Jump to content

Power Upgrades & Accessories


Recommended Posts


Got more sellers? Feel free to post them :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just installed the Velomobile Shop LCD and upgraded controller on my Sondors this evening and can attest that it works and is quite lovely. I didn't really do much changing to the settings, as I like the top speed and PAS level as they are. But being ready for upgrades in battery etc = good.

Thanks for the list, next is a faster charger and then a bigger battery for this guy!


Velomobile has this trianglular 48v 20.3AH triangle lithium in stock for $549 USD:


It claims to triple range.

The Lunacycle "bottle" battery replacement is 36v 13.6AH and fits the stock battery carriage and runs $324, offering a claimed 50% increase in range.


And then there's their Luna Storm pack which is available in two flavors for $560 USD. I'm not sure what it brings to the picture beyond lots more capacity and speed.


And then they have their 52v Samsung INR 18650 52V 12.5AH battery pack, $460 USD. It also appears to part rivers and remove hair with its performance. Not sure what it brings to the party ultimately. But its there for the power hungry


I am ok with spending that kind of money if my controller can handle it and if it truly brings me a huge increase in range. I don't care about going 25-40MPH, I want to go 20MPH for 3-5x the length or use PAS mode and get 100+ miles on a charge.

Certainly tempting but I believe many of these minus the bottle battery require a hot rodded controller and special chargers.

If anyone has input on these, I think I and others would appreciate it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone done any testing of what signal is being sent or not sent from the upgraded controllers headlamp/brake light plug? It has 2 pins in it, so one can assume it's probably just sending basic info over this, either an off/on or resistance change to tell something in the lamp/brake to come on.

I was considering putting a voltage tester on mine to see if its completing a circuit, sending voltage one way or the other, or changing resistance, etc so I could figure out how to wire a light/brake controller to it without buying a custom made one.

IMG_4007 2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
12 minutes ago, Crasslee said:

Hey Andi. I joined a few days ago. Had a look here, as you suggested. Who's selling a replacement battery (hopefully better than stock) to Europe?


Hey Lee, 

here is the replacement battery, as promised: 

36v 13.6ah Panasonic Bottle Battery Sondors Compatible Upgrade / Replacement

30$ fixed shipping cost & its better then stock.

- Andi 


Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Crasslee said:

Ah, I already tried Luna Cycle. They emailed me a couple of days ago to inform me they can't ship batteries outside of the US. Any other ideas?

Thanks. Lee.

Oh, I'm sorry. 
Wendy can ship to Europe. So here is the battery from her


  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Crasslee have you tried Velomobileshop.com? If you are using PAS 2-3, you are really going to want to go up to a 36v or 48v battery, and replace the stock controller for sure if you haven't already. A 36v should give you more then 20 maybe even 30 miles at PAS 2-3 with the stock motor depending on the wind and hills I'd say since it's about 3x more battery.

Their batteries come from China so I don't see why they'd have an issue shipping to you since they are international. Kyle's a good guy and a fan of the bike, so he carries stuff he thinks us users will use and uses himself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I've bought from them before. Unfortunately the only battery they stock at the moment, is that big 48v/20ah monster. Although at $589, it's a little out of my price range. I am looking to upgrade my controller. So I'll get one of theirs. Will a better controller get a little better performance out of my original 36v/8.8ah battery?

I recently managed to pick up that rack you recommend, for just $25 here in the UK. I'd been after something comparable over here for a while. So thanks for that.


Edited by Crasslee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, Crasslee said:

Yeah, I've bought from them before. Unfortunately the only battery they stock at the moment, is that big 48v/20ah monster. Although at $589, it's a little out of my price range. I am looking to upgrade my controller. So I'll get one of theirs. Will a better controller get a little better performance out of my original 36v/8.8ah battery?

Check the site recently? Kyle added the 36v/20ah (plus the 48v/20ah and 30ah) triangle battery for me last week and has them in the China warehouse now. Still pricey but if you are doing PAS 2-3, it's a must have to get good mileage. I got the 36v with their upgraded controller to get 30-40 miles on throttle and 75-90 PAS (Im hoping for this but honestly expecting a tad less just to be realistic.).

Glad the rack is working for you, I wrote the company to let them know it fits the Sondors and we are all liking it, they were going to make note of that for sales purposes too I think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice dude. I'd been on their site today. But was looking for a bottle battery, not the triangle one. Although I might wait, and save up for that 48v monster. Actually I literally just ordered the 36/48 20amp controller. Hopefully that'll help a little, until I can upgrade the battery. I think one of the reasons I get less range is my weight. I'm approximately 220lbs. I know that's gotta make a difference.

