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DIABOLUS

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Everything posted by DIABOLUS

  1. SELLER'S NOTE: I'm getting an error when I try to upload images to this page, so I am linking the Craigslist ad which has the pictures of the bike. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/bik/d/los-angeles-sondors-thin-electric/6972293198.html I purchased this bicycle as part of Sondors' Indiegogo campaign. This bicycle has served me as reliable daily transportation and has 2k miles on the odometer. While it does show minor signs of wear (minor scratches, wear on seats/grips, and some yellowing of battery box), it is still a clean and very good-looking bike that runs reliably, strong, and true.I've put a number of modifications to the bicycle over the years including:Official SONDORS LCD displayOfficial SONDORS spring fork203mm front disc rotor (includes new caliper bracket)203mm rear disc rotor (includes new caliper bracket)3-speed cassette (no derailleur included)56T crankset (includes new nickel-plated chain)BMX handlebarsBMX riserBMX gripsNew, custom-length brake cablesSchwalbe Presta valve tire tubes (front/rear)All electrical components of the bicycle (motor, battery, controller) are completely original SONDORS that came with the bike. I am also including the following with the bike:Official SONDORS battery charger,Official SONDORS battery keys (2) with key codeExtra tire tubeChain breaker toolDrift for crankset disassemblyVarious allen wrenches.No locks or cables will be included with the bike. Serious buyers only. Cash only, local pickup only in the Los Angeles area (Hollywood). No test rides without cash in hand. Private Message me on the forum if you are interested, as personal information such as phone numbers and email addresses are not allowed in open forum to protest members.
  2. I bought my Thin to go fast! I'm lucky if I get 15 miles per charge lol. But I don't run the battery to 0%, so I could probably squeeze about 17 miles or so out of mine.
  3. What are the performance benefits of dropping a 750W motor into the 350W hub? Twice the speed, but half the range? (Assuming you kept the stock battery?)
  4. Yeah, I didn't specify, but you would need the adapters that correspond to the larger rotors. But aside from that, you don't need to do any modifications to the fork or frame itself.
  5. No, the 203mm rotors fit without any modifications whatsoever. It's a damn tight fit when it comes to clearing the fork and the kickstand, but both rotors fit with about .100" clearance which is plenty. I've put plenty of miles on the bike since the conversion and have not had any issues with the rotors gouging the fork or frame. Bike has been running great the last two months. The mechanical brakes are more than adequate so I doubt I'll be upgrading to hydraulic. The bike is just not as fast as I was led to believe it would be following the 3-speed conversion, so I don't see myself investing much more money into it, even when it comes to motor, controller, batteries, etc. If anything, I actually see myself converting the bike back to a single speed. I currently only use the tall gear all the time to get around. Was having some derailleur adjustment issues and the chain was jumping off the tall gear and jamming itself between the gear and the frame. Left it in the tall gear with the intention of adjusting the derailleur later, when I noticed I never felt like I needed to switch into my lower two gears. I've gotten used to the feel of the heavy gear, so I'll probably be switching to a single speed freewheel, shortening the chain and ditching the shifter/derailleur. Another thought that's been bouncing around my head: I love my Sondors. It gets me places quickly and with minimal exertion. But it's damn heavy, and I don't feel comfortable leaving it unattended for more than even a minute or two. So there's a lot of places I can't go to with my Sondors and opt to walk instead. So I'm thinking about buying a dirty, cheap, used bicycle. Maybe a 20" BMX or a fixie. Something that costs no more than $50-$75, is covered with stickers, superficial rust, etc. that I can use as a backup transportation to the Sondors. The BMX would be nice to take onto the subway since it will be small and light. Probably leaning toward that style of bike.
  6. I'm also on a Thin, and used the same components the other individual did. To get any more top speed out of my bike I would have to look at upgrading the electricals, which is something I don't really plan on doing until one of those components fails first.
