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Reddy Kilowatt

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Everything posted by Reddy Kilowatt

  1. I can only guess but because of previous Controller, LCD mismatch problems that it might be your problem. Contact Sondors.com with all information on the supplied Controller & LCD model #’s and behavior information. In the mean time you might want to return your controller to the Default settings. Your LCD User Manual is available in the Instruction Section of the forum. REDDY
  2. Troy. You just copy the web address in the hypertext address window and paste it into the message. REDDY
  3. I’m not sure if you’ll find the answer to what you require in this thread, but most of the confusion on the 51C is acquiring advanced or admin settings, I think. https://sondorsforum.com/topic/2051-2018-sondors-ebike-kd51c-lcd-setup-manual/ Recover Default Settings dEF represents recover default settings. The default value is N. To access recover default settings, hold both the “+” and the “i” button for 2 s. Press the “+” or the “-” button to choose Y or N again. N means that do not recover default settings. Y means that recovers default settings. When it is Y, hold the “i” button for 2 s to recover default settings; the display shows DEF-00 at the same time, and then return to general display state. Recover Default Settings Interface If your looking for a list of default setting values, they should be different for every model of Sondors that use the 51C. To my knowledge I don’t believe those are published. Members have exchanged info about their settings in the thread, REDDY
  4. Hey Ya Bum … Hat on Tight, Ur Gonna Get Wet. What does it say on your Brake Caliper? Tektro? I use two syringes on on my Magura MT-5E’s, but that’s only because I have 2. The one on the lever I use is mostly a funnel without the plunger. You can use a section of tubing (which I see in the Tektro kit) or just monitor the hydraulic fluid in the levers reservoir, straight and level so the port is at the high point for the system and requires loosening the lever mounting bolt and rotating it, monitoring the open port so the fluid level is flush with the top of the open port. A rag on the brake lever to catch overflow. Some mechanics like to use two syringes and work the fluid back & forth between the two syringes to help evacuate air bubbles, sucking the fluid from one to the other. There are a multitude of mechanics personal preferences and procedures that they like. I do like to move the fluid back and forth, but I do it with the just bottom syringe alone, while the top syringe is just a reservoir of brake fluid, moving the fluid back and forth while tapping the lever reservoir and alternately the caliper, to dislodge any air bubbles. (most bicycle brake fluid is mineral oil and Magura tints it red and calls it Royal Blood so it’s more expensive). It’s a simple process that can cause you to pull out your hair out because any air in the system is compressible (fluids are not) and causes a spongy lever and poor brake modulation. One of my jobs in the military was overhauling aircraft brakes in a intermediate hydraulic shop then later, trouble shooting all hydraulic systems on aircraft. My most important tool was a 9/16th Grease Rag. You never want to get a speck of fluid or any other contaminants on the Disc or Pads but that’s a whole other problem that can be complicated to remedy. It’s a good idea to remove the pads during brake bleeding procedures. If I’m doing Maintenance on existing of Tektro Cable Mechanical Brakes, I usually replace the pads because you can buy a shoe box full of pads for cheap, on Aliexpress. Magura’s are really expensive and 4 pads per caliper, so I wear them till replacement is necessary. Reddy
