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Diabolus,

Yeah, wish I could help, but for my part I have faced the facts: I can't do the Sondors THIN 3sp conversion myself (in fact yesterday, I spent 2 hrs on a rubbing disc brake on the bike, with no success!... you do the math...)

So. I now have all parts for the conversion in house from Amazon etc, and tomorrow I hand it all over to my local bike repair shop ( i found a good one now), and let them do their magic with the 3sp conversion.

Hopefully it will be worth it!

Good luck to those brave diy folks out there - you rock! 

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Millions of cyclist use master links. As long as you purchase the appropriate master link for your chain....no problem. As stated before on the forum, you can reuse the "standard" chain pins for our chains by not completely removing the pin. You leave it in the side plate and push it back in with the chain tool. Once you completely remove a pin, it's near impossible to replace it. That being said, some high end, narrow 9 thru 12 speed chsin require new single use pins when joining chain links, but those are not for our chains. 

I buy master links in bulk for my various chain sizes from aliexpress.  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Pair-2pcs-Bike-Chains-mountain-road-bike-bicycle-chain-Connector-for-6-7-8-9/2041541152.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.BnQQEL

and here is the chain break tool.   https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-1pc-Bicycle-Bike-Cycling-Steel-Chain-Breaker-Splitter-Cutter-Solid-Repair-Tool/32576754119.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.BnQQEL

There are instances of master links failing on eBikes but those are on min-drive, high powerd bikes, where all the power to the rear wheel is driven by the chain....that ain't us. 

Id suggest you review some YouTube videos. 

Read here for enlightenment but Sheldon's views on lubrication are not necessarily the modern view.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Edited by Tabletteer

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For whatever reason the master link that came with my new KMC chain wouldn't go thru my new derailleur. It was handy for sizing the chain to length. It is no problem pushing the pins (mostly!!!!) out using the chain tool. Takes only 15 to 30 seconds.

I had an old crank brothers multitool 19 in 1 I was using. Does the same thing as the unit posted above by @Tabletteer. I did notice that it didn't push the pin all the way out, even when screwed to max, so that was a nice safeguard.

m19_magenta_black.png

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Thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated. Stupid question, but if I went the master link route on my Sondors do I need a 3-speed compatible master link? Does such a thing exist? The URL above shows links for 6/7/8, 9, and 10-speed cassettes.

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No. The chain width and pin to pin length is different based on the sizing of the sprocket and chainring. The new chain (if the basic one off Amazon like i ordered) will come with it's own master link. The 6/7/8 speed is where you want to be.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO5NI0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The silver still looks bomb on my black/red

Edited by Grinchy
clarify

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Just an update:

Here is a picture of all the parts (bought online and now all in house) needed for the Sondors THIN 3sp conversion (hopefully!).

I got two chains - just to be sure it can be made long enough for the rear derailleur (assuming they can be connected somehow!)

I also got a box of extra cable and cable housing, as adviced by people on this forum, for the long loop to reach the derailleur.

This afternoon after work, I will dump all this along with the bike to the repair shop (realizing my own serious shortcomings as a bike doctor!) - and hopefully I will have a beautiful 3sp Sondors THIN back from then on monday ;-)

JKS

 

IMG_20161014_131848.jpg

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They should be able to work with that. Is that a 3/32" chainring? I'd expect a bike shop to already have cable/housing/crimpers etc. They'd have chain too. You probably could get by with the freewheel, chainring, shifter, and derailleur if involving professionals.

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On October 14, 2016 at 1:26 AM, Jks said:

Just an update:

Here is a picture of all the parts (bought online and now all in house) needed for the Sondors THIN 3sp conversion (hopefully!).

I got two chains - just to be sure it can be made long enough for the rear derailleur (assuming they can be connected somehow!)

I also got a box of extra cable and cable housing, as adviced by people on this forum, for the long loop to reach the derailleur.

