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  1. So I decided to go for a 52v upgrade on my Sondors Thin using the Luna Cycles 52V TRIANGLE PANASONIC GA 18650 14AH HIGH POWER AND LONG RANGE battery. I carefully measured and I thought I could just barely get it in to my Sondors Thin if I took out the bumpers for the stock battery and some of the cable guides. I got the battery and even after looking it I thought it would work (see attached photos). I used a Dremel to take out the bumpers that were in there and most of the cable guides in the top right. The battery looks like it was made for the box, dimensionally it fits like a glove, but (and I knew this was going to be the tough part) the hard box on the Thin just won't quite close even after my modes. I don't think I'm close enough to quite get it there either. I really like the look of the hard box case on the Thin, so I'm trying to figure out it: Is there some alternative idea to getting this thing to work in the stock box. I'd thought maybe there's some way to modify the hinges... or even cutting off the outer rubber on the battery might save a few mm. Any ideas folks? That's why I'm posting on the forum. Is there another form of hard box, maybe from the non-Thin Sondors, that might fit in it? Is there something dumb I'm just not thinking of here? I guess the final option is just remove the box and put in a soft triangle bag (such as the Luna Cycles one). Does anyone have any experience putts one of those on the Thin? And once I do that I might as well get an even bigger 52v battery, right? I've also got photos of it compared to the ElctroBikeWorld LT48. Appreciate any input anyone has. Thanks! @Reddy Kilowatt?
  2. Grant Cook

    New bike, no charge.

