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@MattRobertson - I can look at the motor to see if it has any info on it to help me figure out what exactly is inside and maybe do a swap, who knows. I'm pretty happy with it so far, I've had no issues with wind or hills thus far. But I would like a little more ump eventually. Maybe a little time passing will give me more options.

It figures on the 750 and that swap/plug and play. So that 35A will plug into the 750's odd wiring AND the Sondors wiring and be good? My battery is not rated high enough to really use the 750 fully but the low end would be nice. I was going more for mileage. I need to see what I got in there but I want to say its the low end of the replacements when I got it batterywise. I know I have a 25A controller and Wendy LCD on the fatty. I was going to see if the guts would swap out of the hub while I was fixing/removing the 3Spd upgrade parts and putting on a new chain. I figured that would be a good time to see if its guts fit so Id dint have to rewire and retrue a rim. I did find spokes from a place that look to be the right length and got a set plus 10 extras, and I got a rim that's same size, just in case. But I really dread respoking, it is difficult on a standard BMX wheel, but on this, I'm going to have to build a custom true-ing rig to get it right. It's why I've put off mounting that 750 into the new rim, that and the controller plug and play issue. But if I can work around the controller part now, it puts me one step closer. I would much rather just swap guts though. We'll see. I am thinking sometime in the next few weeks I'll get her up on the stand and start fixing it and play with the 750.

I honestly could sell the 750 and get something else that fit the bill too and I'd not be offended by the money lost in the process... I just want the fat bike to be back operational... and since I have the thin and it works, I have one to ride either way. Main issue w the fatty is the tires, Ive got 8oz+ of Slime in each plus 4xxxl liners and still am getting holes that slow leak. I can air them up to pressure, and in a week one needs air, then do it again and 3 weeks later it needs air. Each time I spin the tire slowly trying to get Slime to go into the hole. I might take the tube out and moosh it around to make sure the Slimes still "slimy" and work it into any holes.. and patch it. But I am more concerned about removing the 3Speed and getting a new freewheel and chain on it so it rides again more then anything.

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The 750 itself will give you only a small bump in torque.  Its the upgraded controller @ 35 amps where you get the performance benefit.  I wanted the 750 as I wanted a more bulletproof hi mileage motor.  Since mid-March when I put the front motor on, I have put about 870 miles on the bike.  Knowing that was going to happen and will continue, I wanted max reliability and the 750 is clearly the champ of beefiness in that product line

Yes the 35a controller will plug into the big motor plug AND it has all the Sondors HIGO connectors.  Plus it has an extra red HIGO power lead you can use to plug in a horn and headlight combo conveniently sold by the same vendors :-).

I paid my LBS to do the wheel re-stringing.  I know from many years experience I can only make things worse with a spoke wrench in my hands.  Granted I have never gotten serious about learning the skill, but I have other fish to fry than learn wheel building.  Actually I am right in the middle of building an entire bike out of the spare parts I have left over from my Sondors fattie upgrade experience.  Frankenbike's frame gets painted today.

I also wanted a local shop relationship in case something ugly happens down the road.  Nowadays, you can pay Luna to put both a front and a rear 750 into one of the nice Weinmann 80mm double wall rims for an extra $100.

I am at 1500 miles on that bike and got a flat on Day 1 from a big piece of steel that nothing would have stopped, and my second flat a couple of days ago from a tiny strand of wire that worked its way thru the 4XL Tuffy.  Thats it.  Part of the magic I think is the 1mm thick Kenda 4.9 tubes I use in 4.0 tires.  Rubber that is not distended holds air longer and in at least one proven instance can resist a puncture at least a little.  i don't use slime and don't much like it or its associated BS.

Edited by MattRobertson

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@MattRobertson - NONE of my local shops will even touch the relacing of the rim... even the ones that do fat bikes. They are scared of (and dont have rigs for) the huge hub. I'd have to pay someone online to do it. Maybe I can send the parts off to Luna or somewhere to have done and get a new tube/tire to put on it and just swap it out easily.

