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Showing most liked content since 12/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Just purchased these 2 bikes. Would definitely be interested in your carry bags.
  2. 2 points
    Seldon crisis... Outstanding. Having poked at things and swapped parts out for the last 1.5 hours, it appears to have been a failing front brake sensor. Throttle and pedal assist both seem to work fine with the front brake sensor disconnected. Greatly appreciate your responses and will add a multimeter to my toolkit to debug in the event that it misbehaves again.
  3. 2 points
    Howdy @Reddy Kilowatt Thanks for the warm welcome! We love Sondors for bringing cool e-bikes to the masses... We will keep Sondors-compability in mind for future projects! :-)
  4. 2 points
    Howdy @Ossian Vogel and welcome to the Sondors Owners Forum. We love vendors featuring products for the line, espically when they make them more Sondors compliant & making them avalable thru our forum. Thats the best Pizza Delivery Bike on the planet. Can I get a large Bison Sausage, Jalapeño, and Pepper jack Cheese? Yippie TI Ya Yay Reddy
  5. 2 points
    If you want to use the upgraded controller and LCD without the 6pin throttle (if, like me, you live in a country where throttle is illegal on an e-bike or don't have the correct 6 pin throttle), you need to connect pin 3 and pin 5 of the black connector to make the LCD+ controller work - see sketch.
  6. 2 points
    Hey All, recently a good friend of mine did a complete hydraulic brake upgrade to my Sondors. But, but, but what about the e-brake switches you might ask. Well that is the really cool part. Ther is a new product on the market called the TripWire that is for this exact problem. And they have a new model that is plug-n-play for the Sondors. Anyway, I encouraged him to do a walk-through video for our DIY crowd...and he did a great detailed one and put it up on YouTube. On my project he installed Formula brakes with 203mm discs, including the TripWires which work perfectly. The difference in braking power is fantastic. But the best part is the FEEL. I now do all my stopping with one finger on the levers. Plus they look great! Here is the link to the video: Enjoy.ave a new
  7. 1 point
    Tanks to my second profession as clairvoyant, yours is already done @Mike Ritchie: thanks for the elaborate info: even though it's not legal here, I might try anyway to use the Sondors throttle...
  8. 1 point
    That's a great idea. Throw a cover on something and people tend to ignore it. My friend has a fabric tonneau cover on his pick up truck box. Always leaves his bike, drums, camping stuff, whatever in it and never has a problem.
  9. 1 point
    Just got it and let me tell you it is great fun. Beats driving. Can't wait to get it out on the single tracks.
  10. 1 point
    I thought I clarified that but no, my state is on the 3rd Coast not east or west)).....North Centeral Texas, North of the Metro Stool....I live in a hundred year old cabin, in an oak forest, on the lakeshore of a large lake and heat with a wood stove. I did light my first fire of the season last Thursday when the temp dipped to 24°F after 30 hours of below freezing. Nothing like your Winters and until this season our Winters have been so mild I've only built 5 fires for heat in the last 3 years. I prefer to stack border collies on me at night. Dick Proenneke & Popcorn Sutton are my heroes. My Kitchen and Driveway. But that's why my experience with cold weather battery performance is not relevant. It's you guys that can submit yours to the forum. It is going to be frosty here until next weekend with snow and ice forecast for Monday Night. Reddy
  11. 1 point
    Just Ordered my Xfold, Can't wait. First Ebike.
  12. 1 point
    Mud Flap, because the UNIMOKE fender is not sufficient for dirty / salty roads!
  13. 1 point
    Hi all, thank you very much for your help! I got an email today, that the money had been refunded. So I hope everything will work out now... @Andi: actually I did not mean to be impatient. But after a month I thought ... To be honest I had somehow expected that my post will get deleted. But It did not and I got helped out. So this is really cool! Thank you for this great forum! On the other hand I just signed up for the SONDORS mailing list. Maybe one day I will get the bike I woud like
  14. 1 point
    Hi Tim ( @erde ) your order has been cancelled and refunded today. Have a great day, Andi
  15. 1 point
    Thank you for the advice and the link ReddyKilowatt! I am going to Ebay as we speak to purchase those tubes!
  16. 1 point
    Thanks Reddy. Great shot! Yes I love taking advantage of public transportation and bike riding. It is this whole other world most people in my area don't even consider. Where did you order your back rack from? I am going to get one but want to make sure it fits my Sondors Original perfectly. I will post a photo of my ride soon.
