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MisterFixIt1952

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MisterFixIt1952 last won the day on March 9 2018

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About MisterFixIt1952

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  • Birthday 10/04/1952

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  1. Be sure the GPS tracker, you purchase, has at least a 3G-4G radio. All trackers use a cell phone card to work and a lot of the cheap trackers, that will work in China, are 2G which is no longer supported in most of the USA. A typical US 3G tracker will cost at least $50-60 USD and since the radios are larger, will not fit into the gooseneck or seat post. They will, however, fit under the seat, or better yet, inside the battery or control box, a good place to hard wire into the GPS's battery charger. Most GPS units have a Li-ion backup battery able to keep the tracker functioning for 3-5 days, an important function since most bike thieves do not have a key to turn the bike on. Aliexpress, Bangood & Amazon have a decent selection of reliable trackers, some with 1-year data (SIM card) plans and/or tracking site service plans. Be prepared to pay at least $5/month for a SIM card and many trackers use a subscription service for the tracker data site, where you connect with your tracker to see the map or tracking info. Some of the tracker sites have a one time, lifetime fee, which is much cheaper than the yearly subscription, typically about $20, vs. $10-15/yr for the yearly fee. Tracker technology and products are changing fast so it is difficult to recommend a specific product. Just be sure to be aware of all of the "got-ya's" involved with the technology and the required services. At this time there is no GPS technology that does not require a SIM data plan so view installing a GPS tracker as purchasing an insurance policy, rather than a bicycle lock. If you have a high-end bike or an expensive eBike, a tracker is a good bet against the day that the bad guys decide they like your bike more than you do, and decide to take it home.
  2. Hi B-Dub, I didn't use a double front chain ring, mainly because I couldn't mount the front shift mech. because of the battery box. I could mount one but I would probably do damage to my nice pretty yellow powder coat job. I just got a 3D printer so I can finally print a case for the shifter servo and micro processor. I finally have all of the parts I need and plan on assembling everything in the next week or so. I should have everything up and running by the time riding season gets into full swing. Also, I plan on exploring an auto shift mode using the hall sensor on the chainring along with a current sensor (to sense load) hooked up to the arduino in the electric shift servo box. Having a second ring on the front would just complicate things. The chainring I used is at the front of this thread (along with pictures) you can mount a second ring on it. There are holes for a second ring. You just need to match the bolt pattern and get the hardware, ring, bolts etc. Good luck on your project. MisterFixIt1952
  3. For help removing the original freewheel without destroying it check out this post on the Sondors upgrade FaceBook page. https://www.facebook.com/groups/103170603368320/?ref=group_header Check out the article by Steve Condie. Great Piece of work. https://www.facebook.com/groups/103170603368320/permalink/229902797361766/
  4. It is possible to remove the freewheel without killing it. Although you do end up with a rather large pile of ball bearings, all trying to run away and be free!. There is no way to convert the stock hub to a cassette type freewheel. That requires a different Bafang hub. Some of the new Sondors have this upgraded hub. I think it is a 500 W motor. You need a shimano type spline on the motor hub. The problem is that the coli half of the motor has the freewheel spline on it is the part that is not replaceable, at least not that I have seen. I know that you can buy the other half, the planetary gear side, either as an upgrade to a 500W motor or as a replacement for the 350W, for a repair. Also, I think that it is just about as expensive as replacing the whole motor with a cassette spline type 350 or 500W motor. Both of my original fat bikes are single speeds with a 3 speed conversion. If I was buying a new bike I would definitely buy the 7 speed model with the 500W motor and the pneumatic forks upgrade. Although the price is quite a bit more than the $695 (including shipping) that