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Reddy Kilowatt

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Everything posted by Reddy Kilowatt

  1. Kealolo, Your preamble included muscular difficulties with your thighs, which contain the largest muscle groups in our bodies, that produce the most power. The other caveat is that hills is just a general term and there are hills, then there are "HILLS” and Hawaii is a mountainous island group. I’d suggest that most of our 40,000 owners do ride on mostly flat routes judged by posts on this Forum since Sondors were introduced in 2015. BUT, Colorado owner Houshmand Moarefi, rode his 1st generation Sondors 36V - 350Watt, up the highest pass in Colorado but that fried the motor.... On the upside, that led to his 750watt motor upgraded that is posted here on the Forum. Member Matt Robertson, in California, has a home in a particular hilly area and led him to upgrade his Sondors Original, to the 750Watt motor, upgrading that Sondors, once again, to AWD, with front and rear 750watt motors .... then building a 750Watt Bafang BBSHD mid drive with that motor that cost more than our Original 1st generation Sondors, to contend with hills. Finally, he has purchased a Sur Ron mid drive eBike. https://lunacycle.com/sur-ron-x-bike-black-edition/ There are a lot of misconceptions about eBikes, their components and motor watt ratings. Unlike Lightbulbs, that are our most familiar wattage rated devices, which actually utilize the actual watts they're rated at, eBike motor manufactures can rate their motors as they wish. Even one of the Sondors X most common comparison, the Rad Rover eBike, that use the same 500watt motors that are rated differently. https://youtu.be/7K87AIiXFpY My 750watt labeled motored Sondors Original uses 1,400 watts under full power and my 350Watt labeled motored Sondors 2nd Gen Custom Narrow (probably the best Sondors ever available but no longer offered) will use 1,100 watts under full power. Likewise, riding up the steepest hill near were I live, on my Litespeed Vortex in the DFW MetroStool, for decades, before I bought eBikes and retired from emulating Lance Legstrong, I could generate over 1,000 watts as registered on my Power Tap power meter. All human power. https://youtu.be/gfcJuFtEcW Fortunately that hill was less than a eighth of a mile long before the grade lessened but it was the most popular route with various cycling groups in the region to challenge that hill. North Central Texicans are considered “Flatlanders" but that label seems quite disingenuous while riding the most popular yearly event in the state, the Hotter N Hell in Wichita Falls. https://www.hh100.org You might be able to ride a SondorsX in your environ but that’s a maybe you might regret and not be satisfied with its performance. The choice that is likely to meet your needs is the most hill capable Sondors to date. The Sondors MXS. It would be my next purchase and I’ve spent more than that on upgrading my Sondors. I've thought of a good comparison to equate to your last question in the last line of your post. Yes, quite a few of us do. In the general aviation society of privately owned aircraft its not unusual for owners up spend a thousand dollars a Knot on upgrades chasing maximum performance. REDDY
  2. Yeah Bruce, at least you’ve got a mid drive and able to carry Denture Cream and Viagria in your cute lil basket. Only Real Men and Exceptional Women ride Sondors....... EBike with a Vengeance! Oh wait ... and those gay guys are just FABULOUS! https://www.thesun.co.uk/tvandshowbiz/10735346/bruce-willis-sheds-hardman-image-as-he-wears-bicycle-helmet-while-zooming-on-his-electric-bike/ Yippie Tye
  3. Hi Bjoern. The graphic display of battery capacity is never very accurate and setting the value is trial & error.... a guessing game at best. My own battery graphical displays just acts as a reminder to check the actual voltage numbers displayed on a different screen than current speed and wattage. If the bars on the display are less than half total, it’s a reminder to check the voltage and that the voltage starts dropping more rapidly as it nears the battery’s BMS low voltage cutoff. It’s also the point where I switch to PAS 0 during downhills just to maximize reserve. Unused battery capacity, is capacity you don’t have to replace, an important tenet of overall battery longevity. The concept I equate, to how I pilot my aircraft. "The three most useless things in aviation are runway behind you, altitude above you, and fuel not in your tanks". Only once did I ever have to peddle my 1st Gen Indiegogo 36V, 8.8Ah, 15amp, 350Watt, Sondors Fat, the last couple of miles home after the battery low voltage cutoff. REDDY
  4. Sorry to have to tell you but even the geared hub motored Sondors (more torque than direct drive hub motored bikes) are not good hill climbers without significant human power pedal assistance. That’s the prominence of mid drive eBikes and so far, Sondors has not entered that market. Although you might be able to struggle up a few hills with mostly throttle on the 48V /500watt Sondors X, the use of max power results in a lot of heat being generated inside the motor and excessive heat destroys components, especially in a particularly hilly environment. See ;https://boltonebikes.com/blogs/news/which-motor-should-i-choose-for-my-electric-bike?_pos=3&_sid=a80389be4&_ss=r The stark reality is that hill climbing ability costs more because all the components that produce more power are more expensive. REDDY