This afternoon after work, I will dump all this along with the bike to the repair shop (realizing my own serious shortcomings as a bike doctor!) - and hopefully I will have a beautiful 3sp Sondors THIN back from then on monday ;-)

JKS

 

IMG_20161014_131848.jpg

jks - this is a great project and one I'm very interested in applying to my thin bike as well. would you mind linking your parts for the purchases? I'm very inspired by this project

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One thing I would suggest , if I see the derailleur correctly in the picture, is to use a short cage model. I believe, from what I read, that JKS bought the long cage model. BTW, the cage is the chain tensioning arm that moves the chain from gear to gear. With a 3 speed freewheel, I think a short cage is more practical since you don't need the extra takeup, on your chain, like on a freewheel with a large gear cassette. This keeps your chain smaller, the derailleur doesn't hang down nearly as much and it doesn't flex side to side as easily making for more precise shifts. If you look around on Amazon, you can find just about any model derailleur in short cage (SS) or long.

On my build I'm using a  Shimano 105 RD-5701-SS Short Cage, which is a pretty spendy top mid range shimano derailleur which also requires a separate hanger. If you are on a budget I suggest a  Shimano FT35 short cage derailleur (as sourced by Scott Kennedy, thanks Scott), It's only $13.75 with free shipping. Check out Scott's fine build directions on page 6 for all the info.

One more thing. I decided to replace my chain ring to keep the middle gear ratio as close to stock as possible. That requires a 48T chainring. I shopped around for several days and the best deal I came up with, that was close, was this item.

MTB-Folding-bicycles-crankset-crank-BCD130-square-hole-52T-SINGLE-SPEED

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MTB-Folding-bicycles-crankset-crank-BCD130-square-hole-52T-SINGLE-SPEED-/221914132726?hash=item33ab1cf0f6

It was $37 including shipping and was the best deal, by far, that I could find. It also has a chain guard and is very well built and almost half what an equivalent Shimano would cost. Also it has a standard bolt pattern so you could replace the chain ring with a different size if you were so inclined. With 52T this crankset gives you a slightly higher gear than a 48T on the 2nd gear but the difference isn't that much and the top gear really gives you some legs. Also the lower gear is great for those hills where you need a bit of extra power.

Good luck on your shopping and your build.;)

Sincerely,

MisterFixIt1952

Edited by MisterFixIt1952

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I was checking the link on my post to see if it was still good (it wasn't) so I updated the link, I also ran across a descent deal on a 48T crankset, something that was hard to find when I bought my set. Here is a link for anyone who might be interested. The 48T chainring keeps the middle gear as close to stock as you can get.

840501.jpg

This is a Suntour 48T 175mm crank arm with square taper. Should fit right on the sondors spindle with no problem. The ad doesn't mention it it's a 1/2 or 3/32 but it's a single speed so it's probably a 1/2 MTB chain. Also, it's on sale for $27 free shipping. A great deal for a 3 speed conversion.

Sincerely,

MisterFixIt1952

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I think the better of the latest multi speed conversions posted here on the Forum, whether your area has vertical challenges or more typically those wishing higher top speeds, both use 56 tooth chain rings. Whether it's Houshmand Moarefi, extraordinary, seven speed conversion, that is a true, powerful and high speed mountain climber (the pinnacle of exotc Sondors conversions posted here on the Forum) or JeffK's 3 speed, speedster, the common denominator is the 56 tooth chain ring. Not needing hill climbing gears, Jeff's procedure is what I'm reproducing almost exactly. 

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14 hours ago, Tabletteer said:

I think the better of the latest multi speed conversions posted here on the Forum, whether your area has vertical challenges or more typically those wishing higher top speeds, both use 56 tooth chain rings. Whether it's Houshmand Moarefi, extraordinary, seven speed conversion, that is a true, powerful and high speed mountain climber (the pinnacle of exotc Sondors conversions posted here on the Forum) or JeffK's 3 speed, speedster, the common denominator is the 56 tooth chain ring. Not needing hill climbing gears, Jeff's procedure is what I'm reproducing almost exactly. 

