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Everything posted by alienmeatsack

  1. Good luck, hope the bike shows soon! I assume you’ve contacted UPS to make sure its really in their hands somewhere and all? And let us know how the tires fix works.. re flats and such... The problem is that everyone’s situation is different and what works for one doesnt always work for the other. Its why this place is good. You can get a few viewpoints and ideas to work with and see what fits your needs. I have tons of goatheads, a rough asphalt path here. Others do lots of city riding and have glass and such, others ride on dirt with sticks and rocks. I wish there were a one fit for all fix for flats. Sadly there isnt. And there’s even the fat vs thin tire flat thing... like for me my flats had a dozen flats and 4-6 tubes... Thin had nothing until 700 miles and then literally both flats within less then a week and i found nothing in the tube or tire minus the hole. Slime usually takes care of that but I put the liners in because I was spending more on tubes then a set of them were for me. You may end up with no flats and ride forever, I hope so!
  2. Sorry for the delay on this, life got interesting the last month or so. I actually have the Vee Sportsters on there now, posted my install pics here. They are 120tpi tires and they pick up goatheads bad. I think its the tread, it is great as a grip and the ride is great. But I end up with dozens of goatheads on them vs the stock tires. I was looking at new ones with thicker rubber once I get the bike up to working condition again. Any ones you recommend that might be better for goathead country? I was seriously considering adding 2-4 cut open tubes around the main one to add layers of protection on top of the Mr Tuffy liners and Slime in them. Ironically, the bike’s sat now since April 2016 minus the work Ive done on it and the tires are holding at around 12PSI. There were 15-16 when I rode it last. I prefer 20 on roads on these tires but was hoping if they were a bit softer the goatheads might not puncture as easily. Ive even tried (with a cheap tube and tire on a cheap rim) filling the tube with expanding foam. That went very very poorly and was so embarrassing I didnt post or mention it. Let’s just say I over filled and woke up to a loud bang in the garage and came out to find expanding foam everywhere and a split open tire and tube. Luckily I put a trash bag over it but it still got on the floor and hardened and I spent an hour scraping it off. And then as I did so I realized the foam was hard and would dent permenantly so riding would have been a disaster. I’m searching for a soft foam rubber to put in them that allows me to air them up but if they go fully flat the rubber ring inside provides some support so I can limp home. Found a place who will cast the molds for me, and am supposed to get with them in the Spring. They are going to try some “to pressure” molds, so I can pop the “rubber air” into the tire and seat it on the rim and it should technically feel like 20PSI and ride like it has air not rubber. I got the idea from a lawn mower tire insert I saw once, it basically was just a rubber insert that you put in and then aired the tire to pressure and if it went flat, the rubber lining would be there so it’s only about half flat.
  3. @X-Foldes - congrats, I’m jealous I want one of the Folds myself but I have 2 Sondors already. Flat prevention, that is one that we’ve discussed quite a bit. I personally live where there are lots of goathead stickers. So I have Mr Tuffy 4XXXL liners in my fat bike tires and normal ones in my Thin tires, I also put in about 6oz of Slime or similar into the Thins tubes and double that into the Fat. You can also use something like Gorilla tape or Duct tape to tape the inside of the rim to remove any sharp edges which helps on the Thin since it has a wierd step design inside. And of course, always keep everything you need to fit or change a flat on you. Make sure you have the right tube with the right valve stem length, wrench for nuts on wheels, compressed air or a pump, a patch kit, and I toss in $10-20 in my riding bag so I have money for a tube or to get a ride just to be safe. The compressed air cartridges are my main inflation means out in the wild. Pumping up a fat tire is a real pain. I had my first Thin flat 7 miles from home and used the compressed air to fill the tire enough to ride a way and repeat until I got home. I didn’t have the wrench with me and had the wrong tube stem length and my patch kit I had used for someone else a week before so I got caught off guard. Now I carry that stuff on the bike and in my bike backpack too to be safe. hope this helps!
