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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/18/2016 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Okay, just finished my Aluminum Frame Sondors 3-speed conversion using the following parts list... 1 - Shimano Tourney FT35 6/7-Speed Rear Derailleur w/Hanger - $12.54 & FREE Shipping 1 - SRAM I-Motion 3 Shifter with Connector - $10.00 + $6.90 shipping (I got free shipping on my order) 1 - KMC Z410 Bicycle Chain (1-Speed, 1/2 x 1/8-Inch, 112L) - $8.68 PRIME 1 - uxcell® Bicycle Metal 3 Speed Threaded Scooter Sprocket Freewheel Repair Part - $12.14 & FREE Shipping 2 - 12 mm washers I had at home 8 - (5 white/3 black) Zip ties I had at home Using the following tools, that I already had. Allen wrenches that came with the Sondors e-bike (for brake adjustment, handle bar grip, throttle, brake lever, and shifter) Hammer & Awl (for removing the freewheel cover and breaking the bike chain) (Or buy a chain breaker) 3/8 to 1/2 inch socket wrench socket (for breaking the bike chain) or you can use a piece of wood with a hole drilled into it. (Or buy a chain breaker) Pipe wrench (for removing the freewheel mount) 18mm wrench (for removing and installing the wheel) 10mm wrench (for removing and installing the chain tensioner on the rear wheel) Metal saw with fine blade (for cutting handle bar grip and shifter cable sheath) Diagonal pliers, snips, or dikes (for trimming the zip-ties) Phillips head screwdriver (for adjusting the derailleur) Total cost was under $45.00 in parts. Using the valuable instructions on this thread. (THANKS GUYS!!!), I did the following steps in under 2 hours... Put the Shifter on the right handle bar Using an allen wrench, loosen the two bolts in the metal brackets on the right handle bar grip. Then pull the right handle bar grip off the handle bars, clamp it in a vise, and using a fine tooth metal saw, saw about 2 inches off (8 columns of nubs) Using an allen wrench, loosen the mounts for the throttle and the brake lever and slide them BOTH off the handlebar Put the thottle back on, then the brake lever, then the shifter, then the rest of the right handle bar grip. Make sure the cable runs are okay, and then using an allen wrench tighten all of the mounting screws down. Replace the freewheel Put a towel/mat down to put the upside down bike on. (Don't mar the frame/handlebars/buttons) Unplug the motor plug that runs along the bottom of the rear frame. Take off both protective boots. Photograph BEFORE nut/washer/tensioner/frame/spacer/wheel pictures on both sides of the rear wheel. (It's a good habit, when doing projects) Using an allen wrench, release the tension of the rear brake wire. Using the 10mm wrench, release the chain tensioner bolt connector to the washer that runs to the back of the frame. Using the 18mm wrench, remove the axle nuts and washers and chain tensioner on both sides. Take another picture of the orientation of the inner notched washer on both sides. (Trust me it's easier this way) Un-hook the chain and let hang on the frame, using a towel or cloth to prevent the chain from messing up the frame. Remove the rear wheel and place carefully with cable side UP. Using a hammer and awl, remove the old bike chain. Using a hammer and awl, tap the retaining ring for the single speed freewheel CLOCKWISE. Once the retaining ring is loose, remove the ring by hand, and then lift up the freewheel, catching the loose ball bearings with a magnet. Remove all the other rings, teeth, and then using a pipe wrench and hammer, tap the freewheel mount COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to loosen. Once the freewheel mount is spinning, remove it by hand. Put the 3-speed freewheel on by hand, and hand tighten (no need to crank it down, peddling will do this) Put both the extra 12mm washers onto the axle next to the new 3-speed flywheel. Put on both notched washers the same way as you took the pictures before. Put the wheel back on the bike. Using your fingers, put on the non-chainside nut/washer/tensioner and leave loose. Mount the derailleur and adjust Put the derailleur onto the axle, adjusting the notched nut to be on the inside of the frame. Using the Phillips head screwdriver, tighten the screw holding the notched nut on the derailleur. Using your fingers, put on the nut/washer (LEAVE OFF THE TENSIONER!) on to the axle. Using the Phillips head screwdriver, adjust the H screw of the derailleur, so it sort of is in line with the smallest/outer gear. (we will fine tune later) Run the new bike chain through the derailleur, around the freewheel, and back over the crank, and clip in the master link. (or if you have a chain breaker use this to re attach the chain) Using the 18mm wrench and the 10mm wrench, tighten the bolts holding the wheel in place, and re-connect the rear brake. (You should be able to turn the crank and the wheel should turn. Now it's time to make the shifting work!) Take the shifter and using the 10mm wrench, un-do the nut on the cable end connector and remove the bracket. Pull about 16-18 inches of the inner cable wire through to the shifter handle section, take off the little black nub on the end of the cable sheath, and trim about 6 inches off the cable sheath with the metal saw. Put the black nub back on the end of the cable sheath and thread the inner cable wire back through the cable sheath. Run the shifter cable along the frame and down to the derailleur, don't zip tie it yet. Thread the wire end of the shifter cable through the derailleur cable mount, threading the holes and guides to the bracket. Make sure your shifter is turned to 1 (the lowest gear) Using the 10mm wrench, loosen the bracket nut, thread the shifter wire through the gap, making sure the shifter wire is tight and all the cable sheaths are mounted well, and then tighten the bracket nut. Turn the crank and shift through the gears, making sure that 1 is the small gear and 3 is the biggest gear. (If not then adjust in next step) Using the Phillips head screwdriver, adjust the derailleur so it doesn't jump the chain off the gears and shifts smoothly. Zip tie down the shifter cable against the frame and use the Diagonal pliers, snips, or dikes to cleanly trim the zip-ties. Take it for a test spin! Using the Phillips head screwdriver, more finely tune the derailleur. (if needed) You're done! Enjoy your new hill climbing ability! Scott PS> Other tweaks that I've done to my bike... InterLock hidden inside the seat post bicycle lock - $50.99 25 Amp controller upgrade - $59.98 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China) LCD Control panel - $48.98 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China) 20W LED headlight - $39.99 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China)
  2. 7 points
    Sondors water bottle holders A few of Sondors owners have inquired about the water bottle cages on my bike. This is a DIY set up using two 18x1 velcro straps and two water bottle cages. I used the straps to secure the water bottle cages to the end of the top tube, the bottom tube and the stem tube. Take care not to effect the stem and the steering. Of course you can buy the straps at Home Depot and the water bottle cages at any local bike shop. Start with one of the Velcro straps and wrap it around the top tube and bottom tube (in vertical direction). The first strap creates the base and prevents the metal bottle cages from scratching your frame. Then wrap the second strap around the stem and the opening between the top and bottom tubes and run it through the bottle cage frame to secure the bottle holders. For added protection, you can use two zip ties to better secure the cages in place and prevent them from shifting. Links to the straps and the cages: Velcro straps 18x1 one package of two http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Purpose-Straps-Strap-Black/dp/B000TGX0HK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1440471216&sr=8-3&keywords=velcro+straps+18+inch Water bottle cages http://www.amazon.com/Friendly-Swede-Bicycle-Bottle-Holder/dp/B00OCEBZ86/ref=sr_1_7?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1440471363&sr=1-7 This set up will allow you to have two bottles at an easy reach. Also if you use a bottle with a mister, you will have instant air conditioning for those hot summer rides. @Hosermage