What change(s) are you making to it? All I have left to buy is my chain ring, crank set puller, longer cables and housings. Have to pace myself because I have way too much money going out in such a short space of time. I'm so used to buying expensive parts for my motorcycle project that I have little to no self control when it comes to buying bicycle parts.

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10 hours ago, DIABOLUS said:

What change(s) are you making to it? All I have left to buy is my chain ring, crank set puller, longer cables and housings. Have to pace myself because I have way too much money going out in such a short space of time. I'm so used to buying expensive parts for my motorcycle project that I have little to no self control when it comes to buying bicycle parts.

My funds seem to just fly also and "Fly", my boy border collie, just needed a Femoral Head Osteotomy ($$ more expensive than a Sondors). That, a hefty purchase of the 52v 14ah rack battery, a couple of advanced chargers and a stock-pile of XT-90s connectors & various other small items from Luna Cycles, plus the care and feeding of my airplane, have kept me from concentrating on the last purchase for my 3 speed conversion, the friction shifter. I had ordered the associate Tourney shifter combination, SL TX-30, reasoning I'd use the front left hand friction shifter and save the index 7 speed shifter for a future project but I canceled that order to do more R&D. The Derailleur I purchased, is the ShimanoTourney ERDFT35B, a variation of the RD FT35 w/hanger. All other parts I used Jeff's part list. I will add that I really like Houshmand Moarefi's Origin 8 crankset better than what I purchased, Oh, and I buy my cable sets @ Aliexpress  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/JAGWIRE-MTB-Road-Bike-Bicycle-Housing-Cable-Hose-Set-Kit-Brake-Shifter-For-Shimano-Sram-8Colors/1911775678.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.I5heBf

Edited by Tabletteer
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On 16/10/2016 at 2:36 AM, knotty said:

jks - this is a great project and one I'm very interested in applying to my thin bike as well. would you mind linking your parts for the purchases? I'm very inspired by this project

@knotty hey. So about the parts. The chainring and Lasco 56 teeth are the exact same as recommended by jeff (if i remember correctly) earlierin this thread. Both bought at amazon. The remainder of the stuff i bought at a local (in Denmark) bike parts website. 

I had  my new 3sp THIN back from the bike shop now. The made the mod in a day. Took them less than 2 hrs. Charged me 110 USD for it. It all works fine, and is so worth it. It is just a so much better ride now! Nice to be able to help the hub motor out a bit using leg power at higher speeds too!

One thing i would change though is the shifter i bought. Its a bit shit, and they had to play around a bit to get it to work by using the right shifter instead of left. Meaning i have to click 2 times on it to shift gear!... but whatever.

I'll post pictures soon, promise.

And good luck to all you THIN 3 modders. Its so worthwhile a thing to do to this bike!

Jks

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On 16/10/2016 at 3:54 AM, MisterFixIt1952 said:

One thing I would suggest , if I see the derailleur correctly in the picture, is to use a short cage model. I believe, from what I read, that JKS bought the long cage model. BTW, the cage is the chain tensioning arm that moves the chain from gear to gear. With a 3 speed freewheel, I think a short cage is more practical since you don't need the extra takeup, on your chain, like on a freewheel with a large gear cassette. This keeps your chain smaller, the derailleur doesn't hang down nearly as much and it doesn't flex side to side as easily making for more precise shifts. If you look around on Amazon, you can find just about any model derailleur in short cage (SS) or long.

On my build I'm using a  Shimano 105 RD-5701-SS Short Cage, which is a pretty spendy top mid range shimano derailleur which also requires a separate hanger. If you are on a budget I suggest a  Shimano FT35 short cage derailleur (as sourced by Scott Kennedy, thanks Scott), It's only $13.75 with free shipping. Check out Scott's fine build directions on page 6 for all the info.

One more thing. I decided to replace my chain ring to keep the middle gear ratio as close to stock as possible. That requires a 48T chainring. I shopped around for several days and the best deal I came up with, that was close, was this item.

