Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hi sorry I missed this. You want the NO (Normally Open). AKA "Closer" version. In German: "Schliesser"
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    Would you believe this bike has two batteries? L3 52V 20ah and LT48 48V 14ah
  4. 1 point
    I just rolled 770 miles on my X, since it arrived in early January. My SONDORS X has been a very reliable Fat Tire Bike and an outstanding eBike. I finished putting on a set of Origin8 Supercells 26 X 4.0 Diamond Pattern Road/Smooth Tires. I took them for a 10 mile ride on July 9th. I am a hard surface rider and the Fort Myers area is improving and adding Bike/Walk paths all the time. Several reasons for the Tire Change, the center lugs on the rear tire were going away, I wanted a more quite ride, and I wanted to start increasing my distance and speed. The Supercells 26 X 4.0 did a great job on all counts. I will change back to the Original Knobby set when it's time to hit the Beach. The tire change lowered the bike 1/2", at the axles and decreased the Tire Width by 1/4", but the silence on the hard surfaces is worth it.
  5. 1 point
    It's important to secure your Sondors THIN or Fat eBike, here are some Locks recommendations: Please note: Cable Locks are considered as unsafe, we already have stolen Sondors eBikes which were secured with a cable lock! The Club UTL800 Utility Lock The Club UTL800 Utility Lock is a part of The Club line of quality products by Winner International. Many Sondors Owners are using this particular Lock and recommend it. Buy now: on Amazon.com on ebay.com Abus Bordo BIG 6000 (Foldable Lock) The Bordo Folding locks feature a linked construction to provide maximum flexibility to secure to racks, fence posts, signs, etc. Compact design offers many frame mounting possibilities. Coating to prevent damage of the bicycle's paint - ABUS Premium cylinder for maximum picking protection. Buy now: on Amazon.com on ebay.com Kryptonite 999492 Black 14mm x 60" (1415) Extreme motorcycle and scooter security for the highest theft locations. 12mm six sided chain links made of 3t hardened manganese steel for maximum strength. Durable protective nylon cover with hook and loop fasteners to hold in place. Buy now: on Amazon.com Do you recommend or know another lock? Tell us!
  6. 1 point
    The 2018 European Thin weighs about 50 pounds (23 kg). The suspension fork alone weighs about 5.5 pounds (2.5 kg).
  7. 1 point
    Hey guys 1665 to access advanced setting to unlock full power !
  8. 1 point
    I contacted the company in China that makes the LCD. He told me that their customers (Sondors for example) decides which features they want. So since they didn’t want the clock it can’t be enabled. Seems silly for any bike computer to not have a clock but maybe it’s cheaper that way.
  9. 1 point
    Great, I luv combining commuting options. We don’t have ferries here but I do take my Electric Black Lightning on the commuter train into the city.
  10. 1 point
    By the way, at $120.79 this is currently the best online price on MT5e's from this vendor, 365 Cycles: https://ebay.us/IB6q2H I have bought - I think - three sets of these to date *from this vendor* for various bikes I have built (add a couple more sets from bike-discount.de and the German bike shop guy... Karl Vom Kanal, if I remember coorectly. So I have a bunch of them and essentially have standardized on one brakeset and one rotor size (205mm) so I only have to stock one set of spare parts across what is now a small fleet. Interestingly, that first set on my Sondors sprung a leak on the front caliper. So I backtracked my purchase date and found a) I was within Magura's warranty and b) 365 Cycles was a certified Magura dealer. So warranty claims honored. I contacted them, they contacted Magura, I documented the problem to Magura's satisfaction and Magura sent me a replacement caliper, set of pads and even a rotor. I did point out that a) the pads while contaminated were worn out anyway and b) the rotor was just below its 1.80 mm wear point, so Magura need just replace the caliper. They very nicely sent me the works anyway. FYI I did go to a fair bit of trouble to try and save the pads via the 90%+ alcohol and blowtorch method, and also worked hard to clean the rotor - all during the diagnosis phase of the problem. My conclusion... don't waste your time. Just buy new pads and spend the time you saved out riding. Speaking of pads, Magura Type 8.P pads - the best for the MT5e - are quite pricey from USA sellers. But Rose Bikes in Germany has them quite cheap. As I mentioned, I have a small fleet of ebikes now and one set of common brake parts. So I stocked up on 4 sets of pads for about $17.50 a set. https://www.rosebikes.co.uk/magura-8p-performance-disc-pads-for-mt5mt7-2652120 thats the place to go for pads.