  3. 5 points
    Here you can find the right settings for your Sondors eBike generic LCD! KT LCD3 settings for Sondors buy a LCD here: klick Max. Speed: leave it, or set it to 25 km/h Wheel Diameter: 29 for 4.9" tires, 28 for 4.0" Metric and Imperial Units: your choice P1 = 100 (Motor Characteristic Parameter Setting Mode, 1 - 255) P2 = 6 (Wheel Speed Pulse Signal Setting Mode, 0 - 6) P3 = 1 (Power Assist Control Mode, 0 or 1) P4 = 0 (Handlebar Startup Mode, 0 or 1) P5 = 12 (Power Monitoring Mode, 0 - 40) C1 = 01 (Power Assist Sensor and Parameter Select Mode, 00 - 07) C2 = 0 (Motor Phase Classification Coding Mode, 0 - 7, 0:sin wave) C3 = 8 (Power Assist Ratio Gear Initialization Mode, 0 - 8 ) (C3=6 WARNING! Bike starts running forward on it’s own at power up!) C4 = 0 (Handlebar Function Setting Mode, 0 - 4) C5 = 10 (Controller Maximum Current Adjustment Mode, 00 - 10) C6 = 3 (Backlight Brightness Adjustment Mode, 1 - 5) C7 = 1 (Cruise Function Setting Mode, 0 or 1) C8 = 1 (Motor Operating Temperature Display Mode, 0 or 1) C9 = 0 (Startup Password Setting Mode, 0 or 1) C10 = n (Automatically Restore Default Setting Mode, n or y) C11 = 0 (Attribute Selection Mode, 0 - 2) C12 = 4 (Controller Minimum Voltage Adjustment Mode, 0 - 7) C13 = 0 (Brake energy recovery - recuperation - only works with the corresponding controller, 0 - 5) C14 = 2 (Coordination of support levels, 1 - 3, 2 = standard) (description of the C parameters follows) Step by step / Details What you should now to set up your KT LCD3 display: General Settings: Under power off status, hold the „power“ button long, the meter is turned on. Within 5 seconds after boot-up, hold „up“ and „down“ simultaneously for about 2 seconds. Now you are in the settings menu. (between each setting parameter press „power“ to save and to get to the next parameter) Max. Speed: leave it For Europe: set it to 25 km/h to be on the legal side. Wheel Diameter: set it to what it is: 29 inches Metric and Imperial Units: your choice After finishing metric/imperial unit settings, the speed and mileage units stop flashing. Within one minute after stoppong flashing, hold „up“ and „down“ simultaneously for about 2 seconds to enter the P parameter settings environment. Need values for our motor are (http://www.szbaf.com/en/components/component/motor/rm-g06350d.html): Cadence (Pulses/Cycle) 6/1 Reduction Ratio 1:5 Magnet Poles 20 P1 Motor Characteristic Parameter Setting Mode P1 is motor characteristic parameter setting mode. P1 = motor gear reduction ratio x number of rotor magnet pieces, just rounding if there’s any decimal. Sondors: Ratio 5 x 20 Magnet Poles = 100 = P1 P2 Wheel Speed Pulse Signal Setting Mode P2 is wheel speed pulse signal setting mode. If wheel generated 1 pulse signal by a revolution, P2 should be set as1. If wheel generated 6 pulse signals by a revolution, P2 should be set as 6. If users didn’t configure the pulse signal system, and then P2 parameter setting can be 0. The setting range of P2 should be between 0-6. 0 : motor hall sensor only (speed is only shown while motor is working) 1-6: Pulses per Cycle Sondors: Cadence (Pulses/Cycle) 6/1 = 6 = P2 P3 Power Assist Control Mode P3 is for power assist control mode, when P3 parameter setting is1, power assist control mode is gear 5 of “imitation torque control” mode, when P3 parameter setting is 0, power assist control mode is gear 5 of “speed control” mode. P3 parameter needs to be determined according to the distributed function of the controller, its setting range is 0 or 1 Sondors: P3 = 1 P4 Handlebar Startup Mode P4 is handlebar startup mode. When P4 setting is 1, indicating the handlebar is under “non-zero startup” mode, namely, the handlebar can be effective only after startup the foot power assist. When P4 setting is 0, indicating the handlebar is under “zero startup” mode, the motor can be startup by the handlebar directly. P4 setting range is 0 or 1 Sondors: P4 = 0 P5 Power Monitoring Mode P5 is power monitoring mode, when P5 setting is 0, the power monitoring is the “real-time voltage” mode. Namely, it is the method to determine the battery capacity based on real-time battery voltage. When P5 equals to a specified parameter, the power monitoring is the “smart power” mode (this parameter is determined by the battery characteristics, ordinary 24V lithium is generally is 4-11, 36V lithium is between 5_15). P5 setting ranges from 0-40. E.g.: 9 = 24 V 12 = 36 V 15 = 48 V Sondors: 36 V -> P5 = 12 To exit the programming mode just hold „power“ some seconds. After finishing P parameter settings, the P5 parameter stops flashing. Within 1 minute after stopping flashing, hold “up” and “down” for about 2 seconds to enter the C parameter setting environment. C1 Power Assist Sensor and Parameter Select Mode C1 is power assist sensor and parameter select mode. C1 Quantum power assist sensors or similar products 00 5 magnet sensor 01 8 magnet sensor 02 10 magnet sensor 03 12 magnet sensor 04 Power assist sensors from other manufacturers 05 06 07 Sondors: C1 = 02 C2 Motor Phase Classification Coding Mode C2 is motor phase classification coding mode. It is served as identification parameter of different phases of the motor when using sine wave drive and the default value is 0. When C2 setting is 0, indicating that the used Quantum motor phase is an ordinary one. When the setting is a certain value, indicating a particular motor phase is used. C2 setting range is 0-7. Sondors: C2 = 0 C3 Power Assist Ratio Gear Initialization Mode C3 is initialization mode of power assist ratio gear. The setting range is 0-8 (gear). When C3 setting is 0, the meter is switched on, and the power assist ratio is at gear 0. When the setting is 1, the meter is powered on and the power assist ratio is at gear 1, and so on. Sondors: C3 = 8 C4 Handlebar Function Setting Mode C5 Controller Maximum Current Adjustment Mode C6 Backlight Brightness Adjustment Mode C7 Cruise Function Setting Mode Activate the Cruise Mode: C8 Motor Operating Temperature Display Mode C9 Startup Password Setting Mode C10 Automatically Restore Default Setting Mode C11 Attribute Selection Mode C12 Controller Minimum Voltage Adjustment Mode C13 Brake energy recovery - recuperation - only works with the corresponding controller C14 Coordination of support levels (C Parameters are following some time) Want a complete manual? (GENERAL Manual - not special for Sondors) Here you go: KT-LCD3 General Manual.pdf (to view/download you have to be logged in)
  4. 5 points
    If you don't mind doing a little scrounging and wiring a $50 4.4 AH hoverboard battery will fit in the Sondors battery case and can be wired to take over by a simple switch if the main battery drops too low. I fastened it to the main battery with velcro; you have to take it off to remove the main battery. I charge the reserve battery with the standard charger.
