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  1. Reddy, agree 100% the lack of mid-drive info and accessibility is unfortunate. There isn't even much data available on Bafang's BESST programming tool and software functionality other than it's what you need to calibrate a new controller to the motor. It would seem logical that the 5 setting used the 1,3,5,7 and 9 values of the 9 settings, and the 3 setting used 1,5 and 9. However, to my butt in the saddle, in 9 settings, 1 and 2 "feel" the same in both 5 and 9 mode, and perhaps there might be a small difference in 3 -- but 3's already so strong it's tough to confirm on level ground. So far, the most I've ever used in 5 mode other than initial test ride on level pavement has been 3, and that was for hilly mountain paved roads. Also in fairness, I have never ridden it in 9 mode long enough to make any certain claims beyond the fact that level 1 and 2 feel the same and 1 seems too much for me for level pavement in either 5 or 9, and why I'd like a 1 option that was about half to two-thirds what it is now. Admittedly this is a trivial issue overall -- it's more me wanting to tweak mechanical things to better meet my needs... That said, I have to add that in 1 mode on relatively level city roads, I only use about 3% of power for every 5 miles, giving me almost 150 miles of cruise range, so maybe it's me that needs to simply accept Sondors pre-engineered logic, adjust my thinking and enjoy the ride LOL! (For thread posterity and any folks interested, riding it in moderately hilly Sierra mountain terrain on one trip, I used a combo of 2 and 3 in 5-mode, and for a couple longer steep grades in 3, I also added a soft-touch of throttle during the climb, which I suspect bumped me up to an average of 4 or so on the 5 scale. With that usage, I burned about 2% power per mile, for around a 50 mile range.) PS: I am 6'-6" and weigh 250# -- that's relevant to e-bike power usage discussions
  2. Interesting. Did the reference cite what the 5 levels were?
  3. I understand most Bafang controllers allow for user re-programming the assist percentages at each assist level. However with the Rockstar, there does not seem any obvious way to do this. I assume one needs to hack into the programming to accomplish it. Has anybody done this and/or know how to attempt it? For me, assist level 1 is too high for level terrain and I would like to lower it and 3 is about right for moderate hilly roads and 2 is in-between; I'd like to lower 2 to about 1's position and cut 1 back by about a third to half. This is running in the 5-level mode. I have tried the 9-level setting and unfortunately the amount of assist from 1 seems the same as it is in 5-level. In 3-level, 1 feels about 33% stronger than the 5-level setting, so the wrong direction. These are perceptions only, not any scientific measurements, nor have I seen any documentation as to what the actual assist percentages are, at least for the Rockstar. I do understand that Sondors had a hand in custom programming for smoother power deliver from the 620 drive and suspect this is why we are locked out of altering it.
  4. I'm sure it's possible and even likely to make something like that work. I assume you're wanting it for exercise? If it is an exercise option you're considering, I personally think bike trainers are more ideally suited to competitors who can train better by being on the same bike they'll be racing. In my own case, we have a dedicated stationary bike for indoor riding, and in my opinion only, it's a far more convenient and stable indoor solution than a trainer. On the other hand, if you're already parking your e-bike indoors, then maybe it's a viable alternative -- and could possibly double as a repair/maintenance stand -- ???
  5. As an update, I scrapped my rear Portland Mud shovel referenced above. It flopped around a lot and occasionally the rear tire caught the lip when the rear was under compression m-- nothing horrible, but annoying. I got one of the SKS rears shown above and like it a lot more, though admittedly it isn't quite as wide as the tire through the mid section, so we will see how well it works. I do like the Portland front option so it stays.
