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  1. I have a folding version much like the Hollywood Fat tire rack (both wheel support bars fold up for compact storage). I've hauled my Rockstar and my wife's Cruiser hundreds of miles with no issues whatsoever. As you mention Jack, the inside bike is a bit of a hassle but I've found that it's much easier to remove the rear yolk and adapter, load the inside bike first and then place the adapter back on. I thought I had a pic of both bikes but this is the only one I can find, on my way to a ride with the buds.
    1 point
  2. I wanted to reinforce the leg, add a little to the length and increase the footpad size on my 100# Highly Modified Sondors Original (only the frame, fork, battery triangle box & bottom bracket remain original. Found a good diameter plastic tubing to fit over the existing stand leg and slipped a bar stool leg rubber foot over the existing after filling it with Plasticoat. REDDY
    1 point
  3. Clearwater Betty here, just a different email. Thank you for your excellent input. I had thought of switching out the tires but currently the ride is so superior I am resistant. After watching a YouTube or two per your suggestion, I’m going to get back out there and try a few things before I start altering. Thank you. More importantly, if you’re talking about Mahuffer’s on Madeira Beach, or Shadrack’s on St. Pete Beach, they’re both still there. You didn’t mention good food so I’m thinking you’re not talking about Dead Bob’s…but but they are all landmarks and have survived the pandemic!
    1 point
  4. Yes, Mine also! Unfortunately with a weather forecast of rain for the next 3 days... 1 year and 1 month but it did arrive.
    1 point
  5. Until I get a permanent solution, this kickstand works fine on my Rockstar. When I first mounted it, the kickstand wouldn't deploy quite enough (due to the angle of the frame clamp). The weight of the bike pushed it forward, keeping it from standing. I used a Dremmel tool to grind the hinge stop to get the kickstand to deploy another couple inches at the foot/pad.
    1 point
  6. Electrobikeworld.com has the replacement combo with upgrade 25 amp plug & play controller for more acceleration, torque and a few more mph. https://electrobikeworld.com/t/sondors-e-bike I’ll be very interested in your results. From posts here on the forum, you’ll be the first to try that Controller & LCD combo. REDDY
    1 point
  7. We have an excellent MTB trail in my city’s largest park that I want to try once I get used to riding. I haven’t ridden a bike of any kind in over 25 years so I hope the old adage is true. https://www.mtbproject.com/trail/5341257/erwin-park-dorba-trail
    1 point
  8. If it was the Brake Lever Power Interrupt switch, the Throttle would not work either. Your PAS Magnet Wheel, on the Crank Spindle, (should be no more than two business cards thickness away), is too far from the Pick Up, or the cable from the Pick Up, to the Controller, was Damaged by hitting something like a Copper Headed Rattle Moccasin. Very common problem on the Sondors 3 Wheeler. LEMMENO REDDY
    1 point
  9. I have the same battery, as both the Sondors XS & MSX in my Sondors X. If you’ve followed the Charging Procedures, to the letter, in the Official Sondors charging instructions, https://shop.sondors.com/blogs/news/caring-for-your-sondors-battery my first suspicion would be the battery fuse. You should get a Multimeter to diagnose all electrical problems on you bikes. I think you can eliminate the charger as fault but check the output voltage from it, just to make sure, it should be about 54Volts. Then check the battery voltage and if it checks, below the recovery threshold, there are unpublished procedures -OR- no voltage at all, you’ll need to open up the battery to look for a disconnected wire. We recently had that discovered when the member reported a problem, like yours and found the loose wire. Any voltage below 39.5 would be unrecoverable because the batteries & chargers BMS (battery management system) won’t allow it. But there are work arounds, that I won’t detail here now, but LEMMENO, if you discover low voltage, no matter at what level. REDDY
    1 point