  5. You’ll need a Tektro Hydraulic Service Kit if you plan to replace pads and bleed them in the future. You can’t do much maintenance without it. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTRO-Basic-Bleed-Hydraulic-Brake/dp/B088PQVXYH/ref=asc_df_B088PQVXYH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507647892954&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4809686198700992507&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9059462&hvtargid=pla-931200771823&psc=1 But in the meantime you can try removing the caliper from its mount but leave the adapter, and remove the brake pads. Then gently, try and move the piston back in its cylinder. A large slot screwdriver will work but again, don’t force it. If it doesn’t want to move, the system is probably in hydraulic lock. The reason is probably in the handlebar brake lever. The piston in that lever is probably stuck but it might take disassembly to release it and discover why. Mis-installed O-ring¿ You can’t service the brakes without the service kit. Loosening either port should resolve the hydraulic lock but without the kit you can’t then setup and bleed the brake, after allowing any air into the system, by opening a port. Any competent bicycle shop can service the problem. Call Sondors.com, talk to an agent and see if they can recommend a local shop near you. Even if they can’t they should reimburse you for the service, as long as it isn’t because of a crash or some damage that’s user created. They’re pretty reliable about issues, especially on new bikes. You can review Tektro Brake Bleeding Videos on youtube. REDDY
  6. Personally, I use an aftermarket EBW, 52V -14ah battery and their 25Amp controller with their KT-LCD3-USB Display. (compared to the KD-51C on my Sondors X, I find it superior, the KD-51C limits current as you reach Top Speed far sooner than the KT-LCD3) Those upgrades and a 58T chainring will power my Single Speed, Electric White Lightning to just shy of 33mph (fresh charge and pedaling like Lance Legstrong with my shoes on fire). If you want to go fast, the Folds and their smaller diameter wheels and tires plus the limited aftermarket chainring size are limiting factors. All Bafang geared hub motors share the same max RPM, I believe, bill? So wheel size is a determining factor for top speed. I’m going to upgrade my White, to 3 Speed (parts have been shipped) just to make it easier off the line from stops, but other than it’s 26X4.0 Chaoyang rear tire (if I can find a, like 4.0 treaded tire with a larger ISO for the rear) it will remain otherwise the same as my light weight speedster. It’s light with its narrow rims and aluminum frame. Even the hard case panniers are light and matching Carbon Fiber bar, stem and seat post. I’m hoping all the new Mid Drive Drivers will post honest performance reports. REDDY
  7. Probably not for my Electric Stealth (68.2V 45Ah, 35Amp controller) or Black Lightning (52V 17Ah, 35Amp controller) but I could use it on my 52V 14Ah, 25Amp controller White. But Range is not a problem on any of my bikes nor would I limit the amperage of my 35Amp controllers down to 30. I wouldn’t have a problem, switching batteries by plug, to save 60 bucks, plus tax and shipping. It would also have to be mounted externally. I removed my rack battery on my Black because of exposure to theft (although I use alarms and locks on all), but I lost interest for my plan to solo bike-camp from Denton to Austin and risk my life on even the rural roads, much less, Interstate I-35 service roads on such a trip. The rural roads I drove one trip, pulling my Mobile miPad (homemade pop-top camping trailer) to Austin, which adds considerable mileage to the trip including my ride back, would be totaling close to 600mi. Two Club members in the Corinth Cycling Club, did it on analog bikes a few years ago, unsupported, which initially spurred my interest and enthusiasm, but then reality took a more conservative command of my rational and I remembered how much I dislike that I-35 trip in a car. Horrible Traffic on most of I-35 and adjacent roads. I’ve taken a series of 4 different train lines, from here to reach Austin and that was restful and fun and all I can take a bike but Amtrak is iffy if there is room. https://youtu.be/m5srSyDfvT0 I’m sure some users may find the device helpful, as testimony states and I’ll be interested when someone chimes in here with ride reports, were it was and how far they rode including pictures with 3 part harmony. I’ll have to admit that my own sweet spot on distance without electricity was around 50mi, on my Analog bikes and Centuries were just milestones. Even 50 mi, has not yet made an appearance on my KT-LCD3s’ trip odometers. I’m no longer a Lance Legstrong wannabe, but use my Sondors as primary transportation and my GLM (Green LakeBilly Mercedes) for tot’n ebikes and long road trips. But then in Dog Years … I’m Already Dead. REDDY