Yeah, I was really happy to spot that rack on here. All of the ones I'd seen that would fit here in the UK, were $140 plus. So you saved me some money to invest on power upgrades ?

Thanks again. Lee

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I honestly don't think there is a bottle battery that goes behind the upgraded Panasonic 36v/13.6ah battery. I think that is as much as they can pack into the bottle form factor. And to be honest I would not be surprised if the mounting harness melted if you did anything higher, especially using PAS higher levels and throttle. I've heard of people with the stock battery melting the battery connectors using a lot of throttle and high PAS settings for hills

An upgraded controller and maybe a 500w motor would also help some but you'll need more battery. Some people buy extra batteries and carry one or two extra to plug in for more range. Others go with the bigger battery, etc.

Another option to consider is changing your gearing to a 3-speed to have more pedal capability. You can put a hill and top speed gear in place in any combo to fit your riding style and use your "human battery" to power the bike a bit and reduce battery usage some. Or you can re-gear it to fit your riding speed.

Have you tried changing the settings for PAS and the cadence sensor to see if you can eek out a little more juice at your chosen PAS settings?

As far as weight goes, I was once 250lbs. So I feel you on that. Don't let that be your focus, the hills, wind, temperature and everything else all affect the speed and range. So, there are lots of people who are anywhere from 130-350lbs riding these babies. Just figure out what works for you battery/motor/controller and adapt and enjoy the ride. And, if it counts, every time you pedal, some of that 220lbs is going to slowly melt away. Who knows, by end of summer you may be telling us you are 210-200, or less. :D


  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I just ordered the 48V(36V) 750w Bafang threaded motor. My hope is to see if the guts/gears fit in the stock motor's housing and work, and if not, to do a proper relacing to put the motor in. I got it from eBay since I couldn't find any of the usual shops with one in stock, or I'd link to it. I don't want to do that until I get it and am sure it's good before linking for everyone.

I'll do a full separate thread on my swap or re-lace experience with it. My new battery should run it, just won't use it's full potential. I almost went with the 500 but I've read that the 350 is very close to the 500 and is actually just pushed towards the 500's capabilities anyway. Which jives with the data my Wendy LCD tells me when I throttle full and see over 500w going to the motor.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1.3.2016 at 2:30 PM, Andi said:

Thanks Andi for the link! I also had tried LunaCycle before and I can confirm that they do not send internationally, unfortunately. Good to see the Panasonic high-capacity bottle battery is available through AliExpress.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For those interested, here are photos of what you get from Velomobile's Shop when you get one of their triangle batteries. This is a 36v/20ah upgrade, which comes with the charger and a wiring harness. The hardness itself plugs directly into the battery and then you have to connect it to the bike's controller's positive and negative. I'm going to go to Radio Shack and get something like the connector below to make removal easy and fool proof.

It's charging now and the charger's fan sounds like a jet engine. I have no idea how long it needs to charge but I'm going to wire and test tonight or tomorrow and then go for a proper full ride as soon as the weather is better.

According to the specs, I should get 2.5x more mileage from this vs the stock battery.

I also have yet another controller of the 25a variety here to install at some point as well. I am hoping to get a second larger 48/30 battery to put it to use, and when my new motor arrives I expect I'll be able to batter take advantage of the new controller and battery.


none of the images will display





Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's duct taped. Which is not uncommon. The others I've seen are shrink wrapped usually poorly. This one was taped with great care and is super solid.

Inside are 90 or so Panasonic 18650 batteries wired in a mix of parallel and series plus a BMS circuit to protect the battery and keep it from discharging too far etc. Kyle says its rated for over 700 cycles. 4 hours to charge from dead.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Battery works great! I used the connectors for power/ground from the stock controller. Removed the old battery mount and put gorilla tape over the hole, taped all the wires out of the way and the battery sits snugly into the compartment. It performs identically to the stock battery except for 2.5x battery life.

Before the swap, I maxed out the speed limit and then held the back end up and just let the wheel run at max speed. It hit 27.7 MPH, so that is the very top speed it can go with stock battery and LCD/controller to unlock the 18-20MPH limit. Same with the new battery since its still just 36v. When my 750w motor arrives I'll be able to see what it can do and compare.