  4. Another update for those who are paying attention. Earlier this year I did 60 days straight on the Thin, thank goodness for the Sondors, without them I would not be doing what I have been without their help when the bad leg needs help. Sadly, a few months ago, I worked so hard on my range of motion that I finally hit the “golden limit”. I hit a point in ankle dorsal and plantar flexion that caused the broken part that set a little off due to the complexity of the break with the Talus and Calcaneous bones, essentially hitting my limit in both directions. So that’s as far as I can go without further work done. But I am still very very thankful to be where I am at. Fast forward a few days, I started having major pain in my leg from the screws sticking through the bone into the muscle as well as new pain from this new found impingement between the main bone and the bone that it pivots off of (the Talus). The pain between the two go so bad I ended up sitting at home and eventually in the ER. Last Monday, I had surgery to remove the interior plate, 1 year and 10 months after the fact. I feel like a new man and I’m still healing, seriously. It’s been a long long journey and I’ve proved I can do this. But I will most likely forever fear edges of sidewalks and trails as a result. But thanks to my Sondors I can ride! And that my friends is one heck of a plus here! Who knew that a bike could do so much damage over such a long term? I sure didnt. But, thank the diety of choice for those applicable, I am still beating this just the same. And I’ve started repairs on the fatty so I may finally get to ride it soon again. Wahoo!
  5. @biknut - I use about 8-10oz of slime in my fat tires and 4-6 in my standard ones. I also have the Mr Tuffy 4XXXL liners in the fatty. I think the tires sidewalls seem to be the weakness over all and even the liner and slime doesnt seem to help. I’ve heard of people cutting open old tubes and putting the main inflated tube inside those to give extra layers of protection but it seems a bit excessive and adds more weight. Not sure how much in relation to a 70+ lbs bike. I find here in Oklahoma the hardest thing to deal with is goatheads esp this time of year when they are dry and hard. I’ve had them go through my flat proof tires on another bike and through Mr Tuffy liners and Slime making a hole big enough the Slime couldnt keep up or plug it. I’m wondering if maybe a tubeless tire sealant inside of the tube might help. Do yu have any experience in this? Ansd you were right on the luck thing for sure. I got 700+ miles on the Thin with not a care in the world then within a week 3 flats, 2 requiring tube replacement. But on the fatty, as soon as I put those new tires on it and slimed it up, I had a flat or two every few days sometimes I’d have to keep airing to maintain pressure. Thank goodness the fat tires do well even on lower pressures. Which makes me also wonder if that is why they seem to be more suceptible (size not included) to punctures, there’s not as much pressure pushing the slime through the holes or the tires against the tubes to hold those hole. I have no clue. If someone can come up with a tire filler that replications “wall foam” in its expansion but simulates when dry a normal tire filled to whatever PSI you want based on how much you put in. That would be nice. Then you just have a set of rims loaded and ready to go if you want to ride the normal ones, and a set filled with the “air like” foam. I tried this years ago with rubber cement in a BMX tire and it did not go well.
  6. 200 miles is good. What is your typical previous mileage between them on the bikes w the other tires? I get them so often on the fat bike that I have double the slime plus Mr Tuffy 4xxl liners and still they get flats. Here, goat heads are a real problem esp once they get dried. And they are everywhere. Those tires have me wanting to try them for the fat as I'm rebuilding it, I like the tires on it but they are really loud esp cornering, and get flats way too easy. I may try the tires you linked on it as I rebuild it. I want to make it look appealing in case I sell but also fun for me to ride.
  7. @biknutMinus the stuff on the side of those tires, the tread is hella sexy! It's very sports motorcycle style looking. How is the thickness of the tread and sidewalls in regards to goat heads and other punctures on those?
  8. Matt, I can totally see you doing a drip loop. You seem like the kind of person who thinks of this stuff for sure. I thought about it but it was passing and when I tried to get some extra cabling via extenders I ran into snags finding the cables. I personally would avoid scotch/transparent tape due to its difficult removing and if that box flexes a little when biking it could pop that seam possibly. I use a strip of Monster tape that I've folded one end over so I can grab and pull it. I was thinking of trying to figure out how to get back access to charging via the port in the side of the door and then just seal the top w white electric tape or similar. I do want to put a thermometer inside that tracks temp and saves history so I can see what temps the inside gets in diff places esp near the controller. I had a BBQ grill one that connected to the phone I was going to use and it would easily fit in there but of course I broke it when I grilled last. It stored history of temperatures, alerts at temps you want, timers etc. An alert if its too hot would be nice. And it would help me figure out how to waterproof but still let it breathe. Ive got some of that Velcro strapping on order BTW. I could use it for cable wrapping too, as well as how you suggested.
