By Josh Wardell
Brake light system
I completed my prototype brake light system a few weeks ago and just made a quick video demonstrating it. I'm curious if others would be interested in a polished version of this:
I'm using real Higo connectors so it is plug and play into the brake wires without modification.
My prototype uses a separate 12v converter (I will also be powering a horn) but I will design it to be powered directly from any battery 30-60v.
The tail light has a solid low light with occasional blink when powered, and goes to full brightness when either brake handle is pulled.
I made my own light and bracket from bright waterproof LED strips, but I would probably bundle this with a real reflector light made for automotive use.
Would anyone have an interest in this if I were to design a board and make a dozen or two of these? Any opinions or changes?
Also, I tapped into the battery wires, I'm not sure I can make the battery plug and play because I believe the connector is different depending on fat or thin or 3rd party batteries, can someone confirm that? Or I could make a plug & play Y adapter for fat.
Front wheel hub is broken
I have original sondors with suspension. But when I was biking, suddenly my front wheel got broke and I could not bike anymore. Removing the front wheel and inspecting, I could see that the cone in the front wheel hub is broken. It seems it is a very rare case and do you guys know if I can fix this? Replacing the front Tyre is extremely pricey.
By jb henderson
My New Sondors Thin Front wheel Untrue?
Im new here and pretty stoked for the most part, so far. I received my black Sondors thin a few weeks ago and put it together myself. Im a builder and shade tree mechanic, but not too savy with disc brakes. This was my first time to have them. Upon getting it all together, and yes, I watched the video and followed instructions... I heard the front grind on engagement. So I tooled around with it and made some adjustments. Still grinding. I finally got it all laid out, and set the wheel spinning and noticed a significant wobble. took the brake completely apart and and rebuilt it, just in case, but it seems to be the wheel to me. Clearly the caliper is hitting hard in one spot. If its untrued, that means it came that way out of the box.
Any suggestions or similar stories? Im also noticing some noise from the hubs. Im ready to get serious with this bike, and start being prepared for troubleshooting and shortcomings reflected in the pp, as I want to use this as a commuter. Im in Down town LA. Interested if anyone has recs for Sondors Friendly Bike Shops as well.
Thanks for any insight,
Alright, this rack is pretty straight forward once you understand it's parts, and goes on very easily and quickly. It comes with an assortment of extra hardware, so I figure I'd just point out what you do need and how to get it installed quickly. I do suggest you use some Locktite and maybe add your own lock washers to avoid bolts coming undone while riding due to vibration.
What you will need:
1 - 4mm Allen wrench
1 - 5mm Allen wrench
4 - Sondors Frame bolts (they supplied some but the Sondors ones are much prettier)
1 - Ibera PakRak
2 - Ibera Height Adjustment Rod + 2 short screws and washers (supplied)
Zip ties for cables that may rub along frame of rack or bike once installed
If you keep your seat low, you will need to raise it or remove it for now. And if you have a hanging seat back, it will have to come off to make room to work.
Ok. First off, loosen all of the bolts on the front assembly with the long curvy mounting arms, including the bolts that mount the arms to the connectors and to the rack itself. You want these to be free and loose for connecting to the bike.
Next, connect the Height adjustment rods to the bottoms of the rack's carrier leg on each side at the first screw hole "C".
Remove all of the bike's 4 frame Allen screws located both near the seat post and near the rear hub. Add a lock washer to these at this point if you wish, and put a dab of Loctite on each one's threads.
Take the rack and extend the front mounting arms out to the point where the rubber stoppers on the underside are all that is left on the back of the mounts on the rack itself. I recommend removing these as they are going to be in the way, but they serve as a good reminder as to how far out the rods have to go. Make sure all of the Allen bolts are loose on the rack and the arms at this point.
Hold the rack over the back wheel, extending the arms forward and level it more or less, then carefully install the 2 Allen bolts on each side at the rear bottom of the rack on the Height Adjustment rod, into the frame itself. Just screw them in enough to keep it on the bike, we'll tighten them down more once done.
Next, carefully extend each mounting arm out, turning it's bend so that the hold and flat part that will go to the bike is aligned with the bike (see the photos) and gently install each of the two frame Allen bolts near the seat into the holes. Again, just do them tight enough to keep things on the bike. It should be a pretty rigid fit as it is now.
Now you will want to move the frame as needed forward or backward and to the left and right to center and level it. Once you've done this, tighten the lower frame bolts down by the rear hub well.
Now tighten the bolts on the upper mount arms to the bike, being sure to get them nice and tight, Loctite and locking washing installed if you can. At this point all that should be left is to make sure its straight and then tighten up both forward frame bolts that hold the mountain arms as well as the bolts that hold the arms to the frame that can slide left/right.
Your frame is now installed. Give all the bolts a good once over for safety. Then put your seat back how you like it. If you have been using a hanging seat pack, it will most likely not fit unless you keep your seat pretty high. I had to remove mine and am not sure where to put it at this point since I keep my seat kind of low.
Note that if you have any kind of light or reflector for the rear, there's a nice place on the back of the rack underneath to mount it. I am going to put my rear light that is normally on my post there once I fashion a bracket.
Congrats, you now have a nice versatile rack to carry your goodies as you ride. And, if you take some plastic and cut it to fit and ziptie to the bottom of the rack, you've got a nice fender to boot.