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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/18/2016 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Okay, just finished my Aluminum Frame Sondors 3-speed conversion using the following parts list... 1 - Shimano Tourney FT35 6/7-Speed Rear Derailleur w/Hanger - $12.54 & FREE Shipping 1 - SRAM I-Motion 3 Shifter with Connector - $10.00 + $6.90 shipping (I got free shipping on my order) 1 - KMC Z410 Bicycle Chain (1-Speed, 1/2 x 1/8-Inch, 112L) - $8.68 PRIME 1 - uxcell® Bicycle Metal 3 Speed Threaded Scooter Sprocket Freewheel Repair Part - $12.14 & FREE Shipping 2 - 12 mm washers I had at home 8 - (5 white/3 black) Zip ties I had at home Using the following tools, that I already had. Allen wrenches that came with the Sondors e-bike (for brake adjustment, handle bar grip, throttle, brake lever, and shifter) Hammer & Awl (for removing the freewheel cover and breaking the bike chain) (Or buy a chain breaker) 3/8 to 1/2 inch socket wrench socket (for breaking the bike chain) or you can use a piece of wood with a hole drilled into it. (Or buy a chain breaker) Pipe wrench (for removing the freewheel mount) 18mm wrench (for removing and installing the wheel) 10mm wrench (for removing and installing the chain tensioner on the rear wheel) Metal saw with fine blade (for cutting handle bar grip and shifter cable sheath) Diagonal pliers, snips, or dikes (for trimming the zip-ties) Phillips head screwdriver (for adjusting the derailleur) Total cost was under $45.00 in parts. Using the valuable instructions on this thread. (THANKS GUYS!!!), I did the following steps in under 2 hours... Put the Shifter on the right handle bar Using an allen wrench, loosen the two bolts in the metal brackets on the right handle bar grip. Then pull the right handle bar grip off the handle bars, clamp it in a vise, and using a fine tooth metal saw, saw about 2 inches off (8 columns of nubs) Using an allen wrench, loosen the mounts for the throttle and the brake lever and slide them BOTH off the handlebar Put the thottle back on, then the brake lever, then the shifter, then the rest of the right handle bar grip. Make sure the cable runs are okay, and then using an allen wrench tighten all of the mounting screws down. Replace the freewheel Put a towel/mat down to put the upside down bike on. (Don't mar the frame/handlebars/buttons) Unplug the motor plug that runs along the bottom of the rear frame. Take off both protective boots. Photograph BEFORE nut/washer/tensioner/frame/spacer/wheel pictures on both sides of the rear wheel. (It's a good habit, when doing projects) Using an allen wrench, release the tension of the rear brake wire. Using the 10mm wrench, release the chain tensioner bolt connector to the washer that runs to the back of the frame. Using the 18mm wrench, remove the axle nuts and washers and chain tensioner on both sides. Take another picture of the orientation of the inner notched washer on both sides. (Trust me it's easier this way) Un-hook the chain and let hang on the frame, using a towel or cloth to prevent the chain from messing up the frame. Remove the rear wheel and place carefully with cable side UP. Using a hammer and awl, remove the old bike chain. Using a hammer and awl, tap the retaining ring for the single speed freewheel CLOCKWISE. Once the retaining ring is loose, remove the ring by hand, and then lift up the freewheel, catching the loose ball bearings with a magnet. Remove all the other rings, teeth, and then using a pipe wrench and hammer, tap the freewheel mount COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to loosen. Once the freewheel mount is spinning, remove it by hand. Put the 3-speed freewheel on by hand, and hand tighten (no need to crank it down, peddling will do this) Put both the extra 12mm washers onto the axle next to the new 3-speed flywheel. Put on both notched washers the same way as you took the pictures before. Put the wheel back on the bike. Using your fingers, put on the non-chainside nut/washer/tensioner and leave loose. Mount the derailleur and adjust Put the derailleur onto the axle, adjusting the notched nut to be on the inside of the frame. Using the Phillips head screwdriver, tighten the screw holding the notched nut on the derailleur. Using your fingers, put on the nut/washer (LEAVE OFF THE TENSIONER!) on to the axle. Using the Phillips head screwdriver, adjust the H screw of the derailleur, so it sort of is in line with the smallest/outer gear. (we will fine tune later) Run the new