Jump to content

Power Upgrades & Accessories


Recommended Posts

@edwin - Well, Kyle told me the connectors were supposed to be included in the box but mine had none, just bare wires. I got the 2 pin Molex connectors rated at 20A for it, but I ended up using the connectors on the now unused stock controller instead so it plugged right into the new controller. I clipped the connectors on the stock motor off, soldered them to the new harness and used double layers of shrink wrap to ensure the connections were solid and would not come apart. This way I can plug the battery harness into the 20A or 25A controller easily without having to cut wires and add on connectors.

With controller, there is only so much wire there to work with and if you cut some off, that means you are left with less to work with. Thats why the harness was nice. And I think the stock Sondors could use a fuse harness as well so you have some wiring between the battery and the controller to work with, and a fuse for safety.

I've not heard of anyone burning up a Sondors stock motor minus someone who is larger and who uses throttle only uphill for extended periods. (like 30 minutes or more uphill) and even that usually just melts the battery connector in the stock harness first.

Our motor is rated 250-750w, so it should handle most anything you throw at it. I am very curious to see how my 36v/20ah battery and 25a controller work with the motor as I ride a lot until my 750w motor comes, then to see what the 750w does in comparison.

I can go from sitting still to 20MPH in moments, I can hit 24 MPH which is scary fast on a bike, I can power up hills with PAS set up a bit. And with my 3 speed conversion I have options to help make me go at any speed how I want and get the amount of exercise I want.

Im sure as time passes and people mod and overclock (or whatever its called with a controller and motor) we'll see more of the limitations but for now I think having more mileage and a little more get up and go is all most people need. Those who want to go 35-40 MPH need to get a scooter or motorcycle, at that speed if you bail wearing bike gear you are screwed.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Daniel Fløjgaard Gregersen - I actually have a small DC fan I am adding into mine to hopefully deal with the cooling, especially in summer. It's a small PC DC 12v fan meant for a micro PC, Which will be wired directly into the power on the controller using a little electronic wizardry. My goal is to put the fan somewhere, most likely in front on the cable input hole, but possibly mounting it in its own hole. I Want it to pull air directly through taking full advantage of air moving in as I ride as well as the fan motor itself. I for now (we'll, to be honestl it's not mounted I've only done the preliminary circuit config) will be simply running its power off the controller/battery stepping the voltage down to a steady speed. My ultimate goal is to add something to sense speed and heat in the box and have the fan turn up and down based on that. Due to my wreck, I haven't gotten to that point.

Also to help cooling, I've got an L bracket in the works that bolts to the old battery harness bolts on the frame with its L ending near the back by where the controller sits. This will be coated in vinyl and the battery will sit on it allowing air around it instead of using the foam like we both use both. I hope this aids  in cooling the system as well. My L bracket design uses gravity and 3 points of contact to hold the battery. (Have not made it, just mocked it up, accident stopped my progress) Primary rest is the back bottom of the bracket taking most of the weight of the battery, second and third are smaller arms on left/right of battery to steady it and hold it sideways in place. And I was thinking a simple Velcro strap between these to keep the battery snug.

I had it suggested that I also take the cap off one side of the battery box and make the fan fit there using that hole, with some kind of vent cover to stop water from getting in but air to pass freely.

I have a feeling as we upgrade and temps climb in summer that cooling will be needed to make sure the system doesn't overheat. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know if C13 is applicable or will have any value since we don't have ABS in our motors as far as I know. But I think all of the configuration settings should be revisited to optimize for the new controllers and batteries we all are adding.

I did have Kyle with Velomobile suggest that I could change C12 but the batteries on board CMS performs this feature already.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I know P5 = 0 is real time monitoring, and that changing it can effect the performance greatly. The manual says that 24v is somewhere from 4-11 and 36v somewhere from 5-15 and that it goes up to 40. I am not sure what the best setting is because it will depend on your batteries voltage, amps, and what kind of onboard controller it has plus the bikes controller. And, you have to keep in mind that several of the other settings can also connect to and impact this setting as well.

