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  1. Hey folks that are patiently, or impatiently, awaiting a shipping notice or bike, please read this. Based on our experience with this in 2015, here is what you can expect: As containers arrive in LA, UPS take possession and gets them processed through customs. There are hundreds of bikes per container, and probably a dozen containers. As each container is opened, UPS will mark them as received and you may get a notice with an expected delivery date (either from UPS or Sondors). This does not necessarily mean that it is on a truck yet or has left the facility The bikes are shipped by truck, not air. Once it leaves LA you may not get any update for days as the truck works it's way to your regional or local hub where it will be offloaded and scanned again. Not getting an update for a few days is normal. You will sometimes get a planned delivery notice once it gets to your local UPS. However, sometimes it just shows on your doorstep. Sometimes it shows up on your doorstep when the tracking shows that it's still in LA. It's quite inconsistent, and nobody should panic. If you get a notice, be patient. It can take more than 2 weeks to get to you depending on how fast they empty the containers and when they find space in a truck, how long the drive is, etc. Signing up for UPS My Choice might give you more info, but sometimes not. Whatever you do, don't start bombarding Sondors with emails about "where is my bike" yet. They have probably opened 1 of a dozen containers so far and are working through things over the next couple of weeks We all know there's a huge shipment of bikes coming. Thousands of bikes. I can feel the excitement, or maybe it's just me lol. But anyway I can feel the pressure building. We don't mind you posting your delivery notice, but please don't post your tracking number. Just black that part out, and you're good to go. You don't want anyone the be able to reroute your delivery to my house do you? Moderators will delete all posts we see with tracking numbers. If you have ordered or already got your Sondors eBike - please login or register and pin yourself to the member map: https://sondorsforum.com/membermap/ If you have not received your bike yet and still want a test ride or meet Storm Sondors? Check out this Event: Feel free to post your unpacked or still packed bike in this Gallery Section - We are looking forward to your pictures! https://sondorsforum.com/gallery/category/3-unboxed-show-us-your-sondors-ebike/ The Sondors Owner Forum is a great place to share information about your Sondors eBike. We have many available resources here, that may have great value for you. Take your time and read everything carefully. I would love to see you as an new member on the Owners Forum! Questions? Feel free to ask!
  2. Hello everyone, I currently have an Original Sondors Fat Tire bike from 2016 (I believe). I purchased it from a friend who had performed some upgrades to it. As the bike sits today: Luna Storm 48v 20ah Battery Controller Model KT36/48ZWSRMD-SLSLD02 Rated for DC 36v or 48v, Rated current 12A Maximum current 25+-1A (Assuming this is from Luna as well) Original Motor Bafang RMG06 36v 350W(10) 26-1-1508195560-6 LCD Luna LCD Dashboard for Sondors KT-LCD3 Took the bike out for a ride the other day after it had been sitting in the garage for about a month and received a motor hall connection error on my LCD screen. Tried the usual unplugging the connection under the chainstay and making sure I had charged the battery. I'm wondering if I am able to replace the cable coming out of my motor (if that is the culprit) or if I need to replace the motor altogether. If that is the case, would anyone recommend I upgrade to a 48v motor? Would it make a difference/ work with my existing upgrades? I'm new to the forum and Ebike scene in general so I appreciate any help. Thanks!
  3. FRONT TIRE: Remove tire, find puncture, Glue patch and repair inner tube. Remount tire All in less than 10 minutes and cost about a dollar. REMO Patch kit -Amazon at $3.99 Many repairs BACK TIRE REMOVAL:
  4. SONDORS X arrived on January 7, 2019. Living in Southwest Florida has made it easy for me to ride every other day. I am recovering from a bone on bone knee with a damaged medial collateral ligament. After a full year of daily PEMF treatments and two Prolotherapy injections, my Prolotherapy doctor recommended that I start exercising using a bicycle to stimulate the natural lubricant within my recovering knee joint. I started exercising with a standard road bike, but was not able to “Spin” with minimal effort as instructed. I own a 2010 electric recumbent trike, but is it is next to impossible to get in and out of a bike several inches off the ground. I recall seeing the SONDORS advertised several years ago and decided on the SONDORS “X”. I use the thumb switch to move the Fat Tire “X” up to 16+ miles per hour, then put the bike into 7th gear and move the pedal assist to Number 3, this allows me to Spin at the optimal level, without causing stress on my knees. I started with five minutes the first week and I have added five minutes per week, I am now at 20 minutes, and this technique has allowed me to build muscle riding it every other day. I have been able to move the pedal assist down to number 2, my goal is to ride on Fort Myers Beach after I have built enough muscle in my legs. My target for the beach is early March! My SONDORS X is a very well-built fat tire bike and has been the perfect platform for my recovery! I don’t see myself going back to my electric trike or the road bike, the sign on my front lawn, “BIKES FOR SALE” Thank you SONDORS! Al P.S., Super easy to accessorize