bike chain through the derailleur, around the freewheel, and back over the crank, and clip in the master link. (or if you have a chain breaker use this to re attach the chain) Using the 18mm wrench and the 10mm wrench, tighten the bolts holding the wheel in place, and re-connect the rear brake. (You should be able to turn the crank and the wheel should turn. Now it's time to make the shifting work!) Take the shifter and using the 10mm wrench, un-do the nut on the cable end connector and remove the bracket. Pull about 16-18 inches of the inner cable wire through to the shifter handle section, take off the little black nub on the end of the cable sheath, and trim about 6 inches off the cable sheath with the metal saw. Put the black nub back on the end of the cable sheath and thread the inner cable wire back through the cable sheath. Run the shifter cable along the frame and down to the derailleur, don't zip tie it yet. Thread the wire end of the shifter cable through the derailleur cable mount, threading the holes and guides to the bracket. Make sure your shifter is turned to 1 (the lowest gear) Using the 10mm wrench, loosen the bracket nut, thread the shifter wire through the gap, making sure the shifter wire is tight and all the cable sheaths are mounted well, and then tighten the bracket nut. Turn the crank and shift through the gears, making sure that 1 is the small gear and 3 is the biggest gear. (If not then adjust in next step) Using the Phillips head screwdriver, adjust the derailleur so it doesn't jump the chain off the gears and shifts smoothly. Zip tie down the shifter cable against the frame and use the Diagonal pliers, snips, or dikes to cleanly trim the zip-ties. Take it for a test spin! Using the Phillips head screwdriver, more finely tune the derailleur. (if needed) You're done! Enjoy your new hill climbing ability! Scott PS> Other tweaks that I've done to my bike... InterLock hidden inside the seat post bicycle lock - $50.99 25 Amp controller upgrade - $59.98 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China) LCD Control panel - $48.98 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China) 20W LED headlight - $39.99 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China)
  2. 5 points
    Here you can find the right settings for your Sondors eBike generic LCD! KT LCD3 settings for Sondors buy a LCD here: klick Max. Speed: leave it, or set it to 25 km/h Wheel Diameter: 29 for 4.9" tires, 28 for 4.0" Metric and Imperial Units: your choice P1 = 100 (Motor Characteristic Parameter Setting Mode, 1 - 255) P2 = 6 (Wheel Speed Pulse Signal Setting Mode, 0 - 6) P3 = 1 (Power Assist Control Mode, 0 or 1) P4 = 0 (Handlebar Startup Mode, 0 or 1) P5 = 12 (Power Monitoring Mode, 0 - 40) C1 = 01 (Power Assist Sensor and Parameter Select Mode, 00 - 07) C2 = 0 (Motor Phase Classification Coding Mode, 0 - 7, 0:sin wave) C3 = 8 (Power Assist Ratio Gear Initialization Mode, 0 - 8 ) (C3=6 WARNING! Bike starts running forward on it’s own at power up!) C4 = 0 (Handlebar Function Setting Mode, 0 - 4) C5 = 10 (Controller Maximum Current Adjustment Mode, 00 - 10) C6 = 3 (Backlight Brightness Adjustment Mode, 1 - 5) C7 = 1 (Cruise Function Setting Mode, 0 or 1) C8 = 1 (Motor Operating Temperature Display Mode, 0 or 1) C9 = 0 (Startup Password Setting Mode, 0 or 1) C10 = n (Automatically Restore Default Setting Mode, n or y) C11 = 0 (Attribute Selection Mode, 0 - 2) C12 = 4 (Controller Minimum Voltage Adjustment Mode, 0 - 7) C13 = 0 (Brake energy recovery - recuperation - only works with the corresponding controller, 0 - 5) C14 = 2 (Coordination of support levels, 1 - 3, 2 = standard) (description of the C parameters follows) Step by step / Details What you should now to set up your KT LCD3 display: General Settings: Under power off status, hold the „power“ button long, the meter is turned on. Within 5 seconds after boot-up, hold „up“ and „down“ simultaneously for about 2 seconds. Now you are in the settings menu. (between each setting parameter press „power“ to save and to get to the next parameter) Max. Speed: leave it For Europe: set it to 25 km/h to be on the legal side. Wheel Diameter: set it to what it is: 29 inches Metric and Imperial Units: your choice After finishing metric/imperial unit settings, the speed and mileage units stop flashing. Within one minute after stoppong flashing, hold „up“ and „down“ simultaneously for about 2 seconds to enter the P parameter settings environment. Need values for our motor are (http://www.szbaf.com/en/components/component/motor/rm-g06350d.html): Cadence (Pulses/Cycle) 6/1 Reduction Ratio 1:5 Magnet Poles 20 P1 Motor Characteristic Parameter Setting Mode P1 is motor characteristic parameter setting mode. P1 = motor gear reduction ratio x number of rotor magnet pieces, just rounding if there’s any decimal. Sondors: Ratio 5 x 20 Magnet Poles = 100 = P1 P2 Wheel Speed Pulse Signal Setting Mode P2 is wheel speed pulse signal setting mode. If wheel generated 1 pulse signal by a revolution, P2 should be set as1. If wheel generated 6 pulse signals by a revolution, P2 should be set as 6. If users didn’t configure the pulse signal system, and then P2 parameter setting can be 0. The setting range of P2 should be between 0-6. 0 : motor hall sensor only (speed is only shown while motor is working) 1-6: Pulses per Cycle Sondors: Cadence (Pulses/Cycle) 6/1 = 6 = P2 P3 Power Assist Control Mode P3 is for power assist control mode, when P3 parameter setting is1, power assist control mode is gear 5 of “imitation torque control” mode, when P3 parameter setting is 0, power assist control mode is gear 5 of “speed control” mode. P3 parameter needs to be determined according to the distributed function of the controller, its setting range is 0 or 1 Sondors: P3 = 1 P4 Handlebar Startup Mode P4 is handlebar startup mode. When P4 setting is 1, indicating the handlebar is under “non-zero startup” mode, namely, the handlebar can be effective only after startup the foot power assist. When P4 setting is 0, indicating the handlebar is under “zero startup” mode, the motor can be startup by the handlebar directly. P4 setting range is 0 or 1 Sondors: P4 = 0 P5 Power Monitoring Mode P5 is power monitoring mode, when P5 setting is 0, the power monitoring is the “real-time voltage” mode. Namely, it is the method to determine the battery capacity based on real-time battery voltage. When P5 equals to a specified parameter, the power monitoring is the “smart power” mode (this parameter is determined by the battery characteristics, ordinary 24V lithium is generally is 4-11, 36V lithium is between 5_15). P5 setting ranges from 0-40. E.g.: 9 = 24 V 12 = 36 V 15 = 48 V Sondors: 36 V -> P5 = 12 To exit the programming mode just hold „power“ some seconds. After finishing P parameter settings, the P5 parameter stops flashing. Within 1 minute after stopping flashing, hold “up” and “down” for about 2 seconds to enter the C parameter setting environment. C1 Power Assist Sensor and Parameter Select Mode C1 is power assist sensor and parameter select mode. C1 Quantum power assist sensors or similar products 00 5 magnet sensor 01 8 magnet sensor 02 10 magnet sensor 03 12 magnet sensor 04 Power assist sensors from other manufacturers 05 06 07 Sondors: C1 = 02 C2 Motor Phase Classification Coding Mode C2 is motor phase classification coding mode. It is served as identification parameter of different phases of the motor when using sine wave drive and the default value is 0. When C2 setting is 0, indicating that the used Quantum motor phase is an ordinary one. When the setting is a certain value, indicating a particular motor phase is used. C2 setting range is 0-7. Sondors: C2 = 0 C3 Power Assist Ratio Gear Initialization Mode C3 is initialization mode of power assist ratio gear. The setting range is 0-8 (gear). When C3 setting is 0, the meter is switched on, and the power assist ratio is at gear 0. When the setting is 1, the meter is powered on and the power assist ratio is at gear 1, and so on. Sondors: C3 = 8 C4 Handlebar Function Setting Mode C5 Controller Maximum Current Adjustment Mode C6 Backlight Brightness Adjustment Mode C7 Cruise Function Setting Mode Activate the Cruise Mode: C8 Motor Operating Temperature Display Mode C9 Startup Password Setting Mode C10 Automatically Restore Default Setting Mode C11 Attribute Selection Mode C12 Controller Minimum Voltage Adjustment Mode C13 Brake energy recovery - recuperation - only works with the corresponding controller C14 Coordination of support levels (C Parameters are following some time) Want a complete manual? (GENERAL Manual - not special for Sondors) Here you go: KT-LCD3 General Manual.pdf (to view/download you have to be logged in)
  3. 5 points
    If you don't mind doing a little scrounging and wiring a $50 4.4 AH hoverboard battery will fit in the Sondors battery case and can be wired to take over by a simple switch if the main battery drops too low. I fastened it to the main battery with velcro; you have to take it off to remove the main battery. I charge the reserve battery with the standard charger.