  17. 1 point
    After everyone had got their Christmas gifts this year, and I helped the kids put together what toys and such that they got I finally spent the last day of break putting together my Sondors! Road it 16 miles to work the very next day. I have to say I was a bit nervous based on some comments I had read, but the Sondors did not let my down!! My faithful steed hauled my butt all the way there with very little effort on my part, and in 18 degree weather no less. Spent my time in the office excited about getting back on enjoying a fun ride home. Well worth the investment, and in about a year I will get all that money back in what I will save on bus tickets...
  18. 1 point
    Howdy @Morgan Johnson and Welcome to the Sondors Owners Forum, supporting over 30,000 happy Sondors eBike owners. We are glad you found us and enjoy your stay. Many of us use our Bikes as daily drivers and in over 5,000 miles, mine has never left me on the side of the road. They are very Robust & Dependsble. This is where troubled owners come for help. I can reach every part of the vast DFW metroplex, from my rural lakeside cabin, for a $2.50 RT Commuter Systen day pass that transfers to any of 3 different commuter transit systems, with my Electric Black Lightning onboard. Dont forget to post pictures of your bike and adventures to the Gallery. Reddy
  19. 1 point
    Absent any other decent sounding advice to the contrary, Luna Cycle recommends you charge to full capacity for the first six charges to ensure the pack balances and the cells achieve full voltage. Thats very likely what you experienced if this is all new stuff. Normal. After those first six charges, if you are of a mind to preserve battery life you charge to only 80%, with occasional charges to 100% to re-balance the pack. I charge twice daily and do a balance charge to 100% once a month.
  20. 1 point
    It´s the L48 from Lindsey. Charged it again and 54,6 now. Will see what happens . Have a bad vibe about the Charger , since the wrong LED turns from red to green. Test drive yesterdy and my issue with the hight speed solved as well . Easy 38 km/h now ( first test ride only 33)
  21. 1 point
    Here is the setup manual for the new SONDORS LCD - According to Storm this is the new model for all bikes shipping from now on. Users Manual-KD51C-KDS.pdf (you need to be logged in to access this file) Got the old LCD display? Check out this topic:
  22. 1 point
    Banana Fender Set shown. The front fender has been trimmed a little bit. --
  23. 1 point
    Update: Today I received my new LCD screen for the Thin 7 aluminum. It was free and shipped free (as it should have been) and works perfectly. The problem is there was design changes in the LCD itself as well as the software, I was originally shipped an older model LCD and they didn't even ask for it back. I contacted Sondors about the problems on December 7 on the Sondors website little corner messenger thingy, (all contact took place this way or through my corresponding email threads) they gave me a check list to follow to make sure everything was correctly setup on the bike but after still having the issues I fired off a few messages and email responses. I was contacted by Red Nakamura, Paul Navaluna and Marcia from customer support. Over all they were responsive and it worked out well for me. If anyone needs this B2222 36v LCD hit me up!
  24. 1 point
    Matt, We order the bikes and LCD together, but they shipped seperately, like 2-3 weeks apart
  25. 1 point
    Reddy - that’s a pretty sexy set-up you have there. I think i am going to go that route.