  5. I purchased the August 2018 run XS Fat and received in Jan 2019. The admin password for advanced settings is 1515.
  6. This information applies to all SONDORS eBikes shipped after December 2017: Here is the setup manual for the new SONDORS LCD - According to Storm this is the new model for all bikes shipping from now on. Users Manual-KD51C-KDS.pdf (you need to be logged in to access this file) Got the old LCD display? Check out this topic:
  7. My LCD3 display blanks out on occasion, the bike shuts down and I get a code 3 error come up on the screen. I have to turn everything off and then on for it to work again. Any help out there?
  8. Over the last several years SONDORS has evolved the electrical systems of their bikes from open/generic Bafang to several different proprietary set-ups. The purpose of this document is to briefly explain each generation of bike and explore the issue of parts compatibility for upgrades and repairs. The original "Original" (Generation 1) In 2015 the SONDORS e-bike was born after backers on crowd-funding site Indiegogo waited for up to half a year for the first $499 e-bike. There was only one bike, and it came in a few different color combinations. The bike was single speed and there was no LCD available until months later, and shipping was $174 extra. It used an 8.7Ah bottle battery and there were no extended batteries available except from third party vendors months later. All of the bikes used the standard 3-LED, 6 pin throttle still in use today on single speed bikes. Identification: These bikes are easily identified from a few visual clues: The words “e-bike” printed on the battery box under the original SONDORS logo (see pic) The etched controller serial number does NOT have the letter “U” at the end They came in only a few colors that were never produced again – Yellow with orange anodized aluminum wheels, Black with red wheels and printing, and Black with yellow wheels and printing Compatibility: These bikes used a generic controller, which makes them the only SONDORS bike where you can add an aftermarket generic LCD (like the KT-LCD3) without replacing the controller. It also easy takes a 20A or 25A controller upgrade, which again will work with the stock throttle and any aftermarket or SONDORS LCD (available later in the year) that works with the SONDORS controller. When SONDORS started shipping an LCD, it said SONDORS on it even though it used generic protocol. This is why you can’t tell what bike you have based on whether or not it says SONDORS on it. The Kickstarter Generation (Generation 2) Following a successful and disruptive IGG campaign, SONDORS did a follow-up campaign through Kickstarter. These bikes were mostly sold and distributed in 2016 and into early 2017, and came in a wide range of unique colors (Caribbean blue, gray, pink, and others), and new options. They still used the bottle battery, but you could now get an aluminum frame bike, an extended range battery, 4.0in tires, and even first-generation front shocks. They were still single speed, but they abandoned the generic controller for a proprietary one, which started the complicated path of compatibility. Identification: A lot of bikes fall into this generation, and again there are some visual clues No more “e-bike” printed on the battery box The etched controller serial number now contains the letter “U” at the end, signifying a new, proprietary controller. The bike will also have a bottle battery and not a newer triangle battery The bike on the right is a 2nd generation SONDORS fat bike with optional shocks, 4.0 inch tires, and an aftermarket black trim kit and Ibera RA5 rear rack. Compatibility: This is the beginning of SONDORS using a proprietary protocol for their controllers. If you have one of these bikes and want to keep the stock 15A controller, the only place you can get an LCD is from SONDORS. Your bike will run using an aftermarket LCD like the KT-LCD3, but the display will be wonky. It may not show speed, the PAS controls might not work, and the battery level display won’t be right. Most owners with these bikes wanting an LCD (it wasn’t included) choose to swap out their controllers for an aftermarket 20A or 25A version (around $55-$65) and add a generic LCD for around the same price. The 3-LED throttle works fine with these aftermarket controllers. Because these bikes have a 350W motor with the smaller plug, going above 25A will usually require a motor swap and usually an upgraded battery at no small cost. Many people do 48v or 52v upgrades using huge, aftermarket