Jump to content

alienmeatsack

Members
  • Content Count

    468
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    31

alienmeatsack last won the day on May 22

alienmeatsack had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

103 Excellent

About alienmeatsack

  • Rank
    a very valuable Sondors-Expert

Recent Profile Visitors

3,536 profile views
  1. Good luck, hope the bike shows soon! I assume you’ve contacted UPS to make sure its really in their hands somewhere and all? And let us know how the tires fix works.. re flats and such... The problem is that everyone’s situation is different and what works for one doesnt always work for the other. Its why this place is good. You can get a few viewpoints and ideas to work with and see what fits your needs. I have tons of goatheads, a rough asphalt path here. Others do lots of city riding and have glass and such, others ride on dirt with sticks and rocks. I wish there were a one fit for all fix for flats. Sadly there isnt. And there’s even the fat vs thin tire flat thing... like for me my flats had a dozen flats and 4-6 tubes... Thin had nothing until 700 miles and then literally both flats within less then a week and i found nothing in the tube or tire minus the hole. Slime usually takes care of that but I put the liners in because I was spending more on tubes then a set of them were for me. You may end up with no flats and ride forever, I hope so!
  2. Sorry for the delay on this, life got interesting the last month or so. I actually have the Vee Sportsters on there now, posted my install pics here. They are 120tpi tires and they pick up goatheads bad. I think its the tread, it is great as a grip and the ride is great. But I end up with dozens of goatheads on them vs the stock tires. I was looking at new ones with thicker rubber once I get the bike up to working condition again. Any ones you recommend that might be better for goathead country? I was seriously considering adding 2-4 cut open tubes around the main one to add layers of protection on top of the Mr Tuffy liners and Slime in them. Ironically, the bike’s sat now since April 2016 minus the work Ive done on it and the tires are holding at around 12PSI. There were 15-16 when I rode it last. I prefer 20 on roads on these tires but was hoping if they were a bit softer the goatheads might not puncture as easily. Ive even tried (with a cheap tube and tire on a cheap rim) filling the tube with expanding foam. That went very very poorly and was so embarrassing I didnt post or mention it. Let’s just say I over filled and woke up to a loud bang in the garage and came out to find expanding foam everywhere and a split open tire and tube. Luckily I put a trash bag over it but it still got on the floor and hardened and I spent an hour scraping it off. And then as I did so I realized the foam was hard and would dent permenantly so riding would have been a disaster. I’m searching for a soft foam rubber to put in them that allows me to air them up but if they go fully flat the rubber ring inside provides some support so I can limp home. Found a place who will cast the molds for me, and am supposed to get with them in the Spring. They are going to try some “to pressure” molds, so I can pop the “rubber air” into the tire and seat it on the rim and it should technically feel like 20PSI and ride like it has air not rubber. I got the idea from a lawn mower tire insert I saw once, it basically was just a rubber insert that you put in and then aired the tire to pressure and if it went flat, the rubber lining would be there so it’s only about half flat.
  3. @X-Foldes - congrats, I’m jealous I want one of the Folds myself but I have 2 Sondors already. Flat prevention, that is one that we’ve discussed quite a bit. I personally live where there are lots of goathead stickers. So I have Mr Tuffy 4XXXL liners in my fat bike tires and normal ones in my Thin tires, I also put in about 6oz of Slime or similar into the Thins tubes and double that into the Fat. You can also use something like Gorilla tape or Duct tape to tape the inside of the rim to remove any sharp edges which helps on the Thin since it has a wierd step design inside. And of course, always keep everything you need to fit or change a flat on you. Make sure you have the right tube with the right valve stem length, wrench for nuts on wheels, compressed air or a pump, a patch kit, and I toss in $10-20 in my riding bag so I have money for a tube or to get a ride just to be safe. The compressed air cartridges are my main inflation means out in the wild. Pumping up a fat tire is a real pain. I had my first Thin flat 7 miles from home and used the compressed air to fill the tire enough to ride a way and repeat until I got home. I didn’t have the wrench with me and had the wrong tube stem length and my patch kit I had used for someone else a week before so I got caught off guard. Now I carry that stuff on the bike and in my bike backpack too to be safe. hope this helps!