  26. 1 point
    European version with 250W motor. 17Ah Battery

    © sondorsforum.com

  27. 1 point
    I also found the Axiom Flatliner to be the best choice and value (that skinny $80, Rad Rover rack would not support the loads I carry) and I've modified the Axiom by widening it (3/8") to fit one of my two 52v Batteries, underneath the solid platform I've added. I use two different rear panniers sets depending on the mission but not the tail trunk that I wouldn't want to try and swing a leg over nor add weight that high to the CG, all the time. I do use these, with a built in top trunk (that will hold Pizzas), on grocery store runs with twice the volume, Or my Ibera panniers which allow all my tools, smart charger, bungies and other necessities in the small lower compartments. I use the small pack under the Stem for an extra tube and my Luna ePump.I bought two of these for the price of a single hand pump. https://lunacycle.com/luna-e-pump/ Happy Holidays Reddy
  28. 1 point
    Myself personally I use Axiom Fatliner racks both on the front and the rear. I've found them to offer the best fit to panniers and bags - I'm not a fan of the snap-on monster trunks that a lot of people use and instead prefer to use traditional panniers, of which I have a few sets - I use my ebikes (more than one and just one is a Sondors) as auto replacements so cargo duties are included. The Axiom rack is the best option for accepting a variety of panniers. Actually the best option is the Blackburn Outpost rack for front and rear but the Axioms do the same job for half the cost. As for lights, I have made a conscious decision to NOT have them integrated into the main battery system. I commute daily about 15 miles in each direction. Its dark in the morning when I leave, and its dark on the way home (I use my lights regardless for safety). Using quality rechargeable lights means fewer wires floating around the bike, and a few less places where something can go wrong and disable the bike - independent systems improve reliability. Also and perhaps more importantly, lights are a commodity item that are constantly improving in quality and capability. Imagine buying a bike a few years ago and being tied to halogen beams. If one or more of my lights go down, I am a 2-day Amazon Prime shipment away from a replacement. I just looked at the Rad site and they sell no light replacements. I use two Niterider Lumina 700's up front, spaced as far apart as I can put them, and a pair of ProVision 120 lumen lights - one on each rack stay - in the rear. The Provisions are so inexpensive I buy a set for each bike (I tried the Blitzu Cyborg 180 lumen light and its good but I wouldn't buy another... the ProVisions are too good themselves and there are benefits to standardizing parts across bicycles). As for the Luminas, I just buy another pair of mounts when I build another bike and switch the lights to the bike I am riding. Luminas are a steal right now at the various end of year sales going on. At least half off. They are waterproof, completely self contained, and make a perfect hand held flashlight off the bike.
  29. 1 point
    Hi All....Merry Christmas! We received one X7 on 12/12/17 Charcoal/Blue and the other one Silver/Silver on 12/14/17. I ordered them September 1st 2017. We just received the NEW version of the LCD's today 12/23/17. Version A11111. I included some images of the screens There is a Walk button at the back of the LCD control switch. Be prepared, it takes off at about 3.5 MPH. The bikes are awesome. We are thrilled with the bikes. Fun fun fun! I swapped out the stock 4.9" mudders on my wife's X7 for Maxxis 2.5 Hookworms along with the tubes due to my wife's height.(5'2"). The height with the Hookworms is PERFECT for anyone wondering if a 5'2" person can comfortably ride the Sondors X. She was afraid of the 4.9's (To high), with the 2.5's she didn't want to get off the bike! Things I did/added: All add-ons I found on Amazon. The disk brakes were WAY out of whack. I had to adjust them on both bikes. Maxxis 2.5 Hookworms with Maxxis DH Downhill 26x 2.5-2.7 tubes. Planet Bike Big Buck front and rear fenders. Mirrycle MTB Bar End mirrors. MaxMiles Bicycle Handlebar Extensions. TANSOREN 4000 Lumens Eagle Eye Ultra Bright Waterproof Bike Headlight with CREE XM-L2 LED Light (Battery mounted in battery box with velcro) Blackburn 2FER Front or Rear Bike Light. (3 for each bike) PRO Bicycle Chainstay Protector - Black/Carbon Black Carbon - PRAC0001. LYCAON Bicycle Bells. Ibera Bike Rack - Bicycle Touring Carrier Plus+ for Disc Brake Mount. Ibera PakRak Bicycle Quick-Release Commuter Trunk Bag
  30. 1 point
    I'd call it a downgrade. $1500 for a bike that has a 22a peak controller and a 48v 11ah battery. Yes the motor is 750w and thats good but not from a power standpoint. We already know the 350's are good to 1200w so a 750 or a 350 are going to have identical output and longevity if given the same power inputs up to a 52v battery. By contrast, Buy a basic Sondors Original. $499+185 = 684 starting price. Don't buy the suspension fork for the Sondors because bottom of the line spring suspension is garbage and both Sondors and Rad fit into this category. Now name your upgrade poison: Lets do 48v, 14ah battery $499 delivered 25a peak controller $65 delivered LCD Display $65 delivered black HIGO throttle $25 delivered. Thats an additional $654. $654+684=$1338. You now have a bike that exceeds the Rad in battery capacity and controller amperage (horsepower and torque) and you've saved somewhere around $150. More if Rad charges sales tax. Cheaper but no gears. How about a real fire breather? Same basic Sondors package, but this time 60v 17.3ah battery - $639. 60v capable 35A controller $129 60v capable LCD display $65 750w drop-in motor with gear cluster $257.50 1090.50+684=$1,775. You want gears? Add another $50 for shifter, derailleur and deraileur hanger. You want an upgrade? Thats a 40 mph bike for $250-300 more than a Rad. How about something in the middle: 589 - 17.5ah 52v LX52 battery (smaller than the 20.3ah so it fits without mods in the triangle case... another $10 and you can do 30 minutes work with a dremel and fit the bigger battery in) 65 - 25a peak controller 65 - LCD 25 - compatible throttle $744+684=1428. Still cheaper than a Rad and well in excess of its power output and battery capacity. You can mix and match anything above to make what you want. And you can do it piecemeal to suit your monthly play money budget. There's a reason you don't hear of many Sondors owners upgrading to a Rad. EDIT: The numbers above don't touch on the fact you can sell your most valuable original asset: your battery - without any trouble on the Swap and Sell forum here or on the FB sell group. So the above costs will be offset by that if you care to put up an ad.