triangle batteries for higher top end speed and more range than the average butt can handle. The first SONDORS direct generation (Generation 3) This could actually be 2 or 3 generations with all of the changes happening, but from a compatibility standpoint I’ll lump them all together. Following the IGG and KS crowdfunding campaigns, SONDORS took ordering in-house. They started with a bike that looked just like the KS bikes but with some new colors (including red and royal blue) and also included a bottle battery. For ease, I’m going to include those bottle battery bikes sold direct into the Generation 2 bucket because technically they’re similar. However, as 2016 turned into 2017 SONDORS started introducing triangle batteries, gears, the Thin, Fold, and even the X bikes. This generation used the proprietary KT-LCD3 LCD with SONDORS printed on it, and maintained the proprietary 15A controller with the “U” in the serial number. However, this new controller now had different plugs for the new triangle and fold batteries which added some complexity. This is also when SONDORS introduced 7 speed bikes, which also introduced a proprietary 3 pin throttle. These 3 pin throttles look similar to the Bafang BBSHD throttle, BUT the pins are male instead of female. This is to keep owners from plugging the throttle into the PAS plug on the controller. These throttles are only available from SONDORS, although you can sometimes find them for sale by owners that have swapped theirs out. Identification: There are so many bikes that fall into this generation you are better off using process of elimination. If your bike has a bottle battery, it’s either Generation 1 or Generation 2. If your bike has a triangle battery AND a rectangular LCD based on the KT-LCD3, you fall into this generation. The picture on the right is a SONDORS-KT LCD3 LCD. Compatibility: This is where compatibility gets “fun”. Like with previous SONDORS bikes that are not “Generation 1”, aftermarket LCDs will not work with the stock 15A controller. The bike will run, but the display will be messed up. Here are some key points: If you want to keep the stock controller, you will need to get the replacement LCD from SONDORS If you want to upgrade your controller to 20A or 25A, you will need a new, aftermarket LCD. You can get the tried and true KT-LCD3, but one of the known vendors is now selling a compatible color LCD for around $20 more. If you upgrade the controller, you will need to get one with the correct battery connector, OR transplant the connector from your old controller to your new one. Most generic controllers are just 2 wire If you have a 7 speed bike, you will also need to replace the throttle if you upgrade the controller. This is because the aftermarket controllers use the 6 pin throttle and not the SONDORS 3 pin version If you need a new throttle for a single speed bike, you can get a generic 6 pin throttle from known vendors. If you need a new throttle for a 7 speed bike, you have only a couple of choices – buy one from SONDORS, or swap out the controller, LCD and throttle to something generic and not proprietary Another option is a brand new upgrade kit available form SONDORS. This includes an upgraded controller and color LCD for around $200. If you get the right kit the LCD will be set correctly and it will be compatible with the throttle Easy, right? Current mid-2018 Generation (Generation 4) In mid-2018 SONDORS switched out the controller and LCD for a new square version called the KD51C-KDS (aka KD51). This new display is completely different under the hood, and it’s gotten mixed reviews. People like that you can adjust PAS power levels, but many dislike that you can no longer see voltage on the display. All bikes during this generation were changed. They all still have triangle batteries, but the controllers and LCD for the “Original” (yes, the name is confusing), Thin, Fold, X, Sport and Mini are all changed. Identification: This one is easy. If you have a KD51 LCD, you have what we’re calling a Generation 4 bike. The picture on the right is the KD51. Compatibility: All of the compatibility notes from Generation 3 still apply, but it’s also important to note that none of the previous generation controllers are compatible with this LCD, and none of the previous generation LCDs (or generics) are compatible with the Generation 4 controller. You still need to be aware of the single speed versus 7 speed throttle compatibility with this new controller While Generation 2 and 3 LCDs and controllers are interchangeable with each other, neither are interchangeable with Generation 4 This is why many with LCD, controller or throttle issues choose to go towards generic again unless covered under warranty by SONDORS. Like with previous generations, SONDORS now sells an upgrade kit for around $200 that contains a new color LCD and either a 20A or 25A controller depending on the bike. These kits will also not be compatible with aftermarket parts, but it will maintain compatibility with your throttle if you get the right kit. November 2018 1.0.0 - Mike Ritchie