  5. Hi Bjorne, you’ll need to review the LCD Setup Video provided by Kyle of Bolton Bikes. You’ll need to change wheel size settings to 29’’ inches. That Should Do It. https://sondorsforum.com/topic/241-kt-lcd3-user-manual-and-setup-lcd8h-everything-you-need-to-know-sondors-ebike/ REDDY
  6. This Forum is VAST with thousands of entries and it’s not always easy to find the info that members or visiting non-members are looking for. yippie ki yay REDDY
  7. Hello Swamp616, No not possible. Have you checked and read the thread on your Thin’s LCD in Instructions, here on the Forum? REDDY
  8. I can’t speak to the reliability or anomalies that might be reported by the newer color LCD display. I don’t use that display but rely on the KT-LCD 3, but hall sensor failures are, Almost Always, due to the Lg Higo motor connector, under the right chainstay not fully connected. The exceptions could be to moisture/water incursion into the motor or connector or below⬇️. The Hall Sensor system is not a replaceable part but integral within the motor and its windings. But since that error and the throttle error both disappeared, I’ll assume that with powering off then powering back on of your bike, that the controller (or maybe even the display) rebooted and corrected theses displayed errors. The electrical cut out is due, most likely, to either the battery’s low voltage BMS (battery management system) cut off function, set to stop the battery’s voltage from going so low that it can’t be charged or recovered, or the same setting in the controllers design to do the same, due to low battery voltage. Although the voltage dropped so low to cut off the current, the battery, recovered its voltage somewhat (due to individual cell balancing) after a time and you were able to restore power. See: https://www.electricbike.com/introduction-lithium-18650-batteries/ https://www.electricbike.com/motor-tech-learn-the-terms-part-1/i There is a lot of useful info @ electricbike.com and you should review the ones you’ll find informative under the technology header. Sondors eBikes are not good hill climbers, that is the prominence of mid drive motor eBikes. Nor are Sondors eMotorcycles as designate as eBikes with PAS . They perform best when peddled, as a major part of the motive force. The better more powerful class of eBikes designed for Hills that are Higher Powered Bikes, that also serve as eMotorcycles look here. https://lunacycle.com/sur-ron-x-bike-black-edition/ REDDY
  9. Well, I’m 6’ and I can’t reach the ground on either of my two Sondors with my butt in the saddle. yippie ki yay One’s an Original Fat and the other a 2nd Generation Custom Narrow, that’s even taller than my Original. I dislike dismounting at stops (seldom make full stops at stop signs where traffic is not a problem) and stops, where I don’t want to dismount, I stop next to the crub so I can use it as foot rest. Even on the trailway, that I ride (without curbs), at cross street intersections with lights, I use the base of the pole that holds the button to activate the crosswalk light to rest a foot on. The Step, because it has no top tube, is rather easy to dismount where there are no steps or a rise to accommodate a foot. That’s kinda what cyclists do. You’d be surprised how those accoutrements make themselves evident when you look for them. It takes some time to become competent. In lieu of such advantages to prop a foot on, the most obvious two adaptations are tires with a smaller diameter. A 26" x 1.75" tire will lower the bike height 1-1/4" but I wouldn’t be comfortable with something with that little rubber between the rim and the road on a heavy bike because snake bite flats will be more likely. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/snakebites.html But a 26" x 2" tire would afford a inch of height reduction and if you keep the tires properly inflated (small high pressure tires leak down faster than larger tire and because of larger tires greater volume of captive air, have lower pressure at full inflation so larger tires leak down slower) so smaller tires require checking at least every few days, but with the 2" tires there shouldn’t be a problem with snakebite flats. Even smaller wheels and tires would lower the heights, even more but would require building new wheels, at least a total rebuild of the rear with your existing motor laced into the new smaller rim with a smaller tire. Been done here by member BikNut on a Sondors Fold and documented here (search is posts). A matching front wheel is most like available already built. You might speak to a competent local bike shop about the cost. I built new better Double Wall rimed wheels with better quality and heavier gauge spokes and superior tires, for my Original. You could also have a competent bike shop take a 1/2" to 3/4" off the Seat Tube so the seat post could clamp lower. That process requires shorting the seat tube, then drilling a small strain relief hole on the back side on the tube, at the point the slot, that already exists will end, when extending that slot. It’s there to allow the seat tube the flexibility to securely grip the seat post by the seat tube Clamp tightening collar. If none of the above resolutions prove sufficient .... maybe training wheels. REDDY Don’t forget to post pictures of your bikes to our Owners’ Gallery.