  10. High Steven, There are posts here that recommend a few. For a while I modified my Rear Platform Carrier to carry two bikes but because I use that platform to carry camping gear, I relegated to a single pretty inexpensive single, with a ramp, that’s handy with my near 100 pounds Electric Black Lightning. This Electric White Lightning is 40 pounds lighter. https://tinyurl.com/Reddys-Rack I followed these recommendation to buy and haul either of my two bikes, Wednesday it will be three. Mine is slightly different than FlaRob’s and allows the cross members bars that capture the wheels, to be moved to more accurately match the wheel base and wheel diameter. https://sondorsforum.com/topic/1691-perfect-vehicle-carrier-for-the-sonders-fatty/ I’ve also heard that Harbor Freight has a good and inexpensive carrier. But after reviewing the online image, I don’t think it fits any Sondors because the image I saw was a top tube capture rack and those won’t work on a Sondors. Congratulations on getting your license back … I’ll drink to that … actually I already am, hic . As Mr. Roger Says; "time to go to the magic kingdom"! REDDY
    1 point
  11. Great. Even though this is a forum specific for SONDORS eBikes - I'm happy to allow this thread if we finally would be able to get a resolved thread on the internet
    1 point
  12. I spoke with a representative yesterday and he admitted to me that Sondors has dropped the ball and failed its customers in terms of communication and customer service and that they realize there is a serious problem and they are in the process of trying to make it better figuring out how they can better communicate moving forward. There's been a lot of complaints and cancellations and I think the cancellations are escalating quickly. I called to cancel my order and the rep kept telling me that he knew I had done my research and knew that I knew that I was getting tremendous value and he wanted me to not cancel my order so that I could realize that value once the bike was delivered. He also touch base on the ethics aspect and told me that I had committed to a purchase and that I should follow through. I didn't think of it at the time but if we want to discuss ethics we could start with a company taking our money forthwith and having it wrapped up for upwards or even over a year before its customers ever see the product. Sondors needs to tell everyone and make a broad announcement saying exactly what they told me yesterday and admit to dropping the ball in a widespread fashion and openly and freely talk about its failure to serve its customers properly. Now is the time to step up. Make.a widespread honest and open and public announcement and then reach down and pick up the ball and get your act together fast and tell us exactly what you're doing and when in these forthcoming customer improvements. We don't want to see and hear further stall tactics on the customer service front.
    1 point
  13. Well, you got the Ya’ll down pat. I spent a couple of days & nights in Independence with a friend who owned an Oil Exploration Company, bringing in a Well. I like My Sondors so much, I named my favorite LongHorn, "Sondors". REDDY
    1 point
  14. UPDATE: With COVID-19, unfortunately, the experience of recent years can no longer be applied. Containers have become a scarce commodity. The disaster with the EVER GIVEN has not made it better. With the significant impact on the global world market, things are piling up in front of the ports. Simple processes like getting to port, unloading containers and reloading have become much much more time consuming than it usually is. We are sorry about this because we know how painful it is to have to wait longer for your new great bike. We are also just owners. Because (as you know) we are a forum for owners from owners. We also want your bike (especially the new models) to arrive as soon as possible, but we have no influence on that. Please contact the manufacturer support for the latest information regarding your delivery. https://www.wsj.com/articles/ever-given-the-ship-that-blocked-the-suez-makes-it-to-port-11627533834
    1 point
  15. A more accurate estimate of due dates would be really appreciated. I ordered an LX in September 2020 with a February 2021 delivery date - Now nearly 11 months later and still no delivery date. You gotta wonder!
