Jump to content

Sondors eBike - LCD Display - Setup Instructions


RoyalTS
Message added by Andi

Please note this information applies to the SONDORS/Aftermarket KT-LCD3 Displays. Delivered before Dec. 2017! 

New LCD Display: https://sondorsforum.com/topic/2051-2018-sondors-ebike-kd51c-lcd-setup-manual/

 

 

Recommended Posts

Here you can find the right settings for your Sondors eBike generic LCD!

KT LCD3 settings for Sondors

buy a LCD here: klick

Max. Speed: leave it, or set it to 25 km/h
Wheel Diameter: 29 for 4.9" tires, 28 for 4.0"
Metric and Imperial Units: your choice:)
P1 = 100 (Motor Characteristic Parameter Setting Mode, 1 - 255)
P2 = 6 (Wheel Speed Pulse Signal Setting Mode, 0 - 6)
P3 = 1 (Power Assist Control Mode, 0 or 1)
P4 = 0 (Handlebar Startup Mode, 0 or 1)
P5 = 12 (Power Monitoring Mode, 0 - 40)


C1 = 01 (Power Assist Sensor and Parameter Select Mode, 00 - 07)
C2 = 0 (Motor Phase Classification Coding Mode, 0 - 7, 0:sin wave)
C3 = 8 (Power Assist Ratio Gear Initialization Mode, 0 - 8 ) (C3=6 WARNING! Bike starts running forward on it’s own at power up!)
C4 = 0 (Handlebar Function Setting Mode, 0 - 4)
C5 = 10 (Controller Maximum Current Adjustment Mode, 00 - 10)
C6 = 3 (Backlight Brightness Adjustment Mode, 1 - 5)
C7 = 1 (Cruise Function Setting Mode, 0 or 1)
C8 = 1 (Motor Operating Temperature Display Mode, 0 or 1)
C9 = 0 (Startup Password Setting Mode, 0 or 1)
C10 = n (Automatically Restore Default Setting Mode, n or y)
C11 = 0 (Attribute Selection Mode, 0 - 2)
C12 = 4 (Controller Minimum Voltage Adjustment Mode, 0 - 7)
C13 = 0 (Brake energy recovery - recuperation - only works with the corresponding controller, 0 - 5)
C14 = 2 (Coordination of support levels, 1 - 3, 2 = standard)
(description of the C parameters follows)


Step by step / Details

What you should now to set up your KT LCD3 display:

General Settings:
Under power off status, hold the „power“ button long, the meter is turned on. Within 5 seconds after boot-up, hold „up“ and „down“ simultaneously for about 2 seconds. Now you are in the settings menu.
(between each setting parameter press „power“ to save and to get to the next parameter)

  1. Max. Speed: leave it
    For Europe: set it to 25 km/h to be on the legal side.
  2. Wheel Diameter:
    set it to what it is: 29 inches
  3. Metric and Imperial Units:
    your choice

After finishing metric/imperial unit settings, the speed and mileage units stop flashing. Within one minute after stoppong flashing, hold „up“ and „down“ simultaneously for about 2 seconds to enter the P parameter settings environment.


Need values for our motor are (http://www.szbaf.com/en/components/component/motor/rm-g06350d.html):

  • Cadence (Pulses/Cycle) 6/1
  • Reduction Ratio 1:5
  • Magnet Poles 20

P1 Motor Characteristic Parameter Setting Mode

P1 is motor characteristic parameter setting mode. P1 = motor gear reduction ratio x number of rotor magnet pieces, just rounding if there’s any decimal.
Sondors: Ratio 5 x 20 Magnet Poles = 100 = P1

P2 Wheel Speed Pulse Signal Setting Mode
P2 is wheel speed pulse signal setting mode. If wheel generated 1 pulse signal by a revolution, P2 should be set as1. If wheel generated 6 pulse signals by a revolution, P2 should be set as 6. If users didn’t configure the pulse signal system, and then P2 parameter setting can be 0. The setting range of P2 should be between 0-6.
0 : motor hall sensor only (speed is only shown while motor is working)
1-6: Pulses per Cycle
Sondors: Cadence (Pulses/Cycle) 6/1 = 6 = P2