I am going to see if Kyle at Velomobile has any thoughts. But I'd say, if you are adventurous, try settings and see what you get both on the display and functinoality, and note the results.

As far as what voltage the battery is "dead" at, that will depend on your battery's BMS, your C12 setting, and your battery itself.The battery should cut off voltage at a certain range when it's at what it considers its low end safe cut off based on the BMS and C12 setting (the BMS -should- override the C12 parameter).


Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd say leave P5 = 0, full charged battery, life back wheel and run throttle full speed and note speed and voltage on display. Then go ride until it's about half dead, repeat this and note, and then when it's quarter battery left, repeat. This should technically give you a voltage chart to calculate basic slope of charge and estimate when the cutoff happens.

Makesure when doing this test that you either have your top speed set beyond what your battery/motor can do so its not cycling the PWM cutoff, or set it somewhere that you know it's constantly going to hit the limiter. Or both (one round each) to note and calculate.

On mine, if I set the max speed to anything below 23-24MPH, I hit the limiter at max throttle and the bike does that "go, pause, go pause" thing repeatedly. If I use say 20MPH, it does it often and regularly since my controller and battery can easily exceed its max speed. And if set it above 28MPH, it just goes and never has any pauses because I never actually hit the limiter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, alienmeatsack said:

My Banfan 750W arrived today from China. It cam with 2 connectors, once on the motor and one separate. Neither appear to match the Sondors wiring. Hoping if the swap works I can do same with the the wiring. due to having just had ankle surgery the photos will have to wait a few days.

If the swap works, you should sell the 350W one. Keep us updated :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive been pondering either keeping all the old parts to build a drift trike, or selling them to help pay for my Thin (which will mostl likely just get a battery and controller upgrade down the line)

Im not mobile enough to even go look at and snap shots of the motors or to see what is involved in removing the harneses etc.

If I do have to relace, I will buy a rim and laces and add to my rear wheel relace thread to finish it out. REALLY hoping the gear/motor swap works though!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On February 17, 2016 at 6:07 AM, alienmeatsack said:

Has anyone done any testing of what signal is being sent or not sent from the upgraded controllers headlamp/brake light plug? It has 2 pins in it, so one can assume it's probably just sending basic info over this, either an off/on or resistance change to tell something in the lamp/brake to come on.

I was considering putting a voltage tester on mine to see if its completing a circuit, sending voltage one way or the other, or changing resistance, etc so I could figure out how to wire a light/brake controller to it without buying a custom made one.

IMG_4007 2.jpg

I installed my new controller today and when I put the brakes on a little icon on the LCD lights up. So pretty sure this is for a brake light. If anybody finds a direct plug in tail light post it up!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I go a few photos of the connectors that came with the motor. They do not match the Sondors harness or either of the other controllers harness. Not sure why, since these controllers seem to be pretty standard.

It appears to have both the "motor" mounted harness as well as what you'd wire into the bike. So my options are to figure out the wires and hack their harness into the bike's controller lead to the motor or do same with the stock motor's harness from the motor itself... or hope I can remove the harness inside the motor and put the old oen in the new motor.

Really confused why a Bafang motor that, besides the power size, has completely different plugs from ANYTHING Ive seen on ebiikes.

Most likely will figure out the new motor's wiring and match that to the bikes wiring and solder/waterproof it. Unless I can find the plug.

Photos below are the plug coming out of the motor, the plug in the bag for going to the controller and the other end of that.





Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎3‎/‎14‎/‎2016 at 3:19 PM, alienmeatsack said:

I just ordered the 48V(36V) 750w Bafang threaded motor. My hope is to see if the guts/gears fit in the stock motor's housing and work, and if not, to do a proper relacing to put the motor in. I got it from eBay since I couldn't find any of the usual shops with one in stock, or I'd link to it. I don't want to do that until I get it and am sure it's good before linking for everyone.