  5. 5 points
    Hello, I'll start this thread with some pictures and a short story of my first ride on the Banks-Vernonia State Trail. After my first test ride went so well, I packed the bike into the truck and drove to the Banks Trailhead. The first two miles of the trail are lined with Hungarian Blackberries and August is the month to harvest. I only rode one mile before stopping to pick several handfuls of this unexpected treat. At mile four the gentle grade starts to appear but nothing P-3 can't handle, this was a train track. Just before mile seven on the trail you reach the Buxton Trestle! And you can ride across! Here are two photos of the area near the Buxton Trailhead. I have never been on a trestle bridge before so it's fun and the railing is super sturdy so you feel safe. After the trestle the trail gets a little steeper and I was using more throttle and watching the battery level closely. When I came to this bench at mile 10.4 I sat in the sun and had a few grapes and water. The rack on the bike is the Ibera PakRack Touring. I started back at this point, in hide sight I should have kept going for another two miles as it is all downhill on the way back. On my next ride up this trail, I'll push it till the battery is at one bar and then turn around. I think that after getting my legs back in riding shape the whole 21 miles of trail could be done with the bike. I'll be back on this trail soon, another place I want to explore is the Columbia Gorge Historic Highway bike trails.
  6. 5 points
    (Sorry for the slow response @3D-vice ) I got the battery off EBay - there are lots offered there. I suspect that the bad news about hoverboard batteries bursting into flames has depressed the market. I got LG batteries in the ones I orders, and they seem to perform to spec - 2.2 AH 18650 cells. They come with an XT60 connector. I got a 20 amp rated two way switch (on-off-on) with flat male push-on connectors. The wiring is dead simple. I made black and red wires about 14" long with male bullet connectors on the end to plug into the controller, because that's what is there to connect the standard battery. I left the other end of the black one bare wire and crimped a flat female connecter on the red one. I made a similar black one with female bullet connector on one end and bare wire on the other, and a red wire with female bullet connector on one end and a flat female connector on the other ends to plug into the main battery wires. Then I soldered an XT60 connecter onto a short black wire (bare end) and a short red wire with a 15 amp automotive fuse leading to a female flat connector. I crimped all the black wires together, and then fit the red wires from the main battery and the red wire from the XT60 into the outer posts of the two-way switch, with the red wire from the controller pushed on the center. That made the switch (main) (off) (reserve). I also soldered a charging plug onto the XT60 connector so I could charge it.
  7. 5 points
    The above mentioned Ibera PakRack fits perfectly with no extra hardware needed. I do suggest some Locktite and possibly adding your own lock washers, just to be safe. It's surprisingly light at just over 760g, feels like nothing at all. Installing requires loosening up of the front hardware, and adding on the short extenders to the first notch (C1). Then just put all the bolts into the frame, adjust lightly and tighten and viola!
  8. 4 points
    Posted in my other thread about how I was looking to upgrade my Thin's brakes, and do the 3-speed conversion. After shopping around for all the parts I would need I got the itch to change up a few other things I've been wanting to improve. So I'm going to use this thread to document all the upgrades and ask any relevant questions pertaining to the overhaul. Hopefully others can also benefit from my trials and tribulations. As things stand right now, here's what I have in store for my bike: 1. 3-speed conversion with two higher gears for increased top speed. 2. Upgrade both brakes to 203mm disc units - the parts are cheap enough and I'm going to be taking the rear off to do the 3-speed conversion anyway, so no reason to not upgrade the rear too. Probably more brake than I need but I'd rather have the best braking possible if I'm going to be increasing my top end. 3. Front suspension fork - the fork that Sondors sells seems to be made only for the Fat bikes (I can't find pics of any Thins with suspensions forks), so I'm going to do some research into finding a fork unit that will work with my Thin's wheel and can still accommodate the 203mm disc rotor. 4. Front wheel replacement (TENTATIVE) - I understand that installing a suspension fork raises the front end of the bike a bit. My Thin is already a very tall bike for my size so I'm considering installing a smaller diameter front wheel to offset the increase in fork length. If I go this route, I will probably want to install a 3-spoke mag wheel to eliminate the thin spokes and clean the bike up visually. 5. New handlebars and grips - I've always loved the BMX style handlebars with the cross brace. Will probably go for a low-rise, 3" unit in matte black to it flows with the rest of the bike. The bars are 7/8" (22.2mm) in diameter so I'll have to change my stem too. Can't find a threadless stem that has a 22.2mm clamp on the end, but I can get one with a 25.4mm clamp, and use a set of shims to grab hold of the 22.2mm bars. To keep the new bars at the same height as the stock Sondors bars, I'll be eliminating the steerer tube spacers and cutting the tube down accordingly. Some moto-style waffle grips should finish the look nice. I'll probably fabricate a bracket or custom shims to mount my LCD to the cross bar. Maybe even put a foam pad on it to give it that old-school Huffy look.
  9. 4 points
    Sondors Dual Drive 2 x 750 Bafang motors, dual controllers and batteries. performance stats Front throttle only 0-20 mph- 26 sec Top speed- 27 mph Rear throttle only 0-20 mph- 10 sec Top speed- 30 mph Dual drive throttle only 0-20 mph- 8 sec Top speed- 33.8 mph The Bafang controller for the front motor is not as strong as the Luna 25a KT controller. It has a slow start and gradually build ups to the top speed. I have not found the set up instructions for the Bafang display to unlock its potential. Once I receive Wendy Xie 35a controller for the rear motor, I intend to use the Luna 25a controller to power the front motor.
