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  1. 1 point
    Josh Wardell on this forum probably has a pin out for the light Higo. Reddy
  2. 1 point
    https://velomobileshop.com/collections/sondors-ebike-power-upgrades/products/new-led-headlight-and-tail-light?variant=33054233859 Email vendor for availability. https://www.electricbike.com/category/technical/ Should serve your interests. Reddy
  3. 1 point
    Please take note: What I am describing here is not for everyone. You need to NOT screw this up. If you have any qualms whatsoever about doing this kind of electrical wiring work, don’t even try it. Mean Well LED power supplies have been used by the DIY ebike community for years. The concept is not new. The weak link here is you and if you screw this up consequences could be severe, including explosions, fire and destruction. So if you know your way around a crimper, or a soldering iron… great this will be easy. Kid stuff. If not, don’t pick this project as your first learning experience. Why reinvent the wheel here? What benefit could be gained? Ebike battery chargers tend to be dodgy. The interwebs are filled with stories of frequent flyers whose chargers keep dying. Its either a dead fan that in turn lets the charger heat up and fry, letting the smoke out of the internals (never a good sign) or perhaps the most common: the charger stops cutting off at its cutoff voltage and keeps on charging … with potentially catastrophic results. So… what is better? You can see that in a popular commercial battery charger: The Grin Satiator. Its so efficient it needs no fan to cool it (or to fail). It is also largely weatherproof and highly reliable. The only demerits it gets from users - which have largely gone away over time - are programming/firmware issues. Oh and its cost is US$300+ once you figure in a programming cable, along with a couple of adapters. I bought one. It works perfectly. But with an AWD bike with 2 batteries that I ride every single day and charge both at home and at work, I found convenient charging means walking up and plugging in. Not carrying chargers with me, unloading them, setting them up etc. So 2 batteries x 2 locations = four chargers. $300x4= not happening. And I carry a charger with me in case I get stranded. $300x5=crazy talk. What to do? Use the same core hardware that gives us the $300 charger but without the fancy user interface. That costs around $40. We won’t have a fancy display screen or onboard memory, but it will still be adjustable with a screwdriver. I have worked with three different models that can serve my purposes. Remember that volts x amps = watts and this will be important when figuring out what to set your charger for: CLG-150-48A Available regularly on Amazon for about US$55 Rated to 150 watts Rated as adjustable from 40 to 56v but actually adjusts from 39v to 58.1v Usable as an 83% charger for a 36v battery up to a 96% charger for a 52v battery Minimum amperage selectable is about 1a Lower wattage rating means it must be set to lower amperage on 52v batteries (2.5a max for a 52v battery) Designed for LED lighting and ‘moving sign’ lighting applications IP65 rated for indoor and outdoor use. Usable at EU or USA voltages. Mean Time Between Failure (MTBF): 303,700 hours. Yes, really. Spec Sheet Here HLG-185H-54A Available often on ebay for about US$40. Normally on sale in the $65-$75 range. Rated to 185 watts Rated as adjustable from 49 to 58v. Actually adjusts from 48.3v to 60.0v Usable as an 80% to 100% charger for 48v and 52v batteries. Not usable on 36v systems Higher wattage rating means can be used for faster charges than 150w CLG. Typically this is a good 3a charger for 52v batteries. Adjustable to very low current (about 0.75 amps) for safest trickle charging, ever. Ramps power down much more slowly and precisely than 150w CLG as it approaches target voltage. Mean Time Between Failure (MTBF): 192,200 hours, or almost 22 years of continuous use. Designed for LED lighting and street lighting applications IP65 rated for indoor, outdoor and wet/hazardous locations Usable at EU or USA voltages Spec Sheet Here HLG-320H-54A This is the Big Daddy. As in bigger and heavier and more power output. Essentially same specs as the HLG-185H-54A but is instead rated for 320 watts Current can only dial down to about 2.0 amps. But the high wattage rating means it can be dialed UP to make it a 5 amp charger (only aftermarket battery plugs are able to safely handle this current level) which is why you’d use this thing. MTBF: 157,100 hours Spec Sheet Here Myself, my bikes have 52v batteries. I do use a couple of CLGs at work for my charging station there but only because I hadn’t found the HLG-185’s yet. The HLG-185’s are ideal chargers as they can charge at levels safe for the Sondors battery plugs (3a max) and can