I'll do a full separate thread on my swap or re-lace experience with it. My new battery should run it, just won't use it's full potential. I almost went with the 500 but I've read that the 350 is very close to the 500 and is actually just pushed towards the 500's capabilities anyway. Which jives with the data my Wendy LCD tells me when I throttle full and see over 500w going to the motor.


Just curious if the 750w motor fit inside the existing motor housing, or did you have to re-lace the wheel?  Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys, great topics and links !!

two questions:

- the replacement batteries from Aliexpress are HIGHER capacity then the stock battery - right ?

- what would be the max battery that still fits where the original battery fits - and has more capacity ? do i Need a new Controller ?

- What in Gods Name is the PAS ? I nowhere found an Explanation what it actually means - i just know that i Can set 5 different ones with my LCD Display (genuine Sondors)


Happy to get a reply

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Senaj said:

Hi guys, great topics and links !!

two questions:

- the replacement batteries from Aliexpress are HIGHER capacity then the stock battery - right ?

- what would be the max battery that still fits where the original battery fits - and has more capacity ? do i Need a new Controller ?

- What in Gods Name is the PAS ? I nowhere found an Explanation what it actually means - i just know that i Can set 5 different ones with my LCD Display (genuine Sondors)


Happy to get a reply

Hey Senaj, welcome to the forum!

The Sondors stock battery has 8.8 Ah. The one from AliExpress has < 10 Ah, so a little bit more than the stock battery. The battery you can get from LunaCycle has 13.6 Ah. All of those batteries are bottle batteries and have 36 V.

Corollary, the 13.6 Ah battery is the biggest one available which has the bottle design and fit into the battery craddle of your Sondors FAT. You do not need to change the controller when using those bottle batteries.

PAS = Peddle Assist Sensor. It defines the amount of power the ebike motor gets when your peddle. The higher the PAS level, the more power the motor gets and the faster you go when peddeling.

Edited by 3D-vice
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey @3D-vice thanks for the greeting :-)

well i just ordered the one from ALIExpress since i have beein waiting for my backer-kit second battery then sondors told me they cannot hsip (still waiting for my refund since may) then i ordered a new one from the official webiste (still waiting for it) and i Need a new/spare battery and would love to have a second charger for the battery., Is there one i Can use APART from the original charger  Mabe one being quicker in charging my stock and new battery ?


PAS: so this means the highter the PAS Level (e.g. 4) the faster i am and the easier it is to Cycle - right ?

Thanks and Kind regards



  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Senaj said:

PAS: so this means the highter the PAS Level (e.g. 4) the faster i am and the easier it is to Cycle - right ?

^^ You got it!

I know that Luna Cycle sells fitting chargers, have a look here. I recently had a chat with Luna Cycle and they told me that they'll ship everything from their catalog EXCEPT batteries to overseas locations (dammit, I need a spare battery too). I assume you are also residing outside the US? So you should be OK with ordering their charger as soon as they are available again. However, I think you could use any charger (e.g. via Amazon, etc.) which fits the required specs and has a fitting plug.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@3D-vice great man - thanks a lot now i got this PAS Thing  :-)..


Yeah Luna Cycle - i wrote them a very polite and friendly E-Mail and i got back what was the example on how to NOT get a customer: pissy, nasty and unfriendly  - just because i DARED to ask whether they deliver to germany AND I DARED to ask more questions allthough he already replied that they do not deliver to germany. (note: my list of questions was all in one E-Mail). i ordered the one from ALIexpress - lets see what happens..

to answer Your question: i live in Berlin, Germany.

but: given how unfriendly they were i dont know whether i really want to give them my Money...

found another one on ALIExpress but also ordered the original one from Sondors - just had no replies since may about my order...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Senaj Ahh Berlin capital city, that's just about 600km away from my location, hehehe. ;)

The guys at AliExpress are doing a really professional business, I had good experience doing bisuness with them so far.

