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MattRobertson

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MattRobertson last won the day on January 21

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About MattRobertson

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  1. ANSWERED Sondors X seems to have died

    It seems you are having a Seldon Crisis. I would get on the Sondors Storm Owners Group on Facebook and tell the same story. There's a lot more eyeballs there and you are much more likely to find someone who has experience with this,. Given that you can "fully" charge the battery and the problem goes away temporarily, I would think the battery is where the suspicion lies. That or the charger not charging it up properly. What does the voltage say on the display when you start and when it starts going bad? It sounds like your cutting-out is the controller hitting the low-voltage cutoff. That typically behaves like this: Under throttle the bike dies. Dead. Then it comes back. Then its dead. You pedal it home and PAS cuts in after a bit and then cuts in/out until its done for good. Current sag and load explains the behavior. The throttle causes maximum load and the battery current level sags temporarily as a result, until it hits the low voltage cutoff and kills power to protect the battery (full discharge is fatal to a li-ion battery). PAS is less demanding, especially at lower PAS levels. So you can limp home on PAS1 for far longer than you can on PAS5 or throttle. The normal current sag will cause the bike to touch that cutoff point, then climb above it, then touch it again and so on until its to the cutoff point period.
  2. Sounds like you blew the battery fuse. Look for the fuse port on the triangle battery, open it up and check it. edit: You can use other chargers so long as you pay attention to amperage and most especially cutoff voltage. If your charger cuts off higher than its supposed to, worst case your battery could literally explode.
  3. ANSWERED THIN Tire Info

    Those are really interesting. Never seen anything that clean for a Schraeder valve. But as noted above, its a big if whether they will fit. I use a presta rim-side adapter with a screw-side adapter on top. Overkill but whats worth doing is worth overdoing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO5ICG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/Panaracer-Schrader-Valve-Presta-Valve-Presta-Valve/dp/B001CJZ2M4/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1515458139&sr=1-4&keywords=presta+rim+adapter Then, I use Presta tubes with removable valve cores. THOSE can accept Presta valve extensions and when you have that in hand the world opens up to you in terms of new kinds of tubes you can use. However, for a 28" x 1.5" tire (the current Thin Sondors spec) you probably don't need to spend anything for extensions as tubes are already made for deep dish rims. https://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_odkw=28"+inner+tube&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H1.X28"+x+1.5"+presta+inner+tube.TRS0&_nkw=28"+x+1.5"+presta+inner+tube&_sacat=0
  4. 29" Slime Self Healing Tube for Sondors Thin

    You can skrunch the tube some to make it fit, but Sondors tires are 28" From the Sondors web site @ https://sondors.com/products/sondors-thin-us-only-preorder You can make it work but you will have a bigger risk of a pinch flat and a wobble in the tire from a bunched up tube if you don't get it quite right.
  5. L 48 min Volt

    Absent any other decent sounding advice to the contrary, Luna Cycle recommends you charge to full capacity for the first six charges to ensure the pack balances and the cells achieve full voltage. Thats very likely what you experienced if this is all new stuff. Normal. After those first six charges, if you are of a mind to preserve battery life you charge to only 80%, with occasional charges to 100% to re-balance the pack. I charge twice daily and do a balance charge to 100% once a month.
  6. Off The Strand, Southern California Beaches

    Wow I think thats the best fender fit for this bike that I've seen yet.
  7. L 48 min Volt