    1 point
  16. I Watched Lassie as a kid, loved it, Dogs are amazing and very clever. Heart breaking when they go.
    1 point
  17. Typical results from personal experience and posts here on the forum, are that if you avoid riding in heavy downpours or continually riding in the rain, water incursions are usually not a problem. But it doesn’t hurt to use some precautions, particularly on the large Controller to Motors Higo connector. WD-40’s name is derived from, "Water Displacement, 40th Formulation". It’s not a lubricant. The connector is engineered to try and prevent water incursions. I have never had this problem in over 20,000 miles on my two Sondors. I wonder if the motor cut-out switch, in a brake lever, is water resistant or water proof. I avoid riding in rain if I can help it. It’s not because of electrical problems but it takes considerable labor to clean my bikes. Never clean your Sondors with a pressure washer. I will say, that on one of my hybrid Cannondale H400 non eBikes, it was really fun being caught in a heavy downpour and a high winds storm. My only problem was being able to see and glasses didn’t help, I was near blinded. For a while I carried goggles when riding in summer with a police motorcycle type helmet and with me in rain possible rides, in winter, where they help, even though I ride with this Aviators Helmet with a clear and tinted visor. I do believe that a ziplock baggie over the LCD will protect it in downpours and placing it in a ziplock bag full of uncooked rice, after an anomaly like encountered in this thread, can help dry it, if it has experienced water incursion. There are pictures of motors on this forum, completely full of rust and destroyed. Never leave an ebike stored outside and if you live in a area with drastic humidity and temperatures changes and store your bike in an unheated building or garage, a box fan, to circulate air inside that enclosed space, will help keep condensations from forming, outside and inside your bike. In newer Sondors Models, with internal cable routing, the product, "Corrosion X" can be used to stave-off rust and corrosion on any metals, even inside your bikes frame. I have no idea about it’s reaction on electrical components so I wouldn’t use it on any of those. I just try and avoid riding in the rain. REDDY
    1 point
  18. Glad you're "On The Road Again". https://youtu.be/M6Ggp3TJjuE I carry a inexpensive plastic drop cloth in a pannier, just in case I get caught in a storm and I try to avoid rain because even riding on wet roads it takes 2 hours to clean my bikes. https://www.electricbike.com/water-proofing-trouble-shooting/ ‘Happy Trails’ REDDY
    1 point
  19. I just initiated an insurance policy from Velosurance that includes optional roadside assistance. 😉
    1 point
  20. It’s a process of elimination and although the LCD might seem to work, we need to eliminate it as a cause. It is the most vulnerable component exposed to heavy rain. If you get no voltage registering on a multimeter (you can find videos on you tube about using one) that might confirm a bad controller. REDDY
    1 point
  21. Since Heavy Rain was mentioned and your sure that it’s not any higo connector, that has moisture inside, try replacing the shunt, green cap, on the cable to the display and see if power is restored. The display and its control buttons are somewhat water resistant but not water proof. If power is not restored you’ll have to try tracing power from the controller to the motor with a multimeter. You will need to unplug the large HiGo connector under the right chainstay and, while depressing the throttle, see if you can measure any voltage from any of to pins of the three inside that connector. REDDY
    1 point
  22. It could be the controller. @Reddy Kilowatt can probably provide you some additional troubleshooting procedures.
    1 point
  23. There are wires that run from the brakes down to the controller in the battery box. These are for the cut off switches to interrupt the motor when you pull the brake levers. Follow the wires to the HIGO connector and unplug it to test if it's the brake switch that's causing the issue.
    1 point
  24. First thought is it could be of the brake cut out switches. You should be able to unplug them, preferably one at a time, to test.
    1 point
  25. STEP ONE: Connecting the charger to battery to power supply Ensure battery is powered “OFF” – check the battery’s rocker power switch to verify it is in the “OFF” position Check to make sure the charger is not plugged into the surge protector (interrupter) strip First, plug the charger into the battery Second, plug the charger into surge protector strip Third, plug the surge protector strip to the household power outlet STEP TWO: LED Indicator The single LED on the charger will be green momentarily indicating power has been connected The LED will change from green to red indicating charging is in progress The LED will change from red back to green to indicate the charging cycle is completed STEP THREE: Charging is complete First, unplug the surge protector from the household power supply Second, unplug the charger from the surge protector strip Third, unplug the charger from the battery REDDY KILOWATT FORUM MODERATOR
    1 point
  26. The last time I looked at shipping from China to Long Beach the transit time was around 20 days. If you add in 3-5 days for customs, theoretically the bike could hit the boat on August first and still make it to the door (depending on where you live in the USA) before the end of August. More likely to get it by August, it'd need to ship sometime in July. I don't think ships are the issue. China has been rather aggressive with its response to another minor covid outbreak. Contact between port employees and sailors has been banned and port employees are required to live in 216 (hastily erected) prefabricated buildings at the docks instead of going home to their families every day. I don't know if Sondors is factoring in the current delays at the Yantian container port to their delivery times. You might need to be a little forgiving if it runs a bit past August.