    I have owned a Sondors Thin for 24 hours after 6 months of thinking about it and 3 months of waiting for delivery. Assembled,plugged battery in (green light). They charged it at the factory? Thanks! Twenty fun miles later the battery won't charge and I am deep in buyer 's remorse. What should I do? Green light but the battery is down to one bar.
  3. Hi all, I thought I would share some of my findings regarding Luna's KT-LCD3 and P5 - Power Monitoring Mode. I have the basic Thin with an upgraded screen and controller from Luna Cycle. Once hooked up, I notice that the battery level on the screen did not match the battery level that's on the battery. Once down to 0 level on the screen, I can see there's still some power left on the battery. So here's what I found. If you get to the P5 function on the screen, you'll find that you can change the setting from 0 to 12. For the Thin, I've seen 5 as a default. So off for a ride I go, having a great time, and later found myself down to nothing on the screen. I've figured that I've drained the battery down for the low voltage protector to kick in. Bike was a tank to pedal and had about 2.5 miles to get home... along with a few hills. I then remember someone saying that if you set the setting to 0, then you can get a real time of the batteries voltage. Sure enough, the meter showed 1 bar and was able to get the controller above the low voltage protector for the bike to move. I also noticed that if I set the PAS to 2, the low voltage would kick in as well as using any throttle. So as long as I left the PAS to 1, and provided and extra effort in peddling, I was able to get home. I also want to note that if you set P5 at 5, the battery level drops at a faster rate from 2 to 1 as compared to 4 to 3. YMMV
  4. You may have seen some ads here for the product "Booster Battery" for the SONDORS eBikes. We highly warn against these batteries they are really dangerous. Connecting two different batteries together may/will cause the weaker battery to drain first to the point where voltage becomes zero, at this point the battery will be damaged forever with no way to repair it. That may be fine for some of you but, here comes the dangerous part. The larger battery will continue to draw from the weaker battery which have already been exhausted and it will get extremly hot - a extremly hot and exhausted battery will explode and burst into flames. You are getting yourself and other lives in danger when you're connecting two batteries that are not the same voltage and amp hour. You might have been doing this with no negative effect yet but obviously you have not done long term testing. If it was this simple, someone would have done this along time ago. Lithium batteries in general are extremly explosive and highly flammable especially when you are not utilizing it properly. Here's a video of what happens when lithium batteries get hot:
  5. Hi there, I have had my Sondors Thin for 6 or 7 months. Recently I have noticed the battery is not holding a charge like it used to. Wondering if anyone knows what I should expect. Previously a full charge would get me to work and back twice before needing a charge. I could charge it up and leave it for 2-3 days and then take it to work again. Now it seems if I leave it without charging for more than a day the battery will go down to no charge (from full) without riding it. I always follow the charging instructions. When I do leave it over the weekend I leave the battery in the bike connected but turn it off. Is this just the battery getting old or is this expected? Thanks
  6. I would like to confirm if the attached is the right charger for a Sondors Original (fat bike) from Oct 2015. I haven't used the bike at all and parts were lost/misplaced when I moved. Any help/insight would be much appreciated.
  7. Can stock controller handle 48V? Can the stock controller handle a 48V battery? I guess fully-charged it can get as high as 54V. What would happen if a 48V battery was installed without changing the stock controller? Would the controller melt? Short out? Put out a motor sine wave that's clipped? Ruin the motor? Or would it handle it and there would be no problems? Has anyone tried this?
  8. Living way out in the suburbs, I need more range to get anywhere fun in this town. I decided to chuck the little 8.8 ah bottle battery, and install a triangle battery, and while I'm at it, why not over volt it to 48v? You can find these triangles in different ah ratings. 20 ah would probably be more than enough for most people, but I opted for the 30 ah 48v. Physical size is exactly the same whether 20, 25, or 30 ah. Right off the bat, your biggest obstacle is relocating the controller, which will be in the way. I decided to mount mine on the seat post tube, between the seat post and the tire. A good alternative position would be on the front down tube. In either position you should be able to mount the stock controller without cutting any wires. I used some left over mounts from a china girl motor bicycle kit to mount my controller. Next you'll need to fabricate a support to hold the battery weight off of the plastic box. This was pretty easy compared to mounting the controller. I used a piece of aluminum raw stock, a couple of washers used as spacers to lift the support to the proper height, and a couple button head bolts to hold it to the down tube, same as the stock battery cradle.
  9. I have had my Sondors Thin for about a year now & use it daily to get to work/home. I started noticing the bike was having trouble staying at full speed when the battery was running low a few months ago, it would keep me running at 19 instead of the full 20 when the battery was at about a quarter charge left(one bar on the screens battery indicator). Since then it has gotten progressively worse and is now down to only holding me at 16 with a low battery, when the battery is full the bike performs like it did straight out of the box but only for the first quarter of the battery or so. I have kept the bike factory except for the tires & inner tubes, I am running tubeless on the front & the standard setup on the rear at the moment, doesn't seem relevant but was advised to list any mods. I am wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction for troubleshooting this problem, I am thinking it is the controller going bad because I have taken proper care of my battery per the instructions that came with my Sondors & the fact that it performs perfectly fine when the battery is full but I would like to get some other opinions on the matter before I start replacing/upgrading anything.
  10. MattRobertson