  9. Tires, Tubes, etc... http://www.bikeman.com/TR0360.html?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=GoogleBase&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=Cj0KCQiA8f_eBRDcARIsAEKwRGfKdElSYFEPPK7yZr15-lT0aEbSKQZhCgeZbrWwA5VHdowzBKr33GwaAllPEALw_wcB http://store.sondorsforum.com/collections/accessories https://www.fattirebikeparts.com/index.php/extreme-fat-tire-bike-parts-and-components-online-store/fat-tires-fat-tire-tubes-for-fat-tire-bikes/xtreme-patented-skull-pattern-fat-tires-detail http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PAK-Sunlite-Vee-Crusher-26-x-3-5-Wire-Bead-Fat-Bike-Tires-Black-fit-Speedster/371308581884 https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-Vee-Rubber-26x4-7-Mission-Command-Pair-Fat-Tires-Folding-Bead-Silica-Compound/320476468?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=10232&adid=22222222227144302754&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=t&wl3=253414499279&wl4=pla-416990220389&wl5=200623&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=117446822&wl11=online&wl12=320476468&wl13=&veh=sem http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222416140/1528/Vee-Tire-Co-Mission-Command.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o1&scid=scplp333222416140&sc_intid=333222416140&gclid=CjwKCAjwnLjVBRAdEiwAKSGPI3b8STHe_0gtM0A8M1T7OP6416l5nf3LxDu_3ys3U1S7Qu1H4b4A-BoC-BkQAvD_BwE Mr. Tuffy tire protectors http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR-TUFFY-XL-SERIES-Fat-Bike-3XL-26-29x3-1-4-0-Tire-Guard-Liner-Tan-Pair-/301842802164 Studded Tires http://www.aliexpress.com/item/26x4-9-Studded-Tyres-for-Chaoyang-for-sondors-ebike-fat-bike-tire/32597372847.html Fat Tire Rim Strips http://www.amazon.com/Fat-Bike-Rim-Strips-yellow/dp/B01AJFEB32/ http://store.sondorsforum.com/accessories/products/fat-bike-low-profile-street-tire?variant=5690083587 MAXXUS Mammoth Fat Tire http://www.ebay.com/itm/272084778558 VEE Rubber Tube 26"x4.00 (will also fit to 4.9) http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/vee-rubber-26x4-00-av-26-fat-bike-av-26x4-0
  10. I am unable to turn the battery key that came with my Sondor's. See the linked video. Would welcome advice on what might be wrong and/or how to remedy the situation. https://photos.app.goo.gl/skTzajQQiRNPdMDj8
  11. Both bikes have a 750w big magnet Bafang. The fatty's 750 is inside the stock 350 motor housing. Fatty has a 48v 30ah battery driving a 35 amp big momma 18 fet controller. The Fold started life as a Foldx7. I replaced the stock 20 x 80mm rims with more sporting 24" x 65mm rims laced to a 750 Lindsey motor, which slightly increases overall gearing over a stock Fold. That still leaves the overall gearing a lot less than the fatty so it's able to make due nicely with just a 25 amp controller, Both bike's lighting is powered off of the main battery.
  12. It's important to secure your Sondors THIN or Fat eBike, here are some Locks recommendations: Please note: Cable Locks are considered as unsafe, we already have stolen Sondors eBikes which were secured with a cable lock! The Club UTL800 Utility Lock The Club UTL800 Utility Lock is a part of The Club line of quality products by Winner International. Many Sondors Owners are using this particular Lock and recommend it. Buy now: on Amazon.com on ebay.com Abus Bordo BIG 6000 (Foldable Lock) The Bordo Folding locks feature a linked construction to provide maximum flexibility to secure to racks, fence posts, signs, etc. Compact design offers many frame mounting possibilities. Coating to prevent damage of the bicycle's paint - ABUS Premium cylinder for maximum picking protection. Buy now: on Amazon.com on ebay.com Kryptonite 999492 Black 14mm x 60" (1415) Extreme motorcycle and scooter security for the highest theft locations. 12mm six sided chain links made of 3t hardened manganese steel for maximum strength. Durable protective nylon cover with hook and loop fasteners to hold in place. Buy now: on Amazon.com Do you recommend or know another lock? Tell us!