MTB-Folding-bicycles-crankset-crank-BCD130-square-hole-52T-SINGLE-SPEED

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MTB-Folding-bicycles-crankset-crank-BCD130-square-hole-52T-SINGLE-SPEED-/221914132726?hash=item33ab1cf0f6

It was $37 including shipping and was the best deal, by far, that I could find. It also has a chain guard and is very well built and almost half what an equivalent Shimano would cost. Also it has a standard bolt pattern so you could replace the chain ring with a different size if you were so inclined. With 52T this crankset gives you a slightly higher gear than a 48T on the 2nd gear but the difference isn't that much and the top gear really gives you some legs. Also the lower gear is great for those hills where you need a bit of extra power.

Good luck on your shopping and your build.;)

Sincerely,

MisterFixIt1952

Agree on the derailleur! Shorter cage would be better - didnt know it existed :-)

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7 minutes ago, Jks said:

@knotty hey. So about the parts. The chainring and Lasco 56 teeth are the exact same as recommended by jeff (if i remember correctly) earlierin this thread. Both bought at amazon. The remainder of the stuff i bought at a local (in Denmark) bike parts website. 

I had  my new 3sp THIN back from the bike shop now. The made the mod in a day. Took them less than 2 hrs. Charged me 110 USD for it. It all works fine, and is so worth it. It is just a so much better ride now! Nice to be able to help the hub motor out a bit using leg power at higher speeds too!

One thing i would change though is the shifter i bought. Its a bit shit, and they had to play around a bit to get it to work by using the right shifter instead of left. Meaning i have to click 2 times on it to shift gear!... but whatever.

I'll post pictures soon, promise.

And good luck to all you THIN 3 modders. Its so worthwhile a thing to do to this bike!

Jks

That is my deduction also. Trying to use an index shifter on a Freewheel with a different pitch spacing than for which it was designed, is not conducive to exact operation and that is why SIS (Shimano Index System) and indexing was developed in the first place. Of course the difference can be overcome by installing a simple unequal length arm bell-crank, but that just adds more complexity to the system when a simple friction shifter is the obvious solution. 

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Hi,

Just an update: So here are a few pictures of my new 3sp THIN - as described earlier in this thread. I do feel quite happy with this conversion - all in all.

I feel that the 3 gearings on there (as given by the 3sp freewheel and the large 56 teeth crankset) gives the perfect choice of gears - so huge kudos to @JeffK for figuring that one out!

Me not being much of a bike mechanic, my local bike shop did the rebuild for me in 2 hours and it cost me 110USD (plus the costs of the parts bought online, of course). 

As you can see from the picture, the shifter is the "wrong side" (should have used the left side 3sp shifter) but due to the crappy nature of the brand of shifter i chose, the friction on that one just wouldnt work very well - so they ended up just putting on the right side of the shifter set instead. And it works fine - even if it means that i do have to click twice to shift up or down, and even if the numbers on the shifter arent the "1,2,3" you'd expect, and even if it does look super cluttered on the handlebar (not much helped by my bikelight which is on there too, either...) but worst of it all: if you click too much upwards, the shifter does have a tendency to throw off the chain so it ends up off the sprocket and behind the biggest of the 3 rings. But once you get the hang of all that, it isnt really a practical problem, I guess.

I've ridden a bit on it now, and I have the hang of it pretty well - the chain only fell off on me once.

About the riding experience, I think the bike rides so much better now than as a singlespeed bike. mainly, it is just nice to FEEL like you're helping out the poor hub motor at higher speeds too. But that being said, I now have come to understand that there was definitely some thought by SONDORS put into it being a singlespeed to begin with. It actually makes sense that you only help the motor out at steep inclines etc. And when going faster (anything above 25kmh really) you just throttle the thing and dont pedal (because the gearing is too low for that). That must have been the idea behind the design as a singlespeed. ...

