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MattRobertson

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MattRobertson last won the day on July 21

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About MattRobertson

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  1. Assuming you correctly lifted the speed limiter, the only other explanation would be you have maxed out the capability of your bike. But 25 kph might be a little low. Maybe. I am about 106 kg and with my 36v battery and 20a Luna aftermarket controller I can reach 30 to 32 kph. So if you have the stock 15a controller, maybe thats your upper limit? Its all about weight on the bike. Another factor would be if you have a rack and its loaded with tools etc. that stuff adds up. edit: Also tire pressure is a limiting factor. If you have aired down the tires, air them back up to about 1.4 bars and re-test. And spin your wheels. Do they spin freely and take a long time to stop if spun by hand while up in the air? If not you may need to loosen up the axles as many bikes come from the factory with their axles too tight on the bearings. Youtube videos show the problem and how to fix. Lastly make sure the brakes are not rubbing.
  2. The problem SEEMS to be related to seating the battery firmly in the cradle. As in do that. Doesn't happen to everyone but you see a report of this about once or twice a month in the Facebook group (about 6000 members). Some can repair theirs or adjust them / clean them up, and some get melting to the point where it requires a cradle replacement. Just keep an eye on it, adjust as needed and be careful as to battery seating. Possibly if you slam into a pothole or run thru some washboard on a dirt road pull over and check it. Can't really be any more concrete than that..
  3. Either you are one bad dude and are really honking on those pedals, or something is wrong with that chain (i.e. it sucked). Only 850 miles on a chain is peanuts. I have put on almost exactly 2000 miles on mine since I added it in Mid-March. Same one you have just not painted white. My chain tool is still not showing any measurable wear (has't dropped on the 0.75 side yet using the tool below). So if you trash this next one just as fast, something different is probably tripping you up. My riding style, however, has been altered to fit an ebike. I do not stomp hard on the pedals. I use PAS to let the bike get up to speed. Think of it as a freight train (having 29.5ah of batteries online, two motors and weighing in at about 80 lbs before I climb on, it is one). I don't start really working until I can put some serious cadence on the pedals at 24-28mph using my 16T rear sprocket and my 58T front chainring. So while I am pedaling hard and fast, I'm not beating the hell out of the drivetrain trying to drag it up from a standing stop. I'm pretty sure that preserves the lifespan of components that would be considered low-end if they were on a human-powered bike. Add on one of these cheapie chain tools to your cart next time you buy something at Amazon. Just drop it on the links and get an answer in an instant. http://a.co/fIaUC3z
  4. You can't ship the battery in checked baggage. The FAA requires lithium-ion batteries to be carried in carry-on baggage only. Batteries 101-160 watt hours are limited to one plus two spares, which is why Grin Technologies made their new stackable LiGo batteries the size they did...98 watt hours to make it under the quantity limits.
  5. Get a 52v battery instead of a 48v and you'll get a little more oomph out of it. Take it to the next level and instead of upgrading to 48/52v gear, loook at the Electrobikeworld 60v battery and compatible LCD and controller. Now you have a 17.5ah battery capable of punching you up to 40 mph. edit: At that 60v power level though I would give serious consideration to putting it in a new wheel thats better suited to a 2500w output system rather than the 650w or so that the stocker contemplated when it left the factory.
  6. Strongly recommend you confirm with the vendor that its a threaded freewheel motor before they ship. I bought my threaded 750 from that vendor and they did correspond with me and were extremely good to deal with. My motor arrived with a damaged casing and they actually expressed a replacement to me. A Chinese vendor with that kind of vendor rating earned it and proved that with me.
  7. Clearly Bafang has changed their product line as all of the fat motors on their site are now cassettes and they all are 175mm axles. However EBay vendors still are selling both 'cassette' and 'threaded' styles. I am guessing that won't last forever. Or not. What you see on the Bafang web site is by no meas their full repertoire. For example you will not find the 750w fat front motor there at all. Also Passion EBike is selling a 190mm 350w threaded version on AliExpress, and a 500w front motor version has been seen in the wild as well. You just have to look... and keep looking. If you want a cassette motor... you got one :-) One thing though... is that an alloy outer casing? The Bafang logo looks like the machined aluminum version you normally see only on the 750's and some of the 500's. Generally the 350w and 250w motors had plastic outer casings. the alloy casings shuck heat better and thus are more desirable. Plus of course they look nicer. If you decide to try again, I suggest asking the vendor up front if the motor is threaded for a freewheel or includes a cassette body.
  8. Remember though that motor has the 190mm axle. You will have to spread your chainstays, which is certainly not difficult but needs careful doing. If you want to keep single-speed gearing (I did after my upgrade) you will need to install a spacer like the one here: https://www.ebikekit.com/products/freewheel-spacer-for-1-speed The 750w motor is the upgrade of choice by far. You don't need it and you will not get any performance gains by just changing the motor, but you will have a motor that is even more overbuilt than the one you have now. Its the forever-survivable-no-matter-what-i-upgrade solution. HOWEVER you will need to spend about US$100 to get a controller for it. Thats not necessary with the 350 and one of the two models of 500w motors. The 750 has a different sized plug.