  4. 5 points
    To document what happened here for the benefit of the Sonders Thin community, I eventually was able to speak with a Sonders tech and the reason my pedal assist was not working was due to the fact that the sensing disk on the pedal side of the chain sprocket was too far away from the sensor. I used a flat blade screw driver to move this black plastic disk just a bit closer to the bike frame (<1/8 of an inch) and the pedal assist started to function normally. If you have a similar problem this could be the fix for you also. Chris
  5. 5 points
    Hello, I'll start this thread with some pictures and a short story of my first ride on the Banks-Vernonia State Trail. After my first test ride went so well, I packed the bike into the truck and drove to the Banks Trailhead. The first two miles of the trail are lined with Hungarian Blackberries and August is the month to harvest. I only rode one mile before stopping to pick several handfuls of this unexpected treat. At mile four the gentle grade starts to appear but nothing P-3 can't handle, this was a train track. Just before mile seven on the trail you reach the Buxton Trestle! And you can ride across! Here are two photos of the area near the Buxton Trailhead. I have never been on a trestle bridge before so it's fun and the railing is super sturdy so you feel safe. After the trestle the trail gets a little steeper and I was using more throttle and watching the battery level closely. When I came to this bench at mile 10.4 I sat in the sun and had a few grapes and water. The rack on the bike is the Ibera PakRack Touring. I started back at this point, in hide sight I should have kept going for another two miles as it is all downhill on the way back. On my next ride up this trail, I'll push it till the battery is at one bar and then turn around. I think that after getting my legs back in riding shape the whole 21 miles of trail could be done with the bike. I'll be back on this trail soon, another place I want to explore is the Columbia Gorge Historic Highway bike trails.
  6. 5 points
    (Sorry for the slow response @3D-vice ) I got the battery off EBay - there are lots offered there. I suspect that the bad news about hoverboard batteries bursting into flames has depressed the market. I got LG batteries in the ones I orders, and they seem to perform to spec - 2.2 AH 18650 cells. They come with an XT60 connector. I got a 20 amp rated two way switch (on-off-on) with flat male push-on connectors. The wiring is dead simple. I made black and red wires about 14" long with male bullet connectors on the end to plug into the controller, because that's what is there to connect the standard battery. I left the other end of the black one bare wire and crimped a flat female connecter on the red one. I made a similar black one with female bullet connector on one end and bare wire on the other, and a red wire with female bullet connector on one end and a flat female connector on the other ends to plug into the main battery wires. Then I soldered an XT60 connecter onto a short black wire (bare end) and a short red wire with a 15 amp automotive fuse leading to a female flat connector. I crimped all the black wires together, and then fit the red wires from the main battery and the red wire from the XT60 into the outer posts of the two-way switch, with the red wire from the controller pushed on the center. That made the switch (main) (off) (reserve). I also soldered a charging plug onto the XT60 connector so I could charge it.
  7. 5 points
    The above mentioned Ibera PakRack fits perfectly with no extra hardware needed. I do suggest some Locktite and possibly adding your own lock washers, just to be safe. It's surprisingly light at just over 760g, feels like nothing at all. Installing requires loosening up of the front hardware, and adding on the short extenders to the first notch (C1). Then just put all the bolts into the frame, adjust lightly and tighten and viola!