P3 Power Assist Control Mode
P3 is for power assist control mode, when P3 parameter setting is1, power assist control mode is gear 5 of “imitation torque control” mode, when P3 parameter setting is 0, power assist control mode is gear 5 of “speed control” mode. P3 parameter needs to be determined according to the distributed function of the controller, its setting range is 0 or 1
Sondors: P3 = 1

P4 Handlebar Startup Mode
P4 is handlebar startup mode. When P4 setting is 1, indicating the handlebar is under
“non-zero startup” mode, namely, the handlebar can be effective only after startup the
foot power assist. When P4 setting is 0, indicating the handlebar is under “zero startup”
mode, the motor can be startup by the handlebar directly. P4 setting range is 0 or 1
Sondors: P4 = 0

P5 Power Monitoring Mode
P5 is power monitoring mode, when P5 setting is 0, the power monitoring is the “real-time voltage” mode. Namely, it is the method to determine the battery capacity based on real-time battery voltage. When P5 equals to a specified parameter, the power monitoring is the “smart power” mode (this parameter is determined by the battery characteristics, ordinary 24V lithium is generally is 4-11, 36V lithium is between 5_15). P5 setting ranges from 0-40.
E.g.:
9 = 24 V
12 = 36 V
15 = 48 V
Sondors: 36 V -> P5 = 12

To exit the programming mode just hold „power“ some seconds.


After finishing P parameter settings, the P5 parameter stops flashing. Within 1 minute after stopping flashing, hold “up” and “down” for about 2 seconds to enter the C parameter setting environment.

C1 Power Assist Sensor and Parameter Select Mode
C1 is power assist sensor and parameter select mode.

C1 Quantum power assist sensors or similar products
00 5 magnet sensor
01 8 magnet sensor
02 10 magnet sensor
03 12 magnet sensor
04
Power assist sensors from other manufacturers
05
06
07

Sondors: C1 = 02

C2 Motor Phase Classification Coding Mode
C2 is motor phase classification coding mode. It is served as identification parameter of different phases of the motor when using sine wave drive and the default value is 0.
When C2 setting is 0, indicating that the used Quantum motor phase is an ordinary one.
When the setting is a certain value, indicating a particular motor phase is used. C2 setting range is 0-7.
Sondors: C2 = 0

C3 Power Assist Ratio Gear Initialization Mode
C3 is initialization mode of power assist ratio gear. The setting range is 0-8 (gear).
When C3 setting is 0, the meter is switched on, and the power assist ratio is at gear 0. When the setting is 1, the meter is powered on and the power assist ratio is at gear 1, and so on.
Sondors: C3 = 8

C4 Handlebar Function Setting Mode

C5 Controller Maximum Current Adjustment Mode

C6 Backlight Brightness Adjustment Mode

C7 Cruise Function Setting Mode

  • Activate the Cruise Mode: 

C8 Motor Operating Temperature Display Mode

C9 Startup Password Setting Mode

C10 Automatically Restore Default Setting Mode

C11 Attribute Selection Mode

C12 Controller Minimum Voltage Adjustment Mode

C13 Brake energy recovery - recuperation - only works with the corresponding controller

C14 Coordination of support levels
(C Parameters are following some time)

 

Want a complete manual? (GENERAL Manual - not special for Sondors) Here you go: KT-LCD3 General Manual.pdf (to view/download you have to be logged in)

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@eddihu

You have a serious problem: Here’s an excerpt from the user manual of the KT LCD3 display:

Quote

Please note: If you have forgotten your password, the only way to reset it is to use the >>> copy from display to display <<< operation (see parameter copy).

In order to copy parameters from one display to another, both displays need to be wired using an adapter which allows you to connect and power both displays simultaneously. The user manual provides a wiring diagram how to do this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Andi featured this topic

@RoyalTS - Thanks for this, it was quite helpful when setting up my LCD last night! I found that much of the configuration was already on the right settings minus the max speed, kil/mph and c/f info. Also knowing about the lockout from @eddihu was a good heads up to be careful in that section.