  10. I asked at Bolton , some months ago and although their CS person who answered my query was not Kyle (the guy in the know) and they said they had not taken one apart but were not sure if it was better than the 12 mag open disk and sensor. No info on the magenta count. I’ve looked for that email reply, so I could forward their answer but could not find it. I’m not sure as to the accuracy of their reply but as with every purchase of eBike equipment always verify compatibility and or questions I/You might have with the Vendor. Edit: Okay found it and it was from the end of July. "Hello Ready, They are a bit more reliable due to the design and not worrying about the magnet moving around, but I don't know that they're any more sensitive or precise than a 12 magnet sensor. Best, Jessica W." " Reddy
  11. I had changed out the PAS Disc Sensor Assembly on my 2015 first Campaign Original when I modified it with 35Amp Controller, 52V Battery and 750watt Bafang, from the 8 magnet system to the 12 magnet system. I had to experiment with various PAS LCD settings to get it to work properly using those combination of upgrade conversions components. This is a wild guess, that it might be an intermittent Hall Sensor, single wire failure. I’m not even remotely sure if that could even cause a surge, but I’ll include that here. The only troubling solution for remedying that would be a Bafang Motor Swap but considering that there are several owners experiencing this anomaly (and all with the same model Sondors MXS, right?) and in 4 years on this forum I’ve not heard of another model having this Surge anomaly, makes that a wild conjecture. This makes me weigh in heavily, that it’s the MXS ‘s particulate combination of components, that are responsible. Is there any combination of factors in place when this happens? Like, following or after the end of acceleration? How often does this occur, in say a mile or 10 minutes? Any combination of settings or circumstances in which it doesn’t occur? Since you’ve trouble shot most of the components and are now focused on the PAS sensor system, and I’m assuming the MXS uses 12 Mag Sensor, trying a less sensitive, 8 sensor mag assembly might be an option. https://boltonebikes.com/collections/electrical-accessories/products/pedal-assist-pas-sensor or trying the enclosed single piece PAS assembly https://boltonebikes.com/collections/electrical-accessories/products/single-piece-pedal-assist-pas-sensor I’ll probably swap and try this on my Sondors Custom Narrow, as part of the continuing upgrade process in the coming months and use it on my Original, also, just because it’s enclosed. I have had PAS system problems; magnet wheel & sensor movement from chain dropouts that moved the disc on the BB spindle and the enclosed system should eliminate that. Lastly, I suggest that it might be some inherent controller anomaly that occurs because of controller design fault. My own highly modified Sondors Original has the opposite kind of fault, almost always but not every time, occurring during the first few miles of operation with a fully charged 52V battery, now because of its age and over 10,000 miles total time, regularly full charges to 58.2 V. I’ll get a. short interruption of power, maybe one second under PAS 1 and pedaling in a low gear in my warm up cadence. This might occur twice (but less often) during the first couple of miles and never in rapid succession. It’s usually not during high power demand and if it was I’d consider it Controller High Current Clipping because of the high output of my 35Amp controller at full throttle or PAS 5 setting (over 1400 watts) which I never use during that first few miles of my rides and not in effect during these power dropouts. I have no conclusive evidence of what causes it but just consider it a Controller Design Anomaly. Not near as problematic or dangerous as a surge. I have considered it might be connected to the power interrupt function of the switch in my very sensitive Magura MT-5e Brake Levers switches but that PROBABLY wouldn’t account where it occurs during the first few miles of my ride. The only constant that I can equate to it is high battery voltage and low current demand. Gofigg’r. LEMMENO. REDDY
  12. I’m not aware of any Fold Specific Videos for rear tire removal but you could search YouTube for eBike rear wheel removal. My advice is to go to a local bike shop for owner assisted service on tire replacement. Most FRIENDLY bike shops will be glad to show and instruct you so you’ll end up with an new rear tire installed and repair instructions for a nominal fee. REDDY