  11. 1 point
    I should have added that my friends had found homes all over the frigg’n place. First to some acerage in Lovettsville, VA, close to Harper’s Ferry. Then near Winchester VA @ Holiday Lake. Are you old enough to remember Perfect Circle Piston Rings? They bought the Original Owners Mansion in Hagerstown Indiana. The Dana Corp bought out Perfect Circle. They sold the house to a group of investors who made it into a Bed & Breakfast. Next they Bought a home on the Front Range of the Rockies, just North of the Airforce Academy @ Perry Park Ranch @ Larkspur Colorado. A lot less land but a hell of a view. Thru all these moves, Tad my friend’s office, is in Oakland and he’d commute, for a couple of days every week or two to meet with his staff, but work mostly out of his home office. You couldn’t carry the airline miles he accumulated in a backpack! Nice Work If You Can Get It. REDDY
  12. 1 point
    There is a function in the LCD setup, that allows the bike to be powered at walking speed. I’ve never configured my bikes for that function so I don’t know exactly the operation but I’d suspect that’s how your controller is locked into powering your bike. There looks to be slight rake on the Thin’s Fork. Try comparing this side view to your bike. If your fork is bent at the steering tube, you have a couple of options. Let’s deal with those when/if you determine if yours is damaged. But just for reference https://sondors.com/collections/parts-store/products/thin-suspension-fork We have a Marketplace Section here on our forum. https://sondorsforum.com/forum/12-sondors-ebikes-parts-marketplace/ I’d suggest selling or looking for items both here and on the Sondors Storm FaceBook Page. (“Storm” was the original name of the first gen Fat bike). https://m.facebook.com/groups/StormOwnersGroup/ Yep, the Motor Cable Axel Exit is a vulnerable spot. Newer releases of bikes have come equiped with protection devices to protect them during shipping and after. If the motor/rear wheel has been properly reinstalled after removal, the cutout in the axel and rubber cap affords some protection, if it’s installed with the cutout facing rear, it can act as a guillotine and damage the cable in a fall. Those brackets are not sold on the Sondors.com website but you can ask Sondors Support for avalibility by messaging them from their website. https://sondors.com/pages/support REDDY
  13. 1 point
    Really not enough info to determine what is wrong with your Thin. The fact that it runs but only at 3 or 4 mph is very disturbing. It’s should run at at least 15mph with you pedaling. If all the Higo connectors are full seated and no pins damaged then start here: Does the motor/rear wheel turn freely without power, while on the kickstand, tilting the bike to one side so you can freewheel it by hand? Does the motor turn backward? Does the motor/rear wheel, run at speed in this configuration using throttle ? The two most likely failures are the controller or motor. If you are using throttle only when you ride, the throttle is also a possibility and you should also check the PAS Sensor/PickUp and Magnet Wheel on the right side or the crank behind the chain ring for correct spacing (almost touching the sensor throuout It’s rotation). I wouldn’t consider a Sondors replacment controller or LCD if you decide to try replacing the controller as the first step in trouble shooting your problem. I’d suggest buying the 25amp hot rod controller from Bolton.ebikes and any of Kyle’s LCDs ( a few monochrome or color to choose from. If you are still experiencing the problem, then a motor replacment would give you the Thin with the most power upgrades as you can go besides a more powerful battery. You can email Kyle for guidance on products he sells at Bolton. Tell him Reddy Kilowatt referred you. LEMMENO Reddy
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    There are different passwords for different models Reddy
  16. 1 point
    You will love it. The extra 250 watts pulls like and engine. Hydraulic brakes are very smooth. You get a smooth ride with the front air shocks and springer seat post. Enjoy!! admin password for second level parameters is 1515.
  17. 1 point
    I got mine in Texas on January 08th. I ordered mine during the first "100" drive.