handle any voltage asked of them for a 48v or 52v system. If you have an aftermarket battery that does not use the pin plug as does the Sondors batteries, then you almost certainly have an Anderson Powerpole, an XT60 or an XLR connector. Those plugs can handle the higher amperage the 320 is capable of delivering. I use a 320 as a travel-with charger under the theory that if I am stuck somewhere I want to grab as much charge as I can, as fast as I can. But a 185 is perfectly capable of being a 3a charger and weighs probably half what the 320 does. So… enough details already. Lets make a charger! Here’s what we need: A Mean Well power supply. The process is identical for all three models. A pigtail’d grounded electrical plug. They are sold on Amazon typically as replacements for corded drills and similar power tools. NOTE: I am using a USA standard plug, but these units are made to accept worldwide voltage/current so just go to your local hardware store and choose your local version of a pigtailed, grounded power cord if you live outside the USA. Oh, and read the spec sheet to confirm what I just said applies in your country. A digital watt meter to tell us what we are outputting to the bike. For almost all of my chargers I use $15 inline watt meters. This is optional but very desirable. An interface from the charger to the battery. I will use an XT60 as the direct connection, which is what a lot of aftermarket batteries use. You can then plug just about any adapter into that for your Sondors or whatever else you have. Note in the picture above, bottom center just to the left of the little adjustment screwdriver we will keep with the charger, that there is a pin plug adapter for use with Sondors batteries. That one came from Luna Cycles. A note on battery/watt meters. Here’s the short version: They suck. Or more accurately they are oftentimes off by a bit, and there is no way to calibrate them. Its not uncommon to see a battery meter accurate to within 2%. That sounds ok unless you are charging to 58.8v, which could be 59.98v with a 2% error and that is very, very bad. So you want to take a multimeter or similar *known safe benchmark* (in a pinch the reading on your LCD screen will work once you have disconnected any charger from it) and use it to learn where your chosen meter is in terms of its accuracy. I do this and then I take a labelmaker and make a label telling me how much a battery is + or - actual voltage. So for example, if my target voltage for a 52v battery is an 80% charge of 55.4v, and my watt meter is reading 0.50v higher than it should be, then I create a label that says +0.50v So now, we have our parts in hand and its time to assemble them. In order the steps are Step 1 Attach the pigtail’d cord to the input side of the Mean Well unit. For the USA plug and the Hanvex drill cord I have been using the wire sequence is green (cord wire) to green (charger wire) for ground, black (cord) to brown (charger) for AC+ and white (cord) to blue (charger) for AC-. Note that the wire colors are noted on the charger left side, but as ACL and ACN. DO NOT SCREW THIS UP. These are international standard designations and colors which as usual the U.S. does not follow. If you want to check my work, start googling. Myself, I use marine heat shrink butt end connectors to connect the wires. I also use rather expensive electrician’s-grade crimping pliers. There is a big difference between proper crimping pliers and … well, pliers. Use the right tools for the job. After I crimp, I heat shrink the connectors, add heat shrink around each individual wire and then do a heat shrink around that entire assembly. How you do it is up to you (i.e. soldering or whatever). Remember that this is mains power you are fooling with here so get this right. Step 2 Attach a battery side plug. In this case I am using a male XT60 which both works for my aftermarket batteries that have female XT60 charge plugs, and my Sondors bottle batteries where I can use my XT60-to-pin-plug adapter. Same procedure as in Step 1 although a little simpler as there are only two wires. Note that some of these charger units do not use red and black wires. If you are not familiar with what the colors mean, the casing on the unit specifically tells you which wire is which (V+ and V-). When you are done, you will have something looking like this: Step 3 OPTIONAL - attach an inline watt meter to the output side of the Mean Well unit. This is your power display. I call this step optional because you could just calibrate your charger output once and not use a meter to monitor progress (easy enough to turn on the bike display during charging, which will hurt nothing). Myself personally, even though meters are pesky insofar as getting them calibrated, I vastly prefer to have a real time progress monitor I need only