  8. That’s what I said and only true for packs that are exactly the same, not only individual cells, including count but even age & health of those individual packs’ cells, like bill’s. That’s also why pack balancing is so important and why advanced chargers are also important for battery pack longevity and health. Mixing one manufactures pack (Sondors) with another rack battery pack (Aliexpress of unknown cells & dissimilar BMS) and connecting them in parallel with a Y connector is asking for a disaster. Yes, bill’s plan with like packs and simply switching is the answer to increase range but that not dissimilar packs using the connector, as the original poster suggests. I used two dissimilar packs (52V, Rack & Triangle) on my Electric Black Lightning in 2015 but never connected them with a Y adapter. I switched pack leads, like bill’s plans. Although I figured I had near a 100 mile range, (ridden both my analog Cannondale & Litespeed Vortex that far in multiple, Hotter N Hell tours) I never tried on my Sondors. We have had a similar debacle here on the forum, in the past. REDDY
  9. Don’t try it unless you want to entertain your friends by speeding past them as a Blazing Ball Of Flames! 1st, if your connecting 2 battery packs that are EXACTLY the same, like two Sondors 48V of EXACTLY the same Ah & in Series, 18650 batteries, ie, GA, PF, B or R, you’ll be doubling the voltage to 96 Volts and that’s beyond the Controllers Design Capabilities. It’s 36-48V. 2nd if they are not exactly the same in every respect,(older-newer different capacities or 18650 versions), the high density & more powerful cells will try and balance the lower capacity cells to their value and a fire or explosion will ensue. Li Ion batteries are more akin to unreliable gunpowder, if not treated within their limitations. Before more conjecture, please go to https://www.electricbike.com/category/technical/ Read several technical articles about Li Ion Batteries, OR, take a video of your experiment. You’ll be the test pilot on that one. REDDY
  10. I believe I’ve read a post by Matt Robertson on changing the Amperage setting on the XS and users experiencing problems. Try reviewing his posts by going to his profile page and look for posts in the 2017-2019 time frame. He doesn’t monitor Sondors anymore he’s gone Sur Ron. But here is the initial post by Matt : https://sondorsforum.com/topic/2074-best-torque-settings-for-the-sondors-x/?do=findComment&comment=7697 REDDY
  11. Wheel size can be changed but that only affects the speedometer reading not actual ground speed. You can find the instructions for your LCD settings under the Instruction Header of the forum. REDDY
  12. Yippy, KI, Yay! If you haven’t forgot the correct charging procedure, plug charger into battery before wall outlet, and the battery level indicator on the top of the battery shows no LEDs, (full should show 3 green and one red) and you’ve measured voltage coming out of your charger (should be 42V) with your multimeter and after turning on the battery switch and measuring no or very low voltage from the battery base, and making sure that the battery is fully engaged in the battery holder… Shop Electrobikeworld & Boltonebikes REDDY
  13. Looks like some pattern of carcass thread weave. Have you tried washing your tires to see what affect that has? If the tires surface is not effected, I wouldn’t be too concerned. I’d only guess under inflation, because that’s the most common of tire issues, and heat generated might have some affect. I use a gallon freezer bag with a slot cut on the hub side to slide over the brake disc to keep it from becoming contaminated. I also use this milk crate, with pipe insulation borders, to work on my wheels, fix flats and any other wheel/ tire maintenance. Saves the motor cable exiting the motor axel and bending the Brake Disc. REDDY
  14. My trip last November, was a little too late for maximum color at the campgrounds around the Park Headquarters and Lodge (no flies), but lower elevations on the Talimena Scenic Drive were spectacular. The old Lodge that was built in the late 1800s was a spectacular example of “Parkaitecture”that the term was coined in many park buildings in the National Park System in their construction (https://www.nps.gov/subjects/architecture/parkitecture.htm) I had the opportunity to visit it before it’s demise in the 80’s, motorcycle camping. On an another Colorado Trail, analog bike camping trip, before electricity was discovered in the 80’s, I met the Director of the Arkansas State Parks at the Needelton Siding of the Durango / Silverton Steam Train. He and his hiking companions, were waiting for a return train trip back to Durango and I disembarked, to take the adjacent trail in route to join the Colorado Trail on my bike and camp for a couple of nights on my way back to Durango, on my Cannondale Camper. Shown here at the Denton Downtown (then yet to be completed) Rail Station. REDDY