  10. 4 points
    Well, Storm just got back in town from being overseas, so they are swamped, and are working on getting the page updated so you can order the bike. Also there will be many options available for the fatty and thin as well, so there trying to get those up as well. The current goal is to take orders with an option to pay shipping cost when the bikes are ready instead of up front and expect 3 month wait. The current system in place they'd usually have ordered additional bikes with their orders to the factory will end, because of the added expense and managing. For the future, they are looking to go public with the bike company and eventually have retail sales, but for now, to keep cost down he wants to stick with the model he has in place. The base price is the same as the fatty. The site with new information should go live soon, just can't give an exact date or time, since it's currently being updated with new information. (Storm Sondors, Jack Miller) Will keep you updated on this here in this post on the forum (provided by Bruce Choate)
  11. 4 points
    This is a stock motor on the left vs a 750w motor on the right. Some people have successfully swapped the 750 with the 350. You can apply grease to the gears. All the bearings are sealed.
  12. 4 points
    Hi guys, Just an update on the battery situation for my SONDORS THIN. I am happy to report that the battery I ordered from http://electrobikeworld.com/products/lt48-48v-14ah-lithium-ion-battery on the brilliant recommendation by @WillA (thanks for that man!) has arrived a few days ago. I am also happy to report that it was not confiscated by EU customs (like @3D-vice experienced), which would have been a tragedy. In fact, the guy at electrobikeworld.com (Nick, i think his name was) was really communicative and shipped it perfectly. They have a smart approach where they build what you order when you order it (so it doesnt sit around on a shelve somewhere, which I gather is no good for LitiumIon...) then they ship out of China to France, where they fast-track all the EU customs mumbo jumbo at super speed, and then just DHL it to whereever (internal EU borders are free-trade, so no further trouble from there for us). Anyway, this meant that it got here pretty fast and was not stuck in Danish customs clearance for weeks (like all the lovely bike parts you order from the US tend to be stuck!). But one note on electrobikeworld.com shipping though: nowhere on their website did it say that they'd add a hefty extra 90 USD to the price of the battery for outside-US shipping. Only AFTER I ordered and payed for the battery in the webshop, did an email arrive from them saying "oh and by the way, please pay pal us 90 bucks more"... Not super cool, but whatever. They sure delivered on that 90 bucks though... which I guess is only fair. So getting down to it: how is the new battery? There a few cons I think (aside from the 90USD shipping surprise cost): It arrived in a blue shrink wrap plastic. Beneath, it has a hard plastic shell. Even so it still felt (and feels!) much more vulnerable than the sleek-looking stock sondors THIN battery, in its cool triangle design. So, I covered it in duckt tape, having seen that people tend to do that (monkey see monkey do, I suppose). The battery kind of fits in the SONDORS THIN box. And it also kind of doesnt. You do have to muck about with it for a while, and at any rate you do have to push and squeese a bit to be able to close the bike's box with the new battery inside. I know that people put padding in there, so it doesnt shake about too much - but I honestly can't find any room for that. My battery is just locket tight by the very fact that it only JUST fits in the box. Its a bit shit when you have to open the box all the time to charge (seeing that you now dont have the luxury of using the rubber capped "charging hole" which works a charm with the stock triangle battery). The charger is equipped with a fan for cooling, which makes it super noisy. It works ok, when you are charging your bike in the tool shed at home, but when charging at work, it is less great. I am lucky though, since we have a few un-used offices down the hall. I just carry it in there, and close the door. The fan dosnt disturb anyone in there. The wires connectors for the battery are just normal XT90. So not the nice GX16-4P connectors used with the stock SONDORS THIN battery. This is not an issue, though - just be sure you have a set of XT90'ies lying around, when your new battery arrives, so that you can set it up to be able to switch between stock battery and new battery (assuming you dont just chuck out the stock battery, which I didnt. I like to retain the option to swich back - say, if i ever run out of juice on the road somewhere...). The only thing which is bad about this set up is the clutter of wires and dodgy electrical tape connections inside the box. Nothing wrong with it - you know - it just dosnt "feel" as nice as it did with the sleek stock battery triangle. But all this said, there are numerous pros, of course: The charging speed is super fast! Only 2-3 hours, I think. Whereas the stock battery was more like 4-6 hours. The range with the new battery is just great. Where my stock battery was completely drained (giving power still but with no more power bars in the display) when i arrived at work each morning after my 21km commute, this new battery has barely touched the 3rd power bar! And mind you, this is even if I give it full throttle all the way (which one might be prone to...) The speed with the new battery is pure genious! I used to spend 50-60 minutes each way on my 21km commute, averaging about 28kmh or so. Now with the new battery its more like 40 minutes, averaging 40kmh or so. I sometimes go upwards of 48khm down hills now, which is excellent (and more than enough "action" for me on a daily basis!) It works great with the 3 speeds, which I modded onto my SONDORS THIN previously (see seperate post on this) I can pedal along now, quite happily, and still be assisting the hub motor even at +40kmh speeds! So these two mods together are just a great combo. All in all; I'm very happy with the new battery and the 3 speeds on the THIN. I feel like its a pretty perfect, fast, fun and practical commuter-bike now. It is such a nice feeling to ride fast and effortlessly to work, overtaking all the be-spandexed middle-aged men on their carbon-racers (much to their frustration) only to arrive at work with a non-sweaty shirt but refreshed and awake. It is like a little adventure every day, its green, its efficient, its been cheap (my bike has cost me less than 1,500 USD so far, bike cost, bike-shop help, parts, shipping costs and all upgrades included) - and it simply beats the crap out of sitting in the Volvo on the highway, stuck in traffic, every morning with all the other car-driving smucks. Good luck to all those who consider upgrading your SONDORS THIN with a new battery. Go for it - can highly recommend it! JKS
  13. 4 points
    For those of you heavier riders out there who might have been scared off by the note at the Sondors website that the bike had been "tested" to 250 lbs, let me assure you it works with more! I am 275 lbs (on the way down, with the help of my bike) and I ride just fine. Sure, the hills I can get a pedal assist on aren't as steep as those of you lighter guys and gals, but that just means I ride a few blocks farther to find a less steep hill (and occasionally I walk up the last bit). And I have my fat tire bike tricked out with a rear rack, pretty heavy pack (including the new FOLDYLOCK (http://www.foldylock.com/) which weighs 3.3 lbs, and soon, fenders. So you larger folk, have no fear and get one if you can! I am having a great time!