Riding in real life with my weight and the bikes weight, wind, hills etc, I averaged 18-23MPH, a top speed of just over 24.3MPH, and lowest was 12-14 on a hilly windy stretch. I ran a 8 (ish) mile run all throttle maxed out as much as I could except for lights and tight turns and it was awesome. Im going to put the 25A controller on this coming weekend and re-arrange and get the battery situated more safely.

After my 8 miles all throttle no pedaling, the LCD display was just missing 1 bar and that didn't disappear until on the way back. If i were to do the purchase again, I would probably spring for the extra few bucks for the 48/30 battery, but I'm very happy with the purchase.

And I can sell the stock battery/key/harness and get a little $$$ back to help fund a 48/30 battery. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I bought the 48v triangle battery from velomobileshop. incl the display and controller. They did ship to Europe (Holland) Now i was wondering, (I still have to receive the package), will this battery destroy my sondors stock motor? because the motor is 36v and the battery 48v

And question 2, where is the best place to buy a 48v motor? for me living in the eu ?


Link to comment
Share on other sites

@edwin - According to Kyle from Velomobile, he runs that very setup on his (48/30 + 25a controller) on the stock motor with no problems.

Keep in mind that these motors are rated at a wattage that is well below what they are capable of. It's usually what they can handle safely but just below, to be on the safe side.  Like the EU models are running "250w" motors which are really just lower rated 350w motors typically. And the 350w's have been tested to 500w with no problems, if you put an LCD on yours, you will see that using the throttle actually sends over 500w to the motor on the stock battery and upgraded 20A controller as well at peak, I believe around 552w. If you ran this constant, and ran it uphill against the wind (there's a joke in there somewhere), yes you might burn out your motor. But you would do the very same thing on stock battery and controller constant uphill against the wind for an extended period as well depending on rider and bike weight.

The 350w Bafang (8Fun) is rated at 36 and 48 volts. And many of their motors are actually spec rated from like 250-500watts. I believe our stock model is technically rated 250-750. But the "spec" is 350 because that is the safe zone for max life.

By their specs, even the 750 is barely different in its specs from the 350, but they dont go into temps and cooling which are usually the killer of motors.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is my 36v/20ah battery and 25A controller mounted. I am using velcro to keep the battery from wobbling with a very thin layer of padding taped on the bottom over the gap where the frame is visible. There's gorilla tape over that.

The wires are all run out the way along the top to the controller and taped/ziptied, and the controller is setting in a little nest of foam with Gorilla tape and velcro to keep it in place but make it easy to remove.

The battery is resting against a piece of foam with Gorilla tape where it touches the controller as well. I am going to make a simple L bracket that will use the bolt holes on the frame to stop it from sliding down to the controller this week and that will have foam padding on it as well, then I'll remove the tapered foam pad that is there now. I also plan on replacing the 2 hex bolts behind (to the right in the photos) the controller with something flat headed so I can velcro the controller to the frame and remove the padding foam to make more room for it to breathe.

I've taped off the "on switch" plug on the right side of the bike and the one on the left will be taped or possibly turned into a vent for the cooling system. For that, I've got a small DC fan that is going into the box to pull air through the whole box to keep it from overheating in the summer. It will just pull air out of the hole at the very top front where the wires pass through to the handlebars, using the other holes in the box as inputs for the air.

The main wiring harness will also be taped or ziptied down once I get the above work done.



  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

alienmeatsack, thanks for your information. Meanwhile  Kyle from Velomobile informed me that he tried to kill the stock motor with the battery, but he did not managed to. So i am much more confident now. 

I'll just have to wait for it to arrive..