    54.6 is the proper peak voltage for a 52v 48v battery that uses a 13S pack. thats calculated by multiplying the commonly accepted max voltage of an 18650 cell (4.2v) times the number of cells in series, which is USUALLY 13. So 4.2*13 = 54.6v However, a very few 48v packs use a 12S layout. thats a peak of 50.4. I've never heard of anyone with a Sondors pack peaking at 50.4... so I'm going to assume Sondors uses the standard 48v battery pack build. If you are peaking at 52.x, that is either a) your charger cutting off early, which honestly is a good thing for pack longevity... you are cutting off somewhere between 81-89%. Read the label on your charger to see if thats where its cutoff is. b) your battery has lost some of its capacity. This happens to every battery and charging to lower voltage peaks (i.e. the often-cited '80%') just puts off that eventual loss of capacity. If you have a new-ish pack, you might see this more quickly than you should because you are charging to 100% and letting the bike sit overnight or longer like that, or you are draining the battery waaaaay down... or you are charging at higher amperage rates ( 3+ ) and heating up the pack Doing multiples of the above will just accelerate the process further.
  8. As many know, Sondors is using a new LCD display screen. I have been hunting around for something more than what we already know from playing with it (which is next to nothing) and... Here it is: http://key-display.com/content/?162.html Ladies and gentlemen, meet the Tianjin Key-Disp Technology Co., Ltd. KD51C: There is a complete instruction manual that you can download here. NOTE IT HAS EXACTLY THE SAME ISSUES AS THE KT-LCD3 MANUAL HAS - ENGLISH IS NOT THEIR FIRST LANGUAGE! Expect difficulty understanding it. Just like the KT-LCD3, this manual has a password engagement setting in its programming and if its anything like the KT-LCD3, you can brick your display if you play with this and screw up... so don't say you weren't warned. Other than that... Mystery solved and have fun with it. Sorry but I don't have one of these displays so I can't do any testing or debugging of the various settings.
  9. @buckshot: post a pic of the part. There are no such diagrams. We're going to have to see the part in question and then I can forward that pic on to see what the verdict is.
  10. A1111 LCD

    You are not alone in this observation. There has been some theorizing that the newer models have understated amperage numbers on their labels, much like Mopar muscle cars of the 1960's often had understated horsepower ratings.
  11. A1111 LCD

    @Myeamans I pulled this description from a post my @Houshmand Moarefi on the Facebook group:
  12. Stock Sondors LCD

    Thats the first I have heard of Folds and Originals of the current generation having different comm protocols. I do know for certain that all 2017 Sondors models can share LCDs. You do have to change some of the programming settings but otherwise they all work... partly because they all use the same 7a/15a controller (the Fold model is in a different casing).
  13. There are a lot more eyeballs on the Sondors Owners Buy and Sell Group. Go to Facebook and search for Sondors Storm Owners Group. You should find that and the companion Buy And Sell group.
  14. A1111 LCD

    @DjAdams It turns out Tom French's story is a typical one now. Used to be LCDs were delayed by often just one day from the bike delivery. Now it seems a couple weeks is typical and they are the new version. If you want to break the speed limiter, at present the only option is to tell it you have a 20" wheel or similar... the smallest it will allow you to specify. Other elements of the display will be out of whack as a result but thats the only way known so far if you want to speed up. Alternatively you can still buy an aftermarket controller and display. ALSO: While this was all going on I discovered the KT-LCD3U, and an obscure USA vendor. the 'U' is the same display as we've been using for about two years but it has a built in USB charge port. Several owners are waiting on trial purchases to see if it works as expected. Point being there are still good options out there and you now have a display that owners of older unmodified Sondors actually want to buy second-hand.
  15. Which Sondors Bike???

    @FLGibsonJr Sorry I missed your post until now. I dropped the weight pretty quick, but it was also a function of effort on my part. I ride 30 miles a day and I put a lot of effort into pedaling. AND I put in bigger gears so I can add to the propulsion effort at speed as opposed to clown pedaling while the motor does the work. Maybe three months? I was riding hard and at speed (still am). The key is to not use the bike as if its a motorcycle. Stay off the throttle and just use PAS so its NOT enough to push the bike as fast as your feet can pedal it. Makes you work up to your target cadence. Treat the bicycle as an exercise machine. Use it for transportation not special pleasure cruises. Need it to go places. With that motivation and with it fitting into your existing life (transportation) as opposed to making time to exercise, you'll drop weight (fat) and gain it right back (muscle). I actually look quite a bit different now than the weight loss indicates. The 'X' is definitely worth considering. I bought two of them for my daughter and son-in-law to ride together. However, if you are a DIY upgrader type then its not a good buy. For $499 (assuming you can get one of the last low-cost ones) plus shipping, then adding a big controller and powerful battery - you can come in around the same price and have a lot more bike.
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