@eddihu Honestly at $55 USD to order a third party display, it might be faster and easier to just order another for yourself, do the connected copy above to fix the issue, then resell the LCD you aren't using to someone else who wants one asap and get your money back. If I was in your area, I'd meet up with you to connect them up and help fix. Either way you go, hope you get it resolved!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Based on the wording in the config for this display, am I correct in assuming that the controller is using PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) to rotate the motor vs a steady stream of voltage to the motor? I know this is pretty standard for most electric motors, and to the avg person they'd never know it was not being propelled by a continuous stream of power.

If so, I wonder if there's any optimization we could do in the configuration to reduce the number of pulses just a little to gain some battery life and mileage without creating any issues with the motor or any noticeable "pulse" feel vs a steady smooth ride.

Sort of like when you hit the limited and the bike surges forward, then slows, then surges, then slows. Which is quite noticeable.

Id like to eak out a little more mileage at the cost of top end, since I'm not really interested in going past 20 MPH anyway. Thought this could be a good way to do so. Just don't want to burn out the motor and brushes or controller by fiddling.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@3D-vice - Sweet! Did you get an upgraded controller? If not, the install is super simple. And I found that most all of the settings in the unit were alreayd correct. I only had to change the PAS level to 1 and change the top speed. It was defaulted to something like 72KPH/44.4MPH lol.

Make sure to mount it with the correct end up. I mounted mine upside down oops. Easy to fix but I felt stupid when I turned it on and it was upside down.

I think it makes riding so much more fun, as a nerd who likes stats and data. :D Plus at night, you can have it light up which is awesome :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@3D-vice - Let me look at the info... Parameter P3 = Power Assist Mode. So you want P3 = 1. There's also a C3 parameter that is also relevant to the Sondors, which should be C3 = 8 I believe.

When you power the unit on, your PAS level itself will be at 0 the first time, or if you reset the trip meter. So don't panic when you hit the throttle or pedal and nothing happens. Just tap the UP arrow to take it to PAS level 1 and then you are able to throttle and/or pedal with assist. I do this everytime I reset my trip meter after a ride and forget the next time and it's at 0 again and I panic. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • To cycle through the three displays 1/2/3, press Power.
  • Display 1 is Battery indicator, Time, PAS level, Speed, Trip Distance, Watts being sent to the motor, outside temperature, headlight/brake status.
  • Display 2 is Odometer, Total Trip Time, average speed and motor temperature.
  • Display 3 is Voltage of battery, and max speed reached.
  • UP arrow increases PAS level gear 0/1-5, DOWN arrow reduces it. When held, UP turns on the backlight (and headlamp if installed), when held DOWN puts it into Cruise mode.
  • To reset Trip and Time (but not ODO) from the main Display 1, press and hold UP and DOWN then when it's blinking press Power and hold until it clears.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/25/2016 at 2:26 PM, alienmeatsack said:
  • To reset Trip and Time (but not ODO) from the main Display 1, press and hold UP and DOWN then when it's blinking press Power and hold until it clears.

To clarify, power up the display and wait about 5 seconds, then press and hold UP and DOWN for about 2 seconds, then press POWER and hold it briefly to clear the trip and time for the ride or previous ride. This one is kind of tricky since the same button presses with a little bit different timing puts you into parameter edit mode. If you don't get it right, exiting editing, shut down the display, wait a minute then power it back up and follow the above.

I'd really like to see a single dedicated button for this feature since it's something I personally use every single ride and I have yet to get it right on the first try.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a nice video to show the walkthrough of the display configuration. Not on a Sondors, but useful for us too.

Here's a link to the PDF manual on a few sites:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzOr1Lix29NwOWhRZGdCV0o3amM/edit

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tc5ury1tj4gka8i/kt-lcd3.pdf?dl=0 (My Dropbox)

And on Microbike:

http://www.microbike.it/Manuali/LCD3_standard.pdf

My link will work until Dropbox goes out of business - the rest I can only say they work currently.

