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Hey folks that are patiently, or impatiently, awaiting a shipping notice or bike, please read this. Based on our experience with this since 2015, here is what you can expect: UPDATE: With COVID-19, unfortunately, the experience of recent years can no longer be applied. Containers have become a scarce commodity. The disaster with the EVER GIVEN has not made it better. With the significant impact on the global world market, things are piling up in front of the ports. Simple processes like getting to port, unloading containers and reloading have become much much more time consuming than it usually is. We are sorry about this because we know how painful it is to have to wait longer for your new great bike. We are also just owners. Because (as you know) we are a forum for owners from owners. We also want your bike (especially the new models) to arrive as soon as possible, but we have no influence on that. Please contact the manufacturer support for the latest information regarding your delivery. But what we know for sure: the bikes are coming. even with all the covid impact. Thousands of bikes. I can feel the excitement, or maybe it's just me lol. But anyway I can feel the pressure building. We don't mind you posting your delivery notice, but please don't post your tracking number. Just black that part out, and you're good to go. You don't want anyone the be able to reroute your delivery to my house do you? Moderators will delete all posts we see with tracking numbers. If you have ordered or already got your Sondors eBike - please login or register and pin yourself to the member map: https://sondorsforum.com/membermap/ Feel free to post your unpacked or still packed bike in this Gallery Section - We are looking forward to your pictures! https://sondorsforum.com/gallery/category/3-unboxed-show-us-your-sondors-ebike/ The Sondors Owner Forum is a great place to share information about your Sondors eBike. We have many available resources here, that may have great value for you. Take your time and read everything carefully. I would love to see you as an new member on the Owners Forum! Questions? Feel free to ask!
Long story short: The generic LCD (KT-LCD3) that you can buy from a lot of vendors, and the "Wendy LCD" that you can buy from Passion eBike (AliExpress) and velomobileshop.com with the Sondors plug will apparently NOT work with your bikes from kickstarter. Sondors has apparently changed to a proprietary Ketung controller and communication protocol for the KickStarter bikes. Only the LCD available from Sondors directly will work with it, and you have to make sure you order the LCD for KickStarter campaign, because they also sell LCDs for the older IGG campaign bikes. What you can do: If you don’t want a LCD Display from Sondors here are a few options: Buy the 20A Controller from Wendy this one will work with your Bike & the generic LCD. If you want more torque wait for the 25A Controller which will be released soon by Wendy. This one will also work with your existing Bike & the generic LCD.
Solutions how to mount your 20A Controller without any problems. You can see there is a size difference between the Stock Controller and the 20A Controller. This mean you cannot mount it properly. Solutions: Use (heavy duty) Velcro Tape. One flange 3m dual lock Possible 20A Velcro mount: Questions or other recommendations to mount? ↓
written by Mike Ritchie – B/Y Storm e-bike owner Here are a few pictures showing the "no power" issue caused by a brake switch being triggered. If you've charged your battery, inserted it correctly and have your battery switch turn to "on", and you confirm that the LED lights on your handlebar throttle illuminate, BUT you don't get power (or intermittent power) the issue is likely with your brake cutout switch. This bike is designed to cut off the motor when the brake levers are depressed, even a very small amount. This issue can be caused by brake cables with too much slack, creating play in the brake lever. In this first picture you can see a properly aligned brake with no slack. The lever is fully released and there is no gap between it and the housing. This is how things should look. In this second shot I have depressed the lever ever so slightly. I'm doing this manually, but this can also be caused by slack. The brake cable should be tight enough that this doesn't happen due to just being loose. A gap this small will cause your power to cut out. Here's what happened to me. I had things installed correctly, but I didn't notice that the brake cable itself found its way to a position where it kept the brake lever from fully releasing. Once I read that the brakes could do this (thanks guys) I quickly found the issue. My cable is now out of the way and snapped to other cables to keep it that way. Hope this all helps.