  14. 4 points
    To document what happened here for the benefit of the Sonders Thin community, I eventually was able to speak with a Sonders tech and the reason my pedal assist was not working was due to the fact that the sensing disk on the pedal side of the chain sprocket was too far away from the sensor. I used a flat blade screw driver to move this black plastic disk just a bit closer to the bike frame (<1/8 of an inch) and the pedal assist started to function normally. If you have a similar problem this could be the fix for you also. Chris
  15. 4 points
    My Ibera Bike rack just arrived in the mail!! Installed in under 15 minutes, fit perfectly! Great value, the thing is solid! Purchased a set of Supercycle 3:1 saddle bags, they also fit like a glove! Very nice set up. Thanks for the link!
  16. 4 points
    OK... a quick test run and some research. With the stock battery, your top speed should technically be limited to around 25MPH with the stock controller or an upgraded 20A controller. I just verified this with mine, setting it to the LCD's max top speed (72Km/h, 44.74MPH) and then going a mile throttle only to see how fast it went. I've got the 20A controller upgrade which according to Velomobile will increase hill climbing performance and acceleration only on the stock battery. I can attest to the two latter items as I noticed a big difference in take off and hills with the 20A controller. To upgrade your speed, you need a battery that can do 48v 20ah or 25ah or better. I believe that the 36v 20ah battery just adds more mileage to the runs and allows for more use of throttle and higher PAS but won't go past 25MPH. My stock battery (36v 8.8ah) can actually send 550 or so watts to the motor when at full throttle against the wind, about 250w to the motor with no wind, and against the wind it maxed out at around 16-17MPH. I believe that Luna's controllers are a little different and will get you to 30MPH on stock battery but dont know that for sure as I dont have their product to test with.
  17. 3 points
    I am 6' 2" and with the seat at the proper height, the handlebar is way too low for a comfortable riding position. After researching and considering different stem risers, new handlebars, etc, I settled on the Ritchey 4-Axis Adjustable Road/Mountain Bicycle Stem - BB Black . The size is 120mm/31.8mm. Once set to your preferred adjustment, the riser angle is locked in place, which to me is critcal for safety. I am very happy with the quality and result. I did switch the bolts from black to the stainless ones that came with our stock stem. I then used the black ones to fill the accessory holes on the frame. Looks better on my yellow frame than the stainless ones from sondors. Here is a link : https://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-4-Axis-Adjustable-Mountain-Bicycle/dp/B01849MCHC/ref=pd_sbs_468_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018MS05OM&pd_rd_r=YGF21D73VB6ZKG294GH0&pd_rd_w=tvI27&pd_rd_wg=lh6Yt&refRID=YGF21D73VB6ZKG294GH0&th=1&psc=1 Here is a pic
  18. 3 points
    Just took another motor apart this morning that has several issues, I'll post step by step instructions on how I go about repairing it. Remove the motor from the housing (scroll down to see assembly process and reverse the order), next remove shear key from the slot in the axle. Remove the half clip Remove the 3 screws, they are tight so take care not to strip them out. Slide the gear off Use c-clip pliers to remove retainer Place motor on a hard surface and push down on rotor housing to overcome the magnetic field. It should slide down and off the shaft, note, you really have to push hard to do this. - Careful not to lose the thrust washer push on the magnets, if one slides down you know they are loose, or if it makes that grinding sound just assume they are loose. Number each magnet so you put them back in the proper order With a screwdriver you can pry up the magnet to remove them Safe spot to store them is on the outside of the housing, be very careful handling the magnets, they are strong and if they slip out of your hand and snap against each other or a metal object, can easily break Once they all removed, clean all debris and old glue from housing and magnets. I usually give each magnet a good cleaning just before gluing it down. this one had several issues, the other being a cold solder joint on one of the halls sensors. Note the 3 in the center of the picture, the middle one is loose causing erratic running of the motor. Starting the re-gluing of the magnets (using epoxy: buy on Amazon) All done, note magnets are flush to the outer edge of the housing. Now to wait 24 hours for the epoxy to cure Just showing how fast the stator snaps into place Install snap ring install gear and half clip slide assembly back in housing Once fitted give it a spin to insure all is well. There should be a spacer and thin washer on the shaft. install cover and 6 allen screws, Note this is a spare motor housing, the reason it isn't laced into a wheel. Done.
  19. 3 points
    Magura is a well-known German brake/accessory manufacturer. I saw a German rider post pictures of his bike with Magura MT5e brakes installed. these are 4-piston monsters that can use 4 independent pads per caliper. The levers are super-whiffy reach-adjustable numbers that are suitably, similarly high quality. I have yet to fully unlock the potential of my front 750 motor, but even running the throttle on just the rear 750 to make a light, I go from a cruise of 26 mph to 30. And stop lights being what they are, they love to turn yellow about half the time when I am going full tilt but too far away to make it. A bare pair of BB7 calipers from China are about US$44. Cheap and easy. And a good upgrade. But I hate half measures and its easy for me to see with my two motors, two batteries, rack, tools, panniers, lead foot and XL self I am exactly the guy who needs strong brakes. So... crap. I pulled the trigger on two axles worth of MT5e brakes. I'm starting this thread to document the job. I know cabled brakes of all sorts. No mysteries there. Hydraulics... Totally different story. So I'll be learning. First of all: Price. Go google these brakes and look at the price. Now forget that number and go to this web site: https://hollandbikeshop.com/ They ship worldwide so translate the site to your language and currency. THEN search on "Magura MT5e". A single MT5e brakeset will commonly run US$125 to US$175. That includes one axle worth of brakes: Caliper, cable and lever connected and pre-bled with fluid (you will need to resize the cable as the kits come with a generous 2200mm which is way more than you need). Holland Bike Shop will sell you this package for around US$80 (varies day to day given Euro-to-dollar exchange rates) and they will ship to the U.S. for US$39. It ends up being just under US$200 for a full set, delivered, minus rotors. I found a different deal. MT5e brakes and 2200mm of cable for US$124 from a U.S. seller with arrival to me next week. Identical kit from different sellers is going for US$217. https://goo.gl/tjnUuT There's only one left. Sorry. But you can always get about the same deal from the other sellers above. So what kind of cutoff connector do these brakes use? Gee that looks familiar :-) So single-motor bikes will need an extension cable. 2x750 builds will need a different Y splitter than I have at present (to keep things clean I am not going to plug an extension into my Y adapter but will do a different Y that splits off outside the battery box this time... live and learn). As such I will be ordering a different Y from e-bike-technologies.de. And I guess selling off the set I have in case anyone is interested. My LBS can do the install for me, but I am going to give it a shot myself. Magura has some good videos on cable cutting and brake bleeding. I also have a bleeding kit on the way, and when I see exactly what cable fittings are int the package I'll decide what cable bits and tools to buy. More to come... EDIT: Follow the posts below and you will see that when this post was originally written, I had not committed to Magura rotors, which I eventually did. Read on to see why (short version - they are thicker and matched to the piston travel of these brakes). I will note here that the rotors to buy are the Magura Storm HC which are the maximum-duty version of rotor compatible with these brakes. Buy them with your order from Holland Bike Shop and save on shipping. Or buy them alone on EBay. Prices are about the same from either vendor.