  4. Another update for those who are paying attention. Earlier this year I did 60 days straight on the Thin, thank goodness for the Sondors, without them I would not be doing what I have been without their help when the bad leg needs help. Sadly, a few months ago, I worked so hard on my range of motion that I finally hit the “golden limit”. I hit a point in ankle dorsal and plantar flexion that caused the broken part that set a little off due to the complexity of the break with the Talus and Calcaneous bones, essentially hitting my limit in both directions. So that’s as far as I can go without further work done. But I am still very very thankful to be where I am at. Fast forward a few days, I started having major pain in my leg from the screws sticking through the bone into the muscle as well as new pain from this new found impingement between the main bone and the bone that it pivots off of (the Talus). The pain between the two go so bad I ended up sitting at home and eventually in the ER. Last Monday, I had surgery to remove the interior plate, 1 year and 10 months after the fact. I feel like a new man and I’m still healing, seriously. It’s been a long long journey and I’ve proved I can do this. But I will most likely forever fear edges of sidewalks and trails as a result. But thanks to my Sondors I can ride! And that my friends is one heck of a plus here! Who knew that a bike could do so much damage over such a long term? I sure didnt. But, thank the diety of choice for those applicable, I am still beating this just the same. And I’ve started repairs on the fatty so I may finally get to ride it soon again. Wahoo!
  5. @biknut - I use about 8-10oz of slime in my fat tires and 4-6 in my standard ones. I also have the Mr Tuffy 4XXXL liners in the fatty. I think the tires sidewalls seem to be the weakness over all and even the liner and slime doesnt seem to help. I’ve heard of people cutting open old tubes and putting the main inflated tube inside those to give extra layers of protection but it seems a bit excessive and adds more weight. Not sure how much in relation to a 70+ lbs bike. I find here in Oklahoma the hardest thing to deal with is goatheads esp this time of year when they are dry and hard. I’ve had them go through my flat proof tires on another bike and through Mr Tuffy liners and Slime making a hole big enough the Slime couldnt keep up or plug it. I’m wondering if maybe a tubeless tire sealant inside of the tube might help. Do yu have any experience in this? Ansd you were right on the luck thing for sure. I got 700+ miles on the Thin with not a care in the world then within a week 3 flats, 2 requiring tube replacement. But on the fatty, as soon as I put those new tires on it and slimed it up, I had a flat or two every few days sometimes I’d have to keep airing to maintain pressure. Thank goodness the fat tires do well even on lower pressures. Which makes me also wonder if that is why they seem to be more suceptible (size not included) to punctures, there’s not as much pressure pushing the slime through the holes or the tires against the tubes to hold those hole. I have no clue. If someone can come up with a tire filler that replications “wall foam” in its expansion but simulates when dry a normal tire filled to whatever PSI you want based on how much you put in. That would be nice. Then you just have a set of rims loaded and ready to go if you want to ride the normal ones, and a set filled with the “air like” foam. I tried this years ago with rubber cement in a BMX tire and it did not go well.
  6. 200 miles is good. What is your typical previous mileage between them on the bikes w the other tires? I get them so often on the fat bike that I have double the slime plus Mr Tuffy 4xxl liners and still they get flats. Here, goat heads are a real problem esp once they get dried. And they are everywhere. Those tires have me wanting to try them for the fat as I'm rebuilding it, I like the tires on it but they are really loud esp cornering, and get flats way too easy. I may try the tires you linked on it as I rebuild it. I want to make it look appealing in case I sell but also fun for me to ride.
  7. @biknutMinus the stuff on the side of those tires, the tread is hella sexy! It's very sports motorcycle style looking. How is the thickness of the tread and sidewalls in regards to goat heads and other punctures on those?
  8. Matt, I can totally see you doing a drip loop. You seem like the kind of person who thinks of this stuff for sure. I thought about it but it was passing and when I tried to get some extra cabling via extenders I ran into snags finding the cables. I personally would avoid scotch/transparent tape due to its difficult removing and if that box flexes a little when biking it could pop that seam possibly. I use a strip of Monster tape that I've folded one end over so I can grab and pull it. I was thinking of trying to figure out how to get back access to charging via the port in the side of the door and then just seal the top w white electric tape or similar. I do want to put a thermometer inside that tracks temp and saves history so I can see what temps the inside gets in diff places esp near the controller. I had a BBQ grill one that connected to the phone I was going to use and it would easily fit in there but of course I broke it when I grilled last. It stored history of temperatures, alerts at temps you want, timers etc. An alert if its too hot would be nice. And it would help me figure out how to waterproof but still let it breathe. Ive got some of that Velcro strapping on order BTW. I could use it for cable wrapping too, as well as how you suggested.