    1 point
  27. I have a 67.2V, BMW module for my Electric White Lightning and this 67.2V advanced charger. Go to Electrobikeworld, that has 60V -80v, KT - LCD3s and 60V-80v, KT Controllers, Plug & Play. Ask them about those controllers you mentioned. Not seen a single post about those high end controllers you’ve mentioned here, on the forum. Best try the forum on, electricbike.com ,because I’ve read more than one upgrades post, beyond KT products on 750Watt 8Fun Bafangs on that forum. I’m not happy about the weight of the Module, in it’s bombproof case or being this high above my CG. I’ll probably move it under the rack, even though I’ll have to move the rack up some, also. I did that on my Electric White Lightning, to fit it’s, 2nd 52V pack underneath. One in the triangle box also. The hardest part of mounting them underneath is widening the rack. I also added that light basswood platform which helps strength the rack. It also has 2 sets of seat stay brackets. One pr, that connects to the seatstay on that side of the rack and another pr that mounts to the opposite seatstay and I fabricated thick aluminum doublers for the cats liver, uh, I mean, cantilever brackets that Mount to the dropouts. REDDY
    1 point
  28. I’ve not been on a vacation in many years. Several years ago, I used to go on weekenders (but never scheduled) just riding the scooter. Get up on Saturday, load up on the scooter, pick a random direction, and head out. Might be back in a few hours or a couple of days. That was when I had a riding partner (Sandy) who kept me active: Picture taken in Deal's Gap NC on the "Tail of the Dragon".
    1 point
  29. It’s the physical sized permanent magnets that comprise the main difference between the Bafang 8 Fun motors. The higher watt rated motors have larger permanent magnets. My single speed, Electric White Lightning, with the 350 watt Bafang, 25 amp controller & 58T chairing, has a top speed of 32mph on a fresh charge. My 7 speed Electric Black Lightning, with its 750 Watt Bafang, 35 amp controller & 56T chainring, has a top speed of 33 mph on a fresh charge … but it accelerates, almost twice as hard & fast. It’s also 20 pounds heavier than the White. ‘Both use 52V, triangle battery packs. Both motors are limited by the same controller limiting rpm. Total milage between the two is over 20,000 miles at which point I stopped recording mileage. Not Sondors specific but this illuminates the Labeling & Permeant Magnet size comparison. There is a discussion on the forum on how Rad eBikes fraudulently represent the Rad Rovers motor wattage. https://youtu.be/7K87AIiXFpY REDDY
    1 point
  30. Nice Pic Rodney..Where's this at?
    1 point
  31. Just heard from Sondors concerning my LX order. There is such a demand and a long backlog for Tektro hydraulic disc brakes my bike delivery is extended into July. It has been quite a wait but I still look forward to delivery. Getting an update helps ease the anticipation.
    1 point
  32. Just got my cruiser delivered yesterday! Built it last night and had a quick cruise around the block. I, like reddy kilowatt above, was one of the first campaign supporters and remember that oh so well! One guy on the campaign stirring up fears that Storm was a fraud! The boxes on that semi trailer are empty etc. Glad to say how wonderful this company has become. Haven’t had any issues with my original and this was my follow up. Love the new mid-drive nice torque, assembly was quick and everything was packaged great. Very well wrapped!