  13. TWAS THE NIGHT BEFORE FESTIVUS REDDY
  14. It just takes a 48v battery to convert it to run on 48 V and the appropriate charger.
  15. No 48V replacement battery is made to install in the frame for the Step, that I’m aware of. You can add an after market 48V to a rear rack but it’s not plug and play. It requires some adaptation. Not a job for a novice. REDDY
  16. What is the picture supposed to represent? What is the measured output voltage of your charger? REDDY
  17. You’ll need to replace your battery with at least a 48V and when they’re in Stock, the Sondors offered 48V, is a best deal in the marketplace. A 52V battery will give you the best performance you can currently obtain with available aftermarket upgrades. If you’ll ride your Sondors like it’s intended, as an eBike and not pretend it’s an eMotorcycle by using mainly throttle, the 350Watt Bafang motor will perform admirable and reliably with the added higher voltage and Ah battery upgrades, but the addition of the 35Amp controller will mostly just drain that 36V battery in the short term, without adding much benefit in performance. The 36V, 8.8ah battery is too weak to perform well and the 35Amp controller was never intended to mate with that low a current and capacity battery. This 2nd Gen Sondors Custom Narrow, no longer available and probably the best all around Sondors ever produced. Has an after market 52V battery, 25 amp controller but retains the 350 watt motor / Single Speed Freewheel and can reach 34 MPH in optimal conditions. It’s my fast nimble Electric White Lightning. It doesn’t accelerate as quickly as my 7 speed, 52V, 35 Amp Controller, 750 watt Bafang, Electric Black Lightning, Heavy Hauler but it’s 40 pounds lighter but they both have an identical top speed. REDDY
  18. I’d try adjusting the PAS settings in your LCD setup. I’ve noticed a somewhat similar surge but it was only occurring in PAS-5 in my 52V 750watt 35Amp controller Original and after reconfiguring the PAS settings in my KT LCD 3, I’m not experiencing it anymore. REDDY
  19. Switching the batteries would be my first step to try and trouble shoot the fault. My next guess, without any true electrical info about the battery’s actual capacity, is that there is mechanical drag somewhere in/on the bike. Brake, Tire (even severely under-inflation), Motor itself (Stator dragging on a permanent magnet), front wheel bearings too tight and binding (very common problem on a few of the Chinese bikes I own and reported by others here on the forum. I’d check the voltage in the faulty battery at full charge. Every eBike owner should own a Multimeter. A 48V battery should read about 53V at Full Charge. Your XS 25 Amp, controller will supply more current delivery than the X 20 Amp controller and this means less range, if all user demands are equal. This will be most evident it you use a lot of throttle. Any unintended current drain could be the problem. I’d check the temperature, on the bike with the faulty discharging battery, to see if the controller or hub motor is hot. A rapidly discharging battery, unless it’s not truly @ Full Charge, will produce a lot of heat as it rapidly discharges from a short circuit somewhere in the system. REDDY
  20. The reality of your particular KD51C Display is, the ONLY replacement that will work with your controller is from Sondors.com, because all Sondors eBike (except the first Indiegogo Campaign Original Fat) use controllers matched with their LCD that use proprietary communication protocols. (If you replace the Controller to LCD cable, Higo cap you can operated your bike without the LCD). The only other option is to replace both your existing Controller & Broken LCD with one’s from one of our approved vendors that use the generic protocol and work, not only all Sondors eBikes but the vast majority of other eBikes that use the KT Controllers and KD/KT - LCDs, for geared Bafang Hub Motors. As with buying any 3rd party replacement parts or accessories, always communicate with the vendors, your problem and needs to verify