And in a way it makes sense. My road to work is 21km and pretty much just flat with only two smaller inclines along the way. Before the 3sp conversion this took me about 45 minutes each way on the THIN. I would average about 28kmh and help out the motor on the inclines. The rest of the time, I would just give it full throttle and be "clown-peddaling" along above the low gearing. Very relaxing that was!

I can still do that, of course. But now, with 3 speeds, I feel like I can REALLY help out the motor all the time - even down hill with +35kmh speeds. So it is a much better exercise at least (in case anyone is converting to 3sp with that for an aim!). And it definitely does FEEL better to ride it as a 3sp. But interestingly, when looking at the clock and the LCD, I noticed that im not really that much faster with my 3speeds. In fact, my average speed is probably only up by 2kmh or so. And also, it didnt look like the battery was any better off either. It was still close to depleted when i arrived at work - just like it has always been when the bike was a singlespeed. And, of course things like head wind etc figure in here a lot, I know, but i really wasnt considerably quicker to travel my 21kmh than i have been in the past weeks when the THIN was a singlespeed.

Only difference was that i now came into the office with a sweatier shirt ;-)

Anyway, this was my first commute on the 3speed, so final verdict is pending: I'll see if my opinion and speeds/time changes over the coming weeks.... but I really do think it is a little strange: could it be that the peddalling somehow replaces some motor-power instead of adding extra power ON TOP of the motor power? Who knows....

Anyway, like I said, the riding feeling is definitely better, and I do get more of a workout, so I suppose that does count for something.... 

I now have high hopes for my next (and final!) upgrade: my soon-to-arrive new aftermarket battery (see seperate thread on that). The new battery i ordered is a 48v and so that should definitely increase my average speed and complement my 3 new gears well. That's the plan anyhow!

I look forward to hearing and seeing more 3speed THIN conversions on here. Good luck !

JKS

 

 

IMG_20161024_114939.jpg

IMG_20161024_114944.jpg

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Great write up and synopsis of your conversion. It's so modern and technical I had Siri read it to me. <];~). One thing that will prevent the over shifting is to replace that side limit screw with a longer one. I'm surprised that you're not seeing higher top speeds. Did you remove the limit on the controller by Programing a higher limit on the LCD? Oh course our Bafang motors can only spin so fast but I look forward to reading further results and your results after your battery upgrade. Great Job

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@Tabletteer Thanks man. Hope it helps a little to give others interested in converting a realistic picture of what to expect in terms of benefits, costs and hassle!.. And great thinking with the side limit screw. Will try that for sure!

And yes, I did derestrict to speed limit on the Luna LCD... So that part, I really dont get... Could it be that my stock sondors battery has already lost so much capacity to explain that no extra speed has been gained? (after all, I have done a total of 1.500km on the bike since i had it, and I do tend to discharge the battery hard with full throttelling...)

Who knows.

Anhyway, will be nice I hope with the new battery, when it gets here ;-)

JKS 

 

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Hi hope everyone's day is wonderful.

I'm looking to install the gearing on my bike, but I'm lost on how to do it and what the final items I need are to make it complete.

Is there anyway someone can email me at (rs05251@gmail.com) or reply here to me with links to buy everything such as the gearing?

I saw that the original forum poster had issues so I'm curious to where he got these items if someone could please link me.

Is there any YouTube videos on how to do this? Sometimes its as if I want to ride around without the battery with my bike, but I need the gears to get up hills so I'm in need of knowing how to do this. 

Thanks!

Edited by Ryan

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On 10/25/2016 at 3:37 AM, Jks said:

@Tabletteer Thanks man. Hope it helps a little to give others interested in converting a realistic picture of what to expect in terms of benefits, costs and hassle!.. And great thinking with the side limit screw. Will try that for sure!

And yes, I did derestrict to speed limit on the Luna LCD... So that part, I really dont get... Could it be that my stock sondors battery has already lost so much capacity to explain that no extra speed has been gained? (after all, I have done a total of 1.500km on the bike since i had it, and I do tend to discharge the battery hard with full throttelling...)

Who knows.