  15. YaBum, Please document your whole process of unpacking, assembly, test rides (any problems) and adventures on your Fold XS. We don’t have many FoldXS owners’ documentation on the Forum. Personally I’m interested in where you’ll ride while Camping. I’ve made several trips to Queen Wilhelmina State Park in Arkansas, in late October and November. It has the greatest Fall color and most varied plant life in the South. If your interested, check with Park Staff on optimal dates and make campsite reservations early because it’s a popular venue in the Fall. Although the hiking trails are too rugged for cycling, the park road is a spectacular ride and it shouldn’t be that far an Adventure for you. I went last year and will probably go again this year. https://www.arkansasstateparks.com/parks/queen-wilhelmina-state-park REDDY
  16. So it’s still scheduled for October Delivery as originally stated? REDDY
  17. I joined the Indigogo campaign on it’s second day, Feb 3, 2015. Got My Original on July 15th. I quit keeping milage records @ over 17,000 miles when I installed my 3rd Motor, second 750Watt. ‘But I also ride my other Sondors, a 3rd Gen Aluminum Custom Narrow, has over 2000 and my New Sondors X, in the process of transition, only has about 90, I think.
  18. The correct procedure would be to replace the complete Bafang 8Fun Geared hub motor. There is not a source of internal parts available, except maybe from the manufacture in China. The most common failure in our hub motors are the magnets becoming loose inside the motor case. That will usually cause grinding, or other various noises and sometimes causing the motor not to rotate, in one direction or the other. Loose magnet(s) can cause other internal damage. Yours is the first bearing failure reported on the owners forum. Replacing the internal assembly of the new motor inside your existing motor case will simplify replacement without requiring re-spoking the wheel. The cause might be determined by inspection but moving parts do fail and maybe undeterminable. I buy new motors from a supplier on Aliexpress and this link is in the previous post on motor replacements under this same header. I suggest reading that complete thread for further information. Always use your existing motor model number when ordering a replacement and communicate with the vendor about your exact need before pushing the buy button. There is a nation wide sale on goods from China that ends after October 7th. https://eunorauebike.aliexpress.com/store/904105 REDDY
  19. Scratch That Last Entry … Brain Flatulence. My thinking was distracted and excited by the fact that you could hear movement inside the motor, while I was listening to, ‘Pretzel Logic’ by Steely Dan! If your Smart Step had at least a 48V battery, a higher watt, rated 500watt motor, would add a higher top speed and better acceleration but on 36V, I don’t think you’d experience much of a noticeable difference. It is possible and if you are considering further upgrades, like controller and battery, advisable. A 750watt motor requires a higher 35amp rated controller with the larger HiGo connector on the controller (I’m pretty sure it can’t be fitted inside the Smart Step’s frame) to match the larger mating end on the motor cable and again at least a 48, 52 or 60Volt battery. Internally the 3 versions of the Bafang 8Fun geared hub motors are identical except for the fixed magnet mass. If you mounted a 52V battery and 25 or 35Amp controller on the rear rack, the Smart Step with its tall wheels, would be a 30MPH +, eBike. You’d have to change the crankset, to something much larger for your legs to keep up. My Electric White Lightning, started out as a 3rd generation Sondors Custom Narrow, a one release version of the Original Fat with the options of; narrower wheels & tires, 26x4.0", an Aluminum Frame and Suspension Fork. As with all my Sondors, I modified it. Added a 52V battery from Electrobikeworld, then added a 25Amp Controller & a 58T crankset, but left the 350W single speed motor. It’s a 32.7mph bike on a fresh charge, flat pavement, no wind. It runs quite happily at over 1100watts. I don’t use pass 5 