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Scott C. Kennedy

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Scott C. Kennedy last won the day on January 10 2018

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  1. What I did was to take the brake lever and throttle off the handlebar and swap them around... Like this... Put the Shifter on the right handle bar Using an allen wrench, loosen the two bolts in the metal brackets on the right handle bar grip. Then pull the right handle bar grip off the handle bars, clamp it in a vise, and using a fine tooth metal saw, saw about 2 inches off (8 columns of nubs) Using an allen wrench, loosen the mounts for the throttle and the brake lever and slide them BOTH off the handlebar Put the thottle back on, then the brake
  2. Think of it this way, there are a few parts to a "freewheel"... The sprocket that connects to the chain The mount that connects to the wheel The ball bearings that let #1 and #2 move smoothly The catches that let the sprocket turn the mount only in one direction. When you need to unscrew the mount from the wheel, you need to turn it counter-clockwise. But, the catches inside it will only let the sprocket engage the mount when it turns clockwise. So if you don't take the freewheel apart or have a very special tool, then you'll just keep spinning the sprocket aro
  3. If you take your time and go slowly you should not break anything. As for the saw to cut the grip, you could just go buy a metal saw blade (note: you aren't cutting metal, but the fine teeth of the saw blade will make a smoother cut when cutting plastic) http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-10-in-Standard-Hacksaw-12150/204748830 (click through the VGLINK stuff to get to home depot)
  4. I didn't use a camera to film it, But, I tried to well document the steps I did in my post. Plus, I just updated my post which has the parts list updated with working Amazon links. Let me know if you have any questions.
  5. I've been think about how to add a brake light in a "simpler" than Grinchy's Lighting solution post describes. So, what I've been thinking is an all in one unit, that's plug-n-play with the Sondors. Find some short version of some Higo Splitters or some Higo 2-pin male/female connectors to take one of the brake levers signal and split it, connecting one to the controller Use another Higo Splitter or connectors to take the power (light/horn) output of my 25Amp controller Use the power from light/horn connection and one of Grinchy's custom linear voltage regulator, max 60v in,
  6. Yeah, I replaced the stock 15Amp Sondors Controller with the "Wendy" 25 Amp Controller from Passion EBike on AliExpress (China) for $60, also available from LunaCycle (US) for a few bucks more with shipping. It really helps with hills, and given that I'm 225lbs I can use the help! Scott
  7. I'm really not sure if the freewheels with the splines will work. On my bike, the 3 speed freewheel I used did extend a little beyond the threads of the hub, since the Bafang Motor on the Sondors is set up for single gear freewheel instead of a wider three speed freewheel. Thus the (outer/smallest/highest) gear on the freewheel is now closer to the frame than the single gear on the stock freewheel, hence the need for the spacer washers between the new freewheel and the frame. So... If (big IF) the splines do allow the axle bolt to pass through without marring the threads and the spacers y
  8. You should not have to spread the rear chain & seat stays (the frame parts that the wheel bolts to), since they naturally flex out. You will have to put a spacer or two between the freewheel and the frame to make sure your chain doesn't rub the frame in the highest (smallest) gear.
  9. Yes, it is a standard "USA" freewheel as seen on http://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
  10. Not sure you can swap out, just the chainring on the stock "prowheels" crankset. It looks like it's a black version of a PRO-E44PP, so not sure how you'd remove and add the other chainrings. Scott
  11. Like this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mountain-Bike-Bicycle-Thread-On-Screw-Thread-Freewheel-14-17-20T-3-speeds-N2-/252135242006 Well, the chain size (1/2 x 1/8) or (1/2 x 3/32) means the links are 1/2 long and 1/8 or 3/32 wide, depending on the gears you have. So, it should work. So in theory, you could use a freewheel like it, providing it has the right threading to fit the stock Sondors threads. vs. a splined wheel. There are several different thread standards, so be careful!
  12. With the new gearing I can climb a 20-25% grade for at least 150 ft before I have to stand up and pedal really hard.
  13. Okay, just finished my Aluminum Frame Sondors 3-speed conversion using the following parts list... 1 - Shimano Tourney FT35 6/7-Speed Rear Derailleur w/Hanger - $12.54 & FREE Shipping 1 - SRAM I-Motion 3 Shifter with Connector - $10.00 + $6.90 shipping (I got free shipping on my order) 1 - KMC Z410 Bicycle Chain (1-Speed, 1/2 x 1/8-Inch, 112L) - $8.68 PRIME 1 - uxcell® Bicycle Metal 3 Speed Threaded Scooter Sprocket Freewheel Repair Part - $12.14 & FREE Shipping 2 - 12 mm washers I had at home 8 - (5 white/3 black) Zip ties I had at home Using th
  14. So, just to keep this thread alive. I'm interested in doing a 3-speed conversion to my aluminum Sondors. But, I want to have a right hand 3 speed shifter with gear indicators. Plus, I'm still cornfused on the chainring/chain/freewheel pitch choices. So, as I understand it.... I believe the stock Sondors has a black prowheel (pro-E44P looking) crankset, 39T chainring, 16T freewheel, and KMC Rustbuster Z410RB 112 link 1/2" x 1/8" chain. With those gears, according to http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_ratios gives you 2.4 gear ratio. The chain ring might be 40T, so that would give yo
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