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Showing most liked content since 10/17/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Now that's innovation, luv it. I also have a Bottle Cap Helmet for Fall riding and a dual visored Chinese Aviators Helmet for winter...but both seasons have been really mild here in North Central Texas, the last several years, thanks to climate change. We have had several high temperatures broken this month already and it was 94° on the 5th. None the less, the cooling temps are a welcome change from Summer. And this half face mask for really cold mornings. Reddy
  2. 2 points
    I couldn't find any pictures of the inside of the Sondors Triangle Battery case, so I thought I'd post some pictures here. I'd really like to keep this case because it looks nice and fits into the bike case nicely, plus it has a lock, so I'm trying to determine if I can just upgrade the pack inside the case. There is a bunch of empty spots, so this has room to be a bigger, more powerful pack, which is probably how they do the stock 48V packs.
  3. 2 points
    I just bought another sondors original fat today...got it super cheap cause the battery was dead, I mean like 1.4v total at terminals on bottom of battery. So I tried this.... 1. LED stayed green on the charger...yes it was putting out 41v still nothing at the battery 2. The BMS won’t let the charger feed the batteries due to low voltage. 3. This is where the magic happens. Remove the LED status indicator top off the battery, pull up the cap and you’ll see 2 small wires 1 red and 1 black going to the status light, cut and strip wires ( be sure make it clean you’ll be resoldering these) strip each wire back enough to attach alligator clips to each lead. Now hook those wire up to your charger( I used back probe leads and clips, just make sure you no sparky) you’re now bypassing the BMS and can safely feed power to the cells. set a timer for 1hr, test the terminals for the voltage, with in 1 hour you should see 34-36v. Now test the normal charge port on the battery, should now turn red and start a normal charge cycle. I see a lot of people having the same issues and thinking they need a new battery..18650 cells are pretty tough and should just go bad sitting around. This particular battery wasn’t used for 10 months and now is back to full power. Just thought I’d share my 2 cents!
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    Thanks for the response but I got it working now. I followed the directions from this http://www.velomobileshop.com/pages/how-to-program-the-kt-lcd3 I believe it is C4 setting to 3 is what did it and now my throttle works with PAS on 0. We have two bikes one bike with an original Sondors lcd and Sondors controller and the other with the generic lcd and controller from Velmobileshop and they both work the same except the generic lcd and controller lets more watts go to the motor
  6. 1 point
    so after the temps have dropped here in Idaho I started wearing my full face mask and remembered why I hated it... foggy glasses and lens. so instead of going and buying a $300 Ruroc helmet I really want... I purchased a snorkel mouth peace and used a "airborn" medication tube and Boom... no more foggy glasses.... oh and I wanted to share my new setup for my lights. I really like having them up front like this makes it more like a motorcycle .
  7. 1 point
    Managed to get in the garage and unplug.
  8. 1 point
    So today I needed to bring the family truck to my brother so I loaded up my Thin7 and drove over. Let my brother try my gold beauty and started my ride home at half battery power (36v larger capacity). Was doing great until my chain kept shifting from 7th to 6th gear back and forth.... then it happened.... my chain broke with 2 miles left and one bar on my battery. Being the environmental conscious person I am, I let the chain hang off both sprockets so I could recycle it once I was home. I am impressed to say after ridding on pedal assist 5 for all the ride I was still able to throttle home with my battery still left with 34v remaining. Total distance 8.52 miles time 32 minutes and still had a blast
  9. 1 point
    Squeaky Seal.....you can hear those during nursery season in the Artic. )) Glad you found it. Reddy
  10. 1 point
    Has anyone received any notices yet? I am part of the group that was promised delivery updates on Oct 22 but have not received any updates on the two FOLD 7 X ordered on Aug 18. The anticipation is killing me!! Edit: Just had a chat with Ana from SONDORS online support. I really appreciated the prompt response from Ana. She said that my sondors have already been delivered and should be shipping out tomorrow. I'll provide updates...
  11. 1 point
    Front and rear racks and fenders for FOLD X Can someone please recommend racks and fenders for the FOLD X? I like to get both front and rear ones. Will parts from the RadMini fit the FOLD X?
  12. 1 point
    Looks like 18650 cells in there. https://www.imrbatteries.com/sanyo-ncr18650ga-3500mah-10a-flat-top-battery/ Thanks for sharing info.
