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About Me

Found 8 results

  1. Living way out in the suburbs, I need more range to get anywhere fun in this town. I decided to chuck the little 8.8 ah bottle battery, and install a triangle battery, and while I'm at it, why not over volt it to 48v? You can find these triangles in different ah ratings. 20 ah would probably be more than enough for most people, but I opted for the 30 ah 48v. Physical size is exactly the same whether 20, 25, or 30 ah. Right off the bat, your biggest obstacle is relocating the controller, which will be in the way. I decided to mount mine on the seat post tube, between the seat post and the tire. A good alternative position would be on the front down tube. In either position you should be able to mount the stock controller without cutting any wires. I used some left over mounts from a china girl motor bicycle kit to mount my controller. Next you'll need to fabricate a support to hold the battery weight off of the plastic box. This was pretty easy compared to mounting the controller. I used a piece of aluminum raw stock, a couple of washers used as spacers to lift the support to the proper height, and a couple button head bolts to hold it to the down tube, same as the stock battery cradle.
  2. I am really confused about the specific instructions required for charging the thin. I am very curious about why the charging requirements are so strict and what is at risk for failure if the process is not followed. First, it is very important to turn off the battery switch before charging. Well I forgot to do just that, my charger is hot and the battery didn't charge. Did I cause damage? What is actually being electronically switched within the battery enclosure? Second, it is important to plug in the charger to AC only AFTER the bike has it's DC jack plugged in. I really rarely do this. The charging block is bulky and the plug is hard to move. What damage does this cause? This isn't something I have every heard of with other electronics. I know a little about lithium batteries and charge controllers, I build my own electronics projects and things. These procedures feel weird to me with my experience in DC electronics and probably put in place to cut costs on proper safe electronics. My overarching question is what are these weak points that require these additional steps, Is it a cheap charger, or charging component within the battery that add's these steps. What damage is caused for having the charger plugged in with the battery turned 'ON" What damage is potential for having the DC jack plugged in after the AC power was applied? Thanks
  3. A few months ago I moved across the country to New York. One thing I had to bring was my Sondors. It was tricky, but it arrived in fine condition. I charged the battery that first day and took the bike out for a ride around the new neighborhood. Afterwards, I put the bike in the garage and the battery on a shelf in the house. That's where they both sat for about a month. After that time I charged the battery again, put it into the bike, and nothing happened. No lights coming on (Besides those on the battery itself) and there's no power when I use the throttle or peddle the bike. If anyone has any idea what could have gone wrong here I would really appreciate it. I have a Sondors Original Fat Bike.
  4. Controller making noise & very low power Having some trouble with my Fat Tire. On a fully charged battery, the bike barely has any pulling power, and there's a noise coming from the controller. Do I need to replace the controller on this unit? Any suggestions for shops in Los Angeles that are familiar with these? Video of the problem: IMG_4416.MOV
  5. weak power I have a "thin" which I purchased through the "immediate delivery" option in Feb 2017 for $499 (without the screen) and it worked great the first few outings. On the last outing the battery seemed to die early (~ 12 miles) even though the battery charge indicator on the right grip showed a full charge. After a seemingly successful battery recharge (green light on charger) there is power to the hub but it is extremely weak. I plugged the battery back in but the charger still shows green (charged). I've checked all the obvious connection point between the battery and the hub. I’ve been careful to follow the charging directions (ie. battery switch to off and plug into wall last). Does this problem sound familiar to anyone? Suggestions? Diagnostic procedures? Thanks....Roger
  6. Hey guys so I have a question I hope you can help me with. I got an original fat bike last year (no LCD) and added the official Sondors LCD after. I love the bike, especially with the LCD, but I live in a hilly area and it lacks power on climbs, especially with my 185lb butt with a full backpack on it. I think a higher current controller might help the situation, but I understand there are some compatibility issues with the Sondors LCD and the controllers Luna cycles sells. Does anybody know how to identify what controller/LCD combo I have so I can look for a stronger controller that will work? Or is there a better first step for a power increase other than the controller upgrade? Thanks all.
  7. written by Mike Ritchie – B/Y Storm e-bike owner Here are a few pictures showing the "no power" issue caused by a brake switch being triggered. If you've charged your battery, inserted it correctly and have your battery switch turn to "on", and you confirm that the LED lights on your handlebar throttle illuminate, BUT you don't get power (or intermittent power) the issue is likely with your brake cutout switch. This bike is designed to cut off the motor when the brake levers are depressed, even a very small amount. This issue can be caused by brake cables with too much slack, creating play in the brake lever. In this first picture you can see a properly aligned brake with no slack. The lever is fully released and there is no gap between it and the housing. This is how things should look. In this second shot I have depressed the lever ever so slightly. I'm doing this manually, but this can also be caused by slack. The brake cable should be tight enough that this doesn't happen due to just being loose. A gap this small will cause your power to cut out. Here's what happened to me. I had things installed correctly, but I didn't notice that the brake cable itself found its way to a position where it kept the brake lever from fully releasing. Once I read that the brakes could do this (thanks guys) I quickly found the issue. My cable is now out of the way and snapped to other cables to keep it that way. Hope this all helps.
  8. First ebike. I have the lcd and the bike is working. I am not sure when to pedal and when to go full power. I imagine using the pedals will increase range. Any help will be appreciated.
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