By martin vahey
Hi I've just bought a pre owned fat bike, not sure of the exact model but it has the "Wendy" led controller.
I inverted the bike to swap brake pads (being careful not to damage the controller) but it began to rain very heavily so I left it in situ and when I came back to the bike after a day or so I couldn't start it, yes the battery was charged👍
The screen was completely blank, no led's on the throttle.
then after 24hours the lcd screen showed the 'boxes' where the information should be but just the boxes no actual information, this screen is visible even with the battery removed, so I'm thinking rain penetrated the lcd controller whilst the bike was inverted.
Ive now opened the controller and left it indoors in the hope that it will dry, and will put it in a bag of rice to absorb any moisture from the circuit board, is there anything else I should try?
Aftermarket LCD Display user manual (also applying for Sondors eBike LCD)
KT3-LCD_short_en.pdf (english language 2-page manual)
KT3-LCD_full_en.pdf (english version full manual, 2013)
KT3-LCD_full_de.pdf (german version full manual)
Programming the KT-LCD3 and KT-LCD8H Everything you need to know
EDIT: This manual is the current version for the KT-LCD3. It includes different behavior in some of the settings and lists C13 (regenerative braking... not applicable to Sondors) and C14 - PAS assist strength tuning (applicable to Sondors)
KT-LCD3_2015.pdf (English, v3.0, 2015)
By Chad Lauterbach
After upgrading the front crankset, rear freewheel, (53/17 final gear ratio), chain, LT48 battery, 20-amp controller and display the bike was a beast. Easily commuting to work at 26-27mph and hitting 28-29+ with a bit more effort. The issue was at those speeds in LA traffic I needed the ability to stop fast too. And re-adjusting my brakes every ~2-3 weeks was also getting annoying. The solution was new tires, hydraulic brakes, and Rotors. Here's what I got:
Rotors: Shimano Deore RT66 180mm 6-Bolt Disc Rotor
Brakes: PASION E BIKE MTB Hydraulic Disc Cut Off Power Brake E-Bike (This is basically just a Shimano Hydraulic brake set that's been modified to have the motor cut-off. Make sure to select the right option, in my case it was the second one from the left as my controller has the 2-pin (red) motor cut-off).
Rotor Spacer: Shimano F180P/P2 Disc brake adapter
Hose Wire Clip Clamps: Jiyaru Bicycle Cable Guide Brake Line Holder Hose Wire Clips Clamps (To route the hydraulic hose by attaching these to the existing closed cable lines).
Tires: Schwalbe Marathon Plus HS 348 Road Bike Tire
This thing stops like a beast now and with the extra traction from these tires this is a nice safety upgrade. Should reduce the changes of flats too as these tires have built-in tire-liners essentially. So far really happy with the upgrade. :)
I hope this helps somebody out!
By E Talvo
I thought I would share some of my findings regarding Luna's KT-LCD3 and P5 - Power Monitoring Mode.
I have the basic Thin with an upgraded screen and controller from Luna Cycle. Once hooked up, I notice that the battery level on the screen did not match the battery level that's on the battery. Once down to 0 level on the screen, I can see there's still some power left on the battery. So here's what I found. If you get to the P5 function on the screen, you'll find that you can change the setting from 0 to 12. For the Thin, I've seen 5 as a default. So off for a ride I go, having a great time, and later found myself down to nothing on the screen. I've figured that I've drained the battery down for the low voltage protector to kick in. Bike was a tank to pedal and had about 2.5 miles to get home... along with a few hills. I then remember someone saying that if you set the setting to 0, then you can get a real time of the batteries voltage. Sure enough, the meter showed 1 bar and was able to get the controller above the low voltage protector for the bike to move. I also noticed that if I set the PAS to 2, the low voltage would kick in as well as using any throttle. So as long as I left the PAS to 1, and provided and extra effort in peddling, I was able to get home. I also want to note that if you set P5 at 5, the battery level drops at a faster rate from 2 to 1 as compared to 4 to 3. YMMV
You may have seen some ads here for the product "Booster Battery" for the SONDORS eBikes.
We highly warn against these batteries they are really dangerous. Connecting two different batteries together may/will cause the weaker battery to drain first to the point where voltage becomes zero, at this point the battery will be damaged forever with no way to repair it. That may be fine for some of you but, here comes the dangerous part. The larger battery will continue to draw from the weaker battery which have already been exhausted and it will get extremly hot - a extremly hot and exhausted battery will explode and burst into flames. You are getting yourself and other lives in danger when you're connecting two batteries that are not the same voltage and amp hour. You might have been doing this with no negative effect yet but obviously you have not done long term testing. If it was this simple, someone would have done this along time ago.
Lithium batteries in general are extremly explosive and highly flammable especially when you are not utilizing it properly. Here's a video of what happens when lithium batteries get hot:
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