You are making me want to get that 35A controller and use the 750. I may have to look at that next payday. Have a motorcycle and hospital bills to pay too, so Im kind of limited in funds right now or the controller would be on order as we speak due to you talking me into it. :D

Frankenbike sounds fun, I look forward to seeing what you do! Im pretty OK with building bikes but like you, re-spoking is not my strong suit. Ive done it many times in BMX land when I was young, had the rig and patience. I built a rig 5 or so years ago for a friend that uses laser pointers to true, with a wide hub seat out of wood and metal.. so I could build one just for the Sondors super fat hubs just as easily but the trueing process is a real bitch pardon my french. I know the lacing pattern, have documented it on paper (and here). But getting it true is not easy unless you want to sit and tweak and tweak for hours (or days in my case). Will have to see who will do it, I'd pay Luna the extra to do it. I wonder if they will do so if I send my motor and buy the spokes/rim from them.

1500 miles, wow, you are a rider man! I'm looking at new tubes, thicker... I dont lke the slime either. It's messy and makes things uneven if there's a lot in there. And when you have 8-10oz, it can get dicey and uneven/wobble at higher speeds. I may have to see if I can find some thicker tubes like yours that are larger to fit in my 3.5" tires instead.

The Thin will get a new controller and LCD first though. Then repair the Fat back to single speed. I might play with the front chain ring teeth a tad and possibly crank length but will most likely got back to full stock (and a new chain)... also moving the rack to the thin I think and then getting a new rack once its going. I need somewhere to put the battery extra and the USB pump I got from links here. (I have a small bag with all my bits I carry when I do longer rides so might as well carry everything I need to be prepared).

Just waiting to be freed by the doctor after my GI surgery in March so I can ride again and then all this will start happening. I've already cleanup the garage and got the parts on order for fixing the fat bike... and the Thin is just sitting waiting to be ridden. Can't wait to ride it at night with my MonkeyLights! And wire that Thin up to use both batteries, too. :D

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FYI I spoke with Luna, they aren't' currently doing custom lacing as they don't have a in-house lacer and are very busy. So it looks like Im going to have to go visit all the shops in town, AGAIN, and try to find someone who will do it. Or buy yet another 750 or 1000 -redone by someone like Luna and add the newer 35A controller myself.

Last time I tried the local shops, they had no clue or didnt or wouldn't touch it. Their claims were they didnt have the rig, the personnel, or the interest. This wasnt that long ago, and I honestly felt like I knew more about bikes then some of the local shops who claimed to know their stuff. Kind of a let down.

The nearby Trek shop is the only one who even showed any interest. And they are th ones who kindly helped me get my 3-speed conversion working 100% for free. And they took an interest in my Sondors since they'd never seen it before. I think if they hadnt been so busy, at least 2 of them would have asked to try it out in the parking lot.

I may still try getting the spokes and rim (I cant find my spokes I ordered:/) and get my rig finished and try myself. But Im leaning towards just buying a -redone 750-1000 at this point. But again I need to get the fatty working and make sure the battery works still first. And I also am thinking I may see about selling the battery and getting something newer and higher A rated to give the 750 more to work with. When I got it, I went for mileage on the stock 350, with hopes to push it to 500w or so under pressure. I found w the 3-speed this was perfect and hills etc were no biggie if I down shifted. Since I'll be removing the 3Spd, I am wondering if Im going to need more torque and pep.

But until I repair it, none of this matters. I keep saying "next weekend I'll work on it" and then something comes up. Like this one, which was supposed to be my final "sit at home relaxing" one before I started back to life and work Monday. but my dog got sick so I've spent it in panic mode.

 

I did however charge up the Thin, and I made notes and drawings for my battery chassis and started figuring out my parallel wiring. I cant find the "key" for the stock battery so Im going to cut the little notch it locks into out so the battery comes in and out easily. But the stock one will just be there for backup for long day rides. I jut need to move the rack over and get my carry pack cleaned up and ready for it and my tools, compressor etc.

I look forward to riding the thin and to getting the fat bike back working and doing some upgrades on it. Esp the 750 since I now know I can put a plug and play controller in it.

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@alienmeatsack I went to Luna and indeed on the bare motors the lacing options are no longer there.  However on the 'kits' they are both still offering it.

