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MattRobertson last won the day on September 25

MattRobertson had the most liked content!

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About MattRobertson

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    Money > Brains

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  1. Only if the fender is about a half inch off the ground. Its just a hazard you have to live with. On that thorn/slime... consider you'd be walking otherwise. You got home. Something I didn't state earlier: I have been a Mr. Tuffy tire liner for like 30 years on bikes that saw up to 11000 miles per year as basic transportation. So... was a big fan. Fast forward a couple decades and I have been off the bike for many years. I get a Sondors and first thing I do is hold my nose and blow like $70 on Tuffy4XL for my fattie's tires. Then I start commuting and.... its one failure after another. This Tuffy is constructed differently than the narrow Tuffy I put in my 700x19c-23c tires back in the day (25C... THAT was a fat tire!). Its just not the same product. After taking nail after nail and having a success rate of ZERO. I held my nose once again and put in the hated Slime in my tires. One week I had 3 nails go in and the tire sealed each time. Once I noticed the tire had been going down a touch and figured I better inspect and sure enough... found a nail. When you have to go look to find nails... thats a product thats working. It had been a few months with no problems ... I was just beginning to think my luck was holding pretty good - and then that big blowout happened. Riding city streets, its a total crap shoot as to how flat free you are. I would always recommend Tuffy and against Slime but now the situation is reversed.
  2. Battery pack fuse didn't work

    @Fuzzy Bruce the Facebook Swap & Sell group usually has bottle batteries come up fairly frequently given all the members and all the people upgrading. Also replacement batteries are sold at electrobikeworld.com. I just bought an upgraded 48v bottle battery from there for Frankenbike which is now a dedicated cargo bike and needed some more oomph when it has 4 panniers and a basket fully loaded.
  3. Bike rack for Sondors Fold

    @Sunnie for a plug-and-play solution you can also use the Ibera Pakrak IB-RA5 - the same rack everyone is using for the Original models. You can mount it low using the low holes on the frame rather than using the rack bosses on the bottom. This will give it a better fit, but you can also use the rack bosses. Its your call and you will see the differences when you have the parts in front of you. You will need to use the brake spacers that come in the rack package unlike the folks who install without on the Originals.
  4. Only in one respect: There is so much more surface area touching the ground that you have more chance of running *over* something with your tire whereas with a skinny little road bike tire you would have maybe missed it. On my 26" bike I use 8 oz on each tire. Biknut's 6 oz number for the smaller version sounds good. 8 oz is a LOT and will last thru several punctures unless you hit something really nasty, and then you will be glad you have so much in there. Last week I hit something - never saw it - that put a 3/8" slice widthwise right across my tread center and thru my tube. I am guessing a sharp strip of steel. Blew slime everywhere but after a hundred yards and a quick stop, lift and throttle spin of the rear tire, it sealed. So I pump the tire back up (buy a Lezyne XL pump or perish in flames) to 20 psi and get going... 100 yds later it blows again. Rinse and repeat. It lasts longer each time until after the 4th blow it holds while I limp home at 15mph on 1/2 throttle while standing on the pedals to keep the bike's weight distribution as steady as possible. But it held. Post mortem teardown: the gash was so wide it almost was too big to patch. I had to use three applications of Shoe Goo to save the tire. The slime was still slowly leaking thru the tear... but it got me home. Thats the most extreme flat I have had since the 1980's when I had my rear tire shot out by a smartass cowboy. A story for another day. One thing you will find with fat bike tires: The big front tire kicks stuff up and straight into the oncoming rear tire. Nails in particular. If you are riding mean streets, its likely almost all of your flats are the rear tire.
  5. 25 amp controller in a Fold X

    Bushkey, this is what happens when you manufacture an ebike that actually tries to fit in under the power restriction laws. Very likely lawyers were involved who pointed out that speed laws do not expressly provide for electronically limiting wattage and - in the case of the KT controllers our bikes use, that limitation is imprecise at best. The beauty of the Sondors platform is you can go out and replace one more or less commonly available controller with another and more or less invisibly solve the regulatory issue. The Sondors controllers are 7a continuous, 15 amps max ... which is not robust as you have noticed. However, using nominal voltage on the 48v battery, 48v x 15 amps = 720 watts of final output. The US federally-mandated limit is "less than 750 watts" (not "750 watts" as commonly stated). The Rad-branded bikes, on the other hand, use the lower, 'continuous' rating on their controllers to do their math. Thats not going to fly if the government ever actually starts enforcing power limits, which apparently is becoming more likely; hence Sondors' conservative approach in 2017. Sondors is giving you the platform at a dramatic discount. Its an open platform that for another $65 or so will let you nearly double its final output. The best controller is up to you. You can go 20a or 25a. They are all made by the same manufacturer, just some have different guts and wiring connections. If I were you I'd follow Biknut's lead as these days the 25a controllers originally designated as 'Thin-compatible' are now compatible with all Sondors models. Sierra EBike's 'triangle-compatible' controllers have slightly different wire lengths but those are the ones you want. When you can get them in stock. Mine already shipped :-) And don't forget that, for a Fold, you also want to buy an LCD cable extension (green HIGO) and a PAS cable extension (yellow HIGO). Both are cheap and you can just barely live without them... but why suffer?
  6. ANSWERED How to Disable PAS (Pedal Assist System)