I paid for my bikes. Since the city I live in is mostly flat, at least where I usually ride, a three speed fits my needs just fine. I still haven't had time to finish my three speed conversion on both of my bikes. I have added fenders, a really nice schwinn rack on the back and an upgraded controller and LCD panel. The electronic shifter that I have designed is the last step. I have been waiting until I finished the remodel of my home shop so I have some room to work. Also I just bought a 3D printer so I could print a case for the linear stepper mechanism and arduino that shifts the derailleur. Total cost of the shifter is about $30 in parts, including the handlebar switch. As soon as I get the printer assembled and running I plan on taking some pictures and posting an instructable on how I built the shifter. The shifter might mount inside the battery box or zip tie to the wheel strut with a 7.5V lithium battery inside the battery box. I could possibly just use the 12V accessory lead to power the unit using a cheap step-down regulator for the 5V. I'll decide when I get the unit finished or at least breadboarded. If I use an outboard battery, I can still shift if I need to pedal in, low on juice The neat thing about an electronic shifter is the ability to tweak the shift to match the cog spacing of the three speed freewheel. Once the basic shifter is finished I plan on attempting to add an automatic shift mode that will use the pedal assist sensor to automatically upshift the gears and maybe downshift to low when I stop. It's important to downshift while still moving the chainring so you are in low gear when you start up. still not sure how I might accomplish this, maybe using the break cutout switch in conjunction with the cadence sensor and a current sensor connected to the arduino. That's the cool thing about using an arduino for a controller, you can add sensors to the input pins and change the programming to match new functions. If anyone is interested in this project, check out youtube. Search for servo controlled bike shifters. There are at least 2 videos posted, three when I get mine finished. Both of those projects use an RC model servo to do the shifting whereas I'm using a micro stepper linear servo for mine. The programming is the same, just a different power mechanism. If my method fails, I will also convert mine to a servo. The servo that they are using costs about $25-30 and the one I'm using is only $10 (including shipping). Also, since mine uses a lead screw I think that it will hold the shift position more securely than a srvo, and use less power. The stepper is really tiny and runs on 5V. I should be able to run the stepper directly off of the arduino pins without needing a stepper driver inbetween. If I do need the driver, they are really cheap, costing just a couple of bucks, each. One last Item I would like to mention is the spare battery I installed in the battery box. I didn't have the bucks to upgrade to a larger main battery, like a lot of people do. Instead I purchased a 36V hoverboard battery off of eBay for $50. It's half the AmpHrs of my original battery but it gives me enough extra range to get home in a pinch. Kind of a spare tire. I just wired a simple switch to cut out the main battery and turn on the backup.. Since the backup is also 36V I can charge it up using my regular charger by just leaving it turned on while charging. Also the battery is small enough to easily fit into the battery box with the main battery. Definitely beats spending $300-500 on a new bigger battery, which would also cause me to want to upgrade the motor to a 500 or 750A 56V hub, and so on and you know the drill. Power makes you greedy once you step over the line. For the time being I'm happy with my bike, as is, with the planned upgrades. If I was to want more, I would probably just sell mine and get the upgraded model with the 7 speed and bigger motor. Anyway, spring is on the way and riding time is near. Time to shake off the frost put away the cold weather gear and get ready for some fun in the sun. Yehaa! MisterFixIt1952....Have fun Y'alll
  5. Did anyone get the LUNA Cycle email last week advertising a new 2 speed motor? Really kool design. Comes with a controller and LCD for $349. Very interesting way the motor transmission works. You can check it out here. https://lunacycle.com/double-gear-double-torque-motor/
  6. I came to the same conclusions. Too bad the motor they put on doesn't have the spline. Bafang makes the same identicle motor that we have but it has the spline on it.