  9. I think I'm going to test the Thin's top speed and my speed limit settings to see if it pulses or is steady. Stock motor and controller, LT48 battery added. I'd run the fatty through the same test since it has the bigger battery and controller but its not rideable yet. Would love to see if the pulsing is just stock everything, but Ive not peaked the speed or throttled long ways on the Thin yet and haven't rewired the stock battery connector back yet, one of my projects this weekend if I can get to it. As a curious person, I want to test all combos to figure out what component is doing what or limiting what. I wish the LCD provided better info (more customizable screens maybe). The LCD has lots of great info, but I think some of it is less useful and should be on another screen. And I think that the battery indicator could be a little more accurate. But I'd also like to see some of the functions like trip reset made MUCH easier. I stopped doing this because it just was so difficult for me to get it to work right. Id also like to see control of the "push the bike" speed, I thought I saw somewhere you can change that. No one pushes their bike at the speed the stock motor/controller/LCD go... I think it should be designed where you turn it on on the LCD and start to push and it is like PAS, it just senses your walking speed and the bike moves at your pace. Would really be helpful vs throttle. I think I need to dig into the LCD/controller config info again. PLus some of the adjustments Ive seen here Id like to try..
  10. Also I might add, not sealing the battery box is a good idea. Ive got a fan in my fatty's box to pull air through to be safe. But in torrential downpours as Matt said, the box is going to leak. From my experience, its the top and top front corner where water comes in. It pools between the frame and box due to molecular cohesion and location and then finds its way to the seam at the top. You can, if you wish, put a strip of tape along that seam if riding on a day when its going to rain or is so top down stuff doesnt get in. Ive been trying to find a thin rubber or foam piece to put there so when the doors closed it cant get in the top and top corners, esp in front. I think (and this is me spitballing here), the 2 big holes bottom and front could be "covered" in a way to stop splashing but to allow air in, just be careful of water running along the cables down into it from the bars. Not enough length to make a drip loop there sadly.
  11. Excellent all around suggestions and ideas @MattRobertsonas always! Thanks. I got a few ideas to use too now from that!
  12. Well, Ive actually been looking into this myself after being caught in the rain. Make sure to also seal up the battery box, it has leaks including along the top that let water in, and that big hole in front as well. I was going to do a more old fashioned approach for mine until I could find a better way... slip some plastic bags over the parts so they are out of the water but usable. I'd be more concerned with water going down the lines through the hole in front and finding their way into the controller. So I'd find a good rubber grommet or some solid foam to cram in the hole and maybe tape over it with waterproof tape (or just tape over it well enough to keep water out of the bigger holes on the battery case). Ive seen stuff online that is for electronics that you dip them into that 'waterproofs' the guts but I don't trust that myself. Other option, find yourself 2 clear boxes and mount them over the LCD and throttle so you can see and use but water doesnt get in. Other ideas anyone?
  13. Out of curiosity, when you hit the limit how does the bike react? Mine would pulse. It would hit the max, (21mph or there abouts) then shut off, drop the speed then turn on go back to same top and repeat. Similar to a PWM on a motor but slowed so you feel the effect. Sort of a sine wave of speed at top. I think when you hit the max of the controller (not sure if the motor has any input on this) that is what happens and if you have it lower then that, it just runs at the top speed you set smoothly. I am not 100% on this as I havent tested it in a while. I just remember hating topping it out because it would go from 22mph to 18 or so and back up over and over and that became annoying. I actually found it more comfortable to ride with PAS way up and just very casually pedal vs the throttle to keep the pulsing to a minimum. Matt, you have any input on this? I'm considering doing a few tests on the thin with lowering and raising the top speed to see how it reacts. I do agree, if its this pulse style power he may have hit the limit of the stock controller and its killing the motor briefly to slow it instead of just regulating the power evenly. Iknow the motor is not the problem, it can do much higher with the right battery and controller. I seem to remember someone saying they got 30 or so MPH out of it. And 25KPH is only about 15MPH so its well under the motors limits. So, based on this, I'm guessing the controller is the limit for you Cortavientos.