Edited by alienmeatsack
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
On 2/25/2016 at 5:49 PM, 3D-vice said:

Yay! Got my K3 LCD today. Now let's put some computer power to the bike. :)

SondorsOwnersForum_LCD.jpg

hi 3D-vice, so is the attached cable from the LCD really not long enough to reach the controller? Did you have to buy an extension as well? Does the Lunacycle carry extensions for the LCD, because I couldn't find it here. 

actually i'm a total newbie with ebike. I just ordered my first ever ebike, sondors fatbike, and am waiting for the July delivery now. So right now, I haven't decided whether I'm gonna go for the sondors LCD or an aftermarket one. I would appreciate your reply and any helpful advices. Thanks, 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi @tracer

 

welcome to the Sondors Owner Forum - my name is Andi and I am operating this Forum.
The cable of Lunas LCD is long enough to connect it with the controller. 
But - you wrote that you just ordered your bike what means, Lunas LCD is not compatible unless you change your controller out to an aftermarket one. 

So if you want an aftermarket LCD you need to buy also a new Controller.
LCD(same as Luna): http://www.velomobileshop.com/collections/ebike-accessories/products/kt3-lcd-screen-free-shipping?variant=10503183299

Controller: http://www.velomobileshop.com/collections/ebike-accessories/products/36v-48v-20a-motor-controller-free-shipping?variant=18009240387 (gives you also more power(wattage))

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi Andi, thanks a lot for the reply. i've checked here and there a little. i could find three different vendors for the lcd - luna, velomobie, and aliexpress. which one would you recommend? and why? 

you said the aftermarket controller give more power (700?). it looks like that's the main reason people upgrade the controllers. then i wonder with the power taken by the aftermarket controller, does it drain the power from the battery quicker so the rage becomes shorter with the same battery???

i appreciate your help!!! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Andi said:

The cable of Lunas LCD is long enough to connect it with the controller.

@tracer ^ what he said. ;) I bought the extension cable just in case, but didn't need it.

I am really happy with the customer support from AliExpress. When I bought my LCD back then, they double-checked with me to make sure I bought the right LCD. I dunno if the also offer LCD for the other Sondors bikes.

The Sondors LCD is quite expensive, but there you can be sure to get the right LCD for your bike.

Sonce I do not have an upgraded controller, I cannot give you details about the power output and drain. Sorry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
1 hour ago, cranescrest said:

Can anyone please explain what the CRUISE function is? Thanks!

Hey @cranescrest, welcome to the forum.

Simple: The Cruise function of your bike is similar to the Cruise Control of a car. When you ride your bike at a certain speed (needs to be greater than 7 km/h), you can activate the Cruise Control (by pushing and holding the DOWN button) and the bike will automatically hold that speed without the need to peddle or push the throttle. The Cruise mode deactivates automatically if you use the brakes or press any another button.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

HI all.

I just tried the cruise function on my luna lcd and it didn't work?   Wounder if the peramiters are set wrong?

But thanks to this thread I lit up screen and now know how to lite up headlight when I get one.  I ordered a

headlight cable from velomobileshop and light on ebay

 


 

Ok    I  serched more here and just found info     parameter C7     will play with that  

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/10/2016 at 6:36 PM, elkoflyer said:

HI all.

I just tried the cruise function on my luna lcd and it didn't work?   Wounder if the peramiters are set wrong?

But thanks to this thread I lit up screen and now know how to lite up headlight when I get one.  I ordered a

headlight cable from velomobileshop and light on ebay

 

 


 

Ok    I  serched more here and just found info     parameter C7     will play with that  

Thanks

Let us know how it works. Wanting to know the same thing as I would love to have cruise control function. I think it would actually save me battery juice!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok Bandit 

You got me to get to it and try it.   Yes it works, tried it out on test ride.  Didn't seem to work at lower than

12mph but will play with that more.  Instructions say 7kph which =4 or 5 mph.   I rarely use the thumb throttle, instead

when I kneed more power I just increase the peddle assist to 3 or 4 or whatever is needed and back it down  right away as I level out from hill. 

Also changed C8 for motor temp but didn't work.