Anhyway, will be nice I hope with the new battery, when it gets here ;-)

JKS 

 

 

On 10/21/2016 at 2:15 PM, Tabletteer said:

That is my deduction also. Trying to use an index shifter on a Freewheel with a different pitch spacing than for which it was designed, is not conducive to exact operation and that is why SIS (Shimano Index System) and indexing was developed in the first place. Of course the difference can be overcome by installing a simple unequal length arm bell-crank, but that just adds more complexity to the system when a simple friction shifter is the obvious solution. 

Hi hope everyone's day is wonderful.

I'm looking to install the gearing on my bike, but I'm lost on how to do it and what the final items I need are to make it complete.

Is there anyway someone can email me at (rs05251@gmail.com) or reply here to me with links to buy everything such as the gearing?

I saw that the original forum poster had issues so I'm curious to where he got these items if someone could please link me.

Is there any YouTube videos on how to do this? Sometimes its as if I want to ride around without the battery with my bike, but I need the gears to get up hills so I'm in need of knowing how to do this. 

Thanks!

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14 hours ago, Ryan said:

Hi hope everyone's day is wonderful.

I'm looking to install the gearing on my bike, but I'm lost on how to do it and what the final items I need are to make it complete.

Is there anyway someone can email me at (rs05251@gmail.com) or reply here to me with links to buy everything such as the gearing?

I saw that the original forum poster had issues so I'm curious to where he got these items if someone could please link me.

Is there any YouTube videos on how to do this? Sometimes its as if I want to ride around without the battery with my bike, but I need the gears to get up hills so I'm in need of knowing how to do this. 

Thanks!

Hi Ryan, if you read through this thread you'll find that there's actually a couple different 3-speed conversions that have been done in different ways, some more successfully than others, some with an eye toward top speed, and others with more focus on lower gearing for better hill climbing. Good luck!

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15 hours ago, Ryan said:

 

Hi hope everyone's day is wonderful.

I'm looking to install the gearing on my bike, but I'm lost on how to do it and what the final items I need are to make it complete.

Is there anyway someone can email me at (rs05251@gmail.com) or reply here to me with links to buy everything such as the gearing?

I saw that the original forum poster had issues so I'm curious to where he got these items if someone could please link me.

Is there any YouTube videos on how to do this? Sometimes its as if I want to ride around without the battery with my bike, but I need the gears to get up hills so I'm in need of knowing how to do this. 

Thanks!

I didn't use a camera to film it, But, I tried to well document the steps I did in my post. Plus, I just updated my post which has the parts list updated with working Amazon links.  Let me know if you have any questions.

 

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I want to do It and have read your steps about 5 times now, but I'm just in fear of breaking something. Also I don't have a saw to cut the grip is there anything else I can do? And will everything fit the frame?

Edited by Ryan

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      Hello everyone. I've been a lurker here for a while and learned a lot from this forum. Well here's the situation, I got into a small accident last week and ended up bending one of the crank arms. It ran fine just up until tonight when I was riding home from the beach. My bike will no longer freewheel.  For a while if I pedaled enough the bike wouldn't freewheel but after about 2 minutes it would start to freewheel again. I'm at a loss at what I should do, my roommate fixes bikes for a living on the weekends at a local flea market and he says he doesn't have the tools to remove the cog that is on the bike. I have the fat tire Sondors bike from indigogo.
    • By MisterFixIt1952
      I have been working on a  3-Speed Conversion with alienmeatsack, biknut and steve-condie . I have 2 yellow bikes purchased on the third day of the first indigogo campaign, one for myself and one for my lady. I have purchased most of the needed parts. Three speed freewheel cog set, the derailleur and a new 52t sprocket crankset. The only part missing, besides a chain and some misc. hardware, is a shifter. Due to the odd pitch (pitch is the measurement between cogs) of the 3 speed cogset (6.2mm vrs. 5mm-5.5mm found on most 6-10 speed bike cassettes) I am unable to find a suitable index shifter that will work with a shimano derailleur. Apparently, no one makes an index shifter for a 3 speed, only a friction shifter or a twist grip shifter. I would really like to use an index shifter with a gear indicator. Not so much for myself, but to simplify shifting for my ladies bike. She likes things obvious and simple. Myself, I would use whatever I could cludge together, if I had too. With only three speeds it just strikes me that you should just be able to thumb the shift lever and shift up or down with the indicator showing 1, 2 or 3. Yeah, right!! We all know what should be and what is are often miles apart. No one makes a 3 speed rear derailleur shifter, they only make 3 speed front derailleur shifters and the two are entirely different animals with different pull lengths (the length of cable pull required to move the chain to the next cog).
       