Please let me know if you receive your spare battery from Sondors or AliExpress. I want to buy a spare battery too, but since the last time I ordered a Lithium-Ion battery from an overseas shop and IT GOT CONFISCATED BY GERMAN CUSTOMS (the hell, WHY???), I'm a bit unsure about ordering Lithium-Ion batteries. The seller said that the one which got confiscated (it was a hoverboard battery) was packaged and labled correctly, following all the weird rules for shipping dangerous good overseas, but someone in my local customs office had decided to be picky about that... dammit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi @3D-vice yes the coolest City in the world for now ;-).. 600 km ? so i suggest London?


Yes they are and very nice and helpful. They offered me the larger battery with the Controller for free but i didnt want to fully pack the package..

I will let you know and happy to send you the conversation with Wendy..





  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, Senaj said:

hi @3D-vice yes the coolest City in the world for now ;-).. 600 km ? so i suggest London?

Nope, I'm German too and I live in Ludwigshafen.

[translation mode on] Ludwigshafen am Rhein, um genau zu sein. Ich bin aus der Pfalz, tiefster Süd-Westen). [translation mode off]

Edited by 3D-vice
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By Andi
      Hey folks that are patiently, or impatiently, awaiting a shipping notice or bike, please read this. Based on our experience with this since 2015, here is what you can expect:
      With COVID-19, unfortunately, the experience of recent years can no longer be applied. Containers have become a scarce commodity. The disaster with the EVER GIVEN has not made it better. With the significant impact on the global world market, things are piling up in front of the ports. Simple processes like getting to port, unloading containers and reloading have become much much more time consuming than it usually is. We are sorry about this because we know how painful it is to have to wait longer for your new great bike. We are also just owners. Because (as you know) we are a forum for owners from owners. We also want your bike (especially the new models) to arrive as soon as possible, but we have no influence on that. Please contact the manufacturer support for the latest information regarding your delivery.  But what we know for sure: the bikes are coming. even with all the covid impact. Thousands of bikes. I can feel the excitement, or maybe it's just me lol. But anyway I can feel the pressure building. We don't mind you posting your delivery notice, but please don't post your tracking number. Just black that part out, and you're good to go. You don't want anyone the be able to reroute your delivery to my house do you? Moderators will delete all posts we see with tracking numbers. If you have ordered or already got your Sondors eBike - please login or register and pin yourself to the member map: https://sondorsforum.com/membermap/
      Feel free to post your unpacked or still packed bike in this Gallery Section - We are looking forward to your pictures!
      The Sondors Owner Forum is a great place to share information about your Sondors eBike. We have many available resources here, that may have great value for you. Take your time and read everything carefully. I would love to see you as an new member on the Owners Forum! Questions? Feel free to ask!
    • By Andi
      Download print edition here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8KayVCg4zE4dGQyTWJTYk4wSkE/view?usp=sharing
      Congratulations on your Sondors electric bike purchase and thanks very much for helping bring this exciting eBike to the market.
      If you are not familiar with assembling bicycles then it is STRONGLY recommended that you take your Sondors electric bike to a local bike shop. Most shops will be able to assemble and make any necessary adjustments for your new bike for a small fee. That said, if you are familiar with bike assembly, please refer to the below as a preliminary guideline for the Sondors electric bike.
      NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY: (but not included with your bike):
      Extra Hand: Ideally 2 people are needed to help lift the bike out of carton and an extra hand can be useful to help secure the position of the bike for some assemblies – especially if you don’t have a bike mechanics stand/ or work station. 15mm open end wrench – Used to tighten the wheel nuts and attach the pedals to the cranks. Phillips Screw Driver (for attaching the reflectors to the bike wheels and the F/R reflectors on the Handle Bar and Seat Posts Optional: Wire/cable cutter to trim the front Brake cable shorter at the disc brake caliper arm lever) INCLUDED TOOLS:
      Set of 5 Allen Wrenches (6mm, 5mm, 4mm, 3mm, 2.5mm.
      A T25 Torx wrench (used for the screws that attach the disc brake to the wheel hubs). CARTON OPENING AND UNPACKING:
      With the carton in the upright position (as shown indicated by the up arrows) open the top of the box carefully avoiding the staples as they can be sharp. With the box flaps pulled back remove the Seat/Seat post assembly and the cardboard accessory box containing the Allen wrench set and the accessory items. Open and unpack the smaller cardboard Accessory box – Removing the pedals, battery charger, bag of fasteners, reflectors and Allen wrenches. With the help of another person, team lift the bike out of the box and position it where the packaging materials on the bike frame and fork can be removed. Carefully clip the 2 white zip tie connectors to release the larger cardboard box from the front wheel. This larger cardboard box contains the bikes battery. At this point please refer to the charging directions in the below for the process to start the initial conditioning charge for the battery so that it can be charging while the remainder of the bike is being assembled. Accessory Box Contents:
      Here is the full step-by-step video with individual videos linked below each of their sections below:
      BATTERY: Inside the larger rectangular cardboard box is the bike’s Lithium Ion battery. It is shipped in a protective bubble sleeve. Remove the battery from the sleeve and confirm the power switch on the black base of the battery is in the “OFF” position. IMPORTANT: The battery’s power switch should always be in the “OFF” position when the battery is being charged. It should be left in the “OFF” position when it is not being used for powering the bike. Never keep the battery power switch in the “ON” position when it is not being used to power the bike. The Battery is designed to be used only with the Sondors E-Bike and charging system. BATTERY CHARGER - IMPORTANT: Read the operating instruction that were shipped with the charging unit. Charger unit is intended for indoor use only.
      Within the smaller cardboard Accessory box (removed with the seat when the carton was opened) is the Battery Charger Transformer and power cord and instructional sheet. Remove them from the box and review the Operating instructions included with it.
      IMPORTANT: Insure the Battery’s power switch (rocker switch) at the base of the battery is in the “OFF” position for every charging cycle and that it remains “OFF” during the charging stage. The battery is never to be connected to the charging transformer with the power switch in the “ON” position as damage can occur.
      Connect the outlet power cord to the black rectangular battery transformer, matching the power cord end (opposite the wall outlet end) to the same shaped socket on the rectangular transformer.
      Connect the cylindrical end of the other cable on the transformer to the charging port on the base of the battery (opposite the rocker switch on the battery). To do this you will need to lift the rubber flap on the side of the battery’s base charging port. Always keep this flap covering the charging port when it is not being charged.
      After reconfirming the battery is in the “OFF” position you can put the charging plug into a grounded house hold outlet (100 to 240 VAC). It is advised to use a surge protector to plug into as an extra precaution.
      When initially plugged in the LED on the transformer will momentarily be Green. If the battery is not fully charged it will switch to Red color while the battery is being charged. The battery is fully charged when the Red LED changes back to the Green LED. It is important to fully charge the battery prior to use.
      When the battery is fully charged and the LED shows a constant Green color you may remove the transformer cord from the charging port on the battery base.
      Do not store your fully charged battery connected to the plugged-in charger as this can damage your battery.
      Clip the zip ties that hold the front wheel and the handle bar assembly to the fork and frame. Remove the protective cardboard tubing, plastic wrapping and foam sheeting from the bike and handle bar assembly.