Front motor:

https://lunacycle.com/BAFANG-750w-geared-fat-motor-kit-for-front-wheel/

Rear motor:

https://lunacycle.com/48-52v-750w-geared-fat-motor-kit-for-rear-wheel/

The bad news is you have to buy the kit to get the wheel option.  However they come with things you can use (torque arm) and things you can sell (controller, display) to mitigate the added cost.  Considering the cost of my wheels, I would have come out well ahead if I had taken the wheel options.  I didn't do it because I wanted to establish a relationship with a LBS for reasons you understand all too well. 

If you strike out, the option is still there for you.

Edited by MattRobertson

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On 5/3/2017 at 2:45 PM, MattRobertson said:

...
I am at 1500 miles on that bike and got a flat on Day 1 from a big piece of steel that nothing would have stopped, and my second flat a couple of days ago from a tiny strand of wire that worked its way thru the 4XL Tuffy.  Thats it.  Part of the magic I think is the 1mm thick Kenda 4.9 tubes I use in 4.0 tires.  Rubber that is not distended holds air longer and in at least one proven instance can resist a puncture at least a little.  i don't use slime and don't much like it or its associated BS.

 

Does anyone make tubeless-rated tires & rims for the Fattie or Thin?

Stans Tubeless Sealant (with tubeless-rated tires & rims) is the magic solution for my mountain bikes. Amazingly thin & runny. NOT like slime at all. Read MBA test details here.

 

Oh, and I can ride errands for a week on my Thin with one charge of the LT48 battery. Over the moon! :-)

Catfish ...

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Sure, for the Sondors Fat (not sure about any fattie), the rims at Luna are tubless ready but you can find the same or similar rim with multiple brandings on any competent online bike parts retailer inventory, try Niagaracycle.com  https://lunacycle.com/weinmann-dhl80-26x4-36h-fat-bike-rim/ are tubless ready. Any fat tire will say in its advertising or specs if it's tubless ready. Same for the thin, Google search for the appropriate size, for replacment rims and tires. 

Ain't you lucky.  I charge either my 52V 14ah rack battery & my 52v L3 after every ride. I wouldn't dare leave without fully charged batteries. Can never tell where the day might take me. 

Edited by Tabletteer

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@MattRobertson - I may end up doing that, getting their pre-done 750 or 1000 and a new controller... but I have to decide if Im going to sell it once I repair it vs upgrade it more. Im still scared of it due to the weight and damage it did to my leg. It's a year and 3 months later and I am still not back to where I was. And I went off path on the Thin the other day and barely got shifted to my good left leg to stop myself before I went down hard. So selling the fat once repaired may be what I do and then keep upgrading the THIN. I want to replace the LCD/controller, grab a 2nd bigger battery, and move the rack over to store the battery so I know I have all day power on board. Plus I can tuck tubes, patches, the USB battery compressor and CO2 cartridges etc into the rack bag.

I am loving the power this LT48 battery gives me, I can do 3 days 3-4 PAS against the wind 10-12 miles a day without a re-charge, go all the way downtown and throttle only all the way back at 19MPH max limit, and when I do hills, it's sending over 600w to the motor. So I think if I can find a thin sized 750-1000 I might get that and do the swap like above but for the thin instead. Im hoping there's a controller/motor combo I can get like you mentioned but for the thin. And I guess I should sell this 750 sitting in the garage. Or take it apart to mark all the wires and solder the cable from the Sondors motor onto the new one for kicks. Not sure what Im going to do. The thin kind of has my heart right now.

I loved the fatty until the wreck. Now, the thin has been my fave. Has 300 miles on it even with my being down for a year and 3 months with essentially 2 months of riding in there on it. I had GI surgery in March and just got back to riding a few weeks back and its all I do 4-5x a week at 10-16 miles... once the dr approves me to up my workouts, Im going back to my 26m round trip rides on weekends too. I dont have time for that during the week, its 45 min each way to downtown, vs my rides now which are 10-16 miles and 45-55min rt. And Im technically not supposed to lift over 50lbs or do any heavy core work since I have an incision healing below my belly button.

End of March is not my fave time. Broke my leg and had surgery in 2016, then had GI surgery March 2016, almostthe same day one year later.