Read full manual and says need temp sensor in motor for that to work. So don't need

to change that.  My pre programed LCD from Luna Cycle has C1 set to 1 not 2 as mentioned above and I think

it should be 1 for an 8 magnet sensor.   Good luck and enjoy the ride...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By JeffCairns
      I purchased and received an original Sondors fat ebike from the 2015 Indiegogo campaign.  Is there an identifying serial number anywhere on the bike frame?
      I can see very faintly a punched on number just below the handle bars that seems to read 2015 - ? . Would the question mark number be my backer number?
      Thanks for any help.
      Jeff Cairns
    • By Andi
      Hey folks that are patiently, or impatiently, awaiting a shipping notice or bike, please read this. Based on our experience with this since 2015, here is what you can expect:
      UPDATE:
      With COVID-19, unfortunately, the experience of recent years can no longer be applied. Containers have become a scarce commodity. The disaster with the EVER GIVEN has not made it better. With the significant impact on the global world market, things are piling up in front of the ports. Simple processes like getting to port, unloading containers and reloading have become much much more time consuming than it usually is. We are sorry about this because we know how painful it is to have to wait longer for your new great bike. We are also just owners. Because (as you know) we are a forum for owners from owners. We also want your bike (especially the new models) to arrive as soon as possible, but we have no influence on that. Please contact the manufacturer support for the latest information regarding your delivery.  But what we know for sure: the bikes are coming. even with all the covid impact. Thousands of bikes. I can feel the excitement, or maybe it's just me lol. But anyway I can feel the pressure building. We don't mind you posting your delivery notice, but please don't post your tracking number. Just black that part out, and you're good to go. You don't want anyone the be able to reroute your delivery to my house do you? Moderators will delete all posts we see with tracking numbers. If you have ordered or already got your Sondors eBike - please login or register and pin yourself to the member map: https://sondorsforum.com/membermap/
      Check out the latest news regarding record backlogs at the ports: https://www.cbsnews.com/video/supply-chain-issues-worsen-as-ports-face-record-backlog/#x
       
      Feel free to post your unpacked or still packed bike in this Gallery Section - We are looking forward to your pictures!
      https://sondorsforum.com/gallery/category/3-unboxed-show-us-your-sondors-ebike/
       
      The Sondors Owner Forum is a great place to share information about your Sondors eBike. We have many available resources here, that may have great value for you. Take your time and read everything carefully. I would love to see you as an new member on the Owners Forum! Questions? Feel free to ask!
       
       
    • By MattRobertson
      The purpose of this thread is to display the various parts of the Sondors Original electric bicycle.  These diagrams are meant to annotate all parts on the Sondors Original ebike with an eye towards defining terms for the complete beginner.  Have a suggestion for improvement?   Post a question in the forum so all can see and contribute.  This thread is a reference work that is closed to replies to keep it tidy.
      Try clicking on an image and bring it up in a new window.  These started out life as high resolution images and can be seen larger in their native format.
      The Frame
      Here we point out common terms for the Sondors frame.  These terms are common to all bicycles and ebikes, and you can use these terms in any discussion of cycling, anywhere.


      Bicycle Components
      Here we list the parts attached to the frame, above.  We can't point to every single part but we have hit all of the highlights

       
      Components - Rear
      Zooming in on the back to label a few things not easily visible in the full bike view.

       
      Components - Front
      Zooming in on the front axle area to see some details on the brakes.  More importantly, if someone wants to see your Sondors' nipples you don't necessarily need to call the police.

       
      Components - Middle
      Now you know the bottom bracket means two things depending on what you are pointing at.  And the 'spindle' is the axle of the cranks, and hold on the crank arm via the crank bolt (which takes an 8mm hex key wrench that you should check every so often to ensure it is still at about 35 ft lbs of torque).  Plus with this enlarged view we can see the 2-pieces that make up the PAS system a lot better.

    • By Andi
      This information applies to all SONDORS eBikes shipped after December 2017:
      Here is the setup manual for the new SONDORS LCD - According to Storm this is the new model for all bikes shipping from now on. 

       
      Users Manual-KD51C-KDS.pdf (you need to be logged in to access this file)
      Change the speed limiter, on any Sondors with the KD51C.
      You don’t need to write the sequence down, Just pause the video as you program. 
       