    The problem with this idea is your bike weighs about 60 lbs, which is roughly double that of a human-powered bike. If you want the authentic bicycle experience as if you also are not lugging around a useless motor and battery, consider riding at PAS1 which is just enough power to make the bike behave as if it didn't have all that extra machinery hanging on it. As Biknut has suggested above there is even a setting to reduce PAS power levels. Part of the problem I see is your ebike was not meant to be ridden as a bike... the drivetrain is adequate for an electric powered system whose acceleration comes from the axle and bypasses the drivetrain... but its not durable enough to take the beating of a human-powered bike... let alone the extra punishment of all the extra weight. The load when accelerating from a stop is going to be brutal on those parts.
  7. Battery Low Voltage

    It wouldn't by a long shot. Something else is going on. I have left my 36v bottle battery 'on' for many days to no ill effect. I've even done it on purpose to measure any difference in current drain on vs. off. I have found none. Furthermore, if your controller is on and there was some kind of drain - assuming the automatic-after-a-few-minutes-of-inactivity LCD shutoff also failed - the controller would shut your system down ad I believe 30v... to protect the battery. So with at least two methods of protecting the battery on the bike, we get to the BMS which is also supposed to shut down and protect the battery. It really sounds like a failure of something inside the battery. I wonder... have you checked your battery fuse? Since its a ceramic, you will have to test it with a meter. The manual charger trick would necessitate bypassing the BMS, but as I understand it from a similar discussion a short time ago, you can try it with the right plug and a dumb charger from olden times. But its dangerous if it goes wrong. Do it on the lawn in the middle of the back yard. Actually don't do it at all and forget you ever read this :-).
  8. September Shipments Europe

    I got the above delivery email... Says my daughter's X arrives in the Netherlands warehouse the week of October 2-6.
  9. Fold X LCD

    C8=1 - there is no temperature sensor inside the motor. it has been theorized we are seeing the teperature inside the controller. Either way if you set it to 0, something else more useful shows up in its place onscreen, IIRC. As you are figuring out, LCD settings can be fluid and there's room to experiment and personalize. Some useful bits: C5 = 0 is undocumented. It is full wattage but soft/slow start. Sneak that one in if its your kid's bike or you have hotrodded the bike and are uncomfortable with how hard it accelerates, but don't want to pull its fangs with one of the more aggressive power reduction settings. C1 is sensitivity of engagement for PAS (how much of an arc you have to move the pedal cranks to get some boost). Set it to 02 for the lowest sensitivity, 01 for 'normal' and 00 for fastest engagement. I have an AWD bike with two motors. I have the back motor set to C5=10 for max oomph off the line. But the front motor is set to C5=0 to keep me from doing front wheel power slides at stop lights when I mash both throttles. I also have set C1=01 for the rear wheel... and C1=00 for the front wheel. I already have the front wheel on soft start, but the increased sensitivity makes it kick in first. I found if I am holding onto a lamppost at a light to keep my feet in the pedals, the softer throttle and the faster front wheel engagement makes for a safer start when I am pushing off of said lamppost from a standing start.
  10. A Suspension seat post for the FoldX

    Seatposts are sized by their inside diameter in millimeters. The Fold is 30.9. Here is a dropper post in use by someone on their Fold. Not certain this is the same thing as a Suspension post. I do know the Cane Creek Thudbuster ST comes in 30.9 size and does not need a shim to fit. I use one of those on my Original and love it. https://www.ebay.com/i/112544703274
  11. desperate for fuse

    here.... this appears to be the same fuse, in stock from a San Jose CA shipper that adverts Fast & Free. Maybe you can explain your plight to them and get it faster. BTW these are also sold on Amazon but are marked as Not Available. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-5x20-mm-20A-250V-125V-Quick-Fast-Blow-Ceramic-Tube-Fuse-20-Amp-5mm-x-20mm-/272565850352?hash=item3f7630d0f0:g:iL8AAOSw4DJYlYPE https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009DP11ME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  12. desperate for fuse

    Bruce this is the fuse: http://r.ebay.com/ZJT4cf Here's the rub: The seller is 'Miami Electronics' and they are listed as 'away' on EBay. I think we both know why. the business is in Naples, FL. Maybe you can email them via this listing? You might also consider similar fuses with different ratings as a stopgap. There seem to be plenty of them online. Just not this one.
  13. desperate for fuse

    Checking on size now. We're talking bottle battery Original and not one of the new Triangle originals, right?
  14. Or just patch it. Rema Tip Top patches have been permanently fixing inner tubes for decades. Slime works miracles assuming the hole is on the outside. Even if its not your life will be simpler if you put some in. http://a.co/41iD7MD
  15. Front and rear racks and fenders for FOLD X

    I saw someone with an Ibera Pakrak IB-RA5 on their Fold. Same rack so many use on the Originals. You need to lower it fully and use the disk brake spacers.

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