you get the exact parts you need. ‘Bolton eBikes can supply both the 25Amp Controler (an upgraded that is a match for your 250Watt Bafang geared hub motor [identical to the rest of the world’s 350Watt Bafang] for Sondors triangle batteries and the (in my opinion better KT-LCD8H) Color Display that is much easier to program than your existing model. https://boltonebikes.com/collections/motor-controllers-and-displays/products/kt-lcd8h-new-color-display The 25Amp controller will add some performance gains for your Sondors X7. https://boltonebikes.com/collections/motor-controllers-and-displays/products/36v-48v-25a-sondors-motor-controller-free-shipping The video in this link will guide you thru the new LCD Setup. https://sondorsforum.com/topic/241-kt-lcd3-user-manual-and-setup-lcd8h-everything-you-need-to-know-sondors-ebike/ Alternately you can find similar replacements here at electrobikeworld https://electrobikeworld.com/t/sondors-e-bike Lindsey @ EletroBikeWorld is one of our long established, reliable and trusted vendors. I believe you’ll find that the replacement parts, Controller & LCD Combo for your SondorsX7, are cheaper from either vendor than just the Sondors.com replacement LDC. Let Us Know How It Goes. REDDY
  21. What? .... Bad Weather Keeping You From Riding? As I recall, from my youth way back in 61. "🎶NOTHING CAN STOP THE DUKE OF EARL🎶‘. The summer of that year, I spent on Kangaroo Lake, in Door County, Bailey’s Harbor Wisconsin. It’s been a frosty, unusually cold Autumn, even down here in North Central Texas and we’re expecting the possibility of a wintery mix before day break. Reddy
  22. There are literally a hundred recommendations here for accessories that fit the XS, because all other models of the Original Fat and the XS, use MOSTLY, the same upgrades and accessories. I was under the impression that the XS uses the Same; 26 x 80mm wheels and 26 X 4.9 Chaoyang tire as other Sondors Fat models. What does it say on your tires’ sidewall? This forum is vast and mostly underused by those looking for information. Simply look in https://sondorsforum.com/forum/6-sondors-ebike-accessories/ As far as getting help with the problems and replacement parts from the Sondors Company, it relies almost exclusively on the Facebook Group. You need to go to the Sondors Storm Owners Group on Facebook. Once there ask to join. Once inside, there is a link to a support form that you can use to get to Sondors tech support. While in the Group, I suggest opening up a thread and asking the community for help on this as well. That will trigger folks' to tag the Sondors support reps who frequent that group and who are tasked with fast-tracking help in situations like yours - assuming they do not see your post themselves and contact you directly. https://vimeo.com/349762157 REDDY
  23. There are literally a hundred recommendations here for accessories that fit the XS, because all other models of the Original Fat and the XS, use MOSTLY, the same upgrades and accessories. I was under the impression that the XS uses the Same; 26 x 80mm wheels and 26 X 4.9 Chaoyang tire as other Sondors Fat models. What does it say on your tires’ sidewall? This forum is vast and mostly underused by those looking for information. Simply look in https://sondorsforum.com/forum/6-sondors-ebike-accessories/ As far as getting help with the problems and replacement parts from the Sondors Company, it relies almost exclusively on the Facebook Group. You need to go to the Sondors Storm Owners Group on Facebook. Once there ask to join. Once inside, there is a link to a support form that you can use to get to Sondors tech support. While in the Group, I suggest opening up a thread and asking the community for help on this as well. That will trigger folks' to tag the Sondors support reps who frequent that group and who are tasked with fast-tracking help in situations like yours - assuming they do not see your post themselves and contact you directly. https://vimeo.com/349762157 REDDY
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