  31. 1 point
    Hey Tom, I absolutly think the lights on the helmet, are necessary, if you ride in traffic. As I've posted before, it's not the guy right behind you that can't see you....it's the guy behind him. The light helps increase the visibility thru the windows of the first to the second driver. In more than a few local incidents here, that might have saved some injuries and at least one club member's life. Happy Holidays Reddy
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    I bought that rack at Canadian Tire . . . http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/everyday-alloy-bike-seat-rack-0730930p.html#srp
  34. 1 point
    So, my Fold is ready for fun now. Since Monday i have attached Light (B&M, 36 V in front and 6 V back), Power direct from the battery. Fenders https://urbandrivestyle.com/collections/accessories/products/unimoke-fenders Rear rack from Ibera
  35. 1 point
    Brake light system I completed my prototype brake light system a few weeks ago and just made a quick video demonstrating it. I'm curious if others would be interested in a polished version of this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWdGi-8JsaI I'm using real Higo connectors so it is plug and play into the brake wires without modification. My prototype uses a separate 12v converter (I will also be powering a horn) but I will design it to be powered directly from any battery 30-60v. The tail light has a solid low light with occasional blink when powered, and goes to full brightness when either brake handle is pulled. I made my own light and bracket from bright waterproof LED strips, but I would probably bundle this with a real reflector light made for automotive use. Would anyone have an interest in this if I were to design a board and make a dozen or two of these? Any opinions or changes? Also, I tapped into the battery wires, I'm not sure I can make the battery plug and play because I believe the connector is different depending on fat or thin or 3rd party batteries, can someone confirm that? Or I could make a plug & play Y adapter for fat.
  36. 1 point
    Bushkey, this is what happens when you manufacture an ebike that actually tries to fit in under the power restriction laws. Very likely lawyers were involved who pointed out that speed laws do not expressly provide for electronically limiting wattage and - in the case of the KT controllers our bikes use, that limitation is imprecise at best. The beauty of the Sondors platform is you can go out and replace one more or less commonly available controller with another and more or less invisibly solve the regulatory issue. The Sondors controllers are 7a continuous, 15 amps max ... which is not robust as you have noticed. However, using nominal voltage on the 48v battery, 48v x 15 amps = 720 watts of final output. The US federally-mandated limit is "less than 750 watts" (not "750 watts" as commonly stated). The Rad-branded bikes, on the other hand, use the lower, 'continuous' rating on their controllers to do their math. Thats not going to fly if the government ever actually starts enforcing power limits, which apparently is becoming more likely; hence Sondors' conservative approach in 2017. Sondors is giving you the platform at a dramatic discount. Its an open platform that for another $65 or so will let you nearly double its final output. The best controller is up to you. You can go 20a or 25a. They are all made by the same manufacturer, just some have different guts and wiring connections. If I were you I'd follow Biknut's lead as these days the 25a controllers originally designated as 'Thin-compatible' are now compatible with all Sondors models. Sierra EBike's 'triangle-compatible' controllers have slightly different wire lengths but those are the ones you want. When you can get them in stock. Mine already shipped :-) And don't forget that, for a Fold, you also want to buy an LCD cable extension (green HIGO) and a PAS cable extension (yellow HIGO). Both are cheap and you can just barely live without them... but why suffer?
  37. 1 point
    Moving right along, after installing both tires yesterday evening, and a new freewheel, I stayed up until 4:30 in the morning installing this fender.