or full throttle for long, a mile or two, at most on a 40mph speed limit 2 lane road on my route to and from home, to keep the motorists from running me over. I’m blessed by having a Trailway to ride on, to the towns in either direction from my home. It’s just a few miles of rural roads to get to the Trailway. I rode it today on a 20mi round trip on errands. It’s a BEAR from a dead stop and I have to use throttle and PAS settings to get up to speed, to my natural cadence sweet spot of 20mph but I can reduce to PAS 1 or 2, depending on headwind and terrain thereafter and stay @ 20mph. I can’t decide to upgrade it further, although I have a spare 750Watt Bafang and a 68V BMW automobile battery module I had planned to upgrade it with. It’s fun to ride like it is when I want a better workout than my other two Sondors, with it’s steep gearing. It requires much more human input from stops but even slightly more at cruse. My legs have to work harder on it than the other 2 eBikes, the Electric Black & Stealth Lightnings. REDDY
  20. The best way to get a direct replacement is to use the motors model number on your existing motor. You should check for Current on the Controller side of the Connector, on the cable from the controller to motor cable with your multimeter, while powered on and thumb throttle depressed, to verify if it is or isn’t getting current from the controller. Controllers are the most common failure, when neither PAS & Throttle fail to deliver power. The 3 larger power terminals in the connector are power the 6 smaller are hall sensor. I have used 2 different Aliexpress providers for 750Watt upgrade motors in the past several years but this is the one most recently. I’ve noticed what did shipped for free on FedEx, now includes shipping fees and state sales tax, from various motor suppliers. But mine have been delivered, pre-pandemic, within about 10 days Fedex. As always, I advise : always communicate with the vendor your specific need before pushing the buy button. https://eunorauebike.aliexpress.com/store/904105 REDDY
  21. That would be a fantastic addition for the RockStar but you’ll need to convey that to Sondors.com. That is not us and we are not monitored by the Company. We are independently owned and operated by other Sondors owners. Don’t forget to add updates and pictures, of your modification here in the forum and in the Gallery. Let us know if we can expect it on future RockStar editions. Sondors is legendary on continually upgrading the line of their models. REDDY
  22. I have that same 1st Gen Sondors Original and because of the heavy paint on the head tube, the serial number is hard to see but on mine is quite readable under bright light. But “2015?”, doesn’t sound like a valid serial number. I’m not aware that Sondors kept records of serial numbers on file, from the early campaigns. I believe they were there for owners to help identify stolen bikes with law enforcement and now to register bikes with Sondors.com Some later campaign serial numbers are underneath bikes on the Bottom Bracket Shell that is mislabeled on the graphical depiction in another thread “Virtual Map”, on the Forum, as Bottom Bracket Frame. REDDY
  23. I have that same 1st Gen Sondors Original and because of the heavy paint on the head tube, the serial number is hard to see but on mine is quite readable under bright light. But “2015?”, doesn’t sound like a valid serial number. I’m not aware that Sondors kept records of serial numbers on file, from the early campaigns. I believe they were there for owners to help identify stolen bikes with law enforcement and now to register bikes with Sondors.com Some later campaign serial numbers are underneath bikes on the Bottom Bracket Shell that is mislabeled on the graphical depiction in another thread “Virtual Map”, on the Forum, as Bottom Bracket Frame. REDDY
  24. Did you follow the prescribed charging procedure posted here on the forum and on Sondors.com ‘s website under the header, Support? https://shop.sondors.com/pages/assembly REDDY
  25. If you do determine that no power is leaving the controller towards the motor or the motor is the culprit, I suggest contacting ElectroBikeWorld and ask Nick for a price on a new higher power Controller & LCD combo or if it’s the motor, for a price of a replacement. Always contact suppliers and discuss your needs in detail before pushing the Buy Button. REDDY
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