      To solve my problem I have decided to investigate building an electronic derailleur controlled by an up-down shift switch. Now this might seem like a complicated solution to the shifter problem but being a mechanical engineer (in a former life) I decided to investigate the possibility. Shimano and Sram both make electronic shifters but at a cost of close to $2,000 for the set, I decided to see what good old DIY ingenuity could accomplish. Never dismiss the capabilities of a broke man with an expensive dream. Necessity truely is the mother of invention. Besides, it sounded like a fun project and being retired, I'm supposed to have time for fun projects, right?
      So, I did what any modern inventor would do, I went to Google for information regarding electronic derailleurs. To my delight, I found quite a bit of information on the subject. It seems that when shimano came out with their $2000 electronic shifter/derailleur setup, for road bikes, it set off a storm of shifter envy among the poor but inventive DIY community. The best website, devoted to the subject of servo shifted derailleurs, was DIYshift.com by Preston Fall (a fellow Oregonian). This site is referred to in almost all of the web articles that I came across. Unfortunately, the site is no longer available having been replaced by what ap[pears to be an Asian porno site. What makes this so unfortunate is the fact that most of the newer articles used DIYshift.com as a model for their designs and they refer to that site for pictures and details leaving little, useful, detailed information, just vague descriptions of the actual mechanism. Also, there are half a dozen uTube videos about DIY shifter projects. As is usual with uTube videos, there is a noticeable lack of hard information about how to build one with builders showing very little detail and few closeups, preferring to tease you with their cleverness and leaving you to fend for yourself figuring out the details.
      The good news is I found the contents of DIyshift.com on Github https://github.com/Diyshift (thank you Google)
      Here is a list of all of the uTube videos devoted to electronic shifters. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=DIY+electronic+derailleur This is worth checking out so you can see what the possabilities are.
      I also found an instructable detailing how to build an electronic derailleur. http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Electronic-Derailleur/
      This project is totally awesome. Not only does it solve the shifter problem but it can easily be upgraded to a larger cassette by changing the programming. Also, I have some ideas to turn this into an auto shift by putting a strain gauge on the crank chain that will automatically upshift or down shift depending on how much force I am putting into peddling. Much better than the cadence system built into the controller. It would be easy to also put together a shifter that would also shift a front derailleur by using a 2 channel servo controller. Do to the cheap cost of servo controller boards, DC-DC converters and arduino processor boards, this project could be put together for about $50 plus the cost of the derailleur. The whole system could be powered by the bike battery or a separate 7.4v Li-On battery, like the kind used in RC models. According to what I've read, a 7.4v battery is good for about 40,000 shifts (a conservative estimate).
       I plan on putting some real effort into this project, including designing a circuit board, shift switch with an led readout showing the gear selected and the servo mount. The software has already been written but I will check it out and make sure that it works with my version and is easy to use. I have an idea that will allow me to program the controller wirelessly using my tablet or a smart phone making it easy to tune the system. I think I will see about putting together a complete shift kit with everything but the servo and the derailleur. I have quite a bit of work to do on this but I will post more information as it comes. I am shopping up parts right now and still waiting for my shimano 105 derailleur to arrive. I'll know more when it gets here.
      Let me know if anyone out there that has any experience with one of these electronic shifters or if there is anyone else interested in this project.


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