  6. Quick update for thread posterity. The Bafang lighting leads arrived today so I was able to accurately test and confirm output voltages. In contrast to published specs I found: 1) The front light output is apparently 12 volts, though it actually floats a little between 12.4 and 13.7, so this may open up some additional options I had not previously considered. It's also very likely being transformed internally off the main battery as Li+ cells are nominally 3.7 volts each, so it's not a 3 or 4 bank tap. This could mean there is more power available here than I initially suspected, however the wires are small, like 22 ga, so I remain skeptical. *(See below -- and please correct me if my calculations are in error!) 2) The rear light output is 3.7 volts -- which actually makes some sense, and is interesting in that it opens up the possibility or hard-wiring into almost any 2-cell or rechargeable rear LED. *22 awg can carry 1.5 amps, 1.5 amps at 12 volts is 18 watts, and 18 watts translates to around a 1200 lumen load for sustained LED output. 1000 would probably be safer and 1000 Lumens isn't really very much light... It could in fact be 20 awg that could carry nearly twice the 22, so maybe more light-viable... Regardless, it may ultimately make more sense to use this tap for one of the inexpensive 12v to USB (5v) converters to power an additional accessory or charger. As of now, I am relatively happy with my rechargeable battery pack front light, so will not likely head down this particular rabbit hole.
  7. I ordered the Portland Mud Shovel strap-on front and seat-post rear fenders and am happy with them so far, but have not yet had them in any heavy mud. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B81G1WF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WZQJ93R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I added a top-bar cell-phone bag -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KWLZ5TM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's pretty nifty and plenty of room for my tools, CO2 air and front light remote battery pack, and enough room left over I can squeeze a lightweight rain shell in -- and it holds my big iPhone. You will need a piece of velcro to extend the length of the rear strap to fit around the top tube, but the front strap fits easily. I started a new thread with my lighting update in case others have newer or better info...
  8. I have good news and bad news. First the good. If you remove the plastic cover on the top left of the drive unit (3 Phillips screws) you will uncover main body of the M620 wiring harness. In it, you will find two blue and currently unused connectors; one is for the front light, the other for the rear light, like so: The next piece of good news is you can buy the pair of harness lead kit here: https://www.greenbikekit.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Bafang+MAX+M400%2F+Ultra+M620%2F+M420%2F+M300+mid+motor+headlight%2Ftail+light+cables(a+pair) -- $7.95 plus about the same for shipping. I went ahead and ordered a set, but doubtful I'll ever bother. Which brings me to the bad news... In my research, these Bafang output leads are for 6 volt lighting and it appears they are also only rated at 0.5 amp(!) load -- I have not confirmed that, but the only Bafang plug-in light I can find is rated as such. So first hurdle was finding a wired 6 volt system that will output adequate light, and frankly I've had poor luck. The one Bafang compatible unit I've found is a meek 300 Lumen front light with an el-cheapo wire loop for a threaded fork fender mount hole. There are a few for the Bosch system that look decent and 6 volt compatible, but only 500 Lumens which still seems too meager. Most other lights I've found for pre-wired systems have fewer features and limited output and/or are also significantly more expensive than fuller-featured rechargeable units. This may in fact be why Sondors has not released a plug-n-play kit for us -- after all, it's not like we need to be overly weight conscious in our lighting choices -- and there is something to be said for not having to string any more wires 😎 So for now, I bought a relatively inexpensive USB rechargeable unit with remote power pack from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXKQ9RG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have not used it for an extended night ride yet, but tested it and it is actually quite nice. It has three brightness levels plus two flash modes and a neat little rear power display. They also make a self-contained unit for a few dollars more, but I chose the battery pack unit simply because it's lighter weight on the bars should keep it from bouncing around on rougher terrain and the battery pack will fit easily in my top-bar phone bag -- plus if I do ever happen to get the urge to splice into the Bafang light wiring, it will make for a clean install. (My hesitation on doing this is current draw and possible damage to the Bafang controller, which would not be worth the gains IMHO.) What I have not yet tried is recharging this light battery from my controller USB output, so stay tuned on that. One minor upside is this Bafang system should more than adequately power any LED rear light. In my search of Bosch front lights, I also found this rear light which looks promising: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0858Y9G1P/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 But again, it has no features other than "on" which again is bringing me back to any of the fuller-featured and relatively inexpensive usb rechargeable units. FWIW, the rear light that comes with the front kit I linked to above is actually really nifty with 3 modes --on, fast and slow strobe-- but is not rechargeable and runs on two 2032 button cells which is disappointing. I probably could drill a hole and wire to the battery contacts, but with other wired or rechargeable rear light options this seems again not worth the bother. I'll use it and see how long those button cells last, but I'm not optimistic. That's it for now.