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By Andi
      Hey folks that are patiently, or impatiently, awaiting a shipping notice or bike, please read this. Based on our experience with this since 2015, here is what you can expect:
      With COVID-19, unfortunately, the experience of recent years can no longer be applied. Containers have become a scarce commodity. The disaster with the EVER GIVEN has not made it better. With the significant impact on the global world market, things are piling up in front of the ports. Simple processes like getting to port, unloading containers and reloading have become much much more time consuming than it usually is. We are sorry about this because we know how painful it is to have to wait longer for your new great bike. We are also just owners. Because (as you know) we are a forum for owners from owners. We also want your bike (especially the new models) to arrive as soon as possible, but we have no influence on that. Please contact the manufacturer support for the latest information regarding your delivery.  But what we know for sure: the bikes are coming. even with all the covid impact. Thousands of bikes. I can feel the excitement, or maybe it's just me lol. But anyway I can feel the pressure building. We don't mind you posting your delivery notice, but please don't post your tracking number. Just black that part out, and you're good to go. You don't want anyone the be able to reroute your delivery to my house do you? Moderators will delete all posts we see with tracking numbers. If you have ordered or already got your Sondors eBike - please login or register and pin yourself to the member map: https://sondorsforum.com/membermap/
      Feel free to post your unpacked or still packed bike in this Gallery Section - We are looking forward to your pictures!
      The Sondors Owner Forum is a great place to share information about your Sondors eBike. We have many available resources here, that may have great value for you. Take your time and read everything carefully. I would love to see you as an new member on the Owners Forum! Questions? Feel free to ask!
    • By Andi
      Download print edition here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8KayVCg4zE4dGQyTWJTYk4wSkE/view?usp=sharing
      Congratulations on your Sondors electric bike purchase and thanks very much for helping bring this exciting eBike to the market.
      If you are not familiar with assembling bicycles then it is STRONGLY recommended that you take your Sondors electric bike to a local bike shop. Most shops will be able to assemble and make any necessary adjustments for your new bike for a small fee. That said, if you are familiar with bike assembly, please refer to the below as a preliminary guideline for the Sondors electric bike.
      NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY: (but not included with your bike):
      Extra Hand: Ideally 2 people are needed to help lift the bike out of carton and an extra hand can be useful to help secure the position of the bike for some assemblies – especially if you don’t have a bike mechanics stand/ or work station. 15mm open end wrench – Used to tighten the wheel nuts and attach the pedals to the cranks. Phillips Screw Driver (for attaching the reflectors to the bike wheels and the F/R reflectors on the Handle Bar and Seat Posts Optional: Wire/cable cutter to trim the front Brake cable shorter at the disc brake caliper arm lever) INCLUDED TOOLS:
      Set of 5 Allen Wrenches (6mm, 5mm, 4mm, 3mm, 2.5mm.
      A T25 Torx wrench (used for the screws that attach the disc brake to the wheel hubs). CARTON OPENING AND UNPACKING:
      With the carton in the upright position (as shown indicated by the up arrows) open the top of the box carefully avoiding the staples as they can be sharp. With the box flaps pulled back remove the Seat/Seat post assembly and the cardboard accessory box containing the Allen wrench set and the accessory items. Open and unpack the smaller cardboard Accessory box – Removing the pedals, battery charger, bag of fasteners, reflectors and Allen wrenches. With the help of another person, team lift the bike out of the box and position it where the packaging materials on the bike frame and fork can be removed. Carefully clip the 2 white zip tie connectors to release the larger cardboard box from the front wheel. This larger cardboard box contains the bikes battery. At this point please refer to the charging directions in the below for the process to start the initial conditioning charge for the battery so that it can be charging while the remainder of the bike is being assembled. Accessory Box Contents:
      Here is the full step-by-step video with individual videos linked below each of their sections below:
      BATTERY: Inside the larger rectangular cardboard box is the bike’s Lithium Ion battery. It is shipped in a protective bubble sleeve. Remove the battery from the sleeve and confirm the power switch on the black base of the battery is in the “OFF” position. IMPORTANT: The battery’s power switch should always be in the “OFF” position when the battery is being charged. It should be left in the “OFF” position when it is not being used for powering the bike. Never keep the battery power switch in the “ON” position when it is not being used to power the bike. The Battery is designed to be used only with the Sondors E-Bike and charging system. BATTERY CHARGER - IMPORTANT: Read the operating instruction that were shipped with the charging unit. Charger unit is intended for indoor use only.
      Within the smaller cardboard Accessory box (removed with the seat when the carton was opened) is the Battery Charger Transformer and power cord and instructional sheet. Remove them from the box and review the Operating instructions included with it.
      IMPORTANT: Insure the Battery’s power switch (rocker switch) at the base of the battery is in the “OFF” position for every charging cycle and that it remains “OFF” during the charging stage. The battery is never to be connected to the charging transformer with the power switch in the “ON” position as damage can occur.
      Connect the outlet power cord to the black rectangular battery transformer, matching the power cord end (opposite the wall outlet end) to the same shaped socket on the rectangular transformer.
      Connect the cylindrical end of the other cable on the transformer to the charging port on the base of the battery (opposite the rocker switch on the battery). To do this you will need to lift the rubber flap on the side of the battery’s base charging port. Always keep this flap covering the charging port when it is not being charged.
      After reconfirming the battery is in the “OFF” position you can put the charging plug into a grounded house hold outlet (100 to 240 VAC). It is advised to use a surge protector to plug into as an extra precaution.
      When initially plugged in the LED on the transformer will momentarily be Green. If the battery is not fully charged it will switch to Red color while the battery is being charged. The battery is fully charged when the Red LED changes back to the Green LED. It is important to fully charge the battery prior to use.
      When the battery is fully charged and the LED shows a constant Green color you may remove the transformer cord from the charging port on the battery base.
      Do not store your fully charged battery connected to the plugged-in charger as this can damage your battery.
      Clip the zip ties that hold the front wheel and the handle bar assembly to the fork and frame. Remove the protective cardboard tubing, plastic wrapping and foam sheeting from the bike and handle bar assembly.

