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MattRobertson

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MattRobertson last won the day on October 16 2020

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About MattRobertson

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  1. I recently sent my two CLG-150 chargers to a friend who is using one of my bikes as a test to see if she likes ebike commuting. So I needed another charger and scored a near-pristine HLG-320H-54A on Fleabay for $50 delivered. Its near-pristine because it was missing the rubber pot plugs. I found these as replacements. They are stiff but you can use your little Phillips adjusting screwdriver as a mini prybar and stuff them in the hole with it. Then use the tip of your rotating thumb pressing down to 'screw' them in fully. They end up being such a solid, snug fit (still easy to pry ba
  2. @BillieC it works both ways. I got into this in more detail in the installation/assembly posts at the beginning of the thread, but to revisit: You want to power this thing up before connecting to the battery (thereby giving it a 'soft start' so there can never be a spark upon connection). When the unconnected charger powers up, you are seeing the source readings. You will see voltage and this is the time you adjust the final output voltage you want to reach when the battery is fully charged. As you can expect, this is usually a set-it-and-forget-it job but if you are smart a
  3. For anyone else who comes by and sees this thread... The aftermarket vendor who sells the 100mm x 177mm bottom brackets that work for the Originals now makes an 80x142 bottom bracket that matches the spec of the Sondors Thin. At least on paper. It will take a few weeks for someone to buy one and for it to get here on the boat so it can be measured/installed/etc. I found it by searching on '80x142 bottom bracket' in case this links stops working: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ZTTO-Bicycle-80mm-100mm-Square-Tapered-Bottom-Bracket-BSA-80x142-100x155-100x177-80-100-Axis-For/329652242
  4. @BrokenBearingsJosh You need to go to the Sondors Storm Owners Group on Facebook. Once there ask to join (I'm one of several group moderators and we approve new members quickly) Once inside, there is a link to a support form that you can use to get to Sondors tech support. Not sure why you haven't been able to get a direct response as I also know Sondors has a supply of Thin bottom brackets held in the warehouse specifically to deal with situations like yours. While in the Group, I suggest opening up a thread and asking the community for help on this as well. That will trigger fol
  5. Just the standard lever. No need to mess with anything that also mounts stuff like shifters. I had a set of MT5e's that were take-offs that had the shifter mounts and if you get them, they will still work. Just will have a fitting on them you won't need. The picture in the first post shows the std lever.
  6. By the way, at $120.79 this is currently the best online price on MT5e's from this vendor, 365 Cycles: https://ebay.us/IB6q2H I have bought - I think - three sets of these to date *from this vendor* for various bikes I have built (add a couple more sets from bike-discount.de and the German bike shop guy... Karl Vom Kanal, if I remember coorectly. So I have a bunch of them and essentially have standardized on one brakeset and one rotor size (205mm) so I only have to stock one set of spare parts across what is now a small fleet. Interestingly, that first set on my Sondors sprung
  7. Hi sorry I missed this. You want the NO (Normally Open). AKA "Closer" version. In German: "Schliesser"
  8. "domestic brand" = Chinese no-name. If that weren't so they would say the battery make (Samsung, Panasonic, LG etc.) immediately and out loud. They would also specify the cell type. A 2600mah battery is solidly mundane in its capacity. 18650 cells charge to a range of 3.0v (0% and a forever dead battery at that level) to 4.2v so the 3.7v number is meaningless... its just the 'nominal' number more or less universal to all such cells. When you connect two batteries together like this, its called "parallel'ing" them and there are risks to this. You can overcome many of them by usi
  9. Yes this is an EU- mandated surcharge on the bikes. Sondors is as much a victim as the consumer is. If you followed the EU bike tariff complaint filed by the EBMA, it really was ... well, disgusting. Protectionism at its very worst. EBMA cited a Stromer as a properly priced ebike and Chinese bikes as therefore 'dumped'. I am oversimplifying greatly but that is what it boiled down to. Take that EU consumers. Bafang is reportedly scouting a manufacturing plant in Eastern Europe. Its within the EU but not subject to Swiss wage levels. They will wind up being just as competitive as th
  10. None of your links work. Looking at their site, looks like their 'quads' are Surrey bikes, with one neat-looking 4wd fat tire quad (as in four powered wheels) for a princely sum. I'd hope very much they have perfected their driveshaft system to run with decent power. The motor they show in the pictures is a 3000w Cyclone and they are advertising a 500w mid drive. As for pros and cons, generally: Bigger = more range. But also more weight. For a single-person ride, even if its a quad, 40ah is colossal. And colossally heavy. 14.5ah is typical for a bike. Probably too small. Bey
  11. Nothing special... Really its about your own preferences. I go for speed. My bike is geared to be able to pedal along at 32 mph and I ride at PAS5/PAS5 continuously, with C14 set to boost my PAS signal, so if I am pedaling, I accelerate harder than if I use throttle... assuming I leave C5=10/C5=10. However over time I have found that if I am running full-blast PAS at all times that acceleration with two motors so strong can be dangerous. So as much as I like to be pinned back into the seat, I have set both motors to C5=0 - the full strength slow-start. Note there are two other levels of
  12. The Panasonic GA is only a good choice when you are piling it into a very large pack. While it has a relatively high data storage capacity at 3500 mah, It doesn't handle power drains well. It is rated by the manufacturer for a 10A drain, which is not particularly strong (in the battery world of, say, 2015 you had a choice between storage and power output, so the GA went the storage route). Here's where it becomes smart to use GA's in bigger packs: They are rated for 10A but they get unusually hot The DIY battery crowd's rule of thumb with them is to keep them to about 7A (remember, heat i
  13. Ralf, I buy a lot of stuff from Rose Bikes. Especially my brake and drivetrain parts. I just bought four sets of brake pads for my Magura brakes and buying in that quantity offsets the shipping cost from Germany so I am still saving a lot. https://www.rosebikes.de/shimano-b01s-disc-brake-pads-701755 https://www.rosebikes.de/kool-stop-shimanotektro-disc-pads-160817 The pads are the same as Shimano pads so you actually have quite a large variety of suppliers to choose from.
  14. Along the same lines as the link above, Rad Power Bikes owner Mike Radenbaugh has acknowledged that the motor is in fact a 500w Bafang that has been re-marked as 750w because it is warrantied to perform at 750w.. Its better if I let him tell it himself: For the sake of complete context, here is the link to the original full thread https://electricbikereview.com/forum/threads/question-about-the-motors-on-the-radrover.6314/ In a closed ebike group in September of 2018 this issue blew up again in a big way. Mr. Radenbaugh essentially re-stated the above position - that the motor's
  15. There should be no changes needed thanks to your controller switch. Plus you didn't change the motor... so its a direct swap. When I upgraded one of my LCD3's to an LCD8H, all I did was copy over the settings. The exception to that is the initial settings which are different. I changed Km's to mph by setting the third entry to '3' which Kyle notes in his video, linked above. the LCD3 and the LCD8h are essentially identical under the hood. The LCD8H is just easier to set up and its display shows everything you need on one screen vs. the LCD3's three screens.
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