  18. 1 point
    John, there are plenty of post on Fold modifications here on the forum. Just use the search function that is top right, in the header and search Fold. Don't forget to add pictures of your adventures to the “Gallery”. Pictures in the open forum kinda get lost unless they’re in the album dedicated to them. Ride On ! Happy Holidays REDDY
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Mel, the 7 speed cassette Sondors X model comes with a different, slightly wider motor. The conversion, requires that a different motor and associated shifter hardware, while spreading the rear triangle a mere 5mm. Both models of the 2018 Fat were avalable at the same time, not early or late 18. The 7 speed motor has a longer threaded and 5mm wider case to accommodate the larger Freewheel or Cassette, depending on motor model. Avalable from Aliexpress : https://eunorauebike.aliexpress.com/store/group/BAFANG/904105_257734884.html?spm=a2g1y.12024536.pcShopHead_6161773.1_3_1 i just purchased a new 750watt motor there for a new project for $173. Or, when in stock, you can buy the 750watt motor Domestic from : https://velomobileshop.com/collections/sondors-ebike-power-upgrades/products/bafang-fat-bike-hub-motor?variant=12249194725399 “175mm Dropout Hub Motor. Although slightly wider than the stock single speed Sondors bikes, this will drop into the existing case. Upgrade your motor without swapping the wheel! 750 watt motors USE A LARGER MOTOR PLUG! Larger controller with the appropriate plug required. Threaded for single or multi-speed freewheel.“ Or: https://electrobikeworld.com/products/48v-750w-bafang-geared-rear-hub-motor If you want to see what the process entails, most of the process, less the 750WATT upgrade parts, higher output battery, aftermarket controller and LCD. (you’ll need a new 350Watt, or better, 500 Watt longer cassette/freewheel mount motor, since you’ve already upgraded to a 25amp controller, for the upgrade less the 750watt & required 35amp controller. https://sondorsforum.com/topic/880-upgrade-750w-bafang-with-7-speed-upgrade/ I suspect you’ve already reviewed the 3 speed thread. Most of the early posts in that thread are bogus, conjecture or just guessing so start your planning with Scott Kennedy’s post here and beyond. https://sondorsforum.com/topic/20-3-speed-conversion/?do=findComment&comment=899 Reddy
  21. 1 point
    I’d suspect one or more of the motor magnets have been dislodged and caused internal damage within the motor. The fact that the throttle sends current to the controller, then the motor, that’s evident as it registers on the LCD, and the fact that there is some amiss inside the motor because it won’t turn backwards is a pretty good indication that the problem is in the motor case. Just make sure that the chain is not too tight, causing the freewheel to bind and cause the motor not to turn backwards. Also you can make sure the controller to motor cable’s Higo connector, under the right chainstay, is properly seated, and that all th pins inside are not bent. It cannot be twisted or it will be damaged beyond repair. Reddy
  22. 1 point
    Both bikes have a 750w big magnet Bafang. The fatty's 750 is inside the stock 350 motor housing. Fatty has a 48v 30ah battery driving a 35 amp big momma 18 fet controller. The Fold started life as a Foldx7. I replaced the stock 20 x 80mm rims with more sporting 24" x 65mm rims laced to a 750 Lindsey motor, which slightly increases overall gearing over a stock Fold. That still leaves the overall gearing a lot less than the fatty so it's able to make due nicely with just a 25 amp controller, Both bike's lighting is powered off of the main battery.
  23. 1 point
    Hi Guys and Gals, I would like to introduce myself as the owner of eBikeSkins.com, my name is Miguel and I want to invite you to check out my website and if you see something you like for your Sondors fat ebike take 20% off your first order with code SONDORSFORUM20 and all future orders after that SONDORSFORUM10 or 10% off. All the skins are printed on 3M vehicle grade vinyl with air release for easy installation and they are all laminated to protect the print and skin for a long time. We have an installation video in the FAQs section of the website that shows how easy and quick installation is. We also offer custom skins, if you have a picture of your dog, kids or even yourself we can do it too! Please don't hesitate to contact me with any questions on the website Contact Us Page.
  24. 1 point
    Probably. I have hit 35mph on this road before. One of these days, I may have to do this on a race track where o can do it in both directions.