      Prior to attaching the handle bars you need to position the fork and stem in the correct position. The fork has a slight angle away from the bike and the front brake is on the left side of the fork as seen by the bike operator when it is in the correct position.
      If it looks like the fork is angled back towards the rear of the bike and the front brake is on the bike operators right side, then the fork needs to be rotated 180 degrees so the fork is angle away from the rear of the bike and the front brake caliper unit is on the Left side when you are riding the bike.
      With the included Allen wrenches loosen the 3 Allen screws that hold the stem to the top of the fork.
      Position the stem with the face plate forward toward the front of the bike.
      Tighten the Stem on the top tube of the fork. There is a 5mm screw on the circular cap on the top of the stem. loosen this cap and the 2 Allen screws on the side of the handle bar stem shaft.
      Using the 4mm wrench remove all 4 forward facing screws and the face plate from the stem.
      Center the handle bars (L/R) on the stem and rotate the bar into a position where the brake angle seems comfortable to you.
      Reattach the stem face plate using the 4mm allen screws.
      IMPORTANT: The thumb throttle will be on the bike riders Right side and the front disc brake will be on the bike riders left side of the fork when both Fork and Stem/Bars are in the correct position.
      Tighten the grips and the brake lever units using the Allen Keys. The allen bolts for brake lever units and the handle grips on the on the under side of handle bar. Tighten the Thumb Throttle Allen screw also.
      Loosen the yellow circular Stem Cap with the 5mm Allen wrench.
      Loosen the 2 screws on the sides of the stem.
      Standing with your legs straddling the front wheel and looking towards the handle bars align the handle bars and stem with the front wheel.
      Once wheel/stem/bar alignment is achieved, tighten the top stem cap (5mm) and the 2 side 4mm Allen Screws found on the stem post to secure it on the upper tube of the fork.
      IMPORTANT: A 15mm open ended wrench is needed to tighten the wheel nuts.
      Rotate the front axle nuts until they are approx half way off the threaded axle. This will allow for any easier attachment to the front fork.
      Carefully place the front wheel in the front fork drop out slots so the wheels’ brake disc aligns with disc brake unit. The break unit is on the left side of the bike rider when it is in the correct position.
      Alternate tightening the Left side and Right side nuts onto the fork tabs so as to keep the wheel centered on the fork and the wheels disc aligned in the brake calipers.
      Finish tightening the wheel nuts using the 15mm wrench.
      Loosen the 5mm nut on the cable stop at the front brake activation arm. Push about an inch of slack upward the Bike riders Left lever.
      Pull back the lever allowing the ferrel basket to swing out.
      Using the created slack from loosing the cable clamp, take the end of the cable with the cylindrical ferrel and place the ferrel in the basket on the brake lever and swing the basket into the brake lever housing while pulling the cable through the slot in the front of the lever housing.
      Then tuck the cable along the front slot in the Brake Levers and place the end of the cable jacket into the silver tube at the edge of the brake cable.
      Rotate the silver collar on the slotted tube to lock the cable into place.
      On the front brake caliper, pull the created slack out of cable and tighten it down with the 5mm Allen wrench to secure the brake cable on the brake actuator arm.
      Please refer to the manufactures web site for details on the proper adjustment of the TekTro disc Brake systems.
      CABLE MANAGEMENT - IMPORTANT: The throttle controller is designed to cut the power to the motor if the brake is applied. It is critical to keep the cables in their proper place and away from the brake levers to insure the proper function of the bike.
      Use the small black plastic clips on the cables to secure the cables in place to insure the cables are not causing the throttle controller to stop the power flow to the motor.
      Refer to the video update for clip positions.
      Cable Management for Front Handlebars