  7. I was checking the link on my post to see if it was still good (it wasn't) so I updated the link, I also ran across a descent deal on a 48T crankset, something that was hard to find when I bought my set. Here is a link for anyone who might be interested. The 48T chainring keeps the middle gear as close to stock as you can get. This is a Suntour 48T 175mm crank arm with square taper. Should fit right on the sondors spindle with no problem. The ad doesn't mention it it's a 1/2 or 3/32 but it's a single speed so it's probably a 1/2 MTB chain. Also, it's on sale for $27 free shipping. A great deal for a 3 speed conversion. Sincerely, MisterFixIt1952
  8. One thing I would suggest , if I see the derailleur correctly in the picture, is to use a short cage model. I believe, from what I read, that JKS bought the long cage model. BTW, the cage is the chain tensioning arm that moves the chain from gear to gear. With a 3 speed freewheel, I think a short cage is more practical since you don't need the extra takeup, on your chain, like on a freewheel with a large gear cassette. This keeps your chain smaller, the derailleur doesn't hang down nearly as much and it doesn't flex side to side as easily making for more precise shifts. If you look around on Amazon, you can find just about any model derailleur in short cage (SS) or long. On my build I'm using a Shimano 105 RD-5701-SS Short Cage, which is a pretty spendy top mid range shimano derailleur which also requires a separate hanger. If you are on a budget I suggest a Shimano FT35 short cage derailleur (as sourced by Scott Kennedy, thanks Scott), It's only $13.75 with free shipping. Check out Scott's fine build directions on page 6 for all the info. One more thing. I decided to replace my chain ring to keep the middle gear ratio as close to stock as possible. That requires a 48T chainring. I shopped around for several days and the best deal I came up with, that was close, was this item. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MTB-Folding-bicycles-crankset-crank-BCD130-square-hole-52T-SINGLE-SPEED-/221914132726?hash=item33ab1cf0f6 It was $37 including shipping and was the best deal, by far, that I could find. It also has a chain guard and is very well built and almost half what an equivalent Shimano would cost. Also it has a standard bolt pattern so you could replace the chain ring with a different size if you were so inclined. With 52T this crankset gives you a slightly higher gear than a 48T on the 2nd gear but the difference isn't that much and the top gear really gives you some legs. Also the lower gear is great for those hills where you need a bit of extra power. Good luck on your shopping and your build. Sincerely, MisterFixIt1952
  9. That is quite quite the beast. Definitely not the stock Bafang. That looks like Alien's 750. You need the long cassette model to fit that many cogs on the motor. Not to mention a lot of extra chain, big triangle battery, and the big controller, etc. No problem, just throw your check book at it Sincerely, MisterFixIt1952
  10. Actually, my programming is rustier than a bike chain left out in the rain. The thing about arduino is there is a sample of just about any program you can think of, somewhere on the web. Also I ran across a program that lets you do something like visual programming by just plugging in blocks like legos. They have a large, growing library of modules for different gizmos that you can connect to an arduino. Super easy programming because you hook up a virtual device and when it works you plug together the real thing, input the program it generates and viola, instant gizmo. You can also write your own modules if you feel like doing some coding. Best $20 I've spent in a long time. Also, I already have some arduino code from a couple of other similar servo shifter projects I found on the web so the coding part is the easy part. I just need to make the servo mount and linkage to the derailleur and the box to put it all in. It would be real handy if I had a 3D printer but that's still a ways off on the todo list. Just to give you an idea of the size of the thing, I might mount the servo and arduino inside an aluminum cigar tube I found laying around. Wires out the top, cable out the bottom. That's how big the finished device is. Right now I need to concentrate on making some useable work space in my living space and my new shop. I'll get back to you soon with more info and some pictures. MisterFixIt1952