  13. After upgrading the front crankset, rear freewheel, (53/17 final gear ratio), chain, LT48 battery, 20-amp controller and display the bike was a beast. Easily commuting to work at 26-27mph and hitting 28-29+ with a bit more effort. The issue was at those speeds in LA traffic I needed the ability to stop fast too. And re-adjusting my brakes every ~2-3 weeks was also getting annoying. The solution was new tires, hydraulic brakes, and Rotors. Here's what I got: -- Rotors: Shimano Deore RT66 180mm 6-Bolt Disc Rotor Brakes: PASION E BIKE MTB Hydraulic Disc Cut Off Power Brake E-Bike (This is basically just a Shimano Hydraulic brake set that's been modified to have the motor cut-off. Make sure to select the right option, in my case it was the second one from the left as my controller has the 2-pin (red) motor cut-off). Rotor Spacer: Shimano F180P/P2 Disc brake adapter Hose Wire Clip Clamps: Jiyaru Bicycle Cable Guide Brake Line Holder Hose Wire Clips Clamps (To route the hydraulic hose by attaching these to the existing closed cable lines). Tires: Schwalbe Marathon Plus HS 348 Road Bike Tire -- This thing stops like a beast now and with the extra traction from these tires this is a nice safety upgrade. Should reduce the changes of flats too as these tires have built-in tire-liners essentially. So far really happy with the upgrade. :) I hope this helps somebody out! Chad
  14. Ok, not a bike expert, just love to ride the Sonders. Bought 4 because they handle the 1000s of acres of country forest and pasture around my home. Because I'm bicycle clueless, all the bike speak is going over my head. Would you please speak to me like I'm 12 and tell me exactly what size inner tube and tire I need to buy to replace one of mine. I have the first generation Sonders bikes. Thanks so, so much!!!
  15. The 100%-Legality Project (for Germany) Alrighty, Ladies and Gentlemen... This is the (ongoing) story of my 100%-Legality Project (for Germany). Since my Sondors FAT would require to have an operating permit in order to get it insured and to be allowed to ride it legally, I decided to change the specs of my Sondors to turn it into a Pedelec. German regulations require a Pedelec to have a 250W motor and to have either no thumb throttle, or a thumb throttle which is limited to 6km/h (pushing aid). Further more, German regulations define a Pedelec as a bicycle, and bicycles do not require an operating limit or to be insured at all. Thanks to Wendy from Passion eBike, I now possess a 250W motor. I first thought about exchanging the original 350W motor and re-use the original rims and spokes, but after having seen so many cool mods here on the forum, it now urges me to get a set of new rims and tires. I've done some research and I am ready to start. I've also ordered a bunch of stuff: Bafang RMG060.250.DC geared hub motor, 36 holes, black (in stock) Origin8 QR135mm sealed front hub, 36 holes, 135mm disc, black (in stock) 2x Fat-Bike 26"x4" 100mm rims, 36 holes, 13 gauge, black (in stock) INBIKE Cruiser Bike Seat, Wide Suspension Comfortable Bike Saddle (in stock) 2x Kenda Juggernaut Sport DCT 26"x4,5" tires (in stock) 2x Fat-Bike rim tape for 100mm rims (in stock) 2x Fat-Bike tubes 26"x4,5" with Schrader valve (in stock) I might change my mind concerning the tires. The bike shop (whizz wheels) which will lace my new wheels has a pair of high quality tires to offer which might fit my preferred style. The guys from the above mentioned bike shop are experts for wheel building. Their prices aren't the most affordable, but since my motto is "quality first", it's ok. These spokes the're gonna use are: DTSwiss Comp 2,0/1,8/2,0mm spokes, black DTSwiss Prolock brass nipples, black DTSwiss Alpine special 2,34/2,0mm spokes, custom length, black DTSwiss ProHead + Prolock brass nipples, black I am looking forward to work on my Sondors. I'll keep you guys updated as soon as there's something new to tell.
  16. Racks, Bags, Baskets http://www.modernbike.com/topeak-mtx-quicktrack-bicycle-racks-bags-and-baskets http://www.ebay.com/itm/171955210815 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NGF6AY http://www.kmart.com/bike-pakrak-clip-on-commuter-bag-and-carrier/p-080V007160398000P http://www.factorystore.si/topeak-prtljaznik-os-s-kljucavnico-z-vzm?___store=b2c_en http://www.amazon.com/Thule-982XT-Frame-Adapter/dp/B004KZS5GW/ http://store.sondorsforum.com/products/rear-rack-bag http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B135SSE Fuel Tank type bag http://www.ebay.com/itm/Topeak-Fuel-Tank-Top-Tube-Frame-Bag-Large-/121831123136 Retro Rear Carrier Example mount on Sondors eBike: Green | on Amazon.com (cheapest) Chrome | on Amazon.com Blue | on chubbysbikes.com - on Amazon.com Black | on Amazon.com THIN Rack: Ibera PakRak IB-RA5
  17. Hello, Selling my 2017 fatty for $700. Bike is in great condition, rides fine, was professionally assembled by an electric bike shop in Northern California. Feel free to send me a message and thanks in advance.