  13. 1 point
    Hey @Arnold, I don't own a Fold and this solution may not work on the Fold's bar but I prefer the LCD centered on the stem and if it can't be mounted there on a Fold, because of some folding lever or mechanism or it you've installed a monkey bar, this extension or any of the other options to mount the LCD centered on a seperatly mount may help. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Fiber-Computer-Light-Mount-31-8-25-4-26-0-Bar-Handlebar-Extra-Space-/301631983262 Reddy
  14. 1 point
    Here are photos before and after. The results are acceptable and cost was $0. I would still like a one inch longer brake lever.
  15. 1 point
    i ended up buying the throttle from Aliexpress. hopefully that does the trick. thanks for the help btw
  16. 1 point
    Thanks for the assurance. It's our first fat bike.
  17. 1 point
    Fat tires require low pressure. 20 psi may seem really low but its in fact rather high for the platform. Fat tire bikes were designed to operate at really low pressures and you can easily go to 15 and gain some shock absorption with little or no penalty to range (but feel free to experiment). Believe it or not you can go VERY low with surprisingly good results.
  18. 1 point
    This is true of any bar with a lot of gadgets on it, but ebikes in particular have the problem. Rearrange the stuff on the bar so the levers are right next to the grip. Or rearrange in some other way so you strike a balance between reach to levers and shifters, control panels etc. Try and prioritize so a reach may be acceptable if what you are reaching for is needed infrequently.
  19. 1 point
    I moved the thumb throttle to the left side and was able to shift the right handbrake about an inch to the right and I am now able to grasp the right brake lever with four fingers instead of two. A longer brake lever would be a nice mod.
  20. 1 point
    @Alcom18, welcome to the Sondors Owners Forum, enjoy your stay. No such generator or solar option, for recharging as we ride, exists for the high capacity li-ion batteries we use. You can learn about the batteries we use in our bikes by reading here: https://www.electricbike.com/introduction-lithium-18650-batteries/ You can find throttle options here. https://sierraebike.com/products/throttles Along with battery and controller options at both: https://sierraebike.com/collections https://lunacycle.com/sondors-upgrades/ https://lunacycle.com/18650-ebike-battery-pack/ A lot of your questions can be answered by reviewing this forum in depth. Reddy
  21. 1 point
    The red cells are Sanyo GA which are made from Panasonic. They are the high capacity 3500mAh cells.
  22. 1 point
    Nice work. The BMS is usually the culprit on these and I have not until now seen instructions on how to get past it and force a charge in. Similar practice for re-igniting a car battery... today's smart chargers won't do it so you have to have an old-school charger in the garage and hook that up until you force feed juice in the battery to fool the modern smart charger into getting off its butt and doing its job. At that point the smart part of that charger will take over and it will bring that battery back to life.
  23. 1 point
    Actually, the blue one's aren't batteries. They are just standoffs for internal frame. I inspected them and they aren't connected to anything. There's actually a ton of open slots, even in the area where the red batteries are. I can take it apart again and verify what type the red batteries are.
  24. 1 point
    Thanks very much for this look inside. You're right this hasn't been documented publicly before. Two different types of cells in that pack? Seems like you would have to do a whole lot of dremel work to preserve that case and increase the cell count.
  25. 1 point
    Thank you both for responding. Sondors did send a auto-response indicating someone would be in touch and in fact I received a emai 24 hours later asking I send a video of the LCD malfunction which I did. After reviewing the video Sondors was quick to notify they were sending a new LCD. They want the original returned so they can troubleshoot. I will post an interesting update once I receive the replacement. I’ll try to attach the video so you can see the problem. 84EDCDF1-A86F-4C12-BA2E-37F3B7915A2E.MOVffff
  26. 1 point
    I usually buy 2, and I never need the second one, but if you don't buy an extra you probably will.
  27. 1 point
    I had high expectations of my Thin 7s (for my wife and I) and bought all the upgrades. After about 50 miles in the last two weeks riding in my very hilly neighborhood, (and nearby hilly neighborhoods) I must say that my expectations have been exceeded. My wife was initially skeptical about spending a couple grand on ebikes, but she really enjoys the benefits of a motor. I have encouraged some "serious" road biking friends to try them out and without exception they return with broad smiles. Some of my male friends want to by a Thin for their wives so they can accompany them on their road bike trips. People are amazed when I tell them my "decked out" bike only cost $899. (Okay, shipping WAS crazy expensive...) I can't think of anything I dislike about the bikes other than the brakes being a little noisy. I haven't had any problem, however, with the stopping power of the mechanical discs. Really cool bikes. The riding season in the midwest is coming to a close, but I look forward to riding adventures next Spring!