  25. 1 point
    Josh Wardell on this forum probably has a pin out for the light Higo. Reddy
  26. 1 point
    RC Electronics, Inc.Watt's Up WU100 DC Watt meter and Power Analyzer (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B6N2WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GfvPBbPMBAHHE
  27. 1 point
    Well, two things. If that battery is wider than 2.75”, it doesn’t match Luna’s drawing. It’s not as represented and doesn’t fit and it’s their fault. Of course, there’s not much you can do besides a court case to try and force them to accept responsibility, if they won’t. They are masters at denying responsibility. I know, I’ve had problems with the Rack Battery I bought from them in 2015. Other small items that were not as represented also. The barrel charging dongle they supplied with this battery was the wrong diameter, fit but was loose and could caused intermittent contact. That situation fried the BMS. They stated that their batteries didn’t come with any warranty and since that rack battery was no longer manufactured .... there was nothing they could do. I can’t figure out how EBW can produce a 48v Battery Pack that is 2.5” since 18650 flat top cells are 2.559” without the metal lattice on both sides, plus heat shrink. My EBW L3 52v measures 2.75. I certainly wouldn't remove any of the wrap. Make sure the edges of the pack are not contacting the inside radius of the Sondors battery box which would further limit width. You could always still keep your EBW 48v in the Sondors box (or not) and carry the Luna in a side pannier. I know that’s not the design element you desired for your bike but it’s what I do when camping or when I travel to a friends house on the other side of the MetroStool. I can’t imagine riding without panniers but that’s just a personal choice and I carry a lot of stuff, besides everything, EVERYTHING I grocery shop. I even have this larger volume set for bigger loads ( I could deliver pizzas in the top trunk of this one ?) That was when it was pretty Stock. Before building, better double wall rimmed wheels without holes and 12g Sapim spokes, 750Watt, 7 Speed Bafang .... and well everything else on the Original. The only Sondors parts left are the frame, battery box and bottom bracket. Oh, just remembered a third option. I’m building another Fat eBike based on my Dolomite. Although I have a Luna battery bag it doesn’t fit the frame triangle exactly and instead of Scrubbing Off or Painting Over the Luna Logo and modifying the Velcro straps, I plan on building a battery box. It’s really a pretty simple project and I love this kinda stuff, and since width is your issue you could make it as wide as you’d like. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zOe2cjbgP3c Reddy
  28. 1 point
    @Chad Lauterbach, I just measured both my EBW L3 52v 20.3ah battery and my Luna 52v 17ah long range / high power battery and they both measure zackly 2.75” width. And I reviewed the drawing of the Luna 52v 14ah long range / high power and it shows 2.75”. You did say 2.75” would fit, right? I can only guess that if your 52v 14ah is wider, that there are stiffeners on the sides of your pack that make it wider than what’s published or the stencil between cells to improve sturdiness adds width to the pack. They may have changed their building methodology. Uses composite stencils in between the cells to make the pack more rigid and more reliable. Although scrutinizing their drawing shows a 3” pack width on the top right image.... while 2.75”is specified elsewhere. Not sure what’s going on with their drafting. The 18650 individual cells measure 2.559” in length (width of the pack) and the metal lattice, should only measure 1mm (.04”) per side or so. I do remember reading somewhere, not sure it was on Luna ,that “Now using thicker pack rap” or some such statement but a few extra layers of Heat Shrink, shouldn’t be responsible for the difference in your packs Reddy 9B9F8A57-43BC-4A67-AD1A-34BC26B4C534.jp2
  29. 1 point
    My point was to use the LCD8H manual to clarify the LCD3 if confusion exists. the two are similar enough that you can gain insight via the improved English translation. Sondors owners are doing direct-swap upgrades to the 8H now so they are interchangeable without a change in controller.
  30. 1 point
    I recently picked up the Topeak rack, trunk bag, and fenders. The installation was really easy and the fit seems to be great on the Thin. I'm not sure how the first would be on the fat bikes, but my guess is at least the fenders wouldn't fit. Here's the parts I bought: Topeak Explorer Bicycle Rack with Disc Brake Mounts: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIAVHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Topeak MTX Trunk Bag DX: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0187ZRLX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Topeak Defender Tx Front & Rear Set: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSZLR7F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 A couple install tips: I had to remove the velcro strap on the rear fender as it seemed to stretch the fender too much, but it still seems really solid. It's easier to put the fenders on first in my opinion, on the back, make sure you use the holes closest to the rear for the fenders as the others are for the rack. I found I needed to use the very last hole on the rear fender for the L bracket and the last of the three locations for the bolts on the rack. Here's some pics of my bike post install.
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    @johnc@ those are crank arm lengths. Measures from the Bottom Bracket Spindle centerline to the pedal spindle center. Reddy
  33. 1 point
    Yes, it will not mount on the bracket. So I just wedged a piece of a plastic ice tray in to keep it from moving. It is working fine. I am sure that their are better ways to secure it, but the tray worked for me. Lindsey used a rag and that worked for her.
