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Bradb

Battery Replacement Woes

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Help!?!

My Sondors Thin Stock battery (36V/8.7Ah) died after a year. Admittedly, I rode it hard and I didn’t take basic steps for battery preservation. 

So, I bought a new official Sondors Thin battery replacement (36V/10Ah) straight from Sondors. I charged the new battery through my original charger overnight. The green light was on this morning. 

I plugged the new battery into the bike and nothing. 

What am I missing? I didn’t think I’d need a new controller because the voltage is the same. Am I wrong? 

Help!?!

Thanks in advance!!

Brad

 

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Brad Hi, If you  used the correct charging procedure as described in this video :  https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c75g-NKRbkI&t=159s   then you should check the battery capacity using the battery LED lights. You should also check the battery Voltage, with your multimeter.  Both of your 36V batteries should read 42V when fully charged. Next check the output voltage of your charger, it also should show 42V.  If you determine it’s the charger that is not operating correctly, they’re avalable from Sondors.  They are also avalable online from various outlets, much cheaper, but in most cases require replacing the plug with your old battery’s charger plug.  Lastly if you determine a fault with the new battery   Go to  Sondors.com and chat, call, with the phone number displayed there or email for their Support instructions

 

 LEMMENO what you find.   

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          REDDY 

 

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Okay. So, the LEDs light up all the way on the new battery. So, I suppose I charged it correctly and it is properly holding the charge. I originally thought the problem was the Sondor's original throttle. So, now I have a new official Sondor's battery (which seems to be working properly) and a new official Sondor's throttle. But still nothing. The only remaining original piece is the controller.  I have no idea how I would burn up a controller, but at this point, I am another $375 into a bike I originally paid $500. Ugh. Thoughts?Okay. So, the LEDs light up all the way on the new battery. So, I suppose I charged it correctly and it is properly holding the charge. I originally thought the problem was the Sondor's original throttle. So, now I have a new official Sondor's battery (which seems to be working properly) and a new official Sondor's throttle. But still nothing. The only remaining original piece is the controller.  I have no idea how I would burn up a controller, but at this point, I am another $375 into a bike I originally paid $500. Ugh. Thoughts?

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Replace your controller.

Replace your controller.

This Titanium Litespeed Ultimate,  w/ 25th Aniversary Shimano Dura Ace Groupo and the Original Release, PowerTap Cycling Power Meter was $7,000, and I had to build it. 

Yes bikes can get expensive. 

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image.jpeg.460181aebee7ca43d0f0c2b7c7188c24.jpeg

     REDDY

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I have a Sondors XS (48V triangle battery) and the battery dies quickly after about 10 miles of riding and after being fully charged. The bars on the display quickly disappear. My Sondors X with the same battery is good for 30+ miles and smoothly discharges as you use it. Seems like the battery is dying, but are there any other faults that can lead to this symptom?

I guess I can simply swap batteries between my 2 bikes to prove it.

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Switching the batteries would be my first step to try and trouble shoot the fault.  My next guess, without any true electrical info about the battery’s actual capacity, is that there is mechanical drag somewhere in/on the bike. Brake, Tire (even severely under-inflation), Motor itself (Stator dragging on a permanent magnet), front wheel bearings too tight and binding (very common problem on a few of the Chinese bikes I own and reported by others here on the forum. 
I’d check the voltage in the faulty battery at full charge.  Every eBike owner should own a Multimeter.  A 48V battery should read about 53V at Full Charge. 
 image.jpeg.2eb8733eb335a273457ca67b54f991a8.jpeg

Your  XS 25 Amp, controller will supply more current delivery than the X 20 Amp controller and this means less range, if all user demands are equal.  This will be most evident it you use a lot of throttle.
Any unintended current drain could be the problem. I’d check the temperature, on the bike with the faulty discharging battery, to see if the controller or hub motor is hot. A rapidly discharging battery, unless it’s not truly @ Full Charge, will produce a lot of heat as it rapidly discharges from a short circuit somewhere in the system.  
image.jpeg.460181aebee7ca43d0f0c2b7c7188c24.jpeg
    REDDY

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Hi REDDY,

Thanks for the tips and the Battery Voltage table. FYI, my Sondors X has an upgraded 25 Amp controller, so the two are fairly similar. I fully charged both batteries, X battery read 53.6V and XS battery read 53.2V, so seems that test is good. I swapped the two batteries and rode both bikes with my wife. We did 14 miles with no problems. The XS battery was down one to 50.1V, so again seems about right. X battery was a little better, but my extra 50 lb body weight probably accounted for that.

The next day I put the XS battery back in the XS bike and rode it hard (lots of hills with little pedal assistance).  When I got to 20.4 miles total it cut out and I got the following error: Error Code 24, Fault with motor hall sensor inside. After a while with starting throwing Error Code 22, Fault with throttle.  A while later it came back OK and I was able to ride home.

This failure is not exactly the same as the previous failure in that everything seems to go dead (no error codes, no power to display. Regardless, I have a problem to fix. To me it seems that the battery is OK (good since I am not excited about spending $400 on a new battery) but I have an intermittent fault.

Is the main problem the motor hall sensor? Is the fault with throttle (Error code 22)  just a  resultant fault?

How do I fix the hall sensor? Where do I but the parts?  I recall posts from some time back talking about this but cannot find them. Any help you can provide is much appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

SamCR

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I can’t speak to the reliability or anomalies that might be reported by the newer color LCD display. I don’t use that display but rely on the KT-LCD 3, but hall sensor failures are, Almost  Always, due to the Lg Higo motor connector, under the right chainstay not fully connected.  The exceptions could be to moisture/water incursion into the motor or connector or below⬇️. The Hall Sensor system is not a replaceable part but integral within the motor and its windings. 
But since that error and the throttle error both disappeared, I’ll assume that with powering off then powering back on of your bike, that the controller (or maybe even the display) rebooted and corrected theses displayed errors.  The electrical cut out is due, most likely, to either the battery’s low voltage BMS (battery management system) cut off function, set to stop the battery’s voltage from going so low that it can’t be charged or recovered, or the same setting in the controllers design to do the same, due to low battery voltage. Although the voltage dropped so low to cut off the current, the battery, recovered its voltage somewhat  (due to individual cell balancing) after a time and you were able to restore power. 

See:    https://www.electricbike.com/introduction-lithium-18650-batteries/    

https://www.electricbike.com/motor-tech-learn-the-terms-part-1/i

There is a lot of useful info @ electricbike.com and you should review the ones you’ll find informative under the technology header.

Sondors eBikes are not good hill climbers, that is the prominence of mid drive motor eBikes. Nor are Sondors eMotorcycles as designate as eBikes with PAS . They perform best when peddled, as a major part of the motive force. The better more powerful class of eBikes designed for Hills that are Higher Powered Bikes, that also serve as eMotorcycles look here.   https://lunacycle.com/sur-ron-x-bike-black-edition/

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                                                                REDDY

 

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