  9. Didi, That motor is a drop-in. It just looks like all you have to do is get the planetary gears to mesh with the gear on the outside edge of the inner casing. It takes a little jiggering and a good careful thunk and it will fit into your existing housing. All the Bafang fat motors have dimensionally identical, interchangeable casings unless that has changed recently. Once you get past that you have to deal with the fact that you goofed and bought a 7-speed cassette compatible motor (190mm wide axle) instead of the 1-3 speed freewheel version (175mm axle). You can do a 7-speed conversion for sure and get yourself more functionality, or you can sell this motor on and just buy the right motor. I will skip the 7-speed conversion discussion for now. Luna used to sell complete 350w motor cores for about $150. No more. Probably cuz they never seem to wear out. Looks like your wrecked your cable. BTW go buy a Fisher Fabrication House motor protector to solve that problem. This vendor is very reliable and this is the motor you should have bought :-) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Risunmotor-48V-350W-Bafang-Brushless-Gear-Threaded-Fat-Bike-Rear-Hub-Motor-175mm/332295413857?_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D8fd233ca0ba542eea382df17d961958f%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D47%26sd%3D232088804917 Sorry for the bad news... its only bad if you don't want to do a 7-speed upgrade :-)
  10. I use M5 socket caps on my fattie. M5 is the standard size for frame bosses for bottles/racks.
  11. You can use an entirely different kind of shifter, too. Search for this on Fleabay: "Shimano Tourney SL-TX30 Shifter Set 3X7Speed Left Right MTB Bike Thumb Shifters" Just use the left 3x shifter for your rear gears. Its a friction shift so not a click-stop deal (my personal preference but maybe not yours). Ten bucks delivered to a U.S. address. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Shimano-Tourney-SL-TX30-L-3-R-7-Speed-Shift-Lever-Shifter-Bike-Bicycle-Part/272616133353?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D45041%26meid%3D6ba07af430ab446ebbdc4aff94444e3a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D291669617565&var=571736343608 I am very much not a fan of cutting off or otherwise monkeying with the grips as I like a very specific type of endurance grip that is kinder/gentler on my palms and wrists.
  12. OK that blue battery came from Lindsey Nguyen and electrobikeworld. And since its a blue triangle that means we don't have to sweat the battery cradle issue. Which in turn means that very likely you are correct and the problem lies solely with the controller - assuming something odd like a simple cable fault is not in the picture. I will reach out to Lindsey and let her know this thread exists. Perhaps she can help where I can't. Either way I THINK the fact that you have a replacement controller on the way is likely to be a correct move to fix the problem. Certainly its the next step to take absent any other spare parts on hand. Total worst case is the motor itself is fried - very unlikely - and that too can be replaced via Luna (or upgraded but thats getting into some real money). But don't get ahead of yourself. Plug in the controller and see if that does it for you. with luck you have just given that bike a nice performance boost.
  13. I am away from home and don't have any of my bike stuff near me, but '12a' sounds unusually low for amperage on an aftermarket controller. Does the display show a 'Sondors' brand across the top? I am wondering if you have a stock controller/display and an upgraded battery. How do you know its a 48v battery? Is it a 48v bottle battery or a 48v triangle battery? If its a bottle the battery cradle contacts can be where the problem is. Sometimes you will find one that is more or less welded halfway depressed and you need to either take it apart and fuss with it or, if its partially melted and not repairable, replace the cradle. A bad cradle is a lot more common than a bad controller, unfortunately. On the plus side, the 20 controller is much more powerful... except if you have a Sondors display it may not work with it.
  14. On the plus side, the wait is relatively short compared to what early adopters faced. I have no room to complain as I bought at the end of last year when Sondors experimented with keeping limited stock on hand in SoCal... I waited a week from order to delivery
  15. Indeed, but this is an admitted carrier/program. Markel American Insurance Co. Policy specimen is here. https://velosurance.com/files/specimen_policy.pdf Red flags for me were the advertised Stated Value basis and the usual caveats that go with that. Regardless of that, the contract language is ACV which does not conform to the advertising. I questioned them closely on that (my company offers Agreed Value exclusively so I'm well aware of the pitfalls of ACV and Stated Value) and the firm impression I got was with the value of ebikes being what they are they aren't looking for a fight on valuation. In part because its small potatoes. A stock Original isn't even going to make their minimum value. So long as you can point to firm costs for the bike or parts you should be good. Noteworthy is the fact the bike must be locked to an 'immovable object' or no coverage if stolen and away from your primary garage. Exclusion 11 was the only real eyebrow-raiser given that Sondors has come out in a blog post saying 'all mods that we didn't sell you are bad' but again, after detailed discussion they seem to have a good real-world appreciation of cycling. If a policy is your thing I'd say give them a call and put them thru your own Q&A.