  34. 1 point
    I have a new Sonders and the bike powers up and the motor works fine, but after about 30 seconds to a minute an Error 30 message appears and the bike eventually shuts off. I should add that I'm not getting a speed reading either. Disconnecting the motor does not help and the code still appears a short time after being powered up. Has anyone seen this code and could help me locate the problem/ All other connections seem to be tight but maybe I'm missing one. B.T.W. the battery is the 36V/8.7ah. Thanks!
  35. 1 point
    The Sondors one that is not the Fold. You use the same version of those for Thin and Original. The issue is the cable length. And while you are at it, unless you want to cut and resection the cables, and bleed them, you will not be able to put these cables into the cable guides on the frame. Here is a $4 fix for that. I bought a set from this seller just a couple weeks ago for a project I am working on. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MTB-Bike-Hydraulic-Disc-Brakes-Cable-Housing-Conversion-Frame-Over-Line-ClampTrap-Adapter-Clip-for-Oil/32790819895.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.40694c4dfl3JfT
  36. 1 point
    Thanks for the tip on the brakes! Really appreciate that. Sounds like the hydro option would best for me as the problem I'm having is the constant adjustment. Reasonable price too. Much appreciated!
  37. 1 point
    Hello all! OMG I can't believe it's already end of July, so I thought it is time for yet another life sign... @MattRobertson Thanks for your April post. And yes, I assume that I'll not be able to separate the spacer from the free wheel, shall I ever take it apart again. @Marco Well, I know it sound unbelievable, but I still have to finish Phase 2! I'll explain why. However, Phase 3 is planned: I want to install a set of Magura MT5e hydraulic brakes. To make a long story short: Yes, I'm still self-employed and I've been away overseas for over half a year for a HUGE project. I had internet access of course, but it somehow made no sense to spam the forum here with trivia. Anayway, I'm home again, and it is waaaaay to hot to think straight right now. I hate that hot weather! As soon as it gets a bit colder, I plan to continue to work on my bike. I missed you all, guys!
  38. 1 point
    Member Josh found loose cradle terminals in the cradle base on his Fat. Poor Battery to Cradle connections can lead to arching and high current drain and can melt the plastic around the cradle pins. Reddy
  39. 1 point
    The 25A controller works great! I have over 125 miles since the upgrade and not a problem. It is a little faster, a lot quicker, more towing power , and more torque on the hills where I live. I bought the Controller from Lindsey at www.Electrobike.com. She will set you up with everything that you need!
  40. 1 point
    For 2018’s midyear thank you and message to our amazing community, we’d like to take a moment to reflect on how far we’ve come and how fast we’re moving. Storm is excited, and he's feeling the sting... Save the Bees, Ride a SONDORS. Get your SONDORS —> sondors.com
  41. 1 point
    That's perfect for the Sondors Fold X and it costs almost nothing. https://www.ebay.at/itm/Verschlussstopfen-Gummi-weich-PVC-Gummistopfen-Blindstopfen-Karosseriestopfen/171980183296?hash=item280ad15700:m:mEoiKC6d4sj75du61mi9XKA The 32,0 mm (3,1 mm) is the right one.