  18. You may have seen some ads here for the product "Booster Battery" for the SONDORS eBikes. We highly warn against these batteries they are really dangerous. Connecting two different batteries together may/will cause the weaker battery to drain first to the point where voltage becomes zero, at this point the battery will be damaged forever with no way to repair it. That may be fine for some of you but, here comes the dangerous part. The larger battery will continue to draw from the weaker battery which have already been exhausted and it will get extremly hot - a extremly hot and exhausted battery will explode and burst into flames. You are getting yourself and other lives in danger when you're connecting two batteries that are not the same voltage and amp hour. You might have been doing this with no negative effect yet but obviously you have not done long term testing. If it was this simple, someone would have done this along time ago. Lithium batteries in general are extremly explosive and highly flammable especially when you are not utilizing it properly. Here's a video of what happens when lithium batteries get hot:
  19. Hi Does anyone have a condors fold certificate for customs, I cant seem to get one from anywhere?
  20. The Nightly Fold X Report I got to ride some more on Buffy's Fold X tonight. This was my first real ride after altering the LCD programing. Testing has now shown a stock Fold X with nothing more than Program changes to the LCD can do 23 mph on a flat, hot off the charger with no pedaling. You might be able to pedal assist to 25 but you'll look like a human egg beater doing it . With the slightest of advantage, such as a light tailwind, or downhill grade, 25 mph is easily attainable without pedaling, and I saw it do that several times. Another area I got to explore was handling. Since I haven't had time yet to install a proper headlight, I'm riding in the dark. I'm doing high speed testing in the dark. Don't try this at home kids, I'm a professional lol. I rode down some well known bumpy streets. Usually in the daytime I have to keep my eyes pealed for cracks and potholes, but in the dark I found all of them. What I noticed was that at pretty high speed, 20 mph and up, the ride was a lot smoother than I expected, especially when hitting bumps. At the same time I didn't feel like the bike was as bouncy as my fatty was with stock tires. It's running 20 psi. Range is looking really good. I'm ready to say 30 miles will be easy, and 40 miles with a little more effort. With a lot more effort than I care to do 50 miles. I think the new Panasonic 14ah 48v battery is very high quality, and I'm like the faster charging. So the bottom like is the ride is pretty smooth. As far as street riding goes, I'm not too impressed with the stock simi knobbies. They're really noisy at speed like the fatty tires. My Hook Worms are silent. I think some new street tires we be in the Folds future. Also have some other changes planned, but keeping them under my hat for now.
  21. Here you can find the right settings for your Sondors eBike generic LCD! KT LCD3 settings for Sondors buy a LCD here: klick Max. Speed: leave it, or set it to 25 km/h Wheel Diameter: 29 for 4.9" tires, 28 for 4.0" Metric and Imperial Units: your choice P1 = 100 (Motor Characteristic Parameter Setting Mode, 1 - 255) P2 = 6 (Wheel Speed Pulse Signal Setting Mode, 0 - 6) P3 = 1 (Power Assist Control Mode, 0 or 1) P4 = 0 (Handlebar Startup Mode, 0 or 1) P5 = 12 (Power Monitoring Mode, 0 - 40) C1 = 01 (Power Assist Sensor and Parameter Select Mode, 00 - 07) C2 = 0 (Motor Phase Classification Coding Mode, 0 - 7, 0:sin wave) C3 = 8 (Power Assist Ratio Gear Initialization Mode, 0 - 8 ) (C3=6 WARNING! Bike starts running forward on it’s own at power up!) C4 = 0 (Handlebar Function Setting Mode, 0 - 4) C5 = 10 (Controller Maximum Current Adjustment Mode, 00 - 10) C6 = 3 (Backlight Brightness Adjustment Mode, 1 - 5) C7 = 1 (Cruise Function Setting Mode, 0 or 1) C8 = 1 (Motor Operating Temperature Display Mode, 0 or 1) C9 = 0 (Startup Password Setting Mode, 0 or 1) C10 = n (Automatically Restore Default Setting Mode, n or y) C11 = 0 (Attribute Selection Mode, 0 - 2) C12 = 4 (Controller Minimum Voltage Adjustment Mode, 0 - 7) C13 = 0 (Brake energy recovery - recuperation - only works with the corresponding controller, 0 - 5) C14 = 2 (Coordination of support levels, 1 - 3, 2 = standard) (description of the C parameters follows) Step by step / Details What you should now to set up your KT LCD3 display: General Settings: Under power off status, hold the „power“ button long, the meter is turned on. Within 5 seconds after