      Got the old LCD display?
      Check out this topic: 
       
    • By Andi
      https://shop.sondors.com/pages/assembly
       
      Download print edition here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8KayVCg4zE4dGQyTWJTYk4wSkE/view?usp=sharing
       
      Congratulations on your Sondors electric bike purchase and thanks very much for helping bring this exciting eBike to the market.
      PLEASE NOTE:
      If you are not familiar with assembling bicycles then it is STRONGLY recommended that you take your Sondors electric bike to a local bike shop. Most shops will be able to assemble and make any necessary adjustments for your new bike for a small fee. That said, if you are familiar with bike assembly, please refer to the below as a preliminary guideline for the Sondors electric bike.
      NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY: (but not included with your bike):
      Extra Hand: Ideally 2 people are needed to help lift the bike out of carton and an extra hand can be useful to help secure the position of the bike for some assemblies – especially if you don’t have a bike mechanics stand/ or work station. 15mm open end wrench – Used to tighten the wheel nuts and attach the pedals to the cranks. Phillips Screw Driver (for attaching the reflectors to the bike wheels and the F/R reflectors on the Handle Bar and Seat Posts Optional: Wire/cable cutter to trim the front Brake cable shorter at the disc brake caliper arm lever) INCLUDED TOOLS:
      Set of 5 Allen Wrenches (6mm, 5mm, 4mm, 3mm, 2.5mm.
      A T25 Torx wrench (used for the screws that attach the disc brake to the wheel hubs). CARTON OPENING AND UNPACKING:
      With the carton in the upright position (as shown indicated by the up arrows) open the top of the box carefully avoiding the staples as they can be sharp. With the box flaps pulled back remove the Seat/Seat post assembly and the cardboard accessory box containing the Allen wrench set and the accessory items. Open and unpack the smaller cardboard Accessory box – Removing the pedals, battery charger, bag of fasteners, reflectors and Allen wrenches. With the help of another person, team lift the bike out of the box and position it where the packaging materials on the bike frame and fork can be removed. Carefully clip the 2 white zip tie connectors to release the larger cardboard box from the front wheel. This larger cardboard box contains the bikes battery. At this point please refer to the charging directions in the below for the process to start the initial conditioning charge for the battery so that it can be charging while the remainder of the bike is being assembled. Accessory Box Contents:
      Here is the full step-by-step video with individual videos linked below each of their sections below:
      BATTERY CHARGING PROCESS:
      BATTERY: Inside the larger rectangular cardboard box is the bike’s Lithium Ion battery. It is shipped in a protective bubble sleeve. Remove the battery from the sleeve and confirm the power switch on the black base of the battery is in the “OFF” position. IMPORTANT: The battery’s power switch should always be in the “OFF” position when the battery is being charged. It should be left in the “OFF” position when it is not being used for powering the bike. Never keep the battery power switch in the “ON” position when it is not being used to power the bike. The Battery is designed to be used only with the Sondors E-Bike and charging system. BATTERY CHARGER - IMPORTANT: Read the operating instruction that were shipped with the charging unit. Charger unit is intended for indoor use only.
      Within the smaller cardboard Accessory box (removed with the seat when the carton was opened) is the Battery Charger Transformer and power cord and instructional sheet. Remove them from the box and review the Operating instructions included with it.
      IMPORTANT: Insure the Battery’s power switch (rocker switch) at the base of the battery is in the “OFF” position for every charging cycle and that it remains “OFF” during the charging stage. The battery is never to be connected to the charging transformer with the power switch in the “ON” position as damage can occur.
      Connect the outlet power cord to the black rectangular battery transformer, matching the power cord end (opposite the wall outlet end) to the same shaped socket on the rectangular transformer.
      Connect the cylindrical end of the other cable on the transformer to the charging port on the base of the battery (opposite the rocker switch on the battery). To do this you will need to lift the rubber flap on the side of the battery’s base charging port. Always keep this flap covering the charging port when it is not being charged.
      After reconfirming the battery is in the “OFF” position you can put the charging plug into a grounded house hold outlet (100 to 240 VAC). It is advised to use a surge protector to plug into as an extra precaution.
      When initially plugged in the LED on the transformer will momentarily be Green. If the battery is not fully charged it will switch to Red color while the battery is being charged. The battery is fully charged when the Red LED changes back to the Green LED. It is important to fully charge the battery prior to use.
      When the battery is fully charged and the LED shows a constant Green color you may remove the transformer cord from the charging port on the battery base.
      Do not store your fully charged battery connected to the plugged-in charger as this can damage your battery.
       
