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Reddy Kilowatt

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Reddy Kilowatt last won the day on September 20

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About Reddy Kilowatt

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  1. You are now a Professionally Trained and Certified Sondors, Smart Step Technician. REDDY
  2. Follow my last recommendation and find a bike shop and follow Sondors.com recommendations ; ASSEMBLY Now that you have your new SONDORS , If you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable with the assembly process, please take your SONDORS to a reputable bicycle professional for assistance. REDDY
  3. No Apology required, for any delay, it gives me time to recuperate from writers’ cramp. I didn’t say anything about turning the bike right side up. Reassemble the 3 washers in the reverse order that you removed them. And for future removal of the rear wheel, loosen the axel nuts but don’t remove the disc brake side, of course the cassette side is captive but don’t totally loosen that nut either. Move the nuts to the threaded end of the axel but leave them on the axel/ The smallest washer slides on the axel first (you have that labeled 2), next # 3, lug pointing outward. See the markings on the surface of #1, that matches the same pattern on the axel nut so place it on last and I’d place the same side outward so it’s contacts the matching surface on the axel nut. You should assemble all those, including the opposite side axel nut, on the axel before replacing the wheel in the bike frame. The slot in the axel where the motor cable exits needs to face the forward. The Axel has Flats that allow the wheel to slide in the "SLOT " (a narrow, elongated depression, groove, notch, slit, or aperture, especially a narrow opening for receiving or admitting something). If you don’t have it and the motor cable in it’s exiting slot, in the axel and the axel flats correctly orientated, the axel will not slide into the Dropout Slot, in the frame. While trying to manipulate the whole wheel, getting the brake disc into the caliper’s slot, you’ll also need to turn the wheel or motor itself, on the gear side, and thus the axel flat, into the correct orientation so the axel flat (faces rearward to pass buy the derailleur hanger) and the thick washer lug on both slide into the frame’s Dropout Slot also in the correct orientation. You’ll have to determine for yourself if the lugs on both thick washers need to be orientated to the front or rear of the slot on either side of the bike (I’m not there to make sure which might hinder installing, in their respective slots but both facing in a like matter. I like to face them to the front (capative end of the slot, not the open end) if possible, because they are more secure and resist twisting from motor torque and spreading the distance between the inner surfaces of the slot, that could occur on the open end of the slot that could over time allow the axel to turn in the dropout. That would be very very BAD! Dont forget that you have to place the chain on the cassette before trying to mount the rear wheel in the dropouts. Remove the chain from the chainring to make it easier. And what are you using the alien wrench that on the floor in the picture for? ‘Using both Google Map and the Yelp App ,do a search for eBike shops. REDDY
  4. I can’t tell if the engagement lugs on that thick washer are engaging the slots in the dropouts in your pictures. Did you now switch that lugged washer from the outside location on the dropout sliding on the motor axel, to the inside? You need to answer this question? That washer locks the motor axel in a fixed location (acting as a torque arm) keepIng the axel from turning, so just the motor case and thus the cassette / freewheel turn when the motor is powered. I’m hoping this is evident, but when sliding the rear wheel back into the dropouts, the Slot In the Hollow Motor Axel, where the motor cable exits needs to face forward so it has the correct orientation to continue to the bikes controller. REDDY