glance at. Step 4 OPTIONAL - make an extended output cord. Essentially one big extension cord on the battery side. You’ll know real fast if you’d like to have one of those as whatever you made doesn't reach. You could just hardwire this to your output lead on the charger. But then you are stuck with that length alone. I prefer to make a cable as I have no problem using a couple of 12 AWG XT60 pigtail ends to make a dedicated extension. Step 5 Connect an interface to your battery. For a Sondors, this is a bottle battery connector. For many batteries the generic standard is a male XT60 connector. You can either buy a direct-connect bottle battery adapter (see link) or connect a male XT60 pigtail and then buy an XT60 Female-to-bottle adapter. Doing it the latter way makes your charger able to connect to any battery (if you have another battery with say XLR connectors you can make an XT60-to-XLR adapter via a couple of pigtails). You just swap in the adapter you need. In this case I am picturing a Luna-sourced XT60 female to pin plug adapter. A different source for the same thing is in the parts list below Step 6 Go out and buy a little Phillips head screwdriver. This tool will live with your charger forever so you should buy a new one unless you have an extra already. Its a must-have for the next step. Also required if you plan on changing your settings (lets say you want to charge 80% one day and 100% the next). If you have performed all of the above steps, you now have a parts pile that looks like this (well sort of, the meter and the charger have already been labelled with calibrations but just pretend we haven't done that yet): Step 7 Dial in your output voltage. Once you have connected an AC plug, and a battery side connector AND connected the inline watt meter, you simply have to plug the new charger into the wall. Amps will read zero and volts will read whatever the unit is currently set for. See the little rubber whatsits that are capping the voltage (Vo ADJ) and amperage (Lo ADJ) adjustors? Pull those off and stick the screwdriver into the Vo ADJ hole. Twiddle it around gently until you feel it seat into the adjustor. Now turn it first one way, then the other. Watch the voltage readout on your meter. One way goes up, the other down ... and the directions are different on my 185's and 150's vs. my 320 so you figure out what direction does what yourself with your own unit. Step 8 Calibrate your meter to reality. Remember what I said above about meters. You need to figure out how far off your meter is from your display. As you can see if you look closely above, this meter is off by +0.50v. Thats a fair bit. The good news is when these types of meters are off, they are consistently off so you just need to know by how much (and if you can find a meter that is consistently accurate tell me. I can't find one at any price). this is a pain but you only have to do it once. Step 9 Dial in your output amperage. OK... moment of truth time. You are plugged into the wall. Time to plug into your battery. Maybe you should do this out in a field with a long extension cord. Don't do it in the baby's nursery or in Grandma's bedroom while she's asleep. Plug the battery in and now watch the meter. The voltage switches to now show the battery state of charge. The amperage comes to life and shows the current level (amps) being fed into the battery. Once again, like you did with the voltage adjustment, use your screwdriver this time in the Lo ADJ socket and twiddle it until you see the safe amperage rate you safely want to safely run your charger safely at. Did I forget to mention safety? And volts x amps = watts ? Pay attention and get this right. If your meter is off - especially if it is reading lower than actual voltage - you will want to find out by what percentage it is off and adjust your indicated meter amperage less that percentage amount. IMPORTANT SAFETY TIP: Your meter does not switch its power feed on and then off like a light switch. Instead, it will slowly ramp down its current delivery level (amperage) as the battery approaches your target voltage. So that means if you plug in a battery that is fully charged or nearly fully charge, you will get a really tiny reading of current going into the battery. Because of this, when performing calibrations you must have a battery that is at least a couple of volts low. At least. If you are charging to 54v (100% charge on a 48v battery) then plug in a battery at no lower than, say, 50v state of charge. If you have a Sondors battery and are using a pin plug, NO MATTER WHAT make sure this value does not exceed 3 amps. The plug can't safely take more. Again, remember that volts x amps = watts. So if your 185w HLG-185 is feeding the max of 3.45 amps, that means at 58.8v it will be sending 203 watts which exceeds its 185w rating