  8. 4 points
    Posted in my other thread about how I was looking to upgrade my Thin's brakes, and do the 3-speed conversion. After shopping around for all the parts I would need I got the itch to change up a few other things I've been wanting to improve. So I'm going to use this thread to document all the upgrades and ask any relevant questions pertaining to the overhaul. Hopefully others can also benefit from my trials and tribulations. As things stand right now, here's what I have in store for my bike: 1. 3-speed conversion with two higher gears for increased top speed. 2. Upgrade both brakes to 203mm disc units - the parts are cheap enough and I'm going to be taking the rear off to do the 3-speed conversion anyway, so no reason to not upgrade the rear too. Probably more brake than I need but I'd rather have the best braking possible if I'm going to be increasing my top end. 3. Front suspension fork - the fork that Sondors sells seems to be made only for the Fat bikes (I can't find pics of any Thins with suspensions forks), so I'm going to do some research into finding a fork unit that will work with my Thin's wheel and can still accommodate the 203mm disc rotor. 4. Front wheel replacement (TENTATIVE) - I understand that installing a suspension fork raises the front end of the bike a bit. My Thin is already a very tall bike for my size so I'm considering installing a smaller diameter front wheel to offset the increase in fork length. If I go this route, I will probably want to install a 3-spoke mag wheel to eliminate the thin spokes and clean the bike up visually. 5. New handlebars and grips - I've always loved the BMX style handlebars with the cross brace. Will probably go for a low-rise, 3" unit in matte black to it flows with the rest of the bike. The bars are 7/8" (22.2mm) in diameter so I'll have to change my stem too. Can't find a threadless stem that has a 22.2mm clamp on the end, but I can get one with a 25.4mm clamp, and use a set of shims to grab hold of the 22.2mm bars. To keep the new bars at the same height as the stock Sondors bars, I'll be eliminating the steerer tube spacers and cutting the tube down accordingly. Some moto-style waffle grips should finish the look nice. I'll probably fabricate a bracket or custom shims to mount my LCD to the cross bar. Maybe even put a foam pad on it to give it that old-school Huffy look.
  9. 4 points
    For those of you heavier riders out there who might have been scared off by the note at the Sondors website that the bike had been "tested" to 250 lbs, let me assure you it works with more! I am 275 lbs (on the way down, with the help of my bike) and I ride just fine. Sure, the hills I can get a pedal assist on aren't as steep as those of you lighter guys and gals, but that just means I ride a few blocks farther to find a less steep hill (and occasionally I walk up the last bit). And I have my fat tire bike tricked out with a rear rack, pretty heavy pack (including the new FOLDYLOCK (http://www.foldylock.com/) which weighs 3.3 lbs, and soon, fenders. So you larger folk, have no fear and get one if you can! I am having a great time!
  10. 4 points
    My Ibera Bike rack just arrived in the mail!! Installed in under 15 minutes, fit perfectly! Great value, the thing is solid! Purchased a set of Supercycle 3:1 saddle bags, they also fit like a glove! Very nice set up. Thanks for the link!
  11. 4 points
    OK... a quick test run and some research. With the stock battery, your top speed should technically be limited to around 25MPH with the stock controller or an upgraded 20A controller. I just verified this with mine, setting it to the LCD's max top speed (72Km/h, 44.74MPH) and then going a mile throttle only to see how fast it went. I've got the 20A controller upgrade which according to Velomobile will increase hill climbing performance and acceleration only on the stock battery. I can attest to the two latter items as I noticed a big difference in take off and hills with the 20A controller. To upgrade your speed, you need a battery that can do 48v 20ah or 25ah or better. I believe that the 36v 20ah battery just adds more mileage to the runs and allows for more use of throttle and higher PAS but won't go past 25MPH. My stock battery (36v 8.8ah) can actually send 550 or so watts to the motor when at full throttle against the wind, about 250w to the motor with no wind, and against the wind it maxed out at around 16-17MPH. I believe that Luna's controllers are a little different and will get you to 30MPH on stock battery but dont know that for sure as I dont have their product to test with.