  14. This post today got me wanting to get back to seeing if that 750w BFang guts will fit and work in the stock 350w hub and checking the wiring to see if the two despite different plugs are same otherwise. If so I may end up ordering a 750-1000 hub prelaced into a new rim so I don't ruin the stock one and try it. My garage is cramped so I need to move stuff a bit to work on it. 1 car garage, 3 push mowers, 2 motorcycles, 3 bikes and a load of other junk does not make for an open workspace. Lol. Am kind of excited to try this. If it works, means we can gut swap BFang/bafang motors to upgrade and just swap the plugs in the process to have more umf. I don't want speed, I want hill and wind power. And since I know my stock thin is sending 700+ watts in the right condition according to the display to the 350w stock motor, having a little more powerful one in that would be nice for piece of mind as well.
  15. My pleasure - @B-Dub- If you'd like I'd be happy to pull the fuse and snap a shot so you can see the number and fuse color etc if it helps.
  16. Good question, let me go have a quick look... Looks like its a 40A fuse. Hope this helps, @B-Dub-
  17. @Andre Storm - That's just the telemetry overlay from GoPro's latest Hero units. The camera records it all once it has a GPS signal, then when you bring it home, you can assign any and all telem and location/sizing you want from there or leave out all but the important stuff. It's just a pain, you have to turn on the GPS on the unit, make sure it has a signal, record your ride, import the video chunks into Quik, re-render w overlay, bring into Studio etc. Not very fun so I only use the info for important stuff anymore. I record 1-2 cameras on me/bike and delete after each ride. Would love to see it send the video the phone and overlap in app there but this works. Just wish I had more stuff like y'all to ride. Most places here are goat heads and flats if you do off the path. Imagine a 60min video of my fixing flats
  18. Hey all. I just had the "fun" experience of changing my first THIN flat. I had not read this thread at the time so I was taken aback by the long and wierd coated stems on the bike's stock Shraeder valve. Basically none of my collection of tubes I carry on the bike would work. Ouch. I usually carry patches, tubes, CO2 wrenches everything. Except last night, in which I had given my last patch to someone else last year and forgot to put a new kit in, and the wrench was borrowed to work on the Fat bike nd not returned. Oops. So I used 2 of my 20 and 2 of my 16oz cartridges to fill the medium leak to get 7 miles to home on the existing tube. I was surprised at how well it rode at slow speeds on the total flat, you could technically get home that way as long as you didn't mind ruining the tire in the process and possibly damaging the rim. I tried to fill it when it was just starting to feel like it was going to bump as it rolled around to keep from this happening but had to bike about 100' on the flat from the street to my garage at the end. It was very sloppy side to side, so a turn would not be safe at anything but a slow speed for sure. Today I changed the flat out w a new tube and tire. Since I had ridden the old one flat I wanted to be safe and got a new one. I went to a Presta valve as suggested in this post both for it's length and availability. No one in town, and I mean no one, had tubes with stems that long in the other valve. Some even acted like they'd never heard of such a thing. (Same shop who had no clue what chain I needed for a BMX freewheel sized 3 Speed even when they held it in their hands so take their thoughts how you will.) A goathead punctured the side of the tire and tube and popped out, leaving no trace on the tire minus a little tiny 'scar' that was only found by placing the hole in the tube and the tire positions together while still on the rim. The hole in the tube was easy to find, it was blowing air out like crazy. I think the only reason it lasted for 7 miles with refills was due to the fact the tire itself closed up leaving no hole to leak into and when I put enough pressure in, it pressed against the tire well enough to stop it from leaking as far. I got around a mile and change before each fill-up. Changing the tube was easy once I had the right parts. Don't forget if you get a Presta to get an adapter for the hole or use some layers of tape or something so the tube doesnt press through if you have a flat. And note that the adapters I got don't sit all the way down into the rim due to the valley in the middle. I had to lightly file down the bottom edge on the sides, and put a few layers of Gorilla tape over it then put the rim liner back over that. I second @MattRobertson rim tape recommendation OR using a strip of Gorilla tape that also covers the 2nd ledge that's kind of sharp inside the rim. The stock rim tape