  5. Both the Sondors Charger & Battery have BMS, PCB,s. They protect the batteries from over charging and burning your house down. https://www.electricbike.com/bmss-what-do-they-do/ ‘That doesn’t mean a BMS can’t fail. Electricbike forum member, Spinning Magnets, a major contributor at electricbike.com, had his garage burn to the ground by a LiPo pack that caught fire during charging. They are more volatile and I’ve not heard of a single report of a Sondors Battery catching on fire on this forum. Luna Cycle states that unplugging their charger is not necessary, after a battery is fully charged but Electrobikeworld states the opposite. I checked with both because I wanted to know their position. Any Attorney would advise their bike manufacture to state the safest procedure to avoid liability in case of a fire or other claimed damage. I used to recharge my batteries inside a wood burning stove in my studio, where I keep my bikes. .... I might be playing with (potential) fire but with 5 chargers and batteries over 5 years I’ve become complacent but confident in the reliability of my chargers, even my two Sondors. I always unplug my chargers. Pray for my Safety. Sondors Original 36V 8.6ah 2amp chargers didn’t have a fan but the next gen, 36V 12.8ah 3amp charger does but neither charger, that I have, are problematic nor is the fan. That’s not true for my Luna 52V Advanced charger, who’s fan is now loud and noisy after a few years of use and if it’s on any resonate surface, it sounds like an angry hornets nest. We’ve heard of noisy fan complaints in the past but I can’t remember an inop fan report. ‘Contact Sondors Support ... They owe you a new charger. REDDY
  6. If I’d been a snake it would have bit ya. https://sondorsforum.com/topic/2051-2018-sondors-ebike-kd51c-lcd-setup-manual/ REDDY
  7. How right you are Gunga Din. KMC Just as a point of reference, my Sondors 2015 Original (one of the first ordered and shipped Sondors eBikes) has over 14,000 miles on it. It has required some maintenance, but it’s has been unbelievably reliable. I wouldn’t wish my maniacal chain care procedures on anybody but you can find "White Lightning Clean Ride" at any bike shop, big box store or any online bikes retailer, that is part of my maintenance plan . Use it often, every 50 miles or once or twice a week. My ride partner since the 80’s, Bike Shop Ben, doesn’t think riding less than 50 miles is worth while. He owned a very successful local bike shop for over 35 years and only rode once or twice a week because he was open 7 days. I’m a cyclist and between my two bikes (were originally labeled Sondors), now called the "Electric Black Lightning" & the "Electric White Lightning". I’m closing in on 20,000 miles, between the two, rapidly. https://www.amazon.com/White-Lightning-Original-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B0876SZ5S7 Here is my chain maintenance routine and my chains (cassettes & chainrings) stay clean and last 5 times longer than those using petroleum based oil chain lubes that collect contaminates. (Don’t believe me, go rub you index finger & thumb along just a few links of your chain then rub those fingers together. That crap is grinding your chain, cassettes & chainrings into scrap). The Clean Ride I recommend, excretes those same contaminates when you use it regularly. I only use nickel plated Chains so you can see the crap that accumulates. ‘I’d like to re-hot wax my chains more regularly than I do but here’s the plan. Every two weeks or every couple of hundred miles, I remove my chain and place it in a quart jar 1/3 filled with gasoline and shake, rattle and roll that bottle for a few minutes. Remove and air dry to let all the aromatics evaporate which leaves petroleum distillates (oil residue) that next needs to be cleaned completely out of the chain links, pins and bearings surfaces, so the combination of Hot Paraffin Wax & PTFE, can coat every nook and cranny of the chain by immersing the chain in a second jar or rubbing alcohol and agitating for several minutes to remove the oily stuff. I bought a couple of small crock pots at Good Will for a few dollars each, where I melt my wax concoction, until it’s liquid and immerse the chain after a second, wipe down and air dry. I leave it in the hot wax for 30 minutes moving it around a little to insure it’s getting into the pins and inner surfaces. I fish it out with a old spoke with the end bent in a hook and hang it outside on my ebike work stand to cool enough to wipe down the "outside of the links" with an old but clean gym sock, [(reference only Zappa fans will relate too) formerly owned by Carl Zappa and still damp] that’s developed a hole or two (I’ll never run out of these and one of the joys in my life is a new package of Haines Socks). Not to tromp on an old coffee commercial but “The Best Part Of Waking Up”, AIN’T FOLGERS IN YOUR CUP, but it’s putting on new socks.) I buy my coffee beans from: https://redbirdcoffee.com and I pity those who brew pre-ground Coffee. Every few days, I supplement my hot wax (call it a Brazilian if you like) with White Lightning Clean Ride. I buy KMC 8.99 nickel plated chains https://tinyurl.com/REDDYS-Chains , the plating is super hard and they stay bright with waxing and you could hand-cuff your momma with your used chains and call them jewelry! But I digress. See the youtube video : https://youtu.be/HHr9znwpwmQ REDDY
