AF7A4E9C5EC.jpeg.ddb806d1b17747fa5c45b18f8744a181.jpeg
 There have been worse, with lots of bark ground off, but during the next few days this bruise was down to the back of my knee and Ugly.
F041D007-0236-48C6-9F4A-4C6484D1B7C2.jpeg.00e012adf5e04768a1ab0db40e872129.jpeg
                           REDDY

                      

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Hi Reddy, 

that is a simple and good idea - the tape... Many thanks for the suggestion. In addition one could probably try to stick the control buttons between the handle and the break lever.

All the best.

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HOWDY Bar 1 2 3,

Well, this ain’t my first Rodeo. That was about 1964 in Tioga Texas at the Rodeo Grounds. 
This here be Texas and on that town’s, one cross street square ... "It Weren’t Even a Square", was only a fourth of a square, where the old timers played checkers in front of the long closed hardware store and we’d go into to town for the $1.85 plate lunch at the Drug Store, which included dessert, (the sweet course) after the main meal, w/2 vegetables, and your beverage, way back when. 

31FF537A-61FB-4B5E-A6A8-EE85CB8032CF.jpeg.30f9874cb01a9caef608a00243f156b0.jpeg

 That’s where I lived and worked on the 2B— (Two B Bar) Black Angus Cattle Ranch, that we affectionately nicknames "El Rancho Costa Plenty" where the only entertainment was a transistor clock radio or the Rat Shot War, Don’t Ask. I learned to ride on the backs of Black Angus Steers, before serious bikes! 
Yippie Tie Yi Yo. 
28C2D9CE-B578-4127-BAC2-8C3252C2F97E.jpeg.87bfeff53ceffea891c43669e97ae427.jpeg
    REDDY

 

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