is a bit thin, but it covers the spokes as Matt said is important. I felt like a second strip or some tape would be a safer bet. I'm going to custom cut a strip and tape it while it's raining tomorrow I think when I have the patience. That exposed second ridge just looks like trouble. I figure better safe then sorry. I added some slime to my tube before airing up, and replaced the tire with something with a little thicker more goathead resistant body. My other tires are getting a bit thin on the ground patch in the middle at 700 miles on asphalt and I am not a "speed and slick over safety" guy so I decided to get a new tire to be safe like I said above, I had ridden it flat for a bit so I was more comfortable replacing the tire too. I do 10-18 miles a day every day so I dont need to have more flats. And since I broke my leg in 2016, I am not physically capable of walking 7 miles without stopping every mile for a long rest. I'd have had to call for a ride. I don't want that to happen again. And I check the tires/pressure before every ride, it was fine before that. So whatever happened either was "aggravated" during the ride or happened during it near the end of my 7 miles out. I stopped, took a picture, turned around and got 10' and it was flat. For your on bike kit, I highly recommend a patch kit or 2 and tire tools as well as the CO2 cartridge or pump to patch vs replacement if possible in the field. The process of replacement at home took me an hour, I think I spent 30 minutes just fighting the tire back onto the rim without pinching the tube. But it was also my first, and now that I know and have info from this thread I'm much better informed. I also took lots of photos to document in case no one had done a "changing a Thin flat" thread. If there's interest. I can patch a tire if i have the kit and tire tools pretty easily, have done it for others and myself in the field many times. I just use my hydration pack to check for bubbles after adding some air if I cant find or hear it. Then patch, let dry, pop it back in and air up and go. Have done this a dozen times on the fat bike. But this was a much different deal. Even when I was popping the tire off out in the field, it was much more difficult I guess due to the thin tire. I don't rmember having this much trouble w my other non-Sondors bike. But I havent ridden it as heavily as the Thin so who knows. A few related item notes that are relevant to the THIN tires and replacement... Rear nut size = 15mm axle nut. I used a small Crescent wrench for the tension nut but am going to have to buy one to fit it as I have none that small in my garage. I want to carry what I need. Front nut size = 10mm axle nut. A small Crescent works for both if you apply a lot of elbow grease to tighten those bolts. Worst case, you get it as tight as you can and use your foot to press it a bit more, and then properly tighten when you get back home. The rim tape inside says "29x16" and fits in the inner channel only leaving the 2nd edge exposed in the rim. Also, I found that the one extra old tube I had to play with that had the old Schraeder valve only fit if forced into the hole due to the rubber liner around it, and did not stick out at all so inflation would be nearly impossible. I was hoping maybe you could get enough to stick out to temporarily use a regular tube. On the new tube, I did use the Presta nut, but I just hand tightened it to hold the tube's valve in place (Matt mentioned this above), not to secure it tightly like I would with a normal flat rim. I found if I tightened too much it pulled on the tube and stem and I didn't want to risk damaging the area around the valve even with the adapter and tape over it. Once you have the right tube, replacement is pretty much like any bike. It's just getting that right stem length on your 700x38c tube that counts. I think most the tubes they had were like 700x34-44 universal fit. The one I got fit perfectly in the rear rim. I have not tried an adapter like @MattRobertson mentioned on this one as my inflators all work with the presta valves. And I had problems with them on my Fat bike, they either didn't fit on right or would cause it to leak for some reason. And most bike shops pumps and CO2 adapters tend to do both and fully support Presta. Thanks for the info in the thread, I used it when I went to the shop to get my parts or I'd have not known any different and come home with tubes that still didn't work. I'm going to have anxiety for my next rides since I had the flat, but I'll get over it. I still have the cornering and edges of the pavement anxiety from when I broke my leg. Part of riding I guess. But I was glad the info I needed was here. One of the reasons I like this forum, if I've not posted it, someone else has and there's lots of info and thoughts about any subject so one can make a good decision for parts etc.