I can say this, Im glad to be alive and VERY glad to have this THIN. It literally helped me PT my leg/ankle, helped and helps me up hills the leg and ankle arent strong enough for, and it's light enough I can rideit without worry.

 

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meh... you can crash on anything.  Its not the bike that hurts generally, its the sudden deceleration via impact or skidding along the ground.  I wouldn't blame the fattie.  It was just a passenger :D

Look for the double torque motor at Luna.  I think it would be perfect for a Thin, especially if you are doing a front motor.  Having done one, I would always go for an AWD option now on any electric bike I was tinkering with.  Let the rear motor alone and just add one to the front to get the power balance and reduced individual motor load.  Don't treat it as a hot rod, instead look to the benefit of the AWD concept, which makes no real sense on a motorcycle I think but works great for an ebike.  But I'd want to do a dual output battery for sure (you could do a splitter off yours I am sure).

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On 3/21/2016 at 2:59 PM, alienmeatsack said:

For those interested, here are photos of what you get from Velomobile's Shop when you get one of their triangle batteries. This is a 36v/20ah upgrade, which comes with the charger and a wiring harness. The hardness itself plugs directly into the battery and then you have to connect it to the bike's controller's positive and negative. I'm going to go to Radio Shack and get something like the connector below to make removal easy and fool proof.

It's charging now and the charger's fan sounds like a jet engine. I have no idea how long it needs to charge but I'm going to wire and test tonight or tomorrow and then go for a proper full ride as soon as the weather is better.

According to the specs, I should get 2.5x more mileage from this vs the stock battery.

I also have yet another controller of the 25a variety here to install at some point as well. I am hoping to get a second larger 48/30 battery to put it to use, and when my new motor arrives I expect I'll be able to batter take advantage of the new controller and battery.

IMG_4904.JPG

IMG_4905.JPG

IMG_4901.JPG

IMG_4900.JPG

02740151_00_bdfda089-824d-430c-b2d2-1057316fddbf_grande.jpgwhat amp is the fuse?

 

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This post today got me wanting to get back to seeing if that 750w BFang guts will fit and work in the stock 350w hub and checking the wiring to see if the two despite different plugs are same otherwise.

If so I may end up ordering a 750-1000 hub prelaced into a new rim so I don't ruin the stock one and try it.

My garage is cramped so I need to move stuff a bit to work on it. 1 car garage, 3 push mowers, 2 motorcycles, 3 bikes and a load of other junk does not make for an open workspace. Lol.

Am kind of excited to try this. If it works, means we can gut swap BFang/bafang motors to upgrade and just swap the plugs in the process to have more umf. I don't want speed, I want hill and wind power. And since I know my stock thin is sending 700+ watts in the right condition according to the display to the 350w stock motor, having a little more powerful one in that would be nice for piece of mind as well.

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35 minutes ago, alienmeatsack said:

This post today got me wanting to get back to seeing if that 750w BFang guts will fit and work in the stock 350w hub and checking the wiring to see if the two despite different plugs are same otherwise.

If so I may end up ordering a 750-1000 hub prelaced into a new rim so I don't ruin the stock one and try it.

My garage is cramped so I need to move stuff a bit to work on it. 1 car garage, 3 push mowers, 2 motorcycles, 3 bikes and a load of other junk does not make for an open workspace. Lol.

Am kind of excited to try this. If it works, means we can gut swap BFang/bafang motors to upgrade and just swap the plugs in the process to have more umf. I don't want speed, I want hill and wind power. And since I know my stock thin is sending 700+ watts in the right condition according to the display to the 350w stock motor, having a little more powerful one in that would be nice for piece of mind as well.

seems like you need a shed for all your gagdets, my friend....lol

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If you guys are looking for upgrade parts for your Sondors or any ebike, check out www.electrobikeworld.com under Sondors Upgrades. There you will find the best value for your battery needs. All batteries are made with genuine Panasonic or Samsung cells, coupled with high quality BMS and battery charger. Because of this, all of the batteries are back with a 1 year warranty. They also have LCD, controllers and motor upgrades for the Sondors bike. They do custom battery packs, just provide the dimensions and specs, they can build it. Check it out. 

www.electrobikeworld.com

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