  28. 1 point
    Hey man! Nope, seating the tire beads went flawlessly. The only issue I had was that they seemed to not sit propperly in the rims, but after inflating the wheels to the appropriate amount of pressure, the beads alligned propperly. Yeah it was about time to make riding more comfortable. I hope I'll find some time to put the new stuff to my bike, but I have a shitload of work to do (all hail self-employment) and not much sparevtime lately. I've also thought about replacing the quick-release clamp with a fixed one. I will probably never need to detach the seatpost after I got it adjusted propperly. So > thanks for the useful links!
  29. 1 point
    Thanks to all of you for the great info! I will spend some time going through the threads you have suggested. So many great options and builds! Can't wait to start upgrading!
  30. 1 point
    A new option exists for 2x750 builders: https://e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/en/adapter-and-y-adapter-en/higo-3y-y-adapter This could take the place of the custom Y adapters for splitting PAS signals to 2 motors I had built above. That allows you to buy simple Bafang/yellow HIGO extension cables and just plug them into this doodad. Especially true now that a 3rd shortie length (5cm) extension is now readily available on Aliexpress. Arguably, doing a cable is more precise. Assuming you get the cable length right (I didn't and had to supplement with an extension). Cost for this adapter at 20,59 € is roughly the same as a cable. Maybe a Euro or two cheaper. Also from the same source is this wonderful gadget: https://e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/en/adapter-and-y-adapter-en/adapter-higo-s3-b2-a Whats that? It allows you to connect a Magura MT5e brake caliper to a BBSHD mid drive motor. Something I plan to use for my next 2WD project, which looks more and more like a 1600w BBSHD on the rear, and a Bafang 750w on the front. With this sandwiched somewhere in between:
  31. 1 point
    Welcome back :-) I just saw the pics you posted at the end of Stage 1. Dang those 100mm rims coupled to fat tires just make the tire profile incredible. I think with my next bike build I am going to go that route. Did you have any issues getting the tire beads to seat on the rims? As to Phase 2, I chose that exact seat for my cargo bike: Frankenbike, which at least initially was made up entirely of the parts from my Sondors left over after upgrading. I had enough to make a whole bike so I did. I also chose a suspension seatpost, as you did, although I chose a Thudbuster ST in the 27.2 XL size, which gives me a 400mm length. Between that seat and a suspension post I really liked the ride comfort, as you will I am sure. I think you are going to be very happy with your choice. That seat is comfortable and sturdy (pssst... its plastic not leather although it feels nice). I did however recently change to a Selle Royal Drifter Plus gel saddle. that saddle is quite a bit softer both from its gel and from its softer spring rate. I'm reasonably sure I like it. Reasonably. I am keeping the original seat in case I decide to switch back. Something more for you to consider: That saddle is inexpensive but the seatpost is not. Two things you can do to maybe make it a bit tougher to steal. 1. I don't need a quick-release clamp. I have purchased Thomsen seatpost clamps in the past and they are VERY nice, but also expensive. I purchased an Axiom Trekk seatpost collar for about 1/3 the cost of a Thomsen. It works perfectly well. I do not use the stays for the rack, but I do put 5mm hex bolts in them... possible roadside spares in a future mishap. http://a.co/0v2eWBg 2. Use a seat leash. Here's the link: http://a.co/3sdKvoG . I am providing the link right off because I posted a review there with pics that include installation instructions. Its second from the top, and the yellow bike in the pics is Frankenbike. You'll recognize the saddle in the pics.
  32. 1 point
    Thanks, Dave! After installing the LCD on the X and going into the settings, I found that the wheel size was already set to 29"! So much for the sticker on the LCD box that reads "Sondors Fold X LCD". I guess the takeaway is that when you receive your LCD, be sure to verify all of the settings. I changed C1 from 02 to 01 (normal pedal start sensitivity), C4 from 0 to 3 (to enable throttle at PAS 0), C5 from 00 to 06 (probably bump that to 10 after a while), C6 from 3 to 5 (like my LCD bright), and C7 from 0 to 1 (enable cruise control). Now having the LCD, it feels more to me like my Sondors has arrived! Huge difference in performance and I can monitor battery state! Here's what she looks like now with the LCD, Ibera rack, PDW splash guards, and L&M Urban 500 Commuter Combo front and rear lights. Just need to change out the saddle for one of my others (probably the Brooks).