    Visual Map To Sondors Original Parts

    The purpose of this thread is to display the various parts of the Sondors Original electric bicycle. These diagrams are meant to annotate all parts on the Sondors Original ebike with an eye towards defining terms for the complete beginner. Have a suggestion for improvement? Post a question in the forum so all can see and contribute. This thread is a reference work that is closed to replies to keep it tidy. Try clicking on an image and bring it up in a new window. These started out life as high resolution images and can be seen larger in their native format. The Frame Here we point out common terms for the Sondors frame. These terms are common to all bicycles and ebikes, and you can use these terms in any discussion of cycling, anywhere. Bicycle Components Here we list the parts attached to the frame, above. We can't point to every single part but we have hit all of the highlights Components - Rear Zooming in on the back to label a few things not easily visible in the full bike view. Components - Front Zooming in on the front axle area to see some details on the brakes. More importantly, if someone wants to see your Sondors' nipples you don't necessarily need to call the police. Components - Middle Now you know the bottom bracket means two things depending on what you are pointing at. And the 'spindle' is the axle of the cranks, and hold on the crank arm via the crank bolt (which takes an 8mm hex key wrench that you should check every so often to ensure it is still at about 35 ft lbs of torque). Plus with this enlarged view we can see the 2-pieces that make up the PAS system a lot better.
  11. This information applies to: SONDORS Thin eBike (all variants), SONDORS Fat eBike (all variants), SONDORS Fold eBike (all variants) and SONDORS X (all variants) Great, you've got your new SONDORS electric bike. But you cannot find the keys for the battery? Don't panic! Here are two possible locations: In the Battery/Controller case, between battery or controller or In the foam packaging of the battery Didn't find them? Please carefully search in the shipping box / shipping material. They are not big so you could overlook them quickly! You searched for the keys in every possible location over and over again but couldn't find them? Please contact support@sondors.com for help. Ride safe! Andi
  12. Hi there, I hadn't used my sondors thin bike for about 3 months, and when I went back to charge it, the plug sparked when I put it in the battery, and will not charge. I bought a replacement charger, (not a sondors official charger but a charger with similar specs) but it will not recharge. The battery still holds charge from when I had charged it prior to the 3 months, but will not accumulate charge now. Any suggestions? Should I purchase a sondors official charger? Or is it a battery issue? Thanks! Edit: After checking the fuse, its seems to be still intact. Any ideas?
  13. This summer I came across a potentially bad issue, the factory did not properly tighten the wires inside the battery holder. Only once while riding did my battery mysteriously cut out for a minute and seemed to work again for several rides. I was removing the battery one day (I don't normally do that) and noticed the wire seemed slightly loser than it should be. I unscrewed the small plate on the bottom of the battery holder and found this: Those are lock nuts and do not move on their own if tightened properly. They are immediately behind the two spring battery contacts in the battery holder. This thing has been rattling around and sparking up a storm for several rides! As you can see, it was partially melted from the added resistance and charring. I would encourage everyone to at least give the battery cables a little wiggle and listen for any looseness. If you are suspicious at all, you need to first remove the battery holder from the lower frame with the two alan screws, then use a small philips to remove the small connection cover. Also, you must put a pin or tiny screwdriver through the hole in the battery spring contact to prevent it from turning before attempting to tighten the hex screws for the wires. If your wire IS fried like mine, first remove it completely and clean off any charring with a wire brush. Make sure the two can't touch and short when back in the holder, add some electrical tape if necessary. Here's a quick video as well: IMG_2501.mov
  14. Harvey Moon