  20. 3 points
    am going to receive my new LCD soon. it was just a miscommunication. Am glad I don't have to pay for another 1. sondors are good for it they will send me 1. the order has already been place free of charge
  21. 3 points
    Upgrade: 750W Bafang with 7 Speed Upgrade Bafang 750W, 7 Speed upgrade part list and install information. This guide is from ‎Houshmand Moarefi. Below is the recap of the parts and what to watch for. An important note to point out, I did not have a kit so this is not the most cost effective way to upgrade your bike. I think Kyle Chittock from velomobileshop.com is working on a kit upgrade which I am certain it will be a better price option. Also, if you have never laced a wheel, installed, adjusted a derailleur or don't have the tools required, I highly encourage you to work with your local bike shop to install these components. There are also a few other things to be aware of. The motor listed below comes with a different connector than the stock motor. I ended up purchasing a 25a controller from Kyle Chittock, spliced and soldered the wires to connect the motor and controller. Also, the 7 speed gears fits well with this set up except when trying to shift down from 7th to 6th gear, the chain touched the frame. If I was going to do this again, i would go with a 6 speed or plan on not using the 7th gears often. One more thing, I purchased 100mm rims. while they lower the bike height nearly an inch, they make our tires even wider. Please keep that in mind if the width is an issue. Please see the part list along with details and pictures in the comments below. The prices are for reference only. You may be able to find the better prices by searching on various sites. This upgrade would make a great compliment to Lindsey Nguyen L3 or L48 battery. Looking forward to see what others can do with this information. Motor By searching on Bafang’s website I was able to find a 750 watt fat bike motor that was designed for a 175mm dropout. My IGG fat steel bike has a 170mm drop out so I knew this motor would fit our frame. Also, this particular motor is designed for 6-7 speed freewheel so that was a bonus as well. Please make sure you are searching for model Bafang 750W rear hub RM G060.750.DC. | http://www.szbaf.com/en/components/component/motor/rm-g060750dc.html Specs: (click to enlarge) I was able to find this motor on eBay for $205 including free shipping. You may find this for less on AliExpress. Buy on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/182119804261 CHEAPER on ALIEXPRESS: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-bafang-48V750W-rear-hub-motor-with-disc-brake-for-fat-bike/32703966572.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.MO5X8p Rims Since I wanted to keep my original wheel and motor intact, I decided to look for rims. For the motor above you will need a 36 hole rim. Many of the rims available are 32 hole. This is what I found. Love to see if someone can find other rims for less. I bought the 100mm rims, I think 80mm or 57mm rims would work better if you have the stock 4.0 tires. Cost $50-75 per rim http://www.ebay.com/itm/191699964911 || Stock Rims are 36 holes. Cheaper Links (thx to @Tabletteer): http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/wheelmaster-xp966-26-rim-559x96-36h-black-nmsw-schrader http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/rim-wei-26x4-0-dhl80-36-bk http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/origin8-rim-26x4-0-at-pro801-ul-36-72-black Spokes My bike shop used DT Swiss 2.0 Champion Spokes/ wheel cut to length at a cost of $40.00/wheel. Since the motor is heavier than the stock bike, I encourage you to spend the money on the upgraded spokes to handle the extra weight and torque. Controller I used a Velomobile 25a controller and splice and solder the wires to replace the stock connector with the one that came with the motor. (Lunas 25a should work also) https://www.velomobileshop.com/collections/sondors-ebike-power-upgrades/products/copy-of-36v-48v-20a-motor-controller-free-shipping?variant=14256510211 Shimano Tourney A070 7-Speed Rear Derailleur with Frame Hanger. Unfortunately this is the only hanger type derailleur I have found. I have had chain slip twice since this upgrade. I would love to upgrade this part to a Deore or XT for better performance and reliability. http://www.ebay.com/itm/381674214152 Freewheel (Gears) Shimano HG37 7-Speed 13-28t Freewheel Buy on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-7-Speed-Tourney-Bicycle-Freewheel/dp/B00OJZPRVO Shimano Altus SL-M310 Right Shifter Buy on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Acera-SL-M310-Shifter-7-Speed/dp/B003ZM9RX6/ Chain You will need to upgrade your chain to accomodate the longer length required by the derailleur and bigger cogs. KMC Z51 Chain: 6,7,8 speed 7.1mm 116 Links Brown Buy on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-Chain-Speed-32-Inch/dp/B000AOA3PS/ Images (click to enlarge)
  22. 3 points
    Below are pics of accessories I've added to my Fold X. Was striving for a "clean", urban look. I replaced the knobby tires with street tires. For my carrier, I left off the side pannier braces. Below the pictures you'll find some after thoughts and lessons learned. And further down, you’ll find descriptions, links and prices for each product. FENDERS For the fenders, I debated getting the Luna Cycle Banana Fenders as well as the Electra Cruiser Stubby Fender Set. They're very cool looking as I love that black matte finish on both. The Electra set are only designed for Tires with a width of 2.12" and I prefer shorter fenders anyway. Note my RadRover rear fender attaches to the seat post. The amount of clearance is adjustable in two places other than the seat post. LIGHTS I get lots of comments on the bike. Many comments stem from the vintage front headlight. With that said, this Goodkssop headlight has more fashion than functional value. At 180 lumens, it'll warn on comers that you’re there. But you shouldn’t expect it to light your way in dark surroundings. BIKE RACK & TRUNK The positioning of the Yahill rack is adjustable and allows the trunk to rest comfortably on top. The M-Wave lockable trunk is convenient for times you can’t take all your belongings with you. For gym rats, it's big enough to hold a gym shirt, shorts and a pair of men's size 12/13 shoes. For the trunk you'll need a rack that's flat at least at one end....ones like the Ibera PakRaks won't work since they are bend at the front and rear. My biggest challenge was finding a way to secure the two because the trunk doesn’t offer an immediately obvious way to mount it on