  11. Sorry to hear about your crash. A similar thing happened to my best friend. He was riding his new eBike and trying to go up a driveway that had a tall entry and his tire caught the tall edge and flipped him off the bike and he ended up with about 2 lbs of hardware in his shattered elbow. I think he was about 65 at the time so it was pretty traumatic, not to mention painful. Took a long time for him to recover. About that shifter project that I am (sorta ) working on. I finally got all of the parts assembled but due to my home remodeling project from hell, I have spent most of the summer working to get my living space in order. I haven't had the time or the working space to proceed with any of my other projects including my 3 speed upgrade. As a mater of fact I haven't been able to ride my bike all summer. Almos every square foot of my house is either "in construction" or is filled up with building materials. Also my workshop entry is almost completely blocked by my dead van and until I can get the new transmission installed I can't get into my shop to work. I hope to get that problem taken care of this week. As soon as I get a working shifter finished I will let you know. I would be happy to put one together for you. The whole mechanism is actually pretty simple and could be installed in about an hour or less. The only thing you need to do to your existing installation is to remove the spring from your derailleur and attach the new shifter cable from the controller and attach the shift switch to the handlebars. The controller servo doesn't need the heavy spring on the derailleur to shift the gears down as the servo holds the derailleur in the correct position for the selected cog. Total cost of the whole assembly is $3 for the arduino tiny cpu, $12 for the stepper motor, $5 for the stepper controller and some wire and a few misc parts plus a short cable and sheath plus a small project box to put the whole thing in. Since the whole controller runs on 3.5-6v. I might run it off of a separate Li-Ion battery, just to keep things simple. The controller should run for weeks on a single charge since it only runs when you shift. I think I'll use a toggle switch to shift. Push it up to shift up and down to shift down. About as easy as it gets. I could make it auto shift by sensing the current draw from the battery and have it down shift when it senses a need for more power but I will have to work out the specifics when I get one working. It is relatively easy to upgrade the programming with a usb cable and a PC so you could upgrade the controller software as I come up with new tweaks. The great thing about the controller is that we are all using the same 3 cog freewheel so you won't need to tweak the programming to fit your cog spacing. It's easy to reprogram the controller for any cog set but it requires you to hook it up to a computer and tweak the stepper motor settings to tune the cog spacing and number of gears to shift. The controller could be programmed for any spacing and number of cogs if you wanted to change over to a 5 speed. I will post detailed instructions about the build and programming soon. Also, this is going to be an open source project so I'm hoping that I will get some interesting feedback from other builders. There are a lot of smart and resourceful people on this blog. I'll try to get some work done on it as soon as I can. Maybe this week. At the least I will post some pictures of my parts so you can see what I have in mind. Get well and I'll see if I can get you a working model before you start fixing up your bike. MisterFixIt1952
  12. Dear AlienMeatsack, I infer from your recent posts that you had a hard landing on your bike? Are you OK? Older guys (such as myself) don't bounce as well as our younger counterparts. I hope you are mending well and the damage to you and your bike was minimal. Stay well. Sincerely, MisterFixIt1952
  13. Now that's thinking outside the box, way outside. Nice try, bad idea. While you might get everything to work (sort of), the Bafang hub on the Sondors bike is designed for a rear wheel bike. They do make a front hub motor, as a mater of fact I think I read a post about someone who made a two wheel drive bike by adding a front hub motor to his bike. Putting the stock hub on the front wouldn't make much sense since you would lose your pedal assist among other problems. Also you would have to rewire the bike to get power to the front wheel. Just my $.02 MisterFixIt1952
  14. A lot of the 3 speed bikes, that have these freewheels, are found on are kids bikes and use basic, no frills, friction shifters. Old guys, such as myself, have less tolerance for a lack of precision (this is my favorite emoticon cuz I only have site in one eye)
  15. One quick thing. I'm making this electronic derailleur because I don't think anyone who has done a 3 speed conversion is completely satisfied with the shifter portion of the project. To my knowledge, no one makes a descent 3 speed shifter that works with the 16-19-22 freewheel that we are, pretty much, forced to use. Due to the unusual spacing of the cogs, thumb shifters are not synchronized properly and require "technique" to operate and twist shifters or friction shifters are not as precise or convenient to use either. Since we are riding electric bikes, it only seems natural that there should be an electronic solution to our problem. Thus the "Electro-shift" idea. Besides, it opens up a world of possibilities for assisted power input if we use our imaginations and a bit of ingenuity, not to mention the "nifty factor". MisterFixIt1952
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