  7. I have a 56T front with the 16-19-22 rear, but haven't really been able to get the bike past 22 mph on level ground. I don't know how the last guy hit 44 mph on a downhill (must have been a hell of a hill) but all the 3-speed conversion has done for me is allow me to pedal slower at my top speed. It doesn't allow me to pedal up to 25-27 mph as I had hoped. I'm honestly thinking of converting back to a single speed and cleaning up the look of the bike. The conversion hasn't produced the results I was led to believe that it would.
  8. The suspension forks I got for my Thin have a lot of resistance to them and barely compress under any load. Hopefully yours work a little better.
  9. I'm looking to eventually upgrade to these for my white Thin: http://www.motobicycles.com/artikeldetails-en/kategorie/pedals/artikel/reflex-pedal-white.html I've bashed my shins more than enough times with the stock pedals, but pedaling efficiency is not my primary goal with switching them out.
  10. Thanks @Tabletteer, link says they're for Tektro V-brakes, but I'm assuming it's a standard bolt that is used across various styles of brake systems?
  11. I can't seem to find the cable pinch bolt (and the tiny curved piece) that affix the cable to the actuating arm on the caliper. Does anyone know of a website where I can buy these parts individually instead of dropping another $40 on a caliper? I was thinking about upgrading to hydraulic brakes anyway but would like to try out the mechanical brakes on my 203mm rotors first to decide if it's warranted. Thanks.
  12. Some shots I took just before another shakedown ride:
  13. Got a local shop to remove the stripped bolts, and installed the larger rotor. It's a close fit, but there are no interference issues. The minor deflection of the rotor from caliper operation actually pushes the rotor inward, away from the fork. Cut my front brake line and shortened my rear brake line slightly. Went to dial in my front brake line when I discovered the cable pinch bolt on the front caliper is missing altogether. Double-checked all my parts and tools, and it's definitely missing. So I took the pinch bolt off the rear caliper to set the front end up for now. Also trimmed my shifter cable to length and put a crimp ferrule on the end.
  14. Page 7 of the 3-Speed Conversion thread has all the conversion parts I used on my Thin:
  15. Installed my star nut in the steerer tube and got the front end all tightened up. Rode the bike to a local shop, where I was hoping they could extract the two stripped front rotor bolts. They didn't want to touch it, however, because it was a potentially time consuming job that they couldn't charge more than $10 - $20 for. So I'll be calling around to other shops to see if someone else will do it. Bike rides great otherwise. The riding position with the BMX bars makes me feel like I'm 10 years old all over again. The front suspension fork is pretty stiff and doesn't compress noticeably, even with the lockout switched off. The low gear feels identical to the stock configuration; a little heavy, but still very possible to pedal in full manual mode if necessary. The two higher gears reduce the pedaling effort noticeably. Without putting any effort whatsoever, I can cruise at 20 mph easily in the high gear. Haven't tried going any faster because I don't have the use of my front brake at the moment. Once I get it sorted I'll be able to give it a proper shakedown run.
  16. Ah, ok. Checking it a little more delicately my tension is probably around 1.5" top to bottom before the adjuster wants to move. Axle is currently about 1/4" shy of the forward-most position. As always, your input is much obliged.
  17. @Tabletteer when I press up or down on the lower part of the chain, the derailleur pivots inward, allowing me to move the chain much more than an inch in either direction.....? EDIT: Keeping the derailleur fixed I currently have about 2" of travel between top and bottom positions....so should take out a link or two? Or just move the axle rearward a bit?
  18. Got my suspension fork finally: And cut my steerer tube down to size: New front end installed: Waiting on a new star nut to come in before I can tighten the headset in place. Clearance for the 160mm front rotor is very tight, but I should still be able to run a 203mm rotor as well. I should be getting that in the next few days. Once I confirm what size rotor I'll be running, I will cut my front brake cable to length. Have to play around with the electrical cable routing. My left brake sensor cable was a few inches to short with the original routing I had envisioned. If I can find a 6" extension cable (if such a thing exists) it would leave me more than enough slack. Or I might relocate the LCD display from the crossbar to the lower part of the handlebars themselves. I haven't decided yet. Does anyone have recommendations on what I can use to retain my rear axle assembly in the dropouts? With a derailleur installed I can no longer tension the rear end like on a stock Sondors.