  42. 1 point
    These are by far my favorite replacment pads because they are soft, offer superior stopping power, wet or dry (you can lock up both wheels they grab so good, especially if you’ve upgraded disc to 203mm front and 180mm rear) and they’re cheap enough to buy a pannier full of them for the price of some other single set pad offerings... because they are soft they do wear faster (though I’ve never worn a set out) but at every brake adjustment, I just replacment them, with a new set and it returns the brake adjustments back to where they were, usually only needing the inner back plate adjustment and maybe barrel adjustments....For me, cable stretch is no longer a regular issue requiring adjustments, until I replace the cables again. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pair-Bike-Bicycle-Disc-Brake-Resin-Pads-Fr-Shimano-M375-M395-M446-M515-TEKTRO-g-/192263551504?hash=item2cc3ccfa10 Reddy
  43. 1 point
    Hello from Canada Did my first time winter riding on snow and it was awsome ! See picture on my profile. Michel
  44. 1 point
    Below are pics of accessories I've added to my Fold X. Was striving for a "clean", urban look. I replaced the knobby tires with street tires. For my carrier, I left off the side pannier braces. Below the pictures you'll find some after thoughts and lessons learned. And further down, you’ll find descriptions, links and prices for each product. FENDERS For the fenders, I debated getting the Luna Cycle Banana Fenders as well as the Electra Cruiser Stubby Fender Set. They're very cool looking as I love that black matte finish on both. The Electra set are only designed for Tires with a width of 2.12" and I prefer shorter fenders anyway. Note my RadRover rear fender attaches to the seat post. The amount of clearance is adjustable in two places other than the seat post. LIGHTS I get lots of comments on the bike. Many comments stem from the vintage front headlight. With that said, this Goodkssop headlight has more fashion than functional value. At 180 lumens, it'll warn on comers that you’re there. But you shouldn’t expect it to light your way in dark surroundings. BIKE RACK & TRUNK The positioning of the Yahill rack is adjustable and allows the trunk to rest comfortably on top. The M-Wave lockable trunk is convenient for times you can’t take all your belongings with you. For gym rats, it's big enough to hold a gym shirt, shorts and a pair of men's size 12/13 shoes. For the trunk you'll need a rack that's flat at least at one end....ones like the Ibera PakRaks won't work since they are bend at the front and rear. My biggest challenge was finding a way to secure the two because the trunk doesn’t offer an immediately obvious way to mount it on the rack. So you’ll have to cleverly devise your own way...industrial velcro, zip ties or other hardware. Should you decide to go with a storage solution like mine, consider using drilling a few holes in the underside and using small u-bolts to secure the trunk to the rack. I added half-inch of adhesive foam to bottom of the trunk to soften noise of objects bouncing around. SEATPOST Of all the accessories, the CaneCreek Thudbuster is definitely my favorite. Fat tires help smooth out minor road imperfections. However, there are times when I appreciate the extra cushion. Realize the Thudbuster will add about 4 to 5 inches to the overall height of your seat. And I’m already losing about three inches from the bike carrier and rear fender which both attach to the seat post. I’m 5’ 9” or 175 cm and it’s a slight stretch to mount the Fold. REFLECTIVE DECALS I’m all about making myself visible to other motorists. That’s mainly why I chose the red model. But I also like to make sure I’m seen, particularly at night. So I added red reflective tape to the rims for more side visibility. I affixed black decals for more rear visibility should my tail light give out. Virtually invisible by day the decals light up brilliantly at night when car lights approach. If you look closely at the trunk see if you can find the two triangles and the four lines. TIRES Although the pictures might suggest I live in a rustic environment, I live in an urban setting. So I replaced the knobby off-road tires with more "street" looking Kenda tires. The Kenda tires don't have much of a groove down the middle of the tire. So it would seem rather easy to lose traction… hasn't been much of a problem yet. I bought the tires on eBay and am not sure they're still available. However, if I were to do it over again, I'd get the Duro tires that have a similar look. In case someone might be looking for knobby replacements, I've added the Copertone and Mongoose tires. Goodkssop 180 Vintage Headlight ($14) Okiano USB Rechargeable Bike Light Set ($23) RadRover Standard Front & Rear Fenders ($59) Cane Creek 3G Thudbuster Long Travel 30.9 Seatpost ($149) Yahill Adjustable Quick Release Bike Rack ($39) M-Wave Lockable Hard Shell Bike Trunk ($51) Seattle Sports 1/2" Foam Trunk Insert - 20” x 15” ($18) CustomTAYLOR33 Reflective Rim Tape ($34) LiteMark Reflective Decal Variety Pack ($11) Kenda 20” x 4.25” Ringworm Tires ($31) Duro 20” x 4.25” Super Fatt Tires ($29)* Copertone BICI 20" x 4.0 Sandstorm ($28)* Mongoose 20" x 4.0 MG78456-2 Fat Tire ($24)* *I have the Kenda Ringworm tires. Products with asterisks represent other replacement tires. Also note the Copertone and Mongoose tires are 4.0” wide. I've been told they’ll fit on the Fold just fine. But you might want to double-check before buying.
  45. 1 point
    Here are some more pics of the inside. This is a 36V 14ah battery pack for reference. I assume, based on the label, that the red cells are panasonic batteries. The blue cells are not batteries, but just standoffs to support the internal pack frame.
