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MattRobertson last won the day on November 8

MattRobertson had the most liked content!

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About MattRobertson

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  1. September Shipments Europe

    If you are referring to VAT, that was collected at initial purchase. For me with a Belgian delivery address at least thats it for taxes/customs.
  2. Any tall Sondors riders out there??

    Small point: the Rad is not made in Seattle. They say "designed in Seattle". Its a Chinese bike. Search 'electric fat bike' on AliExpress and look at the Eunorau and the Pasion ebike offerings... same frame mfr. Different battery option for Eunorau... Rad is specifying parts and trim level from a Chinese factory just like pretty much everyone else. Rad and Sondors both are testimony to the fact that Chinese does not necessarily mean crappy. Typically Chinese bikes are utilitarian, no fancy manufacturing techniques (although the Fold frame is a big time exception to that, and definitely not for weight weenies. Bafang is the shining exception to the rule that Chinese manufacturers never over-engineer anything. I have a BBSHD for my next build and that is one freaking solid motor, just like the fat hub motors. Sondors has their scheme to get low-cost parts assembled into a bike and Rad has theirs. Sondors uses parts unique to its brand (frame, battery box) and its arguable whether thats good or bad (good: neat stuff. Bad: getting replacements). Both wind up with a good end product but they choose very different paths to get there. Rad's big difference is carrying US inventory and price which is paying for their service level.
  3. September Shipments Europe

    I was told today that the EU shipment had finally arrived last weekend in the Netherlands and they are working to get the cargo containers opened up and the boxes loaded up onto UPS trucks (or those goofy pedicab/pedelecs they are using in some places :D). We'll see, right?
  4. October 22 deliveries

    A Sondors really is not the bike for a person who wants extensive customer service. Its more for self-starters and the mechanically handy. With a Sondors, you are getting a very good bicycle at a price point that is far below the competition in its class. But you are trading after purchase service to get that low price. On the flip side there is a huge user community here and on the Facebook group that can help out diagnosing and solving almost any issue... but your fingers will do the wrenching. These bikes are excellent for people who can do basic bike maintenance. If something goes wrong you just replace the part or take it to a local bike shop for same. There aren't going to be any recalls. This is a Chinese product that uses industry-standard motors and controllers that are common in a 100-million-unit-strong domestic ebike marketplace. Bafang's motors are bulletproof and proven. KT's controllers are simple and widely (and cheaply) available. The throttles are similarly common animals made by Bafang or Wuxing. The LCD... again an old standby you can easily buy another of at a low cost. After that, its just normal bike parts. As for bike fixes. You do that yourself, or take it to a local bike shop. What else could there be? You can't ship a bike back to... anywhere. Its just not practical. The cost of replacing a broken part is generally far less than the trouble of shipping the bike to another location and back again. If you want that kind of customer service the likely best alternative is the Specialized line... but we are talking 9 grand a pop.
  5. Battery Upgrade

    That battery was released a couple of days ago. I'll quote part of the range testing report since the FB group where this was announced is closed and you can't link to it: https://electrobikeworld.com/products/lx52-triangle-battery-52v-175ah-samsung
  6. Perfect Vehicle Carrier for the Sonders Fatty

    I am still using my single motorcycle carrier. However something you don't see in the pics above (you see it but don't really perceive it until you are driving over varied terrain) is the loss of ground clearance. In @Jim Martin 's very last picture above, See how the rack angles down a bit? Now to put 2 and 2 together remember thats the overhang of the car, and you're going to be going up and down driveway ramps and similar undulations. What he's got there is pretty much OK. What I have, similarly, is ... pretty much OK (I drive an AWD compact SUV with slightly oversized tires, so good ground clearance). But something I learned about trailer hitches is they are often not installed level - the hitch mount face is not perpendicular to the ground, so the rack can angle down like you see above. If towing a trailer you don't care because you are connected to a hitch ball which rotates and is immune to the problem. Bike racks are another story and want a vertical mounting. My original hitch install angled downward significantly and I learned the hard way that this is normal for a lot of hitch designs. I ended up having to have some custom work done, and the truck shop who did same for me noted they see this problem all the time. Hitch 'kits' for your year/make/model are not as custom-tailored as you'd think (to make an already long story short). If you have a pickup with unaltered suspension, this is a non issue as pickup suspensions typically have a forward tilt. The motorcycle rack still works for me. However, when I get a few extra nickels to rub together I am buying a 1Up with the fat tire add-on kit. Same concept as the motorcycle carrier, but much cleaner and more compact. Folds up easily without the kind of stupid-long hinge required by a motorcycle carrier (I have one and don't use it) and most importantly it angles up for great ground clearance. https://www.1up-usa.com/product-category/bike-racks/
  7. Need help on bike rack - will Saris Freedom 2 work?

    Congratulations on your purchase! I thought you said that not fitting the rack was a dealbreaker? Its definitely not going to fit that rack. If you looked at that other thread, you can see I went with the motorcycle carrier, which has much more weight capacity and costs much less. Its also much easier to attach to the car. Takes literally about 30 seconds. With that said, its a good 5-10 minutes to strap my bike onto it. If bike carrying is a daily event that rack is not a good choice. The rack you have now has a weight limit of 60 lbs per bike. You are just *barely* under that limit with these ebikes.
  8. Sondors Customer Service?