  12. 3 points
    Upgrade: 750W Bafang with 7 Speed Upgrade Bafang 750W, 7 Speed upgrade part list and install information. This guide is from ‎Houshmand Moarefi. Below is the recap of the parts and what to watch for. An important note to point out, I did not have a kit so this is not the most cost effective way to upgrade your bike. I think Kyle Chittock from velomobileshop.com is working on a kit upgrade which I am certain it will be a better price option. Also, if you have never laced a wheel, installed, adjusted a derailleur or don't have the tools required, I highly encourage you to work with your local bike shop to install these components. There are also a few other things to be aware of. The motor listed below comes with a different connector than the stock motor. I ended up purchasing a 25a controller from Kyle Chittock, spliced and soldered the wires to connect the motor and controller. Also, the 7 speed gears fits well with this set up except when trying to shift down from 7th to 6th gear, the chain touched the frame. If I was going to do this again, i would go with a 6 speed or plan on not using the 7th gears often. One more thing, I purchased 100mm rims. while they lower the bike height nearly an inch, they make our tires even wider. Please keep that in mind if the width is an issue. Please see the part list along with details and pictures in the comments below. The prices are for reference only. You may be able to find the better prices by searching on various sites. This upgrade would make a great compliment to Lindsey Nguyen L3 or L48 battery. Looking forward to see what others can do with this information. Motor By searching on Bafang’s website I was able to find a 750 watt fat bike motor that was designed for a 175mm dropout. My IGG fat steel bike has a 170mm drop out so I knew this motor would fit our frame. Also, this particular motor is designed for 6-7 speed freewheel so that was a bonus as well. Please make sure you are searching for model Bafang 750W rear hub RM G060.750.DC. | http://www.szbaf.com/en/components/component/motor/rm-g060750dc.html Specs: (click to enlarge) I was able to find this motor on eBay for $205 including free shipping. You may find this for less on AliExpress. Buy on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/182119804261 CHEAPER on ALIEXPRESS: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-bafang-48V750W-rear-hub-motor-with-disc-brake-for-fat-bike/32703966572.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.MO5X8p Rims Since I wanted to keep my original wheel and motor intact, I decided to look for rims. For the motor above you will need a 36 hole rim. Many of the rims available are 32 hole. This is what I found. Love to see if someone can find other rims for less. I bought the 100mm rims, I think 80mm or 57mm rims would work better if you have the stock 4.0 tires. Cost $50-75 per rim http://www.ebay.com/itm/191699964911 || Stock Rims are 36 holes. Cheaper Links (thx to @Tabletteer): http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/wheelmaster-xp966-26-rim-559x96-36h-black-nmsw-schrader http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/rim-wei-26x4-0-dhl80-36-bk http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/origin8-rim-26x4-0-at-pro801-ul-36-72-black Spokes My bike shop used DT Swiss 2.0 Champion Spokes/ wheel cut to length at a cost of $40.00/wheel. Since the motor is heavier than the stock bike, I encourage you to spend the money on the upgraded spokes to handle the extra weight and torque. Controller I used a Velomobile 25a controller and splice and solder the wires to replace the stock connector with the one that came with the motor. (Lunas 25a should work also) https://www.velomobileshop.com/collections/sondors-ebike-power-upgrades/products/copy-of-36v-48v-20a-motor-controller-free-shipping?variant=14256510211 Shimano Tourney A070 7-Speed Rear Derailleur with Frame Hanger. Unfortunately this is the only hanger type derailleur I have found. I have had chain slip twice since this upgrade. I would love to upgrade this part to a Deore or XT for better performance and reliability. http://www.ebay.com/itm/381674214152 Freewheel (Gears) Shimano HG37 7-Speed 13-28t Freewheel Buy on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-7-Speed-Tourney-Bicycle-Freewheel/dp/B00OJZPRVO Shimano Altus SL-M310 Right Shifter Buy on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Acera-SL-M310-Shifter-7-Speed/dp/B003ZM9RX6/ Chain You will need to upgrade your chain to accomodate the longer length required by the derailleur and bigger cogs. KMC Z51 Chain: 6,7,8 speed 7.1mm 116 Links Brown Buy on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-Chain-Speed-32-Inch/dp/B000AOA3PS/ Images (click to enlarge)
  13. 3 points
    I got notice that mine should be picked up and be here Aug 2nd
  14. 3 points
    And it is finally here!!! I just picked it up from UPS and will start assembly tomorrow! Fat Black\Black with upgraded battery - whoo hoo!!!!