      Prior to attaching the handle bars you need to position the fork and stem in the correct position. The fork has a slight angle away from the bike and the front brake is on the left side of the fork as seen by the bike operator when it is in the correct position.
      If it looks like the fork is angled back towards the rear of the bike and the front brake is on the bike operators right side, then the fork needs to be rotated 180 degrees so the fork is angle away from the rear of the bike and the front brake caliper unit is on the Left side when you are riding the bike.
      With the included Allen wrenches loosen the 3 Allen screws that hold the stem to the top of the fork.
      Position the stem with the face plate forward toward the front of the bike.
      Tighten the Stem on the top tube of the fork. There is a 5mm screw on the circular cap on the top of the stem. loosen this cap and the 2 Allen screws on the side of the handle bar stem shaft.
      Using the 4mm wrench remove all 4 forward facing screws and the face plate from the stem.
      Center the handle bars (L/R) on the stem and rotate the bar into a position where the brake angle seems comfortable to you.
      Reattach the stem face plate using the 4mm allen screws.
      IMPORTANT: The thumb throttle will be on the bike riders Right side and the front disc brake will be on the bike riders left side of the fork when both Fork and Stem/Bars are in the correct position.
      Tighten the grips and the brake lever units using the Allen Keys. The allen bolts for brake lever units and the handle grips on the on the under side of handle bar. Tighten the Thumb Throttle Allen screw also.
      Loosen the yellow circular Stem Cap with the 5mm Allen wrench.
      Loosen the 2 screws on the sides of the stem.
      Standing with your legs straddling the front wheel and looking towards the handle bars align the handle bars and stem with the front wheel.
      Once wheel/stem/bar alignment is achieved, tighten the top stem cap (5mm) and the 2 side 4mm Allen Screws found on the stem post to secure it on the upper tube of the fork.
      IMPORTANT: A 15mm open ended wrench is needed to tighten the wheel nuts.
      Rotate the front axle nuts until they are approx half way off the threaded axle. This will allow for any easier attachment to the front fork.
      Carefully place the front wheel in the front fork drop out slots so the wheels’ brake disc aligns with disc brake unit. The break unit is on the left side of the bike rider when it is in the correct position.
      Alternate tightening the Left side and Right side nuts onto the fork tabs so as to keep the wheel centered on the fork and the wheels disc aligned in the brake calipers.
      Finish tightening the wheel nuts using the 15mm wrench.
      Loosen the 5mm nut on the cable stop at the front brake activation arm. Push about an inch of slack upward the Bike riders Left lever.
      Pull back the lever allowing the ferrel basket to swing out.
      Using the created slack from loosing the cable clamp, take the end of the cable with the cylindrical ferrel and place the ferrel in the basket on the brake lever and swing the basket into the brake lever housing while pulling the cable through the slot in the front of the lever housing.
      Then tuck the cable along the front slot in the Brake Levers and place the end of the cable jacket into the silver tube at the edge of the brake cable.
      Rotate the silver collar on the slotted tube to lock the cable into place.
      On the front brake caliper, pull the created slack out of cable and tighten it down with the 5mm Allen wrench to secure the brake cable on the brake actuator arm.
      Please refer to the manufactures web site for details on the proper adjustment of the TekTro disc Brake systems.
      CABLE MANAGEMENT - IMPORTANT: The throttle controller is designed to cut the power to the motor if the brake is applied. It is critical to keep the cables in their proper place and away from the brake levers to insure the proper function of the bike.
      Use the small black plastic clips on the cables to secure the cables in place to insure the cables are not causing the throttle controller to stop the power flow to the motor.
      Refer to the video update for clip positions.
      Cable Management for Front Handlebars