  8. I suspect you installed the axel washer, with the Dropout Alignment Lugs, on the wrong side of the rear dropout on the brake disc side. That could happen if you removed the axel nut and washer from the axel on that side of the Wheel. OR. if the lugs are not in the dropout slots. Without pictures it’s impossible to tell but you wouldn’t be the first person that has reassembled it that way if that’s it. ‘Most bike shops are not knowledgeable enough to fix a flat on an Electric bike. You could try viewing the procedure for repairing flats on an ebike on YouTube. But it gets pretty routine with time as does maintaining proper tire pressure and lubing the chain regularly. https://sondorsforum.com/topic/2081-visual-map-to-sondors-original-parts/ https://www.electricbike.com/category/technical/ ‘Actually you don’t need to disassemble anything to patch a flat on the rear of your Smart Step. But that procedure and supporting your handle bar grips on spacers so your LCD won’t touch the ground when overturning your bike, are for more experienced owners. I would never turn over my bikes but support them from underneath, under the support between the chainstays and bottom bracket shell with wooden blocks. (Nomenclature is important when speaking bicycle) This is the best reason for finding a LBS (local bike shop) that works on ebikes and starting a relationship with them by buying extra tubes, patch kits, tire tube sealant, tire levers, chain lube (and please use a wax based lubricant often, not oil that collects grit and wears the chain and cogs getting everything filthy) for services and owner assisted repairs so you can learn about your bike. You can probably find local shops online. REDDY
  9. I’ve learned that it’s easy to just step over the top tube with my right leg getting on. But that doesn’t work to dismount, so swinging over to the rear it tough with anything of height behind the saddle. Consider it a yoga move. REDDY
  10. The only wire I mentioned was for you to look inside the throttle for one that could be problematic, not any particular red or green or blue wire. "or the switch on the throttle is intermittent (you can carefully snap the cap off the throttle and physically search for a loose wire or burnt PCB (printed circuit board). The throttle in your picture does not show any visibility damage. Of course you can only listen for noise from the motor turning it backwards by hand, unless you have a Sondors with reverse. The fact that the charger immediately switched off from charging (Showing Green) is another indication that the battery(s) are at full charge. The BMS (Battery management system)in the charger and the battery stop the process of charging immediately, so as not to overcharge the battery and burn down your house. And you always plug the charger into the battery before plugging the charger into the wall outlet. Then IT AIN’T THE BATTERY! It is possible that the connector cable that connects the battery to the controller has a faulty wire or connection in that connector on the cable. Here’s what’s obvious. Any current demand on the battery results in a momentary shutter of the motor but current can’t be maintained to operate the motor at its "high current draw" (flow of electricity, not a place in time) and something is failing at that point. That could be a frayed, loose or shorting wire, maybe inside one of the many possible failure points along the wires path from the battery to the motor. That is most likley, a failed component inside the controller. The other possibility is the same for a failed component inside the motor. That is more likely a possibility is the bike was operated in very wet conditions, ridden in water, like on a shore of lake or ocean surf, left outside in inclement weather or even in a un-heated garage in a climate with drastic heat and humidity changes where condensation can form and collect inside the motor, IE Rust, that is corrosive. Corrosion can cause all kinds of electrical failures. I believe the 36V 8.7Ah batteries for that 2016 Thin are no longer available but superseded by a 48V version... better, if that’s what the previous owner has ordered ...But, IT AIN’T THE BATTERY, unless the owner has empirical data supporting her assumption and I’m not seeing it after all the available info thus far. ‘I’m not troubleshooting by guessing. It’s