  46. 1 point
    You usually can feel a bad BB when you rotate the crank by hand and if it's a loose crank arm, that usually only occurs under load. Might try backing off the BB retainer if it's the BB and see if that helps. I haven't had to correct either crank arm or seat post creak in decades but I'll check and ask at Bike Shop Ben's what lite coating they use to install square taper crank sets. I'm riding there today in my regular round robin route. Reddy
  47. 1 point
    No, the 203mm rotors fit without any modifications whatsoever. It's a damn tight fit when it comes to clearing the fork and the kickstand, but both rotors fit with about .100" clearance which is plenty. I've put plenty of miles on the bike since the conversion and have not had any issues with the rotors gouging the fork or frame. Bike has been running great the last two months. The mechanical brakes are more than adequate so I doubt I'll be upgrading to hydraulic. The bike is just not as fast as I was led to believe it would be following the 3-speed conversion, so I don't see myself investing much more money into it, even when it comes to motor, controller, batteries, etc. If anything, I actually see myself converting the bike back to a single speed. I currently only use the tall gear all the time to get around. Was having some derailleur adjustment issues and the chain was jumping off the tall gear and jamming itself between the gear and the frame. Left it in the tall gear with the intention of adjusting the derailleur later, when I noticed I never felt like I needed to switch into my lower two gears. I've gotten used to the feel of the heavy gear, so I'll probably be switching to a single speed freewheel, shortening the chain and ditching the shifter/derailleur. Another thought that's been bouncing around my head: I love my Sondors. It gets me places quickly and with minimal exertion. But it's damn heavy, and I don't feel comfortable leaving it unattended for more than even a minute or two. So there's a lot of places I can't go to with my Sondors and opt to walk instead. So I'm thinking about buying a dirty, cheap, used bicycle. Maybe a 20" BMX or a fixie. Something that costs no more than $50-$75, is covered with stickers, superficial rust, etc. that I can use as a backup transportation to the Sondors. The BMX would be nice to take onto the subway since it will be small and light. Probably leaning toward that style of bike.
  48. 1 point
    Got my Dremel tool in and I've been cutting my rear lines to length. Didn't realize until I was setting up by shifter cable that using the left side shifter for the rear derailleur means it will work in reverse; pulling the shifter cable (moving it toward the "+" direction) will actually pull the chain onto the larger cog, which means it will actually be downshifting. In its neutral state it springs outward, toward the smallest (highest) gear. Crunching some gear ratios real quick: Stock ratio = 40:16 = 2.5 Using my 56T chainring and my 16-19-22 freewheel I get the following ratios: 56:22 = 2.55 56:19 = 2.95 56:16 = 3.50 So my lowest gear is comparable to the stock ratio, with two higher gears for higher speeds. Exactly what I was hoping for. Cut a slot into one of my stripped front rotor bolts, and the damn thing still won't budge. Going to take it to a shop and have them professionally removed. I'm done fighting with them. No word yet on my suspension fork.
  49. 1 point
    Okay, just finished my Aluminum Frame Sondors 3-speed conversion using the following parts list... 1 - Shimano Tourney FT35 6/7-Speed Rear Derailleur w/Hanger - $12.54 & FREE Shipping 1 - SRAM I-Motion 3 Shifter with Connector - $10.00 + $6.90 shipping (I got free shipping on my order) 1 - KMC Z410 Bicycle Chain (1-Speed, 1/2 x 1/8-Inch, 112L) - $8.68 PRIME 1 - uxcell® Bicycle Metal 3 Speed Threaded Scooter Sprocket Freewheel Repair Part - $12.14 & FREE Shipping 2 - 12 mm washers I had at home 8 - (5 white/3 black) Zip ties I had at home Using the following tools, that I already had. Allen wrenches that came with the Sondors e-bike (for brake adjustment, handle bar grip, throttle, brake lever, and shifter) Hammer & Awl (for removing the freewheel cover and breaking the bike chain) (Or buy a chain breaker) 3/8 to 1/2 inch socket wrench socket (for breaking the bike chain) or you can use a piece of wood with a hole drilled into it. (Or buy a chain breaker) Pipe wrench (for removing the freewheel mount) 18mm wrench (for removing and installing the wheel) 10mm wrench (for removing and installing the chain tensioner on the rear wheel) Metal saw with fine blade (for cutting handle bar grip and shifter cable sheath) Diagonal pliers, snips, or dikes (for trimming the zip-ties) Phillips head screwdriver (for adjusting the derailleur) Total cost was under $45.00 in parts. Using the valuable instructions on this thread. (THANKS GUYS!!!), I did the following steps in under 2 hours... Put the Shifter on the right handle bar Using an allen wrench, loosen the two bolts in the metal brackets on the right handle