Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I just rolled 770 miles on my X, since it arrived in early January. My SONDORS X has been a very reliable Fat Tire Bike and an outstanding eBike. I finished putting on a set of Origin8 Supercells 26 X 4.0 Diamond Pattern Road/Smooth Tires. I took them for a 10 mile ride on July 9th. I am a hard surface rider and the Fort Myers area is improving and adding Bike/Walk paths all the time. Several reasons for the Tire Change, the center lugs on the rear tire were going away, I wanted a more quite ride, and I wanted to start increasing my distance and speed. The Supercells 26 X 4.0 did a great job on all counts. I will change back to the Original Knobby set when it's time to hit the Beach. The tire change lowered the bike 1/2", at the axles and decreased the Tire Width by 1/4", but the silence on the hard surfaces is worth it.
  2. 1 point
    No such thing for 'fat' tires and tubes. that is true for the 26" original and 20" Fold tires. Best you can do is look for the thickest tubes you can get - for the Original this is the Evo fat bike tubes that are about 1.2mm thick. For Folds, the common choice is the Mongoose 20"x4.0 tube which is 1mm thick (Kenda's 20" fat tube is only 0.85mm so brand choice makes a difference). As for tires, again no such thing as a flat-resistant tire... No doubt weight is the consideration. Slick tires tend to be thicker but depending on who you ask they also eat more nails... mine sure did. Tires with lower 'tpi' counts have heavier casings and are considered more flat resistant, but its nothing like a tire with an internal belt like you would see in, for example, the Schwalbe Marathon. The common solution - and its very effective - is to use Slime inside the tubes.
  3. 1 point
    Okay, just finished my Aluminum Frame Sondors 3-speed conversion using the following parts list... 1 - Shimano Tourney FT35 6/7-Speed Rear Derailleur w/Hanger - $12.54 & FREE Shipping 1 - SRAM I-Motion 3 Shifter with Connector - $10.00 + $6.90 shipping (I got free shipping on my order) 1 - KMC Z410 Bicycle Chain (1-Speed, 1/2 x 1/8-Inch, 112L) - $8.68 PRIME 1 - uxcell® Bicycle Metal 3 Speed Threaded Scooter Sprocket Freewheel Repair Part - $12.14 & FREE Shipping 2 - 12 mm washers I had at home 8 - (5 white/3 black) Zip ties I had at home Using the following tools, that I already had. Allen wrenches that came with the Sondors e-bike (for brake adjustment, handle bar grip, throttle, brake lever, and shifter) Hammer & Awl (for removing the freewheel cover and breaking the bike chain) (Or buy a chain breaker) 3/8 to 1/2 inch socket wrench socket (for breaking the bike chain) or you can use a piece of wood with a hole drilled into it. (Or buy a chain breaker) Pipe wrench (for removing the freewheel mount) 18mm wrench (for removing and installing the wheel) 10mm wrench (for removing and installing the chain tensioner on the rear wheel) Metal saw with fine blade (for cutting handle bar grip and shifter cable sheath) Diagonal pliers, snips, or dikes (for trimming the zip-ties) Phillips head screwdriver (for adjusting the derailleur) Total cost was under $45.00 in parts. Using the valuable instructions on this thread. (THANKS GUYS!!!), I did the following steps in under 2 hours... Put the Shifter on the right handle bar Using an allen wrench, loosen the two bolts in the metal brackets on the right handle bar grip. Then pull the right handle bar grip off the handle bars, clamp it in a vise, and using a fine tooth metal saw, saw about 2 inches off (8 columns of nubs) Using an allen wrench, loosen the mounts for the throttle and the brake lever and slide them BOTH off the handlebar Put the thottle back on, then the brake lever, then the shifter, then the rest of the right handle bar grip. Make sure the cable runs are okay, and then using an allen wrench tighten all of the mounting screws down. Replace the freewheel Put a towel/mat down to put the upside down bike on. (Don't mar the frame/handlebars/buttons) Unplug the motor plug that runs along the bottom of the rear frame. Take off both protective boots. Photograph BEFORE nut/washer/tensioner/frame/spacer/wheel pictures on both sides of the rear wheel. (It's a good habit, when doing projects) Using an allen wrench, release the tension of the rear brake