  19. I thought I'd update this thread with my progress so you can see what kind of impact this kind of injury can have on a person. It's been a year and 3 months since I broke my leg and had surgery. I am able to ride thanks to the Sondors PAS helping me along w the throttle, and have done so many times. I still struggle on a standard bike due to the plate causing pressure on my bone in the leg, so hills or anytime you need to really stand on it I experience pain. Throttle and PAS FTW here. I had to have GI surgery in March 2017 (almost the same date of my leg surgery one year later) and was down for a few months before and after. But I was cleared to ride etc 2 months ago and RIDE I HAVE! Over the last 28 days, I've ridden 10-18 miles every single day (minus one I worked in the yard and rode a smaller ride and yesterday I rode 25). Biking is the one thing I can do without pain, and I thank my Sondors for that. When my leg was super weak, the PAS set up higher helped me literally ride 10 miles without issues. As my leg has gotten stronger and my ROM has increased in my ankle, I've been able to drop it to PAS 1 and sometimes w wind behind me PAS 0. And when the wind is gusting against me, I use PAS 2 or 3 to help me keep my pace. I credit my slow but strong recovery to the Sondors Thin which I've put 630miles since I got it, most of those w my broken and then healed leg. I limp when I walk and have to wear ankle support or tall hiking boots and still have pain, I can't jog or run or even hike due to the uneven terrain but my Thin has allowed me to bike daily and feel human again. My Physical Therapist and surgeon both said the bike was a great idea and that I was improving much faster as a result of using it since it allowed me to pedal when one leg was not strong enough and it helps me to keep my ankle moving and stretch and work the muscles and tendons. I'm building my leg and ankle up and keeping my ankle flexible in the process as well as getting back into shape. I still have a fear of curbs and the edges of pathways as a result of the wreck, and have had one incident where I got off the path accidentally, dropping 2" into sand and was lucky enough to slow and stop and fall into my left unbroken foot/leg to stop me. I don't know how long the fear will be there but I ride more carefully now. I was pretty out of control going as fast and carelessly as I wanted on the fatty before the accident. So I think despite the setbacks this has made me a better rider, person, and has aided me in ways I didn't even consider. I am having the plate removed before the end of the year and am told this will reduce the pain when walking and hiking but I will have to do PT and have recovery again, just not as lengthy. it's been a long journey to today from March 2016, but I am here to tell the tale. And I have loved my Thin even more since because of its helping me. I am about at the point where I can use my normal bike for rides, but I def feel the pain from pedalling on hills and such after. So I've stuck to the Thin mostly. Loving this bike and what it's done to help me!
  20. I mostly ride here in Tulsa along the Rivertrail that runs parallel to Riverside Drive. It's paved, shaded in spots, has the Arkansas River on one side and all sorts of mini parks, seating, water fountains etc along the way. They are doing a big "Gathering Place" north so the trail ends short, so it's about 18miles from my house to the construction and back. They recently added a new bypass that goes behind the Indian casino so you are literally 10' from the river, but those wind gusts are brutal. I find it to be both a satisfying and fun ride as there are a lot of people to watch, places to stop and rest, and you can go as far as you feel depending on the day. I used to do 10 miles which took me to 71st and Riverside but now I ride all the way to the construction for that 18 miles round trip. I've got pics and videos in my Action Camera thread of the trail. But here's a small sample.