a process of elimination. I’ve done this my whole adult life, including on multimillion dollar military and civilian jet aircraft where problem solving had people’s lives hanging in the balance. On my own Grumman aircraft too. We are done for now. When you measure the batteries Voltage before and after the failure, we can completely eliminate the batteries. Both batteries. My synopsis at this point Leads me too the conclusion that you should replace the controller, buying it and the compatible LCD from Electrobikeworld.com ....And all and any, necessary extension cables necessary to connect the LCD. Communicate with them (Nick) on the telephone and make sure you explain you are replacing OEM parts on your 2016 Sondors Thin. The only way for you to try and eliminate the motor as the culprit is a visible inspection inside the motor. Since you didn’t answer query about the motors unpowered operation, I doubt you have displaced magnets but it’s still a possibility ... this show you what the inside of a 350Watt Bafang looks like and how to determine if it does. See https://sondorsforum.com/topic/1833-fix-grinding-sound-from-motor-loose-magnets/?tab=comments#comment-6025 That symptom also sounds like a Hall Sensor Failure, mostly caused by the lg Higo connector under the right chainstay not properly seated / connected and reported on the LCD as an error Code 03. You Ain’t Got No LCD to report that! https://sondorsforum.com/topic/2082-fold-x-7speed-weird-flashing-03-info-msg-on-lcd/?do=findComment&comment=7702 ‘I’m too tired to edit out any mistakes Over and Out Dismissed Smok’em if ya Gott’em. FullSizeRender.mov IT AIN’T GOT NO GAS IN IT!
  11. Been discussed here on the forum but nobody has reviewed them. If they don’t inhibit, fast secure cornering .... I’m in. Manufacture says the fit and expand. REDDY
  12. I’ve edited my previous post so review it again. That red LED, is always supposed to be lit on the battery and I’m 90% sure your batteries are not at fault. There are two many indicators showing they are fully charged but that doesn’t mean that the switch on each battery isn't bad [(intermittent) unlikely] or the switch on the throttle is intermittent (you can carefully snap the cap off the throttle and physically search for a loose wire or burnt PCB (printed circuit board) After the battery fails, how long does it take for the battery charger indicator light on the charger to turn from red to green? This the percent charge for a 36V battery pack (approximate) Review all the videos pertaining to Thin on this page. https://shop.sondors.com/pages/assembly ‘Did a Bear Bite Your Thin? REDDY
  13. In the second picture, that capped Higo connector, is for adding the LCD screen. But in that same picture, to the right underneath the right chain stay is the lg Higo connector that connects the Controller to the Motor. Lowe’s or Home Depot sells inexpensive Multimeters when you are buying one buy some cable ties to replace the ones your going to remove to check inside the lg Higo connector for bad, burnt, broken or bent pins (the big bad 4 B’s) Careful, don’t twist that connector and check for moisture inside too. In the first picture the motor cable exiting the motor axel looks fine but that can get damaged in a fall on that side. Make sure the Pass Magnet Wheel and Sensor behind the Chain Ring are making contact thruout it’s rotation. Make sure that the cable from it is correctly plugged into the controller cable. If the batteries both check out, I’m Putting my money on a bad controller but the only way to check the motor is to open up the case. Does the motor turn freely forwards and backwards with out any resistance, clicking or scraping noise? If you had an LCD installed it might reveal an error message as to the problem . REDDY
  14. I have answered recent posts on that USB port not powering new more current demanding phones (but will a very powerful multi Li ion 18650 battery bank that will charge any phone, tablet or laptop) and the one vendors that supplies plug and play front and rear lights (plus horn) if you have that extra Higo connector on your controller. REDDY
  15. If both batteries give the same result then I’d suspect either the controller or the motor it self. That being said to eliminate the batteries we need to know the voltage beginning and at cut out. Those are some of the oldest and lowest capacity batteries ever produced. Make sure the large Higo connector under the right chainstay is securely seated and is there any damage to the motor cable where it enters the motor axel? Reddy
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