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Josh Wardell

Beware loose battery terminal connections

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This summer I came across a potentially bad issue, the factory did not properly tighten the wires inside the battery holder. Only once while riding did my battery mysteriously cut out for a minute and seemed to work again for several rides. I was removing the battery one day (I don't normally do that) and noticed the wire seemed slightly loser than it should be. I unscrewed the small plate on the bottom of the battery holder and found this:



Those are lock nuts and do not move on their own if tightened properly. They are immediately behind the two spring battery contacts in the battery holder. This thing has been rattling around and sparking up a storm for several rides! As you can see, it was partially melted from the added resistance and charring. 




I would encourage everyone to at least give the battery cables a little wiggle and listen for any looseness. If you are suspicious at all, you need to first remove the battery holder from the lower frame with the two alan screws, then use a small philips to remove the small connection cover.

Also, you must put a pin or tiny screwdriver through the hole in the battery spring contact to prevent it from turning before attempting to tighten the hex screws for the wires.

If your wire IS fried like mine, first remove it completely and clean off any charring with a wire brush. Make sure the two can't touch and short when back in the holder, add some electrical tape if necessary.


Here's a quick video as well:




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The other electrical power cut-out anomaly, occures when the canister battery is not locked in the cradle. Rough terrain can cause momentary loss of power.  It's important to make sure the lock clicks, when installing the battery and then, physically trying to remove the battery, to make sure it's secure. If it is not, arching and high power drain can occurre and some melting of the plastic around the contact points on the battery canister and cradle can occur.




Edited by Reddy Kilowatt

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