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Joe Engineer

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  1. Yeah, I was confused by that message. I have this: https://electrobikeworld.com/products/kt-lcd3-usb
  2. I have a pdf file KT-LCD3-V30.pdf - KT-LCD3 eBike Special Meter. It has www.SZKTDZ.COM at the bottom of the front cover. Been using that one. I just looked and there is another one KT3-LCD_V1_full_en.pdf that has the same C5 table as above. So these refer to different version numbers. I believe the links to the manuals were provided in messages posted here. Not sure how you would tell which version the controller is.
  3. Wow, That C5 table is different from the one in the manual I have. Mine has the maximums divided by various amounts rather than subtracting the increments. Is that verified? I have mine at the Max and I doubt the stock extended battery can supply 25 A, there is a fuse in the battery base. I never checked it , but it may be 20 A.
  4. Matt, I have the pdf of the manual. Some of the terms are incomprehensible at first reading, an I'm an Electrical Engineer. I'm not really sure what C4, Handlebar Speed Limit means. C13 ABS Brakes - What is this about? Can the control provide regenerative braking (using the motor as a brake) and would this harm anything? Anyway, it works as it is and there is need for some experimentation.
  5. Thanks Reddy, I wonder if the controller can be tweaked a little more by adjusting the parameters, but there doesn't seem to be a thorough explanation for many of them. I recall that the Sondors LCD displayed degrees F, Oh well.
  6. Oh yeah, even though I set the readout for MPH (Imperial units) the ambient temperature reads out in degrees C. Any ideas? Not a biggie, but I would like to see degrees F.
  7. This Saturday I installed a 25 A controller and LCD from Electrobikeworld. Mounted the controller similar to what Reddy did above. I did find there was an extra RED cable on the controller but it had male pins instead of sockets like the brake cables. Anyone know what that's for? I left it disconnected. I went through the parameter settings using the settings I got from the Sondors controller. Is there a better English translation of the pdf manual with better description of what each P and C parameter does? Some of them require further study. Took a short ride Saturday afternoon as thunderstorms were headed my way. Today I went for a longer ride following my typical route. With the 36 V 12.8 AH battery there was a noticeable difference. More power climbing hills, better acceleration when using the thumb throttle. Definitely a different feel to it. I find that I was using PAS 2 instead of 3 most of the time and PAS 5 takes off like a rocket. I'm not sure about battery range, but it didn't appear to use a noticeably larger amount,,, time will tell. Overall, a great upgrade without the expense of a larger battery.
  8. Is this a direct replacement for the Sondors standard fat bike? I mean does it need any cable extensions like on the Fold? It looks like it may be a little larger than the stock controller. I have downloaded the manual for the KT LCD 3. I'm thinking this would be the first step in upgrading my bike. Bigger battery can wait for next year.
  9. Post Mortem on my battery cradle- Both of the nuts on the terminals were loose enough for me to turn the wire around. The Negative terminal had heated up enough to deform the plastic in the base and locked the spring loaded terminal in the depressed state. Interesting that it took a year for it to show up. I checked the connections on the replacement cradle and they needed some tightening. Bad quality control, if they even have it where these are manufactured. I think things are back in order on the bike, will rake it out tomorrow.
  10. Are the battery contact pins making good contact? I have a similar power drop out problem and just discovered one of the contact pins in the cradle was not fully extended. It is stuck about half way down. They should extend about 5/16".
  11. Well, I bought a spare battery and a few other parts.To make a long story short, I still had the power drop out problem. I even swapped out the controller to no avail. I noticed I could make the power cut out by applying pressure to the battery as it sits in the cradle. Turns out one of the battery contact pins in the battery cradle was not fully extended. It's stuck about half way down. I have a spare cradle which I'm going to swap out tomorrow. Not sure how easy the stuck pin might be to repair but I'll give it a try.
  12. I've been doing a little research to see if it's possible to take these batteries apart and replace the bad cells. There are YouTube videos showing what's inside and it shouldn't be a huge deal if you can get the same type of replacement cells. I might go ahead and take my bad battery apart after I get the replacement on my bike.
  13. Yep, the thermos bottle-bullet battery. The one I have is the extended range one also. $120 sounds good to me! i can put off any power upgrade until next year. This year I want to replace the tires, which I probably over-inflated and caused a little trauma. I am in West Springfield Massachusetts for postage purposes. Contact me at [DELETED] and we can arrange payment and shipping details. Then I will edit out my email address from this post. Thanks. Joe
  14. I'm not sure I would need the motor but I'm interested if the battery is in good condition.
  15. Is that the 12.8 AH one and is it working? Want to sell it? If it's a reasonable price I might grab it. EDIT: I looked in the Marketplace and see it is listed.
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