  38. 1 point
    I think you should add another REI guard on the other side, paint the green, matching Sondors yellow, and tell everybody they're Training Wheels. ))
  39. 1 point
    Both of my fenders are from Electra bicycles. The front is a Stubby. The rear is from a Electra full cruiser fender set, which I shortened. All the mounting hardware has to be customized to install them. http://brandscycle.com/product/electra-cruiser-stubby-fenders-76459-1.htm
  40. 1 point
    I went a different way on the fenders. While I do like the look of the traditional fenders, I’m nowhere near a fan of what happens when you have close-fitting fenders on a bike you ride a lot. Between the sound of what happens when gunk releases off the tires and smooshes around in that narrow space before its finally ejected, and the inevitable alignment issues that come from life, that kind of fender is not something I would use ever again (been there done that). Instead I went with mud/splash guards. Different operating principle in that they let water and mud get flung off… they just keep it from hitting anything that matters. I used a combination of four separate fenders, my saddlebags and bit of gorilla tape. Two fenders and the saddlebags do the vast majority of the work. Here’s a pic of the bike with everything installed. Starting at the back, see the thing sticking straight out from the rack? That is an SKS Mud-X downtube fender that I think cost me about $7 on Amazon. I discarded the rubber tube straps and instead used some zip ties to anchor it to the end of the rack. I actually took the above pic before my Sondors had even arrived. The first pic above was taken earlier today... Its still on there solid. This fender keeps spray from being flung up and back towards my back, along with the natural protection I get from the saddlebags themselves. The other key piece is the downtube fender. This is a Mucky Nutz Fat Body Fender. Another Amazon purchase. It catches almost all of the spray kicked up by the front wheel. Its lower strap is hiked up against the lower bottle boss (used for the battery carrier on this bike) which keeps it from slipping down. That fat body fender misses a little spray coming up and forward off the front tire, which can hit the underside of the LCD, brakes and my face. That is handled by the front wheel guard, which is a T’aint Muddy Hard Egghead. Purchased at (wait for it) … Amazon. Whats left? The rear wheel rolling forward still flings some water onto the seatpost from the top of the seat bag all the way down to the bottom bracket. Wets down my calves, ankles and a little of the battery box. That is solved by the Mucky Nutz Fat Face Fender (3 guesses where I bought it). Its a front fender that does a better job in the back. I have also extended it by a little over an inch with some nicely strong gorilla tape, which is on in a couple of layers front and back. To actually seal up the top rear, I extended the back of the fender - also with gorilla tape - so it attaches to the rack and creates a complete, flexible shield. If you look at the ads for these products, you'll see they all have obnoxious logos plastered all over them. I used a sharpie to black out the SKS mud flap. Got a little more sophisticated with the body fender and used some Valspar chalkboard black rattle can paint I had in the garage. Then I wised up and for the last two I just turned them over and let the logos face the tire where nobody can see them. All told, I am out about US$50 and my battery box interior stays dry and its exterior is splash free. During the recent torrential rains we experienced over the last week or so, I had no issues with water (your mileage may vary).