       
       
      HANDLE BAR ATTACHMENT:
      Clip the zip ties that hold the front wheel and the handle bar assembly to the fork and frame. Remove the protective cardboard tubing, plastic wrapping and foam sheeting from the bike and handle bar assembly.

      IMPORTANT – FORK POSITION:
      Prior to attaching the handle bars you need to position the fork and stem in the correct position. The fork has a slight angle away from the bike and the front brake is on the left side of the fork as seen by the bike operator when it is in the correct position.
      If it looks like the fork is angled back towards the rear of the bike and the front brake is on the bike operators right side, then the fork needs to be rotated 180 degrees so the fork is angle away from the rear of the bike and the front brake caliper unit is on the Left side when you are riding the bike.
      IMPORTANT – STEM POSITION:
      With the included Allen wrenches loosen the 3 Allen screws that hold the stem to the top of the fork.
      Position the stem with the face plate forward toward the front of the bike.
      Tighten the Stem on the top tube of the fork. There is a 5mm screw on the circular cap on the top of the stem. loosen this cap and the 2 Allen screws on the side of the handle bar stem shaft.
      IMPORTANT: HANDLEBAR POSITION:
      Using the 4mm wrench remove all 4 forward facing screws and the face plate from the stem.
      Center the handle bars (L/R) on the stem and rotate the bar into a position where the brake angle seems comfortable to you.
      Reattach the stem face plate using the 4mm allen screws.
      IMPORTANT: The thumb throttle will be on the bike riders Right side and the front disc brake will be on the bike riders left side of the fork when both Fork and Stem/Bars are in the correct position.
      Tighten the grips and the brake lever units using the Allen Keys. The allen bolts for brake lever units and the handle grips on the on the under side of handle bar. Tighten the Thumb Throttle Allen screw also.
      ALIGNMENT OF HANDLE BARS / STEM and FRONT WHEEL:
      Loosen the yellow circular Stem Cap with the 5mm Allen wrench.
      Loosen the 2 screws on the sides of the stem.
      Standing with your legs straddling the front wheel and looking towards the handle bars align the handle bars and stem with the front wheel.
      Once wheel/stem/bar alignment is achieved, tighten the top stem cap (5mm) and the 2 side 4mm Allen Screws found on the stem post to secure it on the upper tube of the fork.
      FRONT WHEEL ATTACHMENT:
      IMPORTANT: A 15mm open ended wrench is needed to tighten the wheel nuts.
      Rotate the front axle nuts until they are approx half way off the threaded axle. This will allow for any easier attachment to the front fork.
      Carefully place the front wheel in the front fork drop out slots so the wheels’ brake disc aligns with disc brake unit. The break unit is on the left side of the bike rider when it is in the correct position.
      Alternate tightening the Left side and Right side nuts onto the fork tabs so as to keep the wheel centered on the fork and the wheels disc aligned in the brake calipers.
      Finish tightening the wheel nuts using the 15mm wrench.
      FRONT BRAKE ATTACHMENT:
      Loosen the 5mm nut on the cable stop at the front brake activation arm. Push about an inch of slack upward the Bike riders Left lever.
      Pull back the lever allowing the ferrel basket to swing out.
      Using the created slack from loosing the cable clamp, take the end of the cable with the cylindrical ferrel and place the ferrel in the basket on the brake lever and swing the basket into the brake lever housing while pulling the cable through the slot in the front of the lever housing.
      Then tuck the cable along the front slot in the Brake Levers and place the end of the cable jacket into the silver tube at the edge of the brake cable.
      Rotate the silver collar on the slotted tube to lock the cable into place.
      On the front brake caliper, pull the created slack out of cable and tighten it down with the 5mm Allen wrench to secure the brake cable on the brake actuator arm.
      Please refer to the manufactures web site for details on the proper adjustment of the TekTro disc Brake systems.
       