the rack. So you’ll have to cleverly devise your own way...industrial velcro, zip ties or other hardware. Should you decide to go with a storage solution like mine, consider using drilling a few holes in the underside and using small u-bolts to secure the trunk to the rack. I added half-inch of adhesive foam to bottom of the trunk to soften noise of objects bouncing around. SEATPOST Of all the accessories, the CaneCreek Thudbuster is definitely my favorite. Fat tires help smooth out minor road imperfections. However, there are times when I appreciate the extra cushion. Realize the Thudbuster will add about 4 to 5 inches to the overall height of your seat. And I’m already losing about three inches from the bike carrier and rear fender which both attach to the seat post. I’m 5’ 9” or 175 cm and it’s a slight stretch to mount the Fold. REFLECTIVE DECALS I’m all about making myself visible to other motorists. That’s mainly why I chose the red model. But I also like to make sure I’m seen, particularly at night. So I added red reflective tape to the rims for more side visibility. I affixed black decals for more rear visibility should my tail light give out. Virtually invisible by day the decals light up brilliantly at night when car lights approach. If you look closely at the trunk see if you can find the two triangles and the four lines. TIRES Although the pictures might suggest I live in a rustic environment, I live in an urban setting. So I replaced the knobby off-road tires with more "street" looking Kenda tires. The Kenda tires don't have much of a groove down the middle of the tire. So it would seem rather easy to lose traction… hasn't been much of a problem yet. I bought the tires on eBay and am not sure they're still available. However, if I were to do it over again, I'd get the Duro tires that have a similar look. In case someone might be looking for knobby replacements, I've added the Copertone and Mongoose tires. Goodkssop 180 Vintage Headlight ($14) Okiano USB Rechargeable Bike Light Set ($23) RadRover Standard Front & Rear Fenders ($59) Cane Creek 3G Thudbuster Long Travel 30.9 Seatpost ($149) Yahill Adjustable Quick Release Bike Rack ($39) M-Wave Lockable Hard Shell Bike Trunk ($51) Seattle Sports 1/2" Foam Trunk Insert - 20” x 15” ($18) CustomTAYLOR33 Reflective Rim Tape ($34) LiteMark Reflective Decal Variety Pack ($11) Kenda 20” x 4.25” Ringworm Tires ($31) Duro 20” x 4.25” Super Fatt Tires ($29)* Copertone BICI 20" x 4.0 Sandstorm ($28)* Mongoose 20" x 4.0 MG78456-2 Fat Tire ($24)* *I have the Kenda Ringworm tires. Products with asterisks represent other replacement tires. Also note the Copertone and Mongoose tires are 4.0” wide. I've been told they’ll fit on the Fold just fine. But you might want to double-check before buying.
  23. 3 points
    so after the temps have dropped here in Idaho I started wearing my full face mask and remembered why I hated it... foggy glasses and lens. so instead of going and buying a $300 Ruroc helmet I really want... I purchased a snorkel mouth peace and used a "airborn" medication tube and Boom... no more foggy glasses.... oh and I wanted to share my new setup for my lights. I really like having them up front like this makes it more like a motorcycle .
  24. 3 points
    A big wave from Norway and a happy owner of the Fatty! I'm a bit late introducing my self, having owned the bike for a few months now, but hey better late than never! As a guy too much on the heavy side (280 pounds) I plan on commuting to work, a slightly hilly 10 mile ride one way. So far this nike is perfect for the purpose, running mostly on asphalt and some gravel. Big tires makes for a comfortable ride, and I hope a safe ride when the snow starts falling soon. To round off, here are some pictures of the bike and the local scenery.
  25. 3 points
    Sondors X finally here. I can tell the difference with 500 motor compared to the 350 motor I can go up steeper hills without peddling.
  26. 3 points
    Waiting..... I'm supposed to get the bike in August. I'm getting the standard original Fat Boy. I think I've seen every youtube video on the bike.
  27. 3 points
    i got the cranks off. I used all the crank puller tools with no luck. I borrowed a two prong gear puller from the auto parts store. The pedal size came off with an extension pipe. The non-drive side needed a better grip, so I sliced a piece off of a fender washer and slide it between the bracket and the pedal. I pulled it right off!
  28. 3 points
    Would you believe this bike has two batteries? L3 52V 20ah and LT48 48V 14ah
  29. 3 points
    But... higher rear gears (smaller wheels) will have the same effect as a bigger front wheel. Actually the effect is magnified in the back. one tooth smaller on a little 3-inch wide wheel is a hell of a lot bigger relative change in diameter than 1 tooth on a much bigger front chainwheel. The practical application on a Sondors' is where our single speed freewheels have an effective reliable minimum size of 16 teeth (I had a 14T that self-destructed at the 12-mile mark and haven't tried another from that mfr since... and there's only one Chinese factory that makes them from what I can see). The Shimano 7-speed freewheel clusters a lot of people are putting on have as their smallest wheel an 11-tooth mini-monster. Going from a 16 to an 11 in back is one whopping big gear. Not the most intuitive thing... smaller freewheel cogs (wheels) mean big gears but thats the case. Back in the day when I was riding road race bikes, I was considered an extremist running a 6-speed straight block (only one tooth different between each cog) with the smallest cog being a 12. Nowadays... well they go to 11.
  30. 3 points
    got my white custom aluminum suspension bike and already addicted to modifying first thing was a 60 volt battery ,then 60 amp controller with a new lcd screen then,,750 watt motor with 7 speed gears and shifter 203mm rotors with hydraulic brakes set up like motorcycle rear on left ,,front on the right ,, 75w headlamp tied in to battery,, phone bag,, water bottle holder,, usb taillamp,, Portland design works fenders,, tuffy tire liners,,filled with green slim,,,handle bar end lights ,,,about all I have done anybody have some more suggestions would be appreciated thanks
  31. 3 points
    One detail to keep in mind when stretching the dropouts, whether steel, or aluminum, is you don't need to stretch them out so wide that a 750 just drops right in. A little undersize is alright. As long as it's within about 1/16 inch, you can use your fingers to stretch it the last little bit. The total amount of widening necessary is only a little over 1/4 inch.