  41. 1 point
    @Fuzzy Bruce i am also a new Sondoristi (since a month) Pictures often say more than words, and my school English is already 30 years ago Greetings from Germany
  42. 1 point
    Sorry to hear about your crash. A similar thing happened to my best friend. He was riding his new eBike and trying to go up a driveway that had a tall entry and his tire caught the tall edge and flipped him off the bike and he ended up with about 2 lbs of hardware in his shattered elbow. I think he was about 65 at the time so it was pretty traumatic, not to mention painful. Took a long time for him to recover. About that shifter project that I am (sorta ) working on. I finally got all of the parts assembled but due to my home remodeling project from hell, I have spent most of the summer working to get my living space in order. I haven't had the time or the working space to proceed with any of my other projects including my 3 speed upgrade. As a mater of fact I haven't been able to ride my bike all summer. Almos every square foot of my house is either "in construction" or is filled up with building materials. Also my workshop entry is almost completely blocked by my dead van and until I can get the new transmission installed I can't get into my shop to work. I hope to get that problem taken care of this week. As soon as I get a working shifter finished I will let you know. I would be happy to put one together for you. The whole mechanism is actually pretty simple and could be installed in about an hour or less. The only thing you need to do to your existing installation is to remove the spring from your derailleur and attach the new shifter cable from the controller and attach the shift switch to the handlebars. The controller servo doesn't need the heavy spring on the derailleur to shift the gears down as the servo holds the derailleur in the correct position for the selected cog. Total cost of the whole assembly is $3 for the arduino tiny cpu, $12 for the stepper motor, $5 for the stepper controller and some wire and a few misc parts plus a short cable and sheath plus a small project box to put the whole thing in. Since the whole controller runs on 3.5-6v. I might run it off of a separate Li-Ion battery, just to keep things simple. The controller should run for weeks on a single charge since it only runs when you shift. I think I'll use a toggle switch to shift. Push it up to shift up and down to shift down. About as easy as it gets. I could make it auto shift by sensing the current draw from the battery and have it down shift when it senses a need for more power but I will have to work out the specifics when I get one working. It is relatively easy to upgrade the programming with a usb cable and a PC so you could upgrade the controller software as I come up with new tweaks. The great thing about the controller is that we are all using the same 3 cog freewheel so you won't need to tweak the programming to fit your cog spacing. It's easy to reprogram the controller for any cog set but it requires you to hook it up to a computer and tweak the stepper motor settings to tune the cog spacing and number of gears to shift. The controller could be programmed for any spacing and number of cogs if you wanted to change over to a 5 speed. I will post detailed instructions about the build and programming soon. Also, this is going to be an open source project so I'm hoping that I will get some interesting feedback from other builders. There are a lot of smart and resourceful people on this blog. I'll try to get some work done on it as soon as I can. Maybe this week. At the least I will post some pictures of my parts so you can see what I have in mind. Get well and I'll see if I can get you a working model before you start fixing up your bike. MisterFixIt1952
  43. 1 point
    Okay, just finished my Aluminum Frame Sondors 3-speed conversion using the following parts list... 1 - Shimano Tourney FT35 6/7-Speed Rear Derailleur w/Hanger - $12.54 & FREE Shipping 1 - SRAM I-Motion 3 Shifter with Connector - $10.00 + $6.90 shipping (I got free shipping on my order) 1 - KMC Z410 Bicycle Chain (1-Speed, 1/2 x 1/8-Inch, 112L) - $8.68 PRIME 1 - uxcell® Bicycle Metal 3 Speed Threaded Scooter Sprocket Freewheel Repair Part - $12.14 & FREE Shipping 2 - 12 mm washers I had at home 8 - (5 white/3 black) Zip ties I had at home Using the following tools, that I already had. Allen wrenches that came with the Sondors e-bike (for brake adjustment, handle bar grip, throttle, brake lever, and shifter) Hammer & Awl (for removing the freewheel cover and breaking the bike chain) (Or buy a chain breaker) 3/8 to 1/2 inch socket wrench socket (for breaking the bike chain) or you can use a piece of wood with a hole drilled into it. (Or buy a chain breaker) Pipe wrench (for removing the freewheel mount) 18mm wrench (for removing and installing the wheel) 10mm wrench (for removing and installing the chain tensioner on the rear wheel) Metal saw with fine blade (for cutting handle bar grip and shifter cable sheath) Diagonal pliers, snips, or dikes (for trimming the zip-ties) Phillips head screwdriver (for adjusting the derailleur) Total cost was under $45.00 in parts. Using the valuable instructions on this thread. (THANKS GUYS!!!), I did the following steps in under 2 hours... Put the Shifter on the right handle bar Using an allen wrench, loosen the two bolts in the metal brackets on the right handle bar grip. Then pull the right handle bar grip off the handle bars, clamp it in a vise, and using a fine tooth metal saw, saw about 2 inches off (8 columns of nubs) Using an allen wrench, loosen the mounts for the throttle