and thats VERY bad. Here again. Use your brain and don't screw up. Best to leave a safety margin. For example I have one of these set to a 'full' charge of 58.3v and 3.0 amps. 175 watts. Step 10 Add a carrying case? Your basic MOLLE water bottle bag will fit this all beautifully. the slightly larger Condor bags available on Amazon will do so with a little more fudge room. I got two green ones on sale for $5 and $8 respectively. Sometimes they are more. Happy hunting. In the end what do you have? A charger that you can expect to be reliable literally for years. Not necessarily cheaper, but dependable. If you buy this once you won't have to buy it again in 6 months or a year... and thats the usual story out there in ebikeland for the more demanding users in the DIY world. Parts (remember oftentimes you can get these chargers for a lot less on clearance on Fleabay). Especially the HLG-185 which is commonly used in street lights): Mean Well CLG-150-48A http://a.co/4IaEpLU ($55) Mean Well HLG-185H-54A http://a.co/dy3U4qI ($68) https://ebay.us/H3w74L ($56.50) Mean Well HLG-320H-54A (84.10) https://www.onlinecomponents.com/mean-well/hlg320h54a-43123431.html Hanvex 18awg 3-prong AC power cord, 6ft, pigtail’d http://a.co/iNJAOMX ($8.99) XT60 male and female pigtails (need 5 total if you are using an inline watt meter, extension cable and xt60 lead for battery) http://a.co/fuzw4cM (8.99) Inline watt meter http://a.co/b0iE00l ($15.99) Option: Female XT60 to male barrel plug adapter www.progressiverc.com/female-xt60-to-male-barrel-plug.html ($4.99) https://lunacycle.com/xt60-female-to-barrel-male-plug/ ($6.95) Carrying case for the CLG-150 or the HLG-185H- any similar bottle carrier should do - ($8.95) http://a.co/3ln2fd6 Carrying case big enough for the HLG-320H (really, this is the best case for all of them, especially if you get them on sale😞 http://a.co/d/6bSx1lt
  4. 1 point
    RC Electronics, Inc.Watt's Up WU100 DC Watt meter and Power Analyzer (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B6N2WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GfvPBbPMBAHHE
  5. 1 point
    @Chad Lauterbach Looks to me like you are screwed here, in the sense that you aren't going to get that battery to fit... and the LAST thing you want to be doing is stripping off that heatshrink. Inside my custom electrobikeworld battery is essentially a cardboard box by the way, thats how they can get so much smaller I assume). I added heatshrink layers to it like you are thinking of removing. they do a VERY important job for pack stability. Luna can't do much - not anything, really - insofar as battery dimensions are concerned. Those packs come in from a premium vendor in China and while they are more or less top-tier, they are Chinese and that means all you expect it would insofar as enforcing liability for unapproved/capricious deviations. This has gotten a lot of attention from Eric Hicks of Luna on Facebook recently and factors in as the primary reason they are going entirely to in-house battery manufacture (notice, if you will, the mass-availability of the Wolf packs, which are the first in a slow wave ). So... what about moving forward? It so happens I am locked in the middle of spec'ing a custom battery bag for my new AWD build. Check this pic out: This single bag holds both my Luna 17.5ah battery and my two parallel'd (12ah total) mini cube batteries. So 29.5ah in this bag (its an XL frame so thats a deceptively big triangle). The bag is the very well-known Falcon EV bag (google it) which is the gold standard from battery bag manufacturers. Its purpose built and needs a big triangle... which you happen to have. I suggest you make that your first stop. I am doing bags exclusively after I spent a fair amount of time working with custom battery box builders. Notice I am using a bag? Well, a box was my first choice too. Because Sondors, right? Here's the rub: Turns out you lose a hell of a lot of space due to fittings to hold the box together. So much so I wasn't willing to proceed with a box and - two bikes built since that decision and #3 in progress - I have no regrets on that front. As you can see though, that Falcon bag is not perfect. For starters I don't like how I had to fit the batteries inside. Next, I have more room in that triangle and I can better lay out my batteries inside if the bag is about 19.75" to 20" long and has about another 1" of height. So I am talking to custom bikepacking bag manufacturers. Still trying to find someone who will be able to work with my to-do list. One vendor who is absolutely *perfect* is tied up until Spring, I heard this morning. I have feelers out to another maker and have a third lined up if #2 doesn't pan out... Here's the bad news: Figure $300+ for the bag. But its a perfect edge to edge fit without any loss of space for hardware.