      CABLE MANAGEMENT - IMPORTANT: The throttle controller is designed to cut the power to the motor if the brake is applied. It is critical to keep the cables in their proper place and away from the brake levers to insure the proper function of the bike.
      Use the small black plastic clips on the cables to secure the cables in place to insure the cables are not causing the throttle controller to stop the power flow to the motor.
      Refer to the video update for clip positions.
      Cable Management for Front Handlebars

      PEDAL ATTACHMENT:
      IMPORTANT: You will need a 15mm wrench (not included) to tighten the pedals onto the crank arms.
      IMPORTANT: The pedals are marked on the threaded end with “L” and “R”.
      The pedal marked with an “R” on the threaded end is to be attached to the bike riders Right pedal crank arm. “L” is marked on the end of the riders left pedal. Please note it is easier to thread the pedal onto the crank when it is in the higher position.
      The Right pedal will be rotated clockwise to tighten onto the crank arms and the Left pedal gets rotated counterclockwise onto the crank to attach and tighten.
      Tighten both pedals with the 15mm open ended wrench.
       
       
      SEAT (Assembly) ATTACHMENT: (Watch video for red reflector attachment directions)
      Remove the cardboard and packing materials the seat.
      Open the yellow anodized lever slide the seat post into the seat tube.
      Position seat for the riders comfort and rotate the seat so it is centered over the frame.
      Tighten the seat clamp back down by moving the lever back to the closed position. The knurled nob on the side opposite the lever may need to be rotated clockwise a small amount to insure the clamp is tight on the seat post.
       
      BATTERY INSTALLATION:
      On the Left side of the bike, open the battery door by locating the latching toggle bolt on the upper right hand corner of the house. Rotate the toggle counter clockwise to loosen it and open the battery box door.
      IMPORTANT: Battery Holder Keys.- the keys zipped tied to the silver throttle controller in the battery box are needed to attach and release the battery from the battery holder on the bike. Do not loose these. Carefully clip the plastic zip tie and place a key in the left side upper slot of the battery holder.
      With the Battery’s power switch in the “OFF” position, align base of the charged battery into the battery holder and pivot it down and into the holder into the holder until it rests with the top of the battery just off the holder. This is a snug fit but it is easier with each additional effort.
      Rotate the key at the top of the holder while pressing down on the battery to lock the battery into position on the bike.
       
      Battery Charged on the Bike – closed battery box door:
      The battery can be charged on the bike. Remove the circular caps on both sides of the battery box Bike throttle at handle bars should be powered off. Confirm the battery’s power switch on the battery base is in the “OFF” position (rocked towards the rear of the bike). Flip small rubber flap off the charging port. Connect outlet power cord to the battery charging transformer. Connect the battery charging cylindrical end cable end to the charging port on the battery base. Connect the power cord to grounded household outlet. Ideally the transformer will be plugged into a surge protected outlet or surge protected power strip. LED on transformer will momentarily show green then switch to Red until the battery is fully charged.
      When light shows steady green on the battery transformer the battery is fully charged and ready for your next ride. Remove charger cable from battery base and store charger unit according to the instructions shipped with the battery.  
      Battery Charged on the Bike – Battery box door left open.
      Same process as charging through the left side circular cap opening but with the battery door open instead of just the small cap. Throttle on handle bars must be powered “OFF” Battery must be placed in “OFF” position. Confirm by feeling through the riders right side circular opening that the switch is rocked back towards the rear tire.  
      Powering Up of E-Bike:
      The bike is powered up by removing the circular rubber cap near the bottom of the riders Right hand side. Turn on the battery by rocking the battery power switch to the forward “ON” position. Replace the cap onto the battery box. Turn on the throttle controller on the right side of the handle bars by pressing the grey switch to the throttle once. With a fully charged battery attached installed all 3 of the LED’s will illuminate on the throttle control when it is powered on.  
      Powering Down of E-Bike:
      The bike is powered down by reversing the ‘power up’ steps. Thumb Throttle on right side of handle bars is shut off by pressing the grey button once. The LED lights on the throttle unit will shut off.
      Battery is powered down by moving the rocker switch on the battery base to “OFF” position. Do not store you E-Bike in the “ON” position.  
      Attachment of Reflector accessories to the Bike:
      Please refer to the video for reflector assembly details. 
       
  • Popular Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.