  32. 3 points
    I finally have my Storm exactly like I like it. 750w motor. 35 amp controller. 48v 30ah battery. 7 speeds with 50T front sprocket. Hydraulic disk brakes with a 203mm front rotor. Bright lighting front and rear powered off the main system. I didn't care for a paddle, so I changed to a half length twist throttle. I ride the street so one of the first changes I made was to ditch the knobby tires in favor of more street oriented Maxxis, Hook Worms. The combination of lower profile tires, and cutting the seat post down, lowered the seat height about 3 inches below stock height. I like my bike low for looks, pedaling is optional. Top speed is 27 mph, and it gets there in a hurry. The extra acceleration is appreciated when sprinting across a busy street. The stopping power is equally top notch, and it has great feel from the Sondors Shimano hydraulic brakes. My range is effectively unlimited. I can run hard for well over 40 miles, but typical riding range is 60 plus miles, and that could be stretched to a 100 miles on pas 1. I have enough gearing that I can easily pedal at top speed in 6th or 7th gear. 1st gear is a lot lower than stock, so in the event of a power failure my bike would be pretty easy to pedal home. In spite of all these modifications to it still looks basically stock, and people still ask me on occasion if it's really electric.
  33. 3 points
    I have a 56T front with the 16-19-22 rear, but haven't really been able to get the bike past 22 mph on level ground. I don't know how the last guy hit 44 mph on a downhill (must have been a hell of a hill) but all the 3-speed conversion has done for me is allow me to pedal slower at my top speed. It doesn't allow me to pedal up to 25-27 mph as I had hoped. I'm honestly thinking of converting back to a single speed and cleaning up the look of the bike. The conversion hasn't produced the results I was led to believe that it would.
  34. 3 points
    A Happy New Year Sorry for my absence lately, guys! I wish all of you a happy new year.
  35. 3 points
    Some shots I took just before another shakedown ride:
  36. 3 points
    3 minute mile pace around the Lake PAS # 1 and no throttle, mostly flat After 10 miles I still had full battery showing but my legs were getting real tired. Averaged about 18mph and about 80 watts.
  37. 3 points
    I got notice that mine should be picked up and be here Aug 2nd
  38. 3 points
    And it is finally here!!! I just picked it up from UPS and will start assembly tomorrow! Fat Black\Black with upgraded battery - whoo hoo!!!!
  39. 3 points
    I have been a bmx street rider for years just got into ebikes. After alot of looking around the sondors seemed to be a great fit and is. Changed a couple things and more to come
  40. 3 points
    A Suggestion: Since there are now a number of Sondors releases out there, at least 15,000 owners, and a brisk trade starting to happen in used ones, how about we help future - and current owners - and put together a table to help everyone figure out which one they have and what accessories they need? Here's a possible table format. I think I got that right, but I'm not sure. CAMPAIGN SHIP DATE RECEIVE DATE STOCK CONTROLLER non SONDORS LCD 1st Kickstarter Fat Tire (date) 1st Indiegogo Fat Tire (date) OCT 2015 KT36ZWS-LD01 (DC 36V) Wendy 1st Indiegogo Thin Tire (date) 2nd Indiegogo Fat Tire (March 2016) FENDERS IBERA BASKET CONTROLLERS 1200 LUMIN HEADLIGHT Help me fill this out and then I will put it all together. What do you think? Jackie
  41. 3 points
    Wecome Bangddock, I've ordered a thin bike as well, and I'm excited about this bike. I presently have the first wave fat bike , and I'm real liking this bike, especially after the LCD display addition. The display is the best upgrade one can give to an ebike. The display lends to increased performance, ease of use, range, and ride statics.
  42. 3 points
  43. 3 points
    Congrats LCD (but wait until you get the bike) and extended battery. Everything is mostly a wait until the bikes are shipping. Like apple products storm keeps us in the dark. Just have patience you'll be loving your new ride and upgrading as well.
  44. 3 points
    Since I do not have the gearbox yet, all I can provide are assumptions. I think the LCD will basically work, but it will probably output false values, since it takes its input from the peddle assis sensor disc and that disc will remain mounted on the actual crank axis. The planetary gears within the gearbox will cause the chainring to rotate faster or slower than the crankset and the crank axis and thus the peddle assisit sensor disc, so the LCD will be fed with false information about the rotation speed of the chainring, which might lead to problems while using the peddle assist mode. If one would manage to attach the peddle assist disc to the chainring itself, all should be good. Speed-wise, the LCD will have no problems at all displaying the correct speed, because this is taken from the rotation of the motor and the diameter of the wheel. That's my 2 cent...
  45. 3 points
    Really good to hear guys! Everyone should be able to enjoy a Sondors eBike! And, the upside is, chances are if you are riding one, you will not be 275lbs for long because you still have to work at it. So it's a fun toy and it secretly also helps you get a little healthier if you ride alot, so its a win win
  46. 3 points
    The wire from the motor that runs along the bottom of the bike is not fully plugged in.
  47. 2 points
    Thank you @Andi and @Tabletteer @jabomano, your L3 battery range while on the stock motor and 25a controller is very close to what I have experienced on the same set up, that tells me we are close in weight and have the a similar riding style. I do not have any experience with the cyclone motor, so I won't be able to share any real world test results. Here is one way to try to guess your new battery range. Multiply your current battery and amp hours to come up with your total watt hours. Then do the same with your new motors' batter ah and controller amps. If you divide your current watt hours by controller amps, that will give you the number of hours you can ride. Now do the same with your new set up. Compare the new number of hours to the old. Use that same ratio against the 70 miles L3 range and you should see the new range. This model is not exact and won't replace the real world range test. Of course this is only accurate if you stick with the same riding style and average speed. hope this helps.
  48. 2 points
    No bike is going to like the coastal environment. I live within a mile of the Pacific and have a Stumpjumper that only saw the beach road - never in the sand or water - and just the spray gave it rust and corrosion on the exposed (not painted) metal. There's just no getting around the need for extra care on the coast regardless of whether its an electric bike or not. The electrics make things a tad .trickier. A $600 bike isn't going to be waterproofed. With that said, you can do some things to better waterproof the connections 1. apply dielectric grease to each and every connection. This is an abundance-of-caution thing as technically the HIGO connectors are already waterproof. 2. Fender up. I personally don't like the close-fitting wheel fenders. I chose mud guard style that are high up. They keep water off the bike and never clog up. Personal choice there. Also look up a 'body fender' which straps to the down tube and provides a shield to the battery box. I can ride in the rain and no water, sand or dirt touches the battery box as a result. 3. I put a ziploc sandwich bag over and around the LCD. I secure it with a snug rubber band underneath. I hae no idea if the LCDs are waterproof and don't want to find out the hard way. the small plastic bag is so unobtrusive I forget its there. Of these things, the fenders are the biggest deal. I get zero water up off the ground on things I don't want to get wet. As for the rest of the bike, you are going to want to use a damp cloth to wipe it down after a beach ride or suffer the inevitable. If it wasn't an electric I'd say take a garden hose to it and just hose it off before putting it away.,
  49. 2 points

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