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About George-X

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  1. I just replaced the original Tektro with Shimano 355 brakes I got from Bolton Ebikes (modified for Sondors X). Replacement wasn’t difficult. Compared with the Tektro brakes the circuit brakers cable are quite long (from my point of view: too long). I had to store about 40-60 cm of these cables inside the battery tank, but several zip ties did a good job. Compared with the modification above I didn’t cut the line. Therefore I can’t use the closed cable guides, cause only the cable itself is small enough to fit the guides but not with still attached lock at the end. But ... dis- and reassembling this lock “only” for using the guides sounds quite disproportional compared with a simply zip tie solution. But: After installing I decided to bleed the brakes - especially the rear wheel brake felt quite spongy at the lever (despite the brakes should be ready to use). The front wheel brake worked perfect, but the bleeding process at the rear showed that no Shimano mineral oil (the red one) was used. So I changed the complete oil inside, despite of perfect working front brakes. All in all it took about 30-40 minutes to replace one brake for I worked quite slow. I enjoyed the first really warm sunshine day outside ... Compared with the Tektro brakes the Shimano hydraulic brakes are a significant improvement for the handling. Hard braking is faster and easier which leads to a short braking distance, now there is a well defined braking-point you can easily feel and riding is more dynamic. I’ll add some photos, too. George
  2. Well, I’m an European 6‘ er, too - or to tell it metric dimensions: 182cm height. My Sondors X is barely fitting ... it works, but 2-3cm longer would be good. My solution was to use a Thudbuster Cane Creek seatpost in combination with an Ergolux 610 seat. At the end I’ve got my 3 cm (even more) and it feels like riding a fully, too.
  3. Well, the damper insert within my AirShocks looses permanently and regularly pressure. I contacted Sondors and they send a replacement part covered under warranty. I’ll replace the damper within the next days hoping this issue will be solved with this intervention.
  4. I have to fill „by hand“ - using a „Topeak Joe Blow Sport III“. The graduated disk could be a little bigger, but all in all a very valuable air pump. How often do you have to pump up your Luna Landers? I’m not quite sure if my AirShocks are perfectly airtight ... they lost quite much pressure during the last seven days (~ 10 psi). But may be temperture differences are the main reason. Adjusted the pressure at higher temperatures, measured today and it was quite cold.
  5. Is there a way for the owner to differentiate Sondors X 2017 or newer models from Sondors X 2016 or older models ... The completely new LCD screen (this here https://sondors.com/search?type=product&q=Color+LCD) will only fit to 2017 models or newer. Interestingly even the Sondors chat couldn’t tell me at once if I own an 2017 model or an older one 😕🙁☹️ . OK I’ve got a ticket and they will contact me ... but (to be honest) I’m not sure if I can rely to their statements. Sounds a little bit confusing ...
  6. Well, after some “research” I’ll answer myself: 1) The SONDORS AirShocks are delivered (quite usual and normal) with Schrader valves (the ones you’ll find on car tires, too). 2) Their travel is 80mm (not so much, but enough) 3) I’ve got good results with a negative travel (sag) of approximately 25%, which means 20mm. This depends a little bit from the tire pressure. At the moment I’ll drive my Sondors X with (quite low) 10-12 psi, cause it’s rainy weather with much mud, sand and other porous substrate. 4) With my weight of 75kg, this leads to a pressure in the AirShocks of about 90 psi. 5) The rebound (red cap on the right side of the SONDORS Air Shocks) has 9 positions to lock and I’ll use level 3 or 4 (1=completely loose / 9=completely fixed). 6) The silver closing cap above the valve (on the left side of the AirShocks) might be stuck. I needed a rubberized pipe wrench to untwist the cap for the first time. I don’t know if there is a linear relation between (body) weight and the pressure in the AirShocks. You’ll still have to try and error, therefore the numbers above are only a first advice.