  21. FWIW, I highly recommend you tape down your wires separate from each other with some good thick tape so they fit snugly along the back of the battery unless you use something to push the battery forward. On mine, I've noticed the top where the wires come out hits right at the top sharp edge of the controller and I was concerned about the wires getting rubbed too much and shorting or shearing. So I ran a strip of Gorilla tape on them so they go down the back of the battery. And then I used 2 small chunks of foam w taped to the back to keep it away from the controller. I also pulled out 1 of the 3 rubber padding pieces on the right side, and ground one of them down some so it's not as snug a fit. I was having to press the door hard to close it and worried it might cause a problem. I am thinking I may pull the rubber circles out, Dremel down the white plastic areas, and then stick some thinner sticky back rubber sheeting on those spots and then on the door to hold the battery but not smash it. I'm also considering clipping the wires for both in the middle and putting shrink tube on the lengths to thicken up the wires for safety, then some heat shrink tape over the connection... the wires are a bit thin and I worry about shorts or breaking. But the above is about what mine looks like but with the tape on the back and the small foam pieces to hold the battery away from the controller. I've been trying to figure out how to make a mount for the charger plug inside that fits into the hole on the door, and a means to cover it safely so I can charge without removing it. I prototyped a piece and had it 3D printed by a shop here and it wasn't quite right and I couldn't figure out the hole and waterproofing it. I think I'm going to make the piece were it glues to the door larger so the plug on the door fits and you just have to push the charger plug further in to connect. And then there is cooling/heat build up to worry about. One step at a time.
  22. Loving my LT48 upgrade as well. Controller is next. I'm still getting 3 days of rides with wind and using PAS up to 3, 10-18 miles round trip from it if I don't charge it. I keep it charged so its fresh for each ride and I know no matter how long I ride I'm not even going to dent it. My butt will not last that long on a ride over the battery, lol. I have done some ride tests for longevity but they aren't controlled by any means. I've done 2. Both were 10-14 miles, both had some hills (minor) and wind sometimes gusting, both had PAS 1 for half the ride and pas 2-3 for the remainder due to the wind with some throttle for take offs and 2 or 3 hills that my leg can't quite push hard enough on the right side to get up. And with both I got about 3 days rides RT on a full charge before it died. One on the third ride, the wind was brutal and I was at PAS 3 for some of it just to keep a 13-14mph pace and it ran out 3 miles from home. The other, I got home and had a bar left after day 3. Im going to try and find a good long even path that I can do a proper more controlled test and just ride back and forth until its dead at some point. And I'm going to do a full on all the way to downtown and back ride and see what happens. My fatty did that on its upgraded controller and battery and in the 24 miles RT I was able to go fully throttle for the last 5 or so miles due to my leg hurting and still had battery. LT48 is hands down the best and first upgrade you should do IMHO. And a controller upgrade following that. (Lighting not included, that's a given.)
  23. Alright. Here are 2 short clips done wearing the SnapChat Spectacles while on my Sondors Thin. If you'd like to see them in all their SnapChat rotational glory, follow me on SnapChat (alienmeatsack) - Feel free to follow and watch and unfollow, I don't mind. I just think you get a real sense of the video better when you can rotate your phone in the app. I am working on a few more mount spots but Ive exhausted all the useful ones. I was asked elsewhere to do one on selfie stick which I may try. And I'm waiting for an affordable decent quality 360 camera to try as well. FWIW I still think the Chesty or on the bars or helmet are the best places for front shots.
  24. @Houshmand Moarefi - Thanks! I just thought it might be useful for people who are looking at adding a GoPro or similar to their Sondors, both in choosing a mount location and kind of camera. I have not yet tried any sunglasses with video cameras, however I do have a pair of SnapChat Spectacles I have been meaning to try some videos with. Since it's limited to 10 second shots and they slide off my nose I havent yet done so. Maybe I'll toss them into the frame bag for my ride tonight and shoot a few samples. And also no the drone follow, for now. I cannot afford a drone at this time, but would LOVE to have one follow me and video my ride! If anyone else has done this and wants to add their feedback let us know! I knwo I have been looking at some of the smaller cheaper ones that are meant for this sort of thing but my last drone literally on the first flight lost control with the RC and shot straight up in the sky and was never to be seen so I am kind of wary.
  25. I highly recommend upgrading to at least the 25A controller if you are going to use the Wendy LCD and for future battery upgrades. I donteven think the LCD works right with the stock LCD. Sondors didnt like that so they put in their own safe guards. Good news is, their cost for the LCD is our cost for a Wendy LCD and a 25A controller. So no biggie. Just keep in mind that installing an upgraded controller requires a little mounting creativity depending on which one you get. My 25A fit the top two stock mount holes, so that is how it mounted. When I got the next one up, it didnt fit so it lays in the battery box sideways with foam around it and the battery.
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