boot-up, hold „up“ and „down“ simultaneously for about 2 seconds. Now you are in the settings menu. (between each setting parameter press „power“ to save and to get to the next parameter) Max. Speed: leave it For Europe: set it to 25 km/h to be on the legal side. Wheel Diameter: set it to what it is: 29 inches Metric and Imperial Units: your choice After finishing metric/imperial unit settings, the speed and mileage units stop flashing. Within one minute after stoppong flashing, hold „up“ and „down“ simultaneously for about 2 seconds to enter the P parameter settings environment. Need values for our motor are (http://www.szbaf.com/en/components/component/motor/rm-g06350d.html): Cadence (Pulses/Cycle) 6/1 Reduction Ratio 1:5 Magnet Poles 20 P1 Motor Characteristic Parameter Setting Mode P1 is motor characteristic parameter setting mode. P1 = motor gear reduction ratio x number of rotor magnet pieces, just rounding if there’s any decimal. Sondors: Ratio 5 x 20 Magnet Poles = 100 = P1 P2 Wheel Speed Pulse Signal Setting Mode P2 is wheel speed pulse signal setting mode. If wheel generated 1 pulse signal by a revolution, P2 should be set as1. If wheel generated 6 pulse signals by a revolution, P2 should be set as 6. If users didn’t configure the pulse signal system, and then P2 parameter setting can be 0. The setting range of P2 should be between 0-6. 0 : motor hall sensor only (speed is only shown while motor is working) 1-6: Pulses per Cycle Sondors: Cadence (Pulses/Cycle) 6/1 = 6 = P2 P3 Power Assist Control Mode P3 is for power assist control mode, when P3 parameter setting is1, power assist control mode is gear 5 of “imitation torque control” mode, when P3 parameter setting is 0, power assist control mode is gear 5 of “speed control” mode. P3 parameter needs to be determined according to the distributed function of the controller, its setting range is 0 or 1 Sondors: P3 = 1 P4 Handlebar Startup Mode P4 is handlebar startup mode. When P4 setting is 1, indicating the handlebar is under “non-zero startup” mode, namely, the handlebar can be effective only after startup the foot power assist. When P4 setting is 0, indicating the handlebar is under “zero startup” mode, the motor can be startup by the handlebar directly. P4 setting range is 0 or 1 Sondors: P4 = 0 P5 Power Monitoring Mode P5 is power monitoring mode, when P5 setting is 0, the power monitoring is the “real-time voltage” mode. Namely, it is the method to determine the battery capacity based on real-time battery voltage. When P5 equals to a specified parameter, the power monitoring is the “smart power” mode (this parameter is determined by the battery characteristics, ordinary 24V lithium is generally is 4-11, 36V lithium is between 5_15). P5 setting ranges from 0-40. E.g.: 9 = 24 V 12 = 36 V 15 = 48 V Sondors: 36 V -> P5 = 12 To exit the programming mode just hold „power“ some seconds. After finishing P parameter settings, the P5 parameter stops flashing. Within 1 minute after stopping flashing, hold “up” and “down” for about 2 seconds to enter the C parameter setting environment. C1 Power Assist Sensor and Parameter Select Mode C1 is power assist sensor and parameter select mode. C1 Quantum power assist sensors or similar products 00 5 magnet sensor 01 8 magnet sensor 02 10 magnet sensor 03 12 magnet sensor 04 Power assist sensors from other manufacturers 05 06 07 Sondors: C1 = 02 C2 Motor Phase Classification Coding Mode C2 is motor phase classification coding mode. It is served as identification parameter of different phases of the motor when using sine wave drive and the default value is 0. When C2 setting is 0, indicating that the used Quantum motor phase is an ordinary one. When the setting is a certain value, indicating a particular motor phase is used. C2 setting range is 0-7. Sondors: C2 = 0 C3 Power Assist Ratio Gear Initialization Mode C3 is initialization mode of power assist ratio gear. The setting range is 0-8 (gear). When C3 setting is 0, the meter is switched on, and the power assist ratio is at gear 0. When the setting is 1, the meter is powered on and the power assist ratio is at gear 1, and so on. Sondors: C3 = 8 C4 Handlebar Function Setting Mode C5 Controller Maximum Current Adjustment Mode C6 Backlight Brightness Adjustment Mode C7 Cruise Function Setting Mode Activate the Cruise Mode: C8 Motor Operating Temperature Display Mode C9 Startup Password Setting Mode C10 Automatically Restore Default Setting Mode C11 Attribute Selection Mode C12 Controller Minimum Voltage Adjustment Mode C13 Brake energy recovery - recuperation - only works with the corresponding controller C14 Coordination of support levels (C Parameters are following some time) Want a complete manual? (GENERAL Manual - not special for Sondors) Here you go: KT-LCD3 General Manual.pdf (to view/download you have to be logged in)