      IMPORTANT: You will need a 15mm wrench (not included) to tighten the pedals onto the crank arms.
      IMPORTANT: The pedals are marked on the threaded end with “L” and “R”.
      The pedal marked with an “R” on the threaded end is to be attached to the bike riders Right pedal crank arm. “L” is marked on the end of the riders left pedal. Please note it is easier to thread the pedal onto the crank when it is in the higher position.
      The Right pedal will be rotated clockwise to tighten onto the crank arms and the Left pedal gets rotated counterclockwise onto the crank to attach and tighten.
      Tighten both pedals with the 15mm open ended wrench.
      SEAT (Assembly) ATTACHMENT: (Watch video for red reflector attachment directions)
      Remove the cardboard and packing materials the seat.
      Open the yellow anodized lever slide the seat post into the seat tube.
      Position seat for the riders comfort and rotate the seat so it is centered over the frame.
      Tighten the seat clamp back down by moving the lever back to the closed position. The knurled nob on the side opposite the lever may need to be rotated clockwise a small amount to insure the clamp is tight on the seat post.
      On the Left side of the bike, open the battery door by locating the latching toggle bolt on the upper right hand corner of the house. Rotate the toggle counter clockwise to loosen it and open the battery box door.
      IMPORTANT: Battery Holder Keys.- the keys zipped tied to the silver throttle controller in the battery box are needed to attach and release the battery from the battery holder on the bike. Do not loose these. Carefully clip the plastic zip tie and place a key in the left side upper slot of the battery holder.
      With the Battery’s power switch in the “OFF” position, align base of the charged battery into the battery holder and pivot it down and into the holder into the holder until it rests with the top of the battery just off the holder. This is a snug fit but it is easier with each additional effort.
      Rotate the key at the top of the holder while pressing down on the battery to lock the battery into position on the bike.
      Battery Charged on the Bike – closed battery box door:
      The battery can be charged on the bike. Remove the circular caps on both sides of the battery box Bike throttle at handle bars should be powered off. Confirm the battery’s power switch on the battery base is in the “OFF” position (rocked towards the rear of the bike). Flip small rubber flap off the charging port. Connect outlet power cord to the battery charging transformer. Connect the battery charging cylindrical end cable end to the charging port on the battery base. Connect the power cord to grounded household outlet. Ideally the transformer will be plugged into a surge protected outlet or surge protected power strip. LED on transformer will momentarily show green then switch to Red until the battery is fully charged.
      When light shows steady green on the battery transformer the battery is fully charged and ready for your next ride. Remove charger cable from battery base and store charger unit according to the instructions shipped with the battery.  
      Battery Charged on the Bike – Battery box door left open.
      Same process as charging through the left side circular cap opening but with the battery door open instead of just the small cap. Throttle on handle bars must be powered “OFF” Battery must be placed in “OFF” position. Confirm by feeling through the riders right side circular opening that the switch is rocked back towards the rear tire.  
      Powering Up of E-Bike:
      The bike is powered up by removing the circular rubber cap near the bottom of the riders Right hand side. Turn on the battery by rocking the battery power switch to the forward “ON” position. Replace the cap onto the battery box. Turn on the throttle controller on the right side of the handle bars by pressing the grey switch to the throttle once. With a fully charged battery attached installed all 3 of the LED’s will illuminate on the throttle control when it is powered on.  
      Powering Down of E-Bike:
      The bike is powered down by reversing the ‘power up’ steps. Thumb Throttle on right side of handle bars is shut off by pressing the grey button once. The LED lights on the throttle unit will shut off.
      Battery is powered down by moving the rocker switch on the battery base to “OFF” position. Do not store you E-Bike in the “ON” position.  
      Attachment of Reflector accessories to the Bike:
      Please refer to the video for reflector assembly details. 
    • By Duong Ly
      Anyone has a suggestion for a cheap suspension that will fit a Sondors X?
    • By SportFoldBoy420
      My lcd has just died on my Fold sport from water damage I'm quite sure so this is my perfect opportunity to upgrade I have been looking at the 750w bafang rear hub motor and they say it will lace in 350w motor no problem but I have the 250w bafang rear hub motor. Will it fit? But first I want too upgrade the sondors lcd to the ktc3 25 amp and 25 amp controller and will wait till sondors have the 48v 14 amp available in Europe  until i upgrade the motor as the 38v 8.8amp battery won't be powerful enough. Any suggestions or problems with my plan I would appreciate feed back
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.