  15. 3 points
    I have been a bmx street rider for years just got into ebikes. After alot of looking around the sondors seemed to be a great fit and is. Changed a couple things and more to come
  16. 3 points
    A Suggestion: Since there are now a number of Sondors releases out there, at least 15,000 owners, and a brisk trade starting to happen in used ones, how about we help future - and current owners - and put together a table to help everyone figure out which one they have and what accessories they need? Here's a possible table format. I think I got that right, but I'm not sure. CAMPAIGN SHIP DATE RECEIVE DATE STOCK CONTROLLER non SONDORS LCD 1st Kickstarter Fat Tire (date) 1st Indiegogo Fat Tire (date) OCT 2015 KT36ZWS-LD01 (DC 36V) Wendy 1st Indiegogo Thin Tire (date) 2nd Indiegogo Fat Tire (March 2016) FENDERS IBERA BASKET CONTROLLERS 1200 LUMIN HEADLIGHT Help me fill this out and then I will put it all together. What do you think? Jackie
  17. 3 points
  18. 3 points
    Wecome Bangddock, I've ordered a thin bike as well, and I'm excited about this bike. I presently have the first wave fat bike , and I'm real liking this bike, especially after the LCD display addition. The display is the best upgrade one can give to an ebike. The display lends to increased performance, ease of use, range, and ride statics.
  19. 3 points
  20. 3 points
    Congrats LCD (but wait until you get the bike) and extended battery. Everything is mostly a wait until the bikes are shipping. Like apple products storm keeps us in the dark. Just have patience you'll be loving your new ride and upgrading as well.
  21. 3 points
    Since I do not have the gearbox yet, all I can provide are assumptions. I think the LCD will basically work, but it will probably output false values, since it takes its input from the peddle assis sensor disc and that disc will remain mounted on the actual crank axis. The planetary gears within the gearbox will cause the chainring to rotate faster or slower than the crankset and the crank axis and thus the peddle assisit sensor disc, so the LCD will be fed with false information about the rotation speed of the chainring, which might lead to problems while using the peddle assist mode. If one would manage to attach the peddle assist disc to the chainring itself, all should be good. Speed-wise, the LCD will have no problems at all displaying the correct speed, because this is taken from the rotation of the motor and the diameter of the wheel. That's my 2 cent...
  22. 3 points
    Really good to hear guys! Everyone should be able to enjoy a Sondors eBike! And, the upside is, chances are if you are riding one, you will not be 275lbs for long because you still have to work at it. So it's a fun toy and it secretly also helps you get a little healthier if you ride alot, so its a win win
  23. 3 points
    The wire from the motor that runs along the bottom of the bike is not fully plugged in.
  24. 2 points
    Long story short: The generic LCD (KT-LCD3) that you can buy from a lot of vendors, and the "Wendy LCD" that you can buy from Passion eBike (AliExpress) and velomobileshop.com with the Sondors plug will apparently NOT work with your bikes from kickstarter. Sondors has apparently changed to a proprietary Ketung controller and communication protocol for the KickStarter bikes. Only the LCD available from Sondors directly will work with it, and you have to make sure you order the LCD for KickStarter campaign, because they also sell LCDs for the older IGG campaign bikes. What you can do: If you don’t want a LCD Display from Sondors here are a few options: Buy the 20A Controller from Wendy this one will work with your Bike & the generic LCD. If you want more torque wait for the 25A Controller which will be released soon by Wendy. This one will also work with your existing Bike & the generic LCD.
  25. 2 points
    I found the Ibera rack and bag combo on the above eBay site today for $69.00/free shipping. Thank you for posting.


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