  9. I think I'm going to test the Thin's top speed and my speed limit settings to see if it pulses or is steady. Stock motor and controller, LT48 battery added. I'd run the fatty through the same test since it has the bigger battery and controller but its not rideable yet. Would love to see if the pulsing is just stock everything, but Ive not peaked the speed or throttled long ways on the Thin yet and haven't rewired the stock battery connector back yet, one of my projects this weekend if I can get to it. As a curious person, I want to test all combos to figure out what component is doing what or limiting what. I wish the LCD provided better info (more customizable screens maybe). The LCD has lots of great info, but I think some of it is less useful and should be on another screen. And I think that the battery indicator could be a little more accurate. But I'd also like to see some of the functions like trip reset made MUCH easier. I stopped doing this because it just was so difficult for me to get it to work right. Id also like to see control of the "push the bike" speed, I thought I saw somewhere you can change that. No one pushes their bike at the speed the stock motor/controller/LCD go... I think it should be designed where you turn it on on the LCD and start to push and it is like PAS, it just senses your walking speed and the bike moves at your pace. Would really be helpful vs throttle. I think I need to dig into the LCD/controller config info again. PLus some of the adjustments Ive seen here Id like to try..
  10. Also I might add, not sealing the battery box is a good idea. Ive got a fan in my fatty's box to pull air through to be safe. But in torrential downpours as Matt said, the box is going to leak. From my experience, its the top and top front corner where water comes in. It pools between the frame and box due to molecular cohesion and location and then finds its way to the seam at the top. You can, if you wish, put a strip of tape along that seam if riding on a day when its going to rain or is so top down stuff doesnt get in. Ive been trying to find a thin rubber or foam piece to put there so when the doors closed it cant get in the top and top corners, esp in front. I think (and this is me spitballing here), the 2 big holes bottom and front could be "covered" in a way to stop splashing but to allow air in, just be careful of water running along the cables down into it from the bars. Not enough length to make a drip loop there sadly.
  11. Excellent all around suggestions and ideas @MattRobertsonas always! Thanks. I got a few ideas to use too now from that!
  12. Well, Ive actually been looking into this myself after being caught in the rain. Make sure to also seal up the battery box, it has leaks including along the top that let water in, and that big hole in front as well. I was going to do a more old fashioned approach for mine until I could find a better way... slip some plastic bags over the parts so they are out of the water but usable. I'd be more concerned with water going down the lines through the hole in front and finding their way into the controller. So I'd find a good rubber grommet or some solid foam to cram in the hole and maybe tape over it with waterproof tape (or just tape over it well enough to keep water out of the bigger holes on the battery case). Ive seen stuff online that is for electronics that you dip them into that 'waterproofs' the guts but I don't trust that myself. Other option, find yourself 2 clear boxes and mount them over the LCD and throttle so you can see and use but water doesnt get in. Other ideas anyone?
  13. Out of curiosity, when you hit the limit how does the bike react? Mine would pulse. It would hit the max, (21mph or there abouts) then shut off, drop the speed then turn on go back to same top and repeat. Similar to a PWM on a motor but slowed so you feel the effect. Sort of a sine wave of speed at top. I think when you hit the max of the controller (not sure if the motor has any input on this) that is what happens and if you have it lower then that, it just runs at the top speed you set smoothly. I am not 100% on this as I havent tested it in a while. I just remember hating topping it out because it would go from 22mph to 18 or so and back up over and over and that became annoying. I actually found it more comfortable to ride with PAS way up and just very casually pedal vs the throttle to keep the pulsing to a minimum. Matt, you have any input on this? I'm considering doing a few tests on the thin with lowering and raising the top speed to see how it reacts. I do agree, if its this pulse style power he may have hit the limit of the stock controller and its killing the motor briefly to slow it instead of just regulating the power evenly. Iknow the motor is not the problem, it can do much higher with the right battery and controller. I seem to remember someone saying they got 30 or so MPH out of it. And 25KPH is only about 15MPH so its well under the motors limits. So, based on this, I'm guessing the controller is the limit for you Cortavientos.
  14. This post today got me wanting to get back to seeing if that 750w BFang guts will fit and work in the stock 350w hub and checking the wiring to see if the two despite different plugs are same otherwise. If so I may end up ordering a 750-1000 hub prelaced into a new rim so I don't ruin the stock one and try it. My garage is cramped so I need to move stuff a bit to work on it. 1 car garage, 3 push mowers, 2 motorcycles, 3 bikes and a load of other junk does not make for an open workspace. Lol. Am kind of excited to try this. If it works, means we can gut swap BFang/bafang motors to upgrade and just swap the plugs in the process to have more umf. I don't want speed, I want hill and wind power. And since I know my stock thin is sending 700+ watts in the right condition according to the display to the 350w stock motor, having a little more powerful one in that would be nice for piece of mind as well.
  15. My pleasure - @B-Dub- If you'd like I'd be happy to pull the fuse and snap a shot so you can see the number and fuse color etc if it helps.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.