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alienmeatsack

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alienmeatsack last won the day on May 22 2019

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About alienmeatsack

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    a very valuable Sondors-Expert

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  1. Good luck, hope the bike shows soon! I assume you’ve contacted UPS to make sure its really in their hands somewhere and all? And let us know how the tires fix works.. re flats and such... The problem is that everyone’s situation is different and what works for one doesnt always work for the other. Its why this place is good. You can get a few viewpoints and ideas to work with and see what fits your needs. I have tons of goatheads, a rough asphalt path here. Others do lots of city riding and have glass and such, others ride on dirt with sticks and rocks. I wish there were a one fit fo
  2. Sorry for the delay on this, life got interesting the last month or so. I actually have the Vee Sportsters on there now, posted my install pics here. They are 120tpi tires and they pick up goatheads bad. I think its the tread, it is great as a grip and the ride is great. But I end up with dozens of goatheads on them vs the stock tires. I was looking at new ones with thicker rubber once I get the bike up to working condition again. Any ones you recommend that might be better for goathead country? I was seriously considering adding 2-4 cut open tubes around the main one to add layers of pro
  3. @X-Foldes - congrats, I’m jealous I want one of the Folds myself but I have 2 Sondors already. Flat prevention, that is one that we’ve discussed quite a bit. I personally live where there are lots of goathead stickers. So I have Mr Tuffy 4XXXL liners in my fat bike tires and normal ones in my Thin tires, I also put in about 6oz of Slime or similar into the Thins tubes and double that into the Fat. You can also use something like Gorilla tape or Duct tape to tape the inside of the rim to remove any sharp edges which helps on the Thin since it has a wierd step design inside. And of cou
  4. Another update for those who are paying attention. Earlier this year I did 60 days straight on the Thin, thank goodness for the Sondors, without them I would not be doing what I have been without their help when the bad leg needs help. Sadly, a few months ago, I worked so hard on my range of motion that I finally hit the “golden limit”. I hit a point in ankle dorsal and plantar flexion that caused the broken part that set a little off due to the complexity of the break with the Talus and Calcaneous bones, essentially hitting my limit in both directions. So that’s as far as I can go w
  5. @biknut - I use about 8-10oz of slime in my fat tires and 4-6 in my standard ones. I also have the Mr Tuffy 4XXXL liners in the fatty. I think the tires sidewalls seem to be the weakness over all and even the liner and slime doesnt seem to help. I’ve heard of people cutting open old tubes and putting the main inflated tube inside those to give extra layers of protection but it seems a bit excessive and adds more weight. Not sure how much in relation to a 70+ lbs bike. I find here in Oklahoma the hardest thing to deal with is goatheads esp this time of year when they are dry and hard. I’ve
  6. 200 miles is good. What is your typical previous mileage between them on the bikes w the other tires? I get them so often on the fat bike that I have double the slime plus Mr Tuffy 4xxl liners and still they get flats. Here, goat heads are a real problem esp once they get dried. And they are everywhere. Those tires have me wanting to try them for the fat as I'm rebuilding it, I like the tires on it but they are really loud esp cornering, and get flats way too easy. I may try the tires you linked on it as I rebuild it. I want to make it look appealing in case I sell but also fun
  7. @biknutMinus the stuff on the side of those tires, the tread is hella sexy! It's very sports motorcycle style looking. How is the thickness of the tread and sidewalls in regards to goat heads and other punctures on those?
  8. Matt, I can totally see you doing a drip loop. You seem like the kind of person who thinks of this stuff for sure. I thought about it but it was passing and when I tried to get some extra cabling via extenders I ran into snags finding the cables. I personally would avoid scotch/transparent tape due to its difficult removing and if that box flexes a little when biking it could pop that seam possibly. I use a strip of Monster tape that I've folded one end over so I can grab and pull it. I was thinking of trying to figure out how to get back access to charging via the port in the side of the
  9. I think I'm going to test the Thin's top speed and my speed limit settings to see if it pulses or is steady. Stock motor and controller, LT48 battery added. I'd run the fatty through the same test since it has the bigger battery and controller but its not rideable yet. Would love to see if the pulsing is just stock everything, but Ive not peaked the speed or throttled long ways on the Thin yet and haven't rewired the stock battery connector back yet, one of my projects this weekend if I can get to it. As a curious person, I want to test all combos to figure out what component is doin
  10. Also I might add, not sealing the battery box is a good idea. Ive got a fan in my fatty's box to pull air through to be safe. But in torrential downpours as Matt said, the box is going to leak. From my experience, its the top and top front corner where water comes in. It pools between the frame and box due to molecular cohesion and location and then finds its way to the seam at the top. You can, if you wish, put a strip of tape along that seam if riding on a day when its going to rain or is so top down stuff doesnt get in. Ive been trying to find a thin rubber or foam piece to put th
  11. Excellent all around suggestions and ideas @MattRobertsonas always! Thanks. I got a few ideas to use too now from that!
  12. Well, Ive actually been looking into this myself after being caught in the rain. Make sure to also seal up the battery box, it has leaks including along the top that let water in, and that big hole in front as well. I was going to do a more old fashioned approach for mine until I could find a better way... slip some plastic bags over the parts so they are out of the water but usable. I'd be more concerned with water going down the lines through the hole in front and finding their way into the controller. So I'd find a good rubber grommet or some solid foam to cram in the hole and maybe ta
  13. Out of curiosity, when you hit the limit how does the bike react? Mine would pulse. It would hit the max, (21mph or there abouts) then shut off, drop the speed then turn on go back to same top and repeat. Similar to a PWM on a motor but slowed so you feel the effect. Sort of a sine wave of speed at top. I think when you hit the max of the controller (not sure if the motor has any input on this) that is what happens and if you have it lower then that, it just runs at the top speed you set smoothly. I am not 100% on this as I havent tested it in a while. I just remember hating topping it out bec
  14. This post today got me wanting to get back to seeing if that 750w BFang guts will fit and work in the stock 350w hub and checking the wiring to see if the two despite different plugs are same otherwise. If so I may end up ordering a 750-1000 hub prelaced into a new rim so I don't ruin the stock one and try it. My garage is cramped so I need to move stuff a bit to work on it. 1 car garage, 3 push mowers, 2 motorcycles, 3 bikes and a load of other junk does not make for an open workspace. Lol. Am kind of excited to try this. If it works, means we can gut swap BFang/bafang motors t
  15. My pleasure - @B-Dub- If you'd like I'd be happy to pull the fuse and snap a shot so you can see the number and fuse color etc if it helps.
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