  6. 1 point
    Well, two things. If that battery is wider than 2.75”, it doesn’t match Luna’s drawing. It’s not as represented and doesn’t fit and it’s their fault. Of course, there’s not much you can do besides a court case to try and force them to accept responsibility, if they won’t. They are masters at denying responsibility. I know, I’ve had problems with the Rack Battery I bought from them in 2015. Other small items that were not as represented also. The barrel charging dongle they supplied with this battery was the wrong diameter, fit but was loose and could caused intermittent contact. That situation fried the BMS. They stated that their batteries didn’t come with any warranty and since that rack battery was no longer manufactured .... there was nothing they could do. I can’t figure out how EBW can produce a 48v Battery Pack that is 2.5” since 18650 flat top cells are 2.559” without the metal lattice on both sides, plus heat shrink. My EBW L3 52v measures 2.75. I certainly wouldn't remove any of the wrap. Make sure the edges of the pack are not contacting the inside radius of the Sondors battery box which would further limit width. You could always still keep your EBW 48v in the Sondors box (or not) and carry the Luna in a side pannier. I know that’s not the design element you desired for your bike but it’s what I do when camping or when I travel to a friends house on the other side of the MetroStool. I can’t imagine riding without panniers but that’s just a personal choice and I carry a lot of stuff, besides everything, EVERYTHING I grocery shop. I even have this larger volume set for bigger loads ( I could deliver pizzas in the top trunk of this one 😁) That was when it was pretty Stock. Before building, better double wall rimmed wheels without holes and 12g Sapim spokes, 750Watt, 7 Speed Bafang .... and well everything else on the Original. The only Sondors parts left are the frame, battery box and bottom bracket. Oh, just remembered a third option. I’m building another Fat eBike based on my Dolomite. Although I have a Luna battery bag it doesn’t fit the frame triangle exactly and instead of Scrubbing Off or Painting Over the Luna Logo and modifying the Velcro straps, I plan on building a battery box. It’s really a pretty simple project and I love this kinda stuff, and since width is your issue you could make it as wide as you’d like. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zOe2cjbgP3c Reddy
  7. 1 point
    @Chad Lauterbach, I just measured both my EBW L3 52v 20.3ah battery and my Luna 52v 17ah long range / high power battery and they both measure zackly 2.75” width. And I reviewed the drawing of the Luna 52v 14ah long range / high power and it shows 2.75”. You did say 2.75” would fit, right? I can only guess that if your 52v 14ah is wider, that there are stiffeners on the sides of your pack that make it wider than what’s published or the stencil between cells to improve sturdiness adds width to the pack. They may have changed their building methodology. Uses composite stencils in between the cells to make the pack more rigid and more reliable. Although scrutinizing their drawing shows a 3” pack width on the top right image.... while 2.75”is specified elsewhere. Not sure what’s going on with their drafting. The 18650 individual cells measure 2.559” in length (width of the pack) and the metal lattice, should only measure 1mm (.04”) per side or so. I do remember reading somewhere, not sure it was on Luna ,that “Now using thicker pack rap” or some such statement but a few extra layers of Heat Shrink, shouldn’t be responsible for the difference in your packs Reddy 9B9F8A57-43BC-4A67-AD1A-34BC26B4C534.jp2
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    My point was to use the LCD8H manual to clarify the LCD3 if confusion exists. the two are similar enough that you can gain insight via the improved English translation. Sondors owners are doing direct-swap upgrades to the 8H now so they are interchangeable without a change in controller.
  10. 1 point
    I recently picked up the Topeak rack, trunk bag, and fenders. The installation was really easy and the fit seems to be great on the Thin. I'm not sure how the first would be on the fat bikes, but my guess is at least the fenders wouldn't fit. Here's the parts I bought: Topeak Explorer Bicycle Rack with Disc Brake Mounts: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIAVHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Topeak MTX Trunk Bag DX: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0187ZRLX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Topeak Defender Tx Front & Rear Set: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSZLR7F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 A couple install tips: I had to remove the velcro strap on the rear fender as it seemed to stretch the fender too much, but it still seems really solid. It's easier to put the fenders on first in my opinion, on the back, make sure you use the holes closest to the rear for the fenders as the others are for the rack. I found I needed to use the very last hole on the rear fender for the L bracket and the last of the three locations for the bolts on the rack. Here's some pics of my bike post install.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    @Chad Lauterbach you spoke too soon :-) The 100x177 is the identical replacement BB for the Sondors. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/high-quality-sealed-bearing-steel-fat-bike-snow-bike-100-177mm-bicycle-bottom-bracket/32696213446.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f054c4dxDt42v I have abandoned my attempts to find a different sealed replacement. I came very close with a 120mm Cyclone BB that adjusts down to 100mm and has a 178mm spindle, but the drive side extension is too short and cannot be easily drifted further out. I went up to a 60T fixie chain ring on my 130 BCD crankset. Driveline sells them on Fleabay, along with 58's, 56, 55 etc. To fit anything past 52 you have to mount on the outside of the crank spider and do some work in the back to deal with the chainline.