    1 point
  33. The Flashing Red Indication is the same type of notification as the idiot lights on the dash of an automobile. It’s there as a warning that your battery is getting low. The Sondors Factory set the perimeters. As has been relayed here many times since 2015, because the battery level bar indicators on the various different displays are just a graphical representation based on an algorithm and not an exact indication of the battery’s actual voltage, we advise always use the actual battery voltage to judge reserve. Your controller will cut off voltage delivery, when the voltage drops to around 40.6V. At 39V the battery pack is considered unrecoverable. Setting the distance traveled between when bars change (idiot flashing begins) on your display is equivalent to the rate of discharge (more rapid at lower voltages, possibly twice as fast). What you are trying to accomplish might not be possible, if you’ve adjusted voltage settings for the 1 & 2 bar entries and exhausted possibilities. Since neither of my Sondors use that display and I can’t personally edit to program that LCD, I can’t be more specific besides relay that even the KT-LCD3’s bar display is wholly inaccurate. I can relay that pedaling a hundred pound ebike several miles after battery cut out was reached, to get home, is a hell of a strategy to build leg strength. The factory setting on your display was set by the engineers at the Sondors’ factory, as the best option. REDDY
    1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. Well, You Know What Reddy Always Says: What one man can do… Another man can do! So Can A Woman. REDDY
    1 point
  36. Just received my Fold XS bike a few days ago. Charged my battery and tried to power the LCD screen and it would not light up. Read the instructions and did everything correctly. I checked all plugs from the power to the LCD screen and all other plugs and everything was on tight. I know battery is fully charged because when I disconnected my LCD Screen from the Power source I installed the small pig tail that is connected to the power source for the LCD screen-came with the bike and the pedal assist as well as the throttle powers the motor. Scratching my head on this and wondering if anyone has heard of a bad Color LCD screen? I even opened up the area where the controller is located and all those plugs are connected tightly. Has anyone else experience this? I did hold the power button for more than 2 seconds and nothing happens. I went through all connections over and over. Unplugging and plugging it back and aligning up the arrows and heard a small click. So I know these are all good. My next step is to call Tech Support tomorrow. Maybe someone has another possible solution I can check out? Thanking you all in advance
    1 point
  37. Hi all. Owned my sondors x almost a month now. Got it July shipment. Can’t get enough of it. But got a question about riding/using my bike. I find myself just leaving it in 7 th gear and just using the 5 pedal assist and throttle to give me a little start. Had me thinking, did I even need 7 gears or am I not entirely riding it correctly? Any help anybody? Thanks.
    1 point
  38. Hey where can I find the default for the 36v
    1 point
  39. Craig, please take a picture of your display and the label on the box. The passwords I gave you are the only ones I am aware of. did you add a lock password on this display? 1665 should work with the upgrade displays.
    1 point
  40. I’ll have to add some more comments to this issue. Welding works with thermoplastics, in my situation the plastic itself is the problem, it’s definitely too brittle. I did some further tests and I managed to break the clamp again and again ☹️ - not at the welded position, but always a little bit in front of that. So, that’s no reliable way ... The problem is: Thermoplastics are quite impossible glue reliable and durable (with adhesive) - especially if there is a constant tension (as it would be) Therefore I developed a solution using something like a “prosthesis” - so it’s a mechanical fix instead of a „chemical one“. I took the part of a clamp which usually fixes a bicycle bell on the handlebar (just look at the photo above), placed it inside the broken clamp and drilled three holes (4 mm diameter) into both pieces. Both parts were connect with three flat head screws (inside) and threaded nuts (from the outside). I took screws made of brass to avoid rust. Finally I’ll use a cold-welding tape to wrap the attached “prosthesis”, the threaded nuts and the screws (to avoid scratches on handlebar) or I’ll only cover the screw heads inside with some other tape. Finished: I used a heat shrink tube to cover the screws and the threaded nuts. Much easier ...
    1 point
  41. I had the same problem, no pedal assist function, throttle works well. The magnet disk was too far away from the sensor, as seen on the first picture. The second picture shows the correct distance.
    1 point
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