  9. That is disappointing to hear. It does sound like we’re on our own for the most part. The old, “you bought it, now it’s your problem.” Edit: back to the issue, I spent 20 minutes online, got some clues off other miid drive bikes and found the light plug in the Rockstar harness(!) I have ordered cables and lights to test out, so stay tuned for a progress report and full details if it’s a successful project.
  10. Fair enough. But on the Sondors Rockstar web page, if you expand the specifications list, the very first item reads something like, "Lights: Integrated LED Headlight and Tail Light (will be available as an accessory) !!!!!!! So first question is why is that on the Sondors Rockstar web page if untrue? Second, if true then what is the delay or even problem with Sondors offering a P&P self-install kit off the shelf? I mean it's almost ridiculous not to. Clearly the Bafang mid drive controller is already programmed for lights --you can turn the icon for them on and off from the control switch right now-- so the wiring *must* already be inside the frame somewhere -- or worst case a light kit plug-splices in between one of the other existing connectors. So why is it a big secret? Why not tell us where it's stuffed and tied off exactly? Why make us search for it? Whoever assembles these things surely knows where the unused harness connectors are stowed... So sure, I can buy a self-powered rechargeable LED bike lighting kit for under $40 and solve *my* issue easily. But I also like clean installations, and so having a factory type installation seems a lot nicer. In my case I'm researching the Banfang mid drive wiring and controller diagram and will figure it out for myself -- which is a relative PITA since it has to be already known... As re your disappointment, it looks like it was way more significant than this one of mine
  11. That’s great for hub motor, but what about mid drive — are you saying we’re SOL and on our own? Edit: I decided to reach out Sondors tech support and just received this answer regarding Rockstar lighting -- so yeah, it appears we're S-O-L and on our own. Color me disappointed...: >>Hello, The Rockstar doesn't have an option for lights. Should you need additional help or have any questions please reach out to us anytime. Sean Tech support/Parts dept<<
  12. Anyone figured out a light system that will work with the Rockstar battery and controller? The controller shows a "headlight" on start up that you can turn off by holding the "+" button down -- this also "brightens" up the display for daytime use, so it appears the controller is capable of handling lights. I just can't see where I'd wire them in nor have any idea which brand might actually be plug-and-play?
  13. My wife and I both have e-bikes, her's is a fat tire 75 pound bike and mine's a Rockstar, so we needed a double heavy-duty rack. After a little homework we decided on the Hollywood HR 1500 which lists capacity at 80 pounds per bike, but I suspect it will go another 10 or 20 beyond that as it's very robust and solid with our two on it. Loading the inside bike is a bit of a hassle, but not horrible. On the upside the bikes are very stable and don't wobble around at all when mounted due to the center post -- it's probably the only advantage over the 1-Up. (Note my wife's bike is a step-through, so she needed a crossbar adapter for this rack and the Hollywood HD works very well.) So I'm happy with this rack overall. The 1-Up looks like a solid option for sure, but both our bikes have rear fenders that would likely interfere with the rear 1Up tire post, so I'd need to modify either the bike or the rack... So I think I'll be happy with what I have https://hollywoodracks.com/collections/e-bike-racks-for-suvs-and-trucks/products/sport-rider-fat-tire-electric-bike-hitch-rack?variant=31833680609349
  14. FWIW, I just modded this one from Amazon. Similar to JCJ above, I had to grind the open stop off a little to get a good lock when in use. In addition I also trimmed ½" or so off the black plastic stay guard to create more mounting room; left the rubber "grip" inserts out since they're slippery and in their place wrapped a few layers of gaffer tape around the stay to protect the paint. Finally, I ground a bit off the inside of the clamp surface to make it fit the Rockstar stay better. After all that, I give it a B on performance. It holds the bike up with front wheel either direction, does not interfere with the rear brake and folds nicely to where it looks proper folded. It would be more ideal if it extended another ½" -- there is enough material I could grind and get another ¼" and still be safe and may do that eventually. But for now at least it's an adequate solution that works: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FIKIK7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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