  19. Okay, I've finally gotten my digital tire pressure gauge and I'm looking to inflate the tires on my THIN to achieve that magical 15% drop that is supposed to be ideal. But crunching the numbers online seems to get me wildly different numbers, depending on the website, so what would you recommend? Bicycle weight: 46 lbs. (distributed 20 / 26 between the wheels) Rider weight: 120 lbs. Tire width: 38mm Bicycle + Rider weight: 166 lbs. (distributed 60 / 106 between the wheels) Weight distribution (F/R): 36/64% ... http://psicalculator.com/ only lets me calculate for 35/65% weight distribution (29 psi / 54 psi), or 40/60% (33 psi / 50 psi). Averaging the two would get me something in the neighborhood of 31 psi / 52 psi for my tire pressures. http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-pressure-calculator.html only lets me calculate for 40/60% weight distribution, and for a tire width of 37mm and yields results of 30 psi / 40 psi. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.edisongauss.bertotirepressure&feature=search_result#?t=W251bGwsMSwyLDEsImNvbS5lZGlzb25nYXVzcy5iZXJ0b3RpcmVwcmVzc3VyZSJd is an App for Android that, after putting in the variables, yields 55 psi / 88 psi! Does anyone know of a more accurate calculator, or what pressures I should be running? I don't want to blow out my new tubes before I've had a chance to break them in. Thanks.
  20. The tires on my Thin have are currently installed, but not fully inflated, so I'm taking measurements as best as I can using a set of calipers. Outer width of rim = 0.835" Width of wheel lip = .125" Inner rim width = .835 - .125 - .125 = .585" Width between seat stays when wheel is at its forward-most position = 2.17" Width between chain stays when wheel is at its forward-most position = 2.28" Hope any of this helps.
  21. Happy Thanksgiving to all. Had to work the holiday and saw a Sondors Fat parked right outside my work as I was walking in. Didn't have time to chat with the owner unfortunately.
  22. Got my Dremel tool in and I've been cutting my rear lines to length. Didn't realize until I was setting up by shifter cable that using the left side shifter for the rear derailleur means it will work in reverse; pulling the shifter cable (moving it toward the "+" direction) will actually pull the chain onto the larger cog, which means it will actually be downshifting. In its neutral state it springs outward, toward the smallest (highest) gear. Crunching some gear ratios real quick: Stock ratio = 40:16 = 2.5 Using my 56T chainring and my 16-19-22 freewheel I get the following ratios: 56:22 = 2.55 56:19 = 2.95 56:16 = 3.50 So my lowest gear is comparable to the stock ratio, with two higher gears for higher speeds. Exactly what I was hoping for. Cut a slot into one of my stripped front rotor bolts, and the damn thing still won't budge. Going to take it to a shop and have them professionally removed. I'm done fighting with them. No word yet on my suspension fork.
  23. Hi Ryan, if you read through this thread you'll find that there's actually a couple different 3-speed conversions that have been done in different ways, some more successfully than others, some with an eye toward top speed, and others with more focus on lower gearing for better hill climbing. Good luck!
  24. Crankset and tire pump finally came in... 56T crankset is a beast compared to the stock unit. Derailleur and crankset installed. Need to get an 8mm allen socket so I can torque it down properly. Installed longer bolts on the derailleur and adjusted them so the range of movement aligns perfectly with the smallest and largest gears. Pedals and chain installed. Currently have 130 links installed as a reference point for chain adjustment. When combining the two chains I had an issue with links seizing but I was able to loosen them up and the crank now spins freely without skipping. Waiting on a Dremel tool to come in so I can cut my shifter and rear brake cables. Cant do the front until my suspension fork comes in, which I'm still waiting on. No word yet from Sondors on that order. Riding position feels good with the slammed stem and BMX bars. Can't wait to get this thing back on the road!
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