  7. Hi! During the last days I’ve made some troubleshootings on my SONDORS X. Within such a repair session I installed my SONDORS X - AirShocks. For I’m usually cycling cross-country, the old fork causes too much back and neck pain ... 🤕 I’ve just made some cycling tests and the default factory setting is definitely too soft. How do I (re)adjust sag and rebound I think I need an air pump, and I’ve to remove the left (silver) covering cap? Which shockpump is well suited? Are there special valves build in? Any instructions, experiences, advices from anyone here? Thanks, George-X
  8. I’ll have to add some more comments to this issue. Welding works with thermoplastics, in my situation the plastic itself is the problem, it’s definitely too brittle. I did some further tests and I managed to break the clamp again and again ☹️ - not at the welded position, but always a little bit in front of that. So, that’s no reliable way ... The problem is: Thermoplastics are quite impossible glue reliable and durable (with adhesive) - especially if there is a constant tension (as it would be) Therefore I developed a solution using something like a “prosthesis” - so it’s a mechanical fix instead of a „chemical one“. I took the part of a clamp which usually fixes a bicycle bell on the handlebar (just look at the photo above), placed it inside the broken clamp and drilled three holes (4 mm diameter) into both pieces. Both parts were connect with three flat head screws (inside) and threaded nuts (from the outside). I took screws made of brass to avoid rust. Finally I’ll use a cold-welding tape to wrap the attached “prosthesis”, the threaded nuts and the screws (to avoid scratches on handlebar) or I’ll only cover the screw heads inside with some other tape. Finished: I used a heat shrink tube to cover the screws and the threaded nuts. Much easier ...
  9. Thanks a lot for your thoughts. I think in general the idea may work too, but there are some hurdles to negotiate. I can’t fix the epdm clips in an easy way to the control unit. I have to modify the clips, especially the bolt hole on one side or both sides. Additional: I need a base (or something else) glued under the control unit for the screws. The worst thing what could happen is to damage the electric components of the unit with the screws. Therefore security precautions are quite essential within this fix and that means higher risk, more time and more (possible) weak points. If other solutions may not work, this will be a way too.
  10. It looks like the issue is solved (at the moment) - and the solution was quite unexpected 😳 ... Today afternoon I tried to figure out which kind of plastic this crappy clamp was made of. No one knows - and I think even a telephone call to China wouldn’t lead to a result. Therefore I tried to differ some types of plastic from one another doing a fired sample. I took a small piece and tried to ignite the sample. To my surprise it doesn’t start burning, instead of melting. It looks like a noncombustible thermoplastic polyurethane ... And thermoplastics can be (re)assembled by welding - the flow characteristic of my sample looks really good, quite perfect: no bubbles, doesn’t burn, no dropformation, no soot-production ... I took my stick lighter (that’s my welding equipment) and I really managed to weld the two pieces to one. I even had enough time to reach a really closed linkage. At the end the clamp nearly looks like before ... hope the connection is durable and the temperature doesn’t change the plastic attributes.
  11. Looks good 👍 - definitely ... and the rose in the background, too 😉. The double sided tape is still a possibility for me, but I would choose this option as a last resort for it fixes the control unit immoveable. I’m definitely a fan of deconstruction ... of course I can remove a double sided tape attachment too, but I’m not so flexible as I could be. In general I always try to keep the same functionality. Therefore I would prefer a solution with a clamp. A worm gear hose clamp will work too, if I can fix the control unit to the worm gear. My standard expoxy I use is called „UHU Plus Endfest 300“, but it’s semifluid. I think J B Weld plastic epoxy putty is a very good alternative - the paste will fill gaps, too. I think first I’ll try to modify the bike bell clamp, try to attach the the control unit to the modified clamp with J B Weld and - if everything works - I can mount the control unit as before.
  12. Hi Reddy! Thank you very much for fast reply. I just thought I’m not the only one with this problem. So I will tune my ears to this plastic brackets, for all of them are getting older and others may break too. At the moment I check the idea to use the bracket of a bicycle bell I just bought from eBay which fits the handlebar. The „only“ thing I’ll have to solve is how to fix the controller on this platform (instead of the bell body). But now I have to wait till the bell is here. The easiest thing would be using epoxy. But I don’t know if epoxy will stick to both plastics ... we will see. George
  13. George-X


  14. Hi everyone out there. I’m Sondors X owner from Germany. Great bike, great rides ... BUT: Today I’ve seen that the plastic clip which fixes the small control unit for the LCD screen (the one with the ON-OFF, UP and DOWN button) is broken (without any action). It doesn’t look like there’s an easy fix for the problem. As far as I can see the cable into the control unit can’t be dismantled and it looks like that it can’t be dismantled from the LCD screen, too ... If this is true these tiny plastic clip causes a bigger problem, for replacement . For I’m (a little bit) a handy person I’ve two or three ideas how to tackle the problem. But I don’t want a provisional arrangement (à la quick and dirty). Therefore I’m asking if anyone here had solved the same problem or if anyone has an idea. Thanks a lot for support. George BTW: I’ll add a picture to show the problem.
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