  33. 1 point
    Sorry the article was written for Li-Ion battery users to gain an understanding of their batteries. There are many posts, here on the forum, about this topic. You might try the search function, that's on every page, to find the exact criteria you're looking for. Of course, the charger that came with your bike is a simple charger that charges to about 100%. It's a lot more complicated than your synopsis to use it to charge to whatever value you desire. If you want an advanced charger, to charge at multiple rates and percentages, I can suggest a few resources; first the Satiator ; http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/cycle-satiator.html or the Luna Advanced Charger: https://lunacycle.com/batteries/chargers/ Pick the voltage and price point that you'd like. It's quite possible to use the stock charger, a multimeter, timer and battery voltage percentage chart and achieve what ever charge perameter you wish, but will require a basic understanding of the article I posted. And, here is the percentage chart for the 48v battery. It's the process I use and after a while you can use the LCD end voltage displayed, from your last ride as a starting point, then charge the guesstimated time gained from experience and check during the process with the LCD and stop when you get at the % you want...but you will not be able to maximize battery life by charging at 1amp. Reddy
  34. 1 point
    Posted this several times as a link but here is the Long not the short of it. "How to make a lithium battery last, or…kill it, if you like. We have written in the past about tips that will help your expensive lithium battery pack last as long as possible. This article will cover some additional information about what happens inside the chemistry of lithium-based batteries, like…why they die when they do, and how to avoid doing the wrong things as much as possible. _____________________________________________ Jeff Dahn, and why you should know who he is In our previous articles, we laid out some handy tips, like…keep the battery cool by charging at a lower rate, and also don’t charge to 100% all the time. However, we didn’t go into much of the details as to why. Up until now, most of it was because we read postings from people we respect, and heard about the “real world” experiences from riders who log a lot of miles on the their packs. Now? we found some info as to why the major players in the industry do the things listed below. Professor Jeff Dahn, in front of the precision testing equipment that helped unlock some of the details and reasons why lithium batteries eventually die. I stumbled across a video lecture by professor Jeff Dahn from the Dalhousie University in Nova Scotia, Canada. You may not have heard of him yet, but you probably heard about the electric car company Tesla. The Tesla car company has enjoyed a rate of success over the last few years that defies logic. Rather than introduce a light economy EV car, they first brought out a wildly successful sports car with an 8-year battery warranty. Then they produced a four-seater (also with high performance), and soon…they will be selling their least expensive model, which already has a back-log of orders. Their battery has high-performance AND an 8-year warranty, so…how’d they do that? and…whats the connection between Professor Dahn and Tesla? Dalhousie is the only research University in the world that has a contractual research relationship with Tesla’s battery department, and…Tesla could have partnered with any University they wanted. Professor Dahn can’t really talk about the secret sauce he’s working on right now, but…we can examine the video lecture he gave in 2013, which is about “How do Li-Ion batteries die, and how to improve the situation”…which might help us understand why his top student (Aaron Smith) is now the head of Tesla’s battery longevity program. _____________________________________________ The video lecture This lecture is an hour and 13 minutes, and I was so impressed by it, I transcribed the entire thing into text, just to make it easier to write this article. Of course the text doesn’t show the charts that were projected on the screen for the audience, so I also added the paragraph location times, so readers can go right to any part of the lecture that they might be curious about. If you want to actually watch the entire hour and 13 minute lecture, click on the center of the pic just below. If you want to skip the techno-babble, scroll down to the last few paragraphs of this article, and I will post the simple “plain English” tips there. _____________________________________________ Negative electrode (anode) plating Prof. Dahn starts out by mentioning that research has shown that the chemical reactions in the cells during charge and discharge result in a build-up of byproducts on the negative electrode (sometimes called “Anode”). One surprise was that…after a brutal cycling regime to purposefully make lithium cells go bad in the common ways that they die, the positive electrode (sometimes called the “Cathode”) appeared to be as fresh as a new cells’ cathode (when using the common additives, see below). This provided a more specific target to research…the “plating” on the anode. Why does it happen? and possible methods to reduce it as much as is possible. _____________________________________________ Temperature…HOT is BAD The first paragraph below shows that the bad chemical reactions are worse at higher temperatures, and the second paragraph details how a cell implanted in the human body (for a medical device) can last a very long time, which is partially explained by the human flesh around it acting as a heat-sponge to stabilize temps. This is an Infra-Red (IR) image of heat coming from a lithium cell-group that is being tested for max amp output. 