bar grip. Then pull the right handle bar grip off the handle bars, clamp it in a vise, and using a fine tooth metal saw, saw about 2 inches off (8 columns of nubs) Using an allen wrench, loosen the mounts for the throttle and the brake lever and slide them BOTH off the handlebar Put the thottle back on, then the brake lever, then the shifter, then the rest of the right handle bar grip. Make sure the cable runs are okay, and then using an allen wrench tighten all of the mounting screws down. Replace the freewheel Put a towel/mat down to put the upside down bike on. (Don't mar the frame/handlebars/buttons) Unplug the motor plug that runs along the bottom of the rear frame. Take off both protective boots. Photograph BEFORE nut/washer/tensioner/frame/spacer/wheel pictures on both sides of the rear wheel. (It's a good habit, when doing projects) Using an allen wrench, release the tension of the rear brake wire. Using the 10mm wrench, release the chain tensioner bolt connector to the washer that runs to the back of the frame. Using the 18mm wrench, remove the axle nuts and washers and chain tensioner on both sides. Take another picture of the orientation of the inner notched washer on both sides. (Trust me it's easier this way) Un-hook the chain and let hang on the frame, using a towel or cloth to prevent the chain from messing up the frame. Remove the rear wheel and place carefully with cable side UP. Using a hammer and awl, remove the old bike chain. Using a hammer and awl, tap the retaining ring for the single speed freewheel CLOCKWISE. Once the retaining ring is loose, remove the ring by hand, and then lift up the freewheel, catching the loose ball bearings with a magnet. Remove all the other rings, teeth, and then using a pipe wrench and hammer, tap the freewheel mount COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to loosen. Once the freewheel mount is spinning, remove it by hand. Put the 3-speed freewheel on by hand, and hand tighten (no need to crank it down, peddling will do this) Put both the extra 12mm washers onto the axle next to the new 3-speed flywheel. Put on both notched washers the same way as you took the pictures before. Put the wheel back on the bike. Using your fingers, put on the non-chainside nut/washer/tensioner and leave loose. Mount the derailleur and adjust Put the derailleur onto the axle, adjusting the notched nut to be on the inside of the frame. Using the Phillips head screwdriver, tighten the screw holding the notched nut on the derailleur. Using your fingers, put on the nut/washer (LEAVE OFF THE TENSIONER!) on to the axle. Using the Phillips head screwdriver, adjust the H screw of the derailleur, so it sort of is in line with the smallest/outer gear. (we will fine tune later) Run the new bike chain through the derailleur, around the freewheel, and back over the crank, and clip in the master link. (or if you have a chain breaker use this to re attach the chain) Using the 18mm wrench and the 10mm wrench, tighten the bolts holding the wheel in place, and re-connect the rear brake. (You should be able to turn the crank and the wheel should turn. Now it's time to make the shifting work!) Take the shifter and using the 10mm wrench, un-do the nut on the cable end connector and remove the bracket. Pull about 16-18 inches of the inner cable wire through to the shifter handle section, take off the little black nub on the end of the cable sheath, and trim about 6 inches off the cable sheath with the metal saw. Put the black nub back on the end of the cable sheath and thread the inner cable wire back through the cable sheath. Run the shifter cable along the frame and down to the derailleur, don't zip tie it yet. Thread the wire end of the shifter cable through the derailleur cable mount, threading the holes and guides to the bracket. Make sure your shifter is turned to 1 (the lowest gear) Using the 10mm wrench, loosen the bracket nut, thread the shifter wire through the gap, making sure the shifter wire is tight and all the cable sheaths are mounted well, and then tighten the bracket nut. Turn the crank and shift through the gears, making sure that 1 is the small gear and 3 is the biggest gear. (If not then adjust in next step) Using the Phillips head screwdriver, adjust the derailleur so it doesn't jump the chain off the gears and shifts smoothly. Zip tie down the shifter cable against the frame and use the Diagonal pliers, snips, or dikes to cleanly trim the zip-ties. Take it for a test spin! Using the Phillips head screwdriver, more finely tune the derailleur. (if needed) You're done! Enjoy your new hill climbing ability! Scott PS> Other tweaks that I've done to my bike... InterLock hidden inside the seat post bicycle lock - $50.99 25 Amp controller upgrade - $59.98 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China) LCD Control panel - $48.98 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China) 20W LED headlight - $39.99 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China)

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.