      IMPORTANT: You will need a 15mm wrench (not included) to tighten the pedals onto the crank arms.
      IMPORTANT: The pedals are marked on the threaded end with “L” and “R”.
      The pedal marked with an “R” on the threaded end is to be attached to the bike riders Right pedal crank arm. “L” is marked on the end of the riders left pedal. Please note it is easier to thread the pedal onto the crank when it is in the higher position.
      The Right pedal will be rotated clockwise to tighten onto the crank arms and the Left pedal gets rotated counterclockwise onto the crank to attach and tighten.
      Tighten both pedals with the 15mm open ended wrench.
      SEAT (Assembly) ATTACHMENT: (Watch video for red reflector attachment directions)
      Remove the cardboard and packing materials the seat.
      Open the yellow anodized lever slide the seat post into the seat tube.
      Position seat for the riders comfort and rotate the seat so it is centered over the frame.
      Tighten the seat clamp back down by moving the lever back to the closed position. The knurled nob on the side opposite the lever may need to be rotated clockwise a small amount to insure the clamp is tight on the seat post.
      On the Left side of the bike, open the battery door by locating the latching toggle bolt on the upper right hand corner of the house. Rotate the toggle counter clockwise to loosen it and open the battery box door.
      IMPORTANT: Battery Holder Keys.- the keys zipped tied to the silver throttle controller in the battery box are needed to attach and release the battery from the battery holder on the bike. Do not loose these. Carefully clip the plastic zip tie and place a key in the left side upper slot of the battery holder.
      With the Battery’s power switch in the “OFF” position, align base of the charged battery into the battery holder and pivot it down and into the holder into the holder until it rests with the top of the battery just off the holder. This is a snug fit but it is easier with each additional effort.
      Rotate the key at the top of the holder while pressing down on the battery to lock the battery into position on the bike.
      Battery Charged on the Bike – closed battery box door:
      The battery can be charged on the bike. Remove the circular caps on both sides of the battery box Bike throttle at handle bars should be powered off. Confirm the battery’s power switch on the battery base is in the “OFF” position (rocked towards the rear of the bike). Flip small rubber flap off the charging port. Connect outlet power cord to the battery charging transformer. Connect the battery charging cylindrical end cable end to the charging port on the battery base. Connect the power cord to grounded household outlet. Ideally the transformer will be plugged into a surge protected outlet or surge protected power strip. LED on transformer will momentarily show green then switch to Red until the battery is fully charged.
      When light shows steady green on the battery transformer the battery is fully charged and ready for your next ride. Remove charger cable from battery base and store charger unit according to the instructions shipped with the battery.  
      Battery Charged on the Bike – Battery box door left open.
      Same process as charging through the left side circular cap opening but with the battery door open instead of just the small cap. Throttle on handle bars must be powered “OFF” Battery must be placed in “OFF” position. Confirm by feeling through the riders right side circular opening that the switch is rocked back towards the rear tire.  
      Powering Up of E-Bike:
      The bike is powered up by removing the circular rubber cap near the bottom of the riders Right hand side. Turn on the battery by rocking the battery power switch to the forward “ON” position. Replace the cap onto the battery box. Turn on the throttle controller on the right side of the handle bars by pressing the grey switch to the throttle once. With a fully charged battery attached installed all 3 of the LED’s will illuminate on the throttle control when it is powered on.  
      Powering Down of E-Bike:
      The bike is powered down by reversing the ‘power up’ steps. Thumb Throttle on right side of handle bars is shut off by pressing the grey button once. The LED lights on the throttle unit will shut off.
      Battery is powered down by moving the rocker switch on the battery base to “OFF” position. Do not store you E-Bike in the “ON” position.  
      Attachment of Reflector accessories to the Bike:
      Please refer to the video for reflector assembly details. 
    • By Duong Ly
      Anyone has a suggestion for a cheap suspension that will fit a Sondors X?
    • By SportFoldBoy420
      My lcd has just died on my Fold sport from water damage I'm quite sure so this is my perfect opportunity to upgrade I have been looking at the 750w bafang rear hub motor and they say it will lace in 350w motor no problem but I have the 250w bafang rear hub motor. Will it fit? But first I want too upgrade the sondors lcd to the ktc3 25 amp and 25 amp controller and will wait till sondors have the 48v 14 amp available in Europe  until i upgrade the motor as the 38v 8.8amp battery won't be powerful enough. Any suggestions or problems with my plan I would appreciate feed back
  • Popular Now

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.