  13. 1 point
    @johnc@ those are crank arm lengths. Measures from the Bottom Bracket Spindle centerline to the pedal spindle center. Reddy
  14. 1 point
    @Chad Lauterbach Can you give me some advise on a crank set? Or anyone reading this! My freewheel failed so I replaced it and would like to upgrade my crank set and chainring while I'm at it but, when I'm looking at these there are options that I don't understand for my Thin. ex. 165mm, 170mm, 175mm and 180mm?? Thanks in advance. john
  15. 1 point
    While I would be hard pressed to argue that the cranks are not as basic as they come on these bikes, they *are* ordinarily quite adequate over the long term. There's no reason for a crank to click, actually. More details on that? A crankset has no moving parts so there isn't anything to click. The thing that is moving is the bottom bracket and I can guarantee that epoxy is never the answer for repair if it needs it. Whats going on down there? Insofar as the cranks are concerned, the Origin8 Track/SS fixie crank is probably the highest quality to easily fit on a Sondors. Bear in mind it also has straight crankarms which are great on a courier bike but only barely clear on a fattie. But they do clear. https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Track-SS-Crankset/dp/B00PWK8X3E You can pretty much forget about finding a quality crank with a 40T chainring. Nothing that is of good quality exists. However, you can buy a Driveline chainring separately. Those are sturdy 7075 alloy and you can even buy a pants guard for them. Myself personally I buy them oversized by a couple of teeth so ther is still less chance of a snag. So if you have a 40T ring, buy a 42T guard. You will wind up with a very attractive setup but you'll probably be into it for over $100 total... which is not much as cranksets go. On EBay I searched for "130 BCD 40T chainring" and this was the first result (there are plenty of others this was just the first): https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOJO-Fixed-Gear-Chainring-40T-130-BCD-Track-Fixie-single-speed-1-8-BLACK/123115492129?hash=item1caa415321:g:IBMAAOSwvtla7NTm Looks like no chain guards are made that fit with that 130 bcd. You'd probably have to go to a 104 to get that.
  16. 1 point
    It's important to secure your Sondors THIN or Fat eBike, here are some Locks recommendations: Please note: Cable Locks are considered as unsafe, we already have stolen Sondors eBikes which were secured with a cable lock! The Club UTL800 Utility Lock The Club UTL800 Utility Lock is a part of The Club line of quality products by Winner International. Many Sondors Owners are using this particular Lock and recommend it. Buy now: on Amazon.com on ebay.com Abus Bordo BIG 6000 (Foldable Lock) The Bordo Folding locks feature a linked construction to provide maximum flexibility to secure to racks, fence posts, signs, etc. Compact design offers many frame mounting possibilities. Coating to prevent damage of the bicycle's paint - ABUS Premium cylinder for maximum picking protection. Buy now: on Amazon.com on ebay.com Kryptonite 999492 Black 14mm x 60" (1415) Extreme motorcycle and scooter security for the highest theft locations. 12mm six sided chain links made of 3t hardened manganese steel for maximum strength. Durable protective nylon cover with hook and loop fasteners to hold in place. Buy now: on Amazon.com Do you recommend or know another lock? Tell us!
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    I think that the first time anyone has mentioned and shown those on the forum. Fits snugly round the tires, nice.
  20. 1 point
    Hi Markpx. I got my new THIN just before Christmas. I was looking for a fender with full cover and decided to buy Cascadia ALX 700 wide from Planet bike. http://ecom1.planetbike.com/7055-8.html This 50mm wide fender fit perfectly between the forks and gives me full protection from mud. The instruction did not give any details on how to install the fender properly for bikes with disc brakes so it took me a while to figure this out (I have little experience in tuning up my bike.) I realized after several attempts that I just need to use the spacers that came with the fender's hardware set. After figuring that out, it was easy. Hope this helps.
  21. 1 point
    I made a decision for a trunk bag and rear carrier. I chose the Topeak, quick MTX track system, and installed the rack this past weekend. The trunk bag is Topeak's: MTX TRUNKBAG DXP... The bag also has expanding top / panniers; very roomy. The bag slides along the top length of the carriers track (from rear to front) and latches to front of the carrier. This makes the bag very convenient for quick attachment and detachment, and securely latches to the rack. It has a stitched on handle, and ad-on shoulder strap. The rack is Topeak's: Super Tourist DX, Tublular Rack (with Disc Mounts) It has panniers hangers and blockers. I used it for a few days now with a load of tools, for on road repairs, spare tube, hand air pump, and lunch. The bike took a few extremely sharp hard bumps and the bag stayed secure to bike. Expensive; but I'm satisfied it will cover all of my bases.


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