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Reddy Kilowatt

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Reddy Kilowatt last won the day on May 16

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About Reddy Kilowatt

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    Reddy Kilowatt Forum Moderator

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  1. The most common error is that one or both of the brake lever interrupt switches is not releasing all the way causing the current interruption function. This most commonly occurs after a fall or when replacing /changing handlebars or adjusting the brake calipers or levers. Disconnect the Higo connectors between the levers and controller, one by one then both and see if power is restores. LEMMENO REDDY
  2. Make sure your PAS magnet disc is touching it’s sensor pick-up, throughout its rotation, it’s behind the chainring on the bottom bracket spindle. REDDY
  3. Contact Sondors.com for Help with your battery. https://sondors.com/reviews/sondors-step/ Reddy
  4. My first suggestion in trouble shooting your problem, since you don’t know how to remove the battery is for you to review all videos relating to the Sondors Step on this link. https://sondors.com/reviews/sondors-step/ REDDY
  5. This forum is not Sondors.com, rather the owners’user group operated and supported by other owners. Have you been reprograming your Controler setting thru accessing the options menu in the LCD? REDDY
  6. Go to their website, Open the Support Heading and Submit a Request. REDDY https://sondors.com/support/ticket/
  7. Why yes they can. Some have gone as low as 3.5" low profile. https://boltonebikes.com/collections/accessories/products/fat-bike-low-profile-street-tire And If you peruse the Sondors Accessory Section on this forum you’ll find suggestions, I should clean up the dead links in there but when would I ride? REDDY
  8. @Rick frost That is usually caused by 1) the motor to controller big Higo connector is not securely seated together, water incursion or a bent or broken pin around the inside perimeter of the male side plug half. 2) Alternately, if the bike was left out in the rain or ridden in the surf, it could be due to rust damage inside the motor. 3) Lastly if a magnet inside the motor housing has come loose, it’s possible it could have damaged some of the Hall Sensor System. Of course the only way to verify the last two scenarios is to open up the motor case. But the magnet issue, usually, Usually reveals itself by limiting the motors reverse rotation or making some otherwise new noise when rotated. The last two scenarios could also apply to @MarSmith ‘s problem. Lemmeno. REDDY
  9. HOWDY Bar 1 2 3, Well, this ain’t my first Rodeo. That was about 1964 in Tioga Texas at the Rodeo Grounds. This here be Texas and on that town’s, one cross street square ... "It Weren’t Even a Square", was only a fourth of a square, where the old timers played checkers in front of the long closed hardware store and we’d go into to town for the $1.85 plate lunch at the Drug Store, which included dessert, (the sweet course) after the main meal, w/2 vegetables, and your beverage, way back when. That’s where I lived and worked on the 2B— (Two B Bar) Black Angus Cattle Ranch, that we affectionately nicknames "El Rancho Costa Plenty" where the only entertainment was a transistor clock radio or the Rat Shot War, Don’t Ask. I learned to ride on the backs of Black Angus Steers, before serious bikes! Yippie Tie Yi Yo. REDDY
  10. How did you check the hand brakes? Here is why I ask. If the interrupt switch in the Mechanical Disc Brake Levers, is not operating correctly, no power to the motor. The way you trouble shoot, is to one by one, disconnect each brake Higo connector and check for power. LEMMENO REDDY
  11. I say that because that has been the experience here of my many years on this forum. I’ve researched ebikes and built them, starting in 2013 and still spend a large part of everyday volunteering here, to answer questions for other owners and prospectives (I should be making face masks for hospital and first responder personal but I’m hoping you’ve got that covered) and scouring the Vast InterWeb for the latest and greatest on eBikes, while typing on thIs Giant iPad Pro like a IBM Selectric typewriter, with one finger... Now That! is a great example of a run on sentence. The ultimate and usual performance upgrades on the Sondors Fat Bikes, usually referred to as the Original, Sondors X and the SX, can end up with 52V 20Ah batteries, 35amp Controllers and 750 watt motors. Almost the same for the Fold. 48V battery(i’m not sure of the capacity) 25amp Controller and 750 watt motor. If you’ve done you homework on ebikes, do you wonder why there is no Thin X or SX? My two Upgraded Sondors; a Fat, now called the Electric Black Lightning, has 3 - 52V batteries with a total capacity of 51Ah, a Super 35 amp controller and 750watt motor. My Sondors Custom Narrow, (the name Sondors gave them and now discontinued because he didn’t want the name or model, to interfere with the upcoming release of the new Thin) has a 52V 20Ah battery, 25amp controller and 350watt motor at present (the 