wire. Using the 10mm wrench, release the chain tensioner bolt connector to the washer that runs to the back of the frame. Using the 18mm wrench, remove the axle nuts and washers and chain tensioner on both sides. Take another picture of the orientation of the inner notched washer on both sides. (Trust me it's easier this way) Un-hook the chain and let hang on the frame, using a towel or cloth to prevent the chain from messing up the frame. Remove the rear wheel and place carefully with cable side UP. Using a hammer and awl, remove the old bike chain. Using a hammer and awl, tap the retaining ring for the single speed freewheel CLOCKWISE. Once the retaining ring is loose, remove the ring by hand, and then lift up the freewheel, catching the loose ball bearings with a magnet. Remove all the other rings, teeth, and then using a pipe wrench and hammer, tap the freewheel mount COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to loosen. Once the freewheel mount is spinning, remove it by hand. Put the 3-speed freewheel on by hand, and hand tighten (no need to crank it down, peddling will do this) Put both the extra 12mm washers onto the axle next to the new 3-speed flywheel. Put on both notched washers the same way as you took the pictures before. Put the wheel back on the bike. Using your fingers, put on the non-chainside nut/washer/tensioner and leave loose. Mount the derailleur and adjust Put the derailleur onto the axle, adjusting the notched nut to be on the inside of the frame. Using the Phillips head screwdriver, tighten the screw holding the notched nut on the derailleur. Using your fingers, put on the nut/washer (LEAVE OFF THE TENSIONER!) on to the axle. Using the Phillips head screwdriver, adjust the H screw of the derailleur, so it sort of is in line with the smallest/outer gear. (we will fine tune later) Run the new bike chain through the derailleur, around the freewheel, and back over the crank, and clip in the master link. (or if you have a chain breaker use this to re attach the chain) Using the 18mm wrench and the 10mm wrench, tighten the bolts holding the wheel in place, and re-connect the rear brake. (You should be able to turn the crank and the wheel should turn. Now it's time to make the shifting work!) Take the shifter and using the 10mm wrench, un-do the nut on the cable end connector and remove the bracket. Pull about 16-18 inches of the inner cable wire through to the shifter handle section, take off the little black nub on the end of the cable sheath, and trim about 6 inches off the cable sheath with the metal saw. Put the black nub back on the end of the cable sheath and thread the inner cable wire back through the cable sheath. Run the shifter cable along the frame and down to the derailleur, don't zip tie it yet. Thread the wire end of the shifter cable through the derailleur cable mount, threading the holes and guides to the bracket. Make sure your shifter is turned to 1 (the lowest gear) Using the 10mm wrench, loosen the bracket nut, thread the shifter wire through the gap, making sure the shifter wire is tight and all the cable sheaths are mounted well, and then tighten the bracket nut. Turn the crank and shift through the gears, making sure that 1 is the small gear and 3 is the biggest gear. (If not then adjust in next step) Using the Phillips head screwdriver, adjust the derailleur so it doesn't jump the chain off the gears and shifts smoothly. Zip tie down the shifter cable against the frame and use the Diagonal pliers, snips, or dikes to cleanly trim the zip-ties. Take it for a test spin! Using the Phillips head screwdriver, more finely tune the derailleur. (if needed) You're done! Enjoy your new hill climbing ability! Scott PS> Other tweaks that I've done to my bike... InterLock hidden inside the seat post bicycle lock - $50.99 25 Amp controller upgrade - $59.98 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China) LCD Control panel - $48.98 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China) 20W LED headlight - $39.99 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China)
  4. 1 point
    That's how I felt at the end of day 1, too. Success came on day 2, when I accepted that I had to go all in and accept that destruction had to preceed creation.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.