    Thin Charging Procedure

    I am really confused about the specific instructions required for charging the thin. I am very curious about why the charging requirements are so strict and what is at risk for failure if the process is not followed. First, it is very important to turn off the battery switch before charging. Well I forgot to do just that, my charger is hot and the battery didn't charge. Did I cause damage? What is actually being electronically switched within the battery enclosure? Second, it is important to plug in the charger to AC only AFTER the bike has it's DC jack plugged in. I really rarely do this. The charging block is bulky and the plug is hard to move. What damage does this cause? This isn't something I have every heard of with other electronics. I know a little about lithium batteries and charge controllers, I build my own electronics projects and things. These procedures feel weird to me with my experience in DC electronics and probably put in place to cut costs on proper safe electronics. My overarching question is what are these weak points that require these additional steps, Is it a cheap charger, or charging component within the battery that add's these steps. What damage is caused for having the charger plugged in with the battery turned 'ON" What damage is potential for having the DC jack plugged in after the AC power was applied? Thanks
  15. I'm looking to buy a spare x battery 48 volt 17.5 amp triangle , SONDORS doesnt offer one for sale yet! Imagine the range with two spare batteries in the rear panniers , SWEET ! CHEERS...
  16. Battery Dead? I have a Sondors Thin that has been working fine since I bought it over a year ago in May. Today it wouldn't turn on. I have the Luna LCD and it would flash for a half second then go dead. The battery test LEDs on the battery itself will not light either. I tried swapping batteries to my wife's thin (with no LCD) and it does the same on the throttle LEDs (flash for 1/2 sec then nothing). It's been charging all day. All connections have been triple checked. Is it a goner? And if so, what options might I have to repair or replace... this is my commuter bike! Thanks
  17. battery ah advice if i had a custom battery thats 36v 26ah, with pedal assit at 1 or 2, does it sound right that i should be able to get at least 180-300 ride time????
  18. Spare emergency battery 36v 8.8ah from 2 scooter batteries... Extra riding time cheaply.... Even use the stock charger as well...
  19. Hi all, So my girlfriend has a Sondors (fat tire) that she got a few months ago. Since then, I've run into this issue twice: the prongs in the battery compartment get stuck. See image below. I ordered a replacement part after the first time it happened, but not that it's happened again, this is starting to feel a bit ridiculous. Is this a known issue with any known fixes? I can't keep repairing/replacing this part. Note: this is not my image, this is from another user's post. But this is exactly what I'm seeing on her bike.
  20. Sondors THIN battery upgrade Hi all Sondors THIN owners, Anyone sucessfully found and installed a non-stock battery on a Sondors THIN? If so, I would sure love to hear about it, and see some pictures of what you did and how. The point for me, would be to upgrade from 36v stock battery to, say, a 48v/20a pack. But it needs to fit the plastic box on the bike, of course.... I know that both Luna and Velo websites sell Sondors battery upgrades (both 48 and 50v) but theyre made for the Fatbike, and the battery is different on the THIN. Namely, on the THIN, it is not a bottle-style battery, but rather a neat looking triangular box that clicks in and out of place, with a key to lock it in. This means that the plastic mounts and reinforcements inside the plastic box on the bike are different, and take up space differently (and moreso!) than on the Fatbike - as far as I can tell. Also, I think that maybe the plastic box on the THIN is actually a little bit slimmer that it is on the Fatbike to begin with, is that right? So all in all, I dont think the Luna and Velo batteries will fit the THIN bikes. Sadly. BUT there may be other options out there - e.g. from the numerous chinese sellers online. Or maybe Luna or others have plans to make something for the THIN bikes in future? Any and all input on this topic would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, JKS
  21. Shaun Hamontree

    Battery Issue Maybe?

    Battery Issue Maybe? The last time i rode my fat bike i failed to turn the battery off. 5 months have gone by and when attempting to charge it, the light stays green and doesn't charge. This is after all of the suggested plug in wall last etc etc. Normally i'd automatically say it's a bad battery, but i've only ridden the bike 3 times since i've had it. So basically the battery is brand new. Is the fact that it's drained completely relevant to my problem? Any help is most appreciated Cheers, Shaun
  22. bromanz31

    triangle dimensions

    triangle dimensions anyone know the dimensions exactly...and/or have a cad they can send me?
  23. Roger

    weak power

    weak power I have a "thin" which I purchased through the "immediate delivery" option in Feb 2017 for $499 (without the screen) and it worked great the first few outings. On the last outing the battery seemed to die early (~ 12 miles) even though the battery charge indicator on the right grip showed a full charge. After a seemingly successful battery recharge (green light on charger) there is power to the hub but it is extremely weak. I plugged the battery back in but the charger still shows green (charged). I've checked all the obvious connection point between the battery and the hub. I’ve been careful to follow the charging directions (ie. battery switch to off and plug into wall last). Does this problem sound familiar to anyone? Suggestions? Diagnostic procedures? Thanks....Roger
  24. Hello all, here is a small update from Sondors referring the international availability of upgraded batteries and replacement batteries: Nick Go Sondors Zendesk (Go Sondors) Aug 5, 21:52 PDT Unfortunately we are not able to ship either battery to you at this time. We are working to make the batteries available internationally and will certainly make announcements with our progress. All the best,
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