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Richard Park

Custom sondors original shut off

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So I finally bit the bullet and decided to upgrade my sondors original 350w single speed to 750w 7 speed. I actually completed this by following a similar setup as another thread in this forum. I have a 35A controller, 750 w motor, ktlcdh8 and a 52v battery.

I took the upgraded bike out for its first ride today and boy it did not disappoint. I’d say 15 minutes into the ride. I decided to up it to 5 PAS, once I did that and then hit the throttle, the bike just shut off and would not turn back on. I took it home and checked all the connections, the battery was still at 56.3 V according to the multimeter. I reattached the xt90s connection from the battery to the controller and it created a huge spark and smoke. So the bike won’t turn on, the battery still has tons of juice. Any thoughts? 

Edited by Richard Park
Wrong info

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Not a Clue other than it sounds like you’ve had a dead short somewhere in some component. I’m assuming the spark and smoke was at the XT90s spark resistant connector.  Will reconnecting the battery again  result in another spark and smoke? Or is the whole system dead?

There isn’t enough information to formulate a guess but I’d start by opening up the controller and looking for damage. 

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              REDDY

Still with daytime temps @100°f

 

 

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Yes, the spark was at the xt90 connector. If I reconnect it, it results in another spark and smoke. *clarification, this was when I reconnected it last night

Edited by Richard Park
Clarification

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Then I would unplug every Higo connector from the controller and reconnect the battery momentarily to determine if the problem is at the, Battery to Controller wiring, a fault in the XT90s connector, in the Controller or beyond. If it’s beyond you shouldn’t see the spark or smoke. I’m betting on the former3 possibilities. 

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       REDDY

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When I reconnect the xt90s this morning, it no longer creates a large spark, just a popping noise. I took all the Higo connections out and it still creates the same popping noise as when everything is attached.

I opened the controller and there are no scorch marks or loose connections.

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You’ve obviously still got a current drain (although because the ferocity at which it first surfaced has subsided its still there) and there shouldn’t be one and it’s contained to theXT90s (that charred prong and interior in the XT90s  is an indication of how high a current drain it is/was), the wiring between the XT90s and the Controller,  or the Controller it self.  If a visual inspection can’t find it, It has to be in  one of those three since you’ve eliminated all the rest of the components on the bike. . Are you sure your wires to the controller aren’t pinched in some mounting and making contact with each other or some ground?  Is your controller grounded to the frame in some way, although there would have to be some other component in contact with the frame, also, to complete a circuit. Judging from the damage to the XT90s there has to be that same kind of evidence, where ever the short is, if it’s just not in that connector.  Have you pulled the back off that XT90s? Is the charred prong in the XT90s connected to the Black Power Lead?  The Black Power Lead’s solder joint inside the controller looks a little black/dark in your picture. 

I can’t find the short from here. If you can’t find it, you’ll have to take it to a local shop that’s capable of working on eBikes or consider that it’s the controller and replace it. Try contacting the seller. 

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           REDDY

 

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I pulled back the connector and the charred one is connected to the red lead/wire. I replaced the xt90s with an xt60(it’s what I have on hand). I removed the battery and the controller from the bike, no kinks or openings in the wiring. I also reconnected the new xt60 outside of the bike and it still did the small spark. Any further thoughts on diagnosis? If not, I guess I’ll take it to the shop.

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I’ve got noting new to add but based on your efforts I’d put my money on it being a fault inside the Controller. Depending on where you bought your 35amp controller, they can be pretty expensive. I believe I paid $135 for mine, a few years ago but I have seen them a little cheaper,  Bolton offers theirs for $110, free shipping. I’ve diagnosed and heard of many, mostly newish controllers going bad on this forum. Seems if they’re going to have a problem it’s usually earlier then later. They are the single most failure prone component in our bikes. I have 5 controllers, of various ratings and all functioned flawlessly but I guess it’s just the Luck of the Draw. 

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         REDDY

 

 

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