750watt motor is in a box) and now called the Electric White Lightning. Both bikes are capable of 33mph top speed but the Black gets there much quicker, even though it’s 35 pounds heavier. With the Thin, you’re limited to the low capacity 36V 10.5 Ah battery (no other Sondors Battery is available) and the After Market 52V batteries WILL NOT FIT IN THE BATTERY BOX. The only way to use them is to remove the Sondors Battery Box, one of the most attractive attributes of the Fat & Thin Sondors (and almost the only Sondors’ parts remaining on my Fat and White) and use a nylon rip stop battery bag. And that’s exactly what member Chad Lauterbach had to do when he ordered a Luna 52V high capacity triangle battery for his Thin, upgraded commuter . According to his own measurements it should have fit but he just wasn’t accurate enough in his measuring. You can build your own lightweight Bass Wood Battery Box and I have plans around here somewhere for when I convert this Fat using all my removed Sondors equipment There is no Bafang Geared 8Fun motor upgrade in either 500Wwatt or 750watt that fits the Thin. Some other manufactured motor might, You Can Be The Test Pilot! Which reminds me when my Father wouldn’t let me buy a 40 Ford Coupe with a Chevy 265ci bored to 301ci, because "you’ll always gonna have trouble when you go swapping motors". He did instill, in my conscience at a very young age, though, the value of not driving close to the curb, where all the nails and glass collects and he always like the Sound of Smitty’s. )) So my estimation is that your better off buying a Fat, because it’s best attribute, is as an upgrade platform, and installing narrower, smaller tires after giving the Sondors Chaoyangs a test, you’ll end up with a superior street machine than any Thin. I do use a large rear tire. My latest is the Vee Tire Co. Apache 26 x 4.5 Slick. A Huge Slick with the lowest rolling resistance in eBiking, on a wider rim I built, than my original Sondors, but to improve handling, I use a smaller Vee Tire Mission Command II, 26 x 4.0 on a narrow rim I built. My EBL handles like a MotoGP bike. It has much quicker, sharper, controlled steering, than the motor boat handling when turning, the Giant, Original Fat Front. Looks Cool but if you’re not riding on Snow or Dry Sand, it’s a performance deficit. Lots of ladies say, ”Cool Bike", other guys feel intimidated. But that’s not worth the handling negatives. Know what self steer is? I spent 40 years emulating Lance Leg Strong, riding with my shoes on fire on road bikes (and before Armstrong even rode his first bike) but now I ride like Valentino Rossi. )) . In the upcoming months my EWL will go 60V 35amp, (possibly 60amp) 750watt Motor. With its light weight alum frame and light wheel set I’m looking at a 40mph top speed to keep all the AssHats off my rear rack on the 2 miles of 40mph speed limit road, on my first and last legs on my routes from my Lake Side Cabin in an Oak Forest to and to home. ‘That’s All I Got! Over & Out Smoke’m If Ya Got’em REDDY
  12. I don’t know how that top trunk mounts and is secured but it shouldn’t be to difficult to manufacture or devise a way to make them more secure. I made brackets and screwed these hard cases to my Electric White Lightning. They have a rubber gasket around the closing perimeter to seal them. Made to be water resistant, probably not quite water proof but I try not to get caught in the rain. Actually it’s kinda fun to ride in the rain but it takes 2 hours to clean the bikes properly. ‘I don’t know of any, commonality available pannier of pack systems that are waterproof and even the ones, of large capacity designed for touring are available with rain covers that help keep the contents dry. REDDY
  13. Actually, I’ve experience both those mounting failures on my Electric Black Lightning (LCD Mounting Bracket) & Electric White Lightning (Control Buttons). I constructed a new bracket for the LCD. ____i———I___ out of some sheet aluminum. (Lowe’s / Home Depot) If you do this, note that aluminum can usually only be bent to shape once in one direction. Any re-bending will probably break at the re-bend. Thinner is usually better than trying thicker stock for durability. I had stock on hand but brass would probably be easier to work with. K&S @ Hobby Lobby. On the button switches, I use very thin double side sticky foam tape. Doesn’t sound like a very secure or permanent solution but it really is and be sure you position the switch button in exactly the perfect position before the tape gets it’s grip. Tape cut to width, and placed on the bar first. With literally a million of these devices sold and in use, seems that the manufacture would upgrade design or quality of the plastic. Handlebars and objects mounted on them take a beating. I manufactured my own copper bar end to protect the expensive carbon fiber bars on both my bikes. Plastic bar ends are poor protection. If you ride a bike you’re gonna fall. The ends of the bars, almost always take the hit. There have been worse, with lots of bark ground off, but during the next few days this bruise was down to the back of my knee and Ugly. REDDY
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