  22. To install you remove the top cap on the headset, then with the supplied longer screw and a hammer drive the threaded insert deeper into the fork tube. This will allow room for the GPS unit to be inserted. (click Image to enlarge) Currently the best deal for one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-GPS-SMS-Tracker-GPS305-TK305-Quad-Band-Real-time-deep-sleep-NO-BOX-/321385919756?hash=item4ad417f50c I purchased a sim card from this place https://www.ptel.com/phones Just got the “pay as you go” plan and for $100 got 1 year of service It was very easy to set-up and when done sends you text messages if your bike is tampered with It will actively text you as the bike is moving or you can call the number for quicker text updates. It uses a small independent GPS chip built into the unit for location, so it is susceptible to signal loss inside buildings.
  23. Living way out in the suburbs, I need more range to get anywhere fun in this town. I decided to chuck the little 8.8 ah bottle battery, and install a triangle battery, and while I'm at it, why not over volt it to 48v? You can find these triangles in different ah ratings. 20 ah would probably be more than enough for most people, but I opted for the 30 ah 48v. Physical size is exactly the same whether 20, 25, or 30 ah. Right off the bat, your biggest obstacle is relocating the controller, which will be in the way. I decided to mount mine on the seat post tube, between the seat post and the tire. A good alternative position would be on the front down tube. In either position you should be able to mount the stock controller without cutting any wires. I used some left over mounts from a china girl motor bicycle kit to mount my controller. Next you'll need to fabricate a support to hold the battery weight off of the plastic box. This was pretty easy compared to mounting the controller. I used a piece of aluminum raw stock, a couple of washers used as spacers to lift the support to the proper height, and a couple button head bolts to hold it to the down tube, same as the stock battery cradle.
  24. The purpose of this thread is to display the various parts of the Sondors Original electric bicycle. These diagrams are meant to annotate all parts on the Sondors Original ebike with an eye towards defining terms for the complete beginner. Have a suggestion for improvement? Post a question in the forum so all can see and contribute. This thread is a reference work that is closed to replies to keep it tidy. Try clicking on an image and bring it up in a new window. These started out life as high resolution images and can be seen larger in their native format. The Frame Here we point out common terms for the Sondors frame. These terms are common to all bicycles and ebikes, and you can use these terms in any discussion of cycling, anywhere. Bicycle Components Here we list the parts attached to the frame, above. We can't point to every single part but we have hit all of the highlights Components - Rear Zooming in on the back to label a few things not easily visible in the full bike view. Components - Front Zooming in on the front axle area to see some details on the brakes. More importantly, if someone wants to see your Sondors' nipples you don't necessarily need to call the police. Components - Middle Now you know the bottom bracket means two things depending on what you are pointing at. And the 'spindle' is the axle of the cranks, and hold on the crank arm via the crank bolt (which takes an 8mm hex key wrench that you should check every so often to ensure it is still at about 35 ft lbs of torque). Plus with this enlarged view we can see the 2-pieces that make up the PAS system a lot better.
  25. This information applies to: SONDORS Thin eBike (all variants), SONDORS Fat eBike (all variants), SONDORS Fold eBike (all variants) and SONDORS X (all variants) Great, you've got your new SONDORS electric bike. But you cannot find the keys for the battery? Don't panic! Here are two possible locations: In the Battery/Controller case, between battery or controller or In the foam packaging of the battery Didn't find them? Please carefully search in the shipping box / shipping material. They are not big so you could overlook them quickly! You searched for the keys in every possible location over and over again but couldn't find them? Please contact support@sondors.com for help. Ride safe! Andi
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