and the brake lever and slide them BOTH off the handlebar Put the thottle back on, then the brake lever, then the shifter, then the rest of the right handle bar grip. Make sure the cable runs are okay, and then using an allen wrench tighten all of the mounting screws down. Replace the freewheel Put a towel/mat down to put the upside down bike on. (Don't mar the frame/handlebars/buttons) Unplug the motor plug that runs along the bottom of the rear frame. Take off both protective boots. Photograph BEFORE nut/washer/tensioner/frame/spacer/wheel pictures on both sides of the rear wheel. (It's a good habit, when doing projects) Using an allen wrench, release the tension of the rear brake wire. Using the 10mm wrench, release the chain tensioner bolt connector to the washer that runs to the back of the frame. Using the 18mm wrench, remove the axle nuts and washers and chain tensioner on both sides. Take another picture of the orientation of the inner notched washer on both sides. (Trust me it's easier this way) Un-hook the chain and let hang on the frame, using a towel or cloth to prevent the chain from messing up the frame. Remove the rear wheel and place carefully with cable side UP. Using a hammer and awl, remove the old bike chain. Using a hammer and awl, tap the retaining ring for the single speed freewheel CLOCKWISE. Once the retaining ring is loose, remove the ring by hand, and then lift up the freewheel, catching the loose ball bearings with a magnet. Remove all the other rings, teeth, and then using a pipe wrench and hammer, tap the freewheel mount COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to loosen. Once the freewheel mount is spinning, remove it by hand. Put the 3-speed freewheel on by hand, and hand tighten (no need to crank it down, peddling will do this) Put both the extra 12mm washers onto the axle next to the new 3-speed flywheel. Put on both notched washers the same way as you took the pictures before. Put the wheel back on the bike. Using your fingers, put on the non-chainside nut/washer/tensioner and leave loose. Mount the derailleur and adjust Put the derailleur onto the axle, adjusting the notched nut to be on the inside of the frame. Using the Phillips head screwdriver, tighten the screw holding the notched nut on the derailleur. Using your fingers, put on the nut/washer (LEAVE OFF THE TENSIONER!) on to the axle. Using the Phillips head screwdriver, adjust the H screw of the derailleur, so it sort of is in line with the smallest/outer gear. (we will fine tune later) Run the new bike chain through the derailleur, around the freewheel, and back over the crank, and clip in the master link. (or if you have a chain breaker use this to re attach the chain) Using the 18mm wrench and the 10mm wrench, tighten the bolts holding the wheel in place, and re-connect the rear brake. (You should be able to turn the crank and the wheel should turn. Now it's time to make the shifting work!) Take the shifter and using the 10mm wrench, un-do the nut on the cable end connector and remove the bracket. Pull about 16-18 inches of the inner cable wire through to the shifter handle section, take off the little black nub on the end of the cable sheath, and trim about 6 inches off the cable sheath with the metal saw. Put the black nub back on the end of the cable sheath and thread the inner cable wire back through the cable sheath. Run the shifter cable along the frame and down to the derailleur, don't zip tie it yet. Thread the wire end of the shifter cable through the derailleur cable mount, threading the holes and guides to the bracket. Make sure your shifter is turned to 1 (the lowest gear) Using the 10mm wrench, loosen the bracket nut, thread the shifter wire through the gap, making sure the shifter wire is tight and all the cable sheaths are mounted well, and then tighten the bracket nut. Turn the crank and shift through the gears, making sure that 1 is the small gear and 3 is the biggest gear. (If not then adjust in next step) Using the Phillips head screwdriver, adjust the derailleur so it doesn't jump the chain off the gears and shifts smoothly. Zip tie down the shifter cable against the frame and use the Diagonal pliers, snips, or dikes to cleanly trim the zip-ties. Take it for a test spin! Using the Phillips head screwdriver, more finely tune the derailleur. (if needed) You're done! Enjoy your new hill climbing ability! Scott PS> Other tweaks that I've done to my bike... InterLock hidden inside the seat post bicycle lock - $50.99 25 Amp controller upgrade - $59.98 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China) LCD Control panel - $48.98 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China) 20W LED headlight - $39.99 with free 15-25 day shipping (from China)
  44. 1 point
    The above mentioned Ibera PakRack fits perfectly with no extra hardware needed. I do suggest some Locktite and possibly adding your own lock washers, just to be safe. It's surprisingly light at just over 760g, feels like nothing at all. Installing requires loosening up of the front hardware, and adding on the short extenders to the first notch (C1). Then just put all the bolts into the frame, adjust lightly and tighten and viola!
  45. 1 point
    Rack: Ibera PakRack Touring Carrier Plus http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T5OG5Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 Ibera PakRack QuickRelease Trunk Bag that fits the above rack: http://www.amazon.com/Ibera-PakRak-Bicycle-Quick-Release-Commuter/dp/B002T5MZ70/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0PYHT5EJEZ0JYYWF45BK
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