    @Hari Seldon love the username :-)
  9. THIN - No tape in front wheel = flat tire

    The extra-long Schraeder valves are definitely a weird choice. Have you considered switching to Presta? On that extra-deep rim you can easily do a dual adapter (use the in-rim style adapter AND the screwdown style) together and then use Prestas with removable valve cores, and extenders. Or just pick extra-long valves which are sold standalone. I am currently building a fat bike with deep-triangular-profile 90mm carbon fiber rims so I am getting more familiar with the whole valve-extension thing. They're quite common.
  10. Any tall Sondors riders out there??

    I wouldn't even consider a wait. You are an outlier in terms of size and waiting for a company to produce a bike for a niche when they are still looking for big scores with new bikes that appeal to wide swaths of the marketplace is unlikely to yield a positive result. The next bike on the way is a full suspension mid drive ATB. After that, a light last-mile folder. I have had 120mm stems (you can typically find 130mm) and a variety of 400mm posts (alloy, cf and now a Thudbuster). I'd go alloy for longevity (the cf stuff did not last under constant daily use and my 230 lb weight). A post, stem and maybe a 35mm riser bar and you should be good to go. If nothing else you'll get some time in the saddle on an electric and learn what you like and don't like and then build from there. Once you understand the components available in the aftermarket its an easy build.
  11. Battery Upgrade

    @Raymundo DaVinci - not sure if you realize this, but the current crop of 20ah 48v triangle packs will not fit in the current-generation Sondors battery boxes without surgery via rotary tool (i.e. dremel) to carve away the recently added supports that hold the currently-in-use triangle batteries in place. If you have issues doing that, then you may want to wait a bit. @Lindsey Nguyen is in the process of developing a 17.5ah battery that will fit into the newer, smaller cavity. Contact her for a timeline to completion. Also, do you have the simple black throttle that does not have an on/off switch? Or the silver one with the battery lights and the on/off switch? (all 7-speed bikes have the black throttle in 2017. All previous-gen and current single speed bikes have the original silver one). If the former, then if you upgrade the controller you will also need to upgrade the throttle. Its only another $20 and the controller upgrade is well worth the money, but you asked about details so here's one you haven't heard yet.

    Couple more things to add to doing brakes above: the spin-it-while-a-little-loose tactic works great but instead of doing the tightening the way I describe, just baaarely snug up the bolts for the first go-round. Then let go of the lever and get down and put your eyeballs as close as possible to the pads so you are looking thru the caliper front to back and are seeing daylight (hopefully) on both sides of the rotor. Using your thumb and forefinger on just one of the caliper mounts, physically shift the already-barely-snug caliper so that, if its not perfectly in the middle of the available space, you make it so while looking at the situation directly (technically, there should be more slack on the outside side rather than the inside side, but lets try and just get the thing not to touch first off and that should be good enough... sidle it over a bit once you get the hang of this). You may need a pair of reading glasses or similar (I sure do) to be able to see properly. If the caliper is too close to the rotor to allow this hair of daylight on both sides, then backing that inner adjustor out a touch can make the difference you need, followed by re-centering it using one of the two above methods, or both of them. Lastly, tightening cables: You can buy all sorts of brake cable torture devices that purport to stretch the cable with one hand, while you clamp the cable bolt with the other. These tools are awful, usually result in a ruined/crushed cable and should be avoided entirely. To tighten a loose cable, just use your thumb and forefinger of one hand to slightly clamp the brake caliper (use the lever to see what moves, then do it with your hand on the caliper). Then with the brake partially engaged like this, tighten the cable and let go. In theory you are partially engaging the brakes which is bad. If you do it right you are doing the same job as the cable puller tool, but without tearing at the cable. Just don't over do how much you compress the caliper and its a 10-second low-impact easy-peasy way to cinch up a stretched cable.
  13. Hello everyone, new owner and i have some questions

    I have two of those, purchased from that same vendor on Ali, and they work great. You should be all set.

    Brake adjustment on mechanical disks is something of a black art. Its just not intuitive and when you get it right, the cables will stretch and then you get to do it over again. With that said, once you get a feel for it you can fix the associated issues without difficulty... but it never becomes a welcome task and frequency is accelerated because of the higher speeds and increased weights that come with electric bikes. Assuming you have not changed the rotor size and introduced issues with your spacing thataway, don't forget the inner pad adjustor that you have to reach thru the spokes to get at. Try a few turns in each direction (remember the click count) and see what happens. Remember you can loosen your brake caliper in its mount so it is somewhat loose, then spin the wheel and apply the brakes. Hold the lever down. This is the natural resting place for the brake caliper. Gently tighten each bolt alternately while holding the lever until its snug, then release the lever and again alternately and gently, tighten each bolt further. Take care not to torque the bolt hard enough to shift the caliper in its new resting place. Spin the wheel each time you gently tighten so you can see if you have screwed the process up and shifted it. Warped rotors will increase your misery index. Oddly for cheap brakes the Tektro rotors that come with Sondors are a)not available for sale and b) nice and thick. Actually very nice rotors. But if they warp, make your life easier and just buy replacements. Using a crescent wrench or rotor tool to try and straighten them is not worth the effort. In the end, a lot of us have gone to hydraulic brakes. They self-center over the pads and there are no cables to stretch. Stopping power on the basic models is no better but they should require zero maintenance after an initial fitting.
  15. Tire Pressure for Fold X

    Fat tires require low pressure. 20 psi may seem really low but its in fact rather high for the platform. Fat tire bikes were designed to operate at really low pressures and you can easily go to 15 and gain some shock absorption with little or no penalty to range (but feel free to experiment). Believe it or not you can go VERY low with surprisingly good results.

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