63.5 C is also 146 F. We recommend that 140F is the highest temp a cell should EVER be allowed to reach. And, of course, a lower max temp is better for life-cycle length. Pic courtesy of ES member nuxland, from Estonia. _____________________________________________ Amount of TIME when hot is BAD _____________________________________________ Amount of TIME at HIGHER VOLTS is BAD _____________________________________________ “Secret Sauce ” additives _____________________________________________ Long term storage, use low volts at low temps _____________________________________________ Conclusion For long-term storage (over winter?) Drain your battery pack to 3.5V per cell, and store it in a cool area. Not necessarily a refrigerator (although that would actually be OK), but at the minimum…someplace that is NOT warm. You might not want to put it in a freezer, because it would have very bad voltage sag until the battery warms to room temperature. Also, definitely disconnect it from the controller, and also disconnect it from the charger. Avoid Heat Whether charging, or during a ride…avoid as much heat as possible in the battery. If you are drawing max amps often (in order to have max performance from a small and light battery?)…it may “work”, but…you will NOT be getting the maximum possible life-cycle from that pack, due to the resulting heat. There are two ways I know of that you can reduce heat in a battery pack system design. First, use a larger battery pack than you need. You might only “need” a very short amount of range on your particular commute, but a bigger pack will run cooler, since each cell is less stressed at a lower amp-draw per cell. The next way…is to specify a cell that has a higher amp-rating than you need. If you have a small battery pack that can provide your max amps needed (and it is also the biggest pack that will fit on your frame), but…it’s getting hot? You can buy a pack of the same physical size, but…with a higher amp-rated cell, and it would run cooler. The Tesla cars and the Chevy Volt both have an on-board battery pack cooling system to help stabilize pack temps at a reasonable level. Avoid Heat (Part 2) There are some days when you want to recharge your battery as fast as possible. For example, the Luna Advanced charger has the ability to charge at 5A, or…also at 3A. If you charge at 5A, the battery will charge faster, but…if you charge at the lower 3A rate, it will take longer, however…the 3A charging rate will also leave the battery pack less warm, and…the cooler the battery is, the better. The Grin Tech Satiator also has the ability to adjust the charging amp-rate. Don’t charge to 100% (4.20V per cell) The amount of extra charge you get from charging to 4.2V per cell, instead of 4.1V? it is very small, and has very little effect on your range. You may think that charging to 100% will give you the maximum range possible, but it trades a significant amount of pack life for a very small amount of extra range. The Luna Advanced charger, and also the Grin Tech Satiator both allow users to charge their packs to 80% (4.05V per cell), 90% (4.1V), and also 100% (4.2V). Here is a standard lithium cell discharge graph. I’m posting this here to show that there is very little range (the vertical lines, moving left to right) compared to the amount of voltage (the horizontal lines, moving from top to bottom) between 4.1V (90%) and 4.2V (100%). In fact, there is virtually ZERO extra range between 4.15V and 4.20V In the graph above, there are 17 graph squares (of range) between 4.2V and the cutoff at 3.3V. You only have to give up 1/17th of the charge to gain double or triple the battery pack life in months. I have not charged any of my ebike battery packs to 4.2V since I found this out. Also, If you ride only on the weekends, it would be more ideal to leave your pack half-empty during the week, and only charge it an hour or two before the ride. However, I know this is not practical. If you feel you need to charge the battery pack immediately after a ride, charge it to only 80%, and then let it cool off before you ride, or before you charge it more. Then, just before you want to ride, charge it up to 90% to get a little extra range. Of course, if your battery pack is large enough? you never NEED to charge it to more than 80%. Plus, if your ebike commute is short and you also have a large battery pack…don’t feel as if you need to charge the pack every day. If you can take several rides throughout the week, but only need to actually charge once a week? This would mean your pack is spending less time at the highest voltage [lead-acid batteries need to be topped off completely, and as often as possible…lithium does not] For long lithium battery life? big packs rule…and try to keep ’em cool. _____________________________________________ Dis-assembly of a Tesla 18650 Cell from Panasonic Here’s a one-minute video that I found very interesting. _____________________________________________ Long-Term Storage of Lithium Batteries Here is a great article by one of my favorite writers, Karl. He describes what you need to do when you decide to put your lithium batteries in long-term storage, in order to get the max life from them.(over winter?). If you don’t have a charger that has a partial-charge capability, he shows how to make a very cheap and easy battery discharger to get the pack down to a power level that is optimum." from Electricbike.com submitted by member Spinningmagnets. Reddy
  35. 1 point
    Here is what I'm running for now . . . scavenged off another bike in the garage. It won't hold as much weight as others, but at least I have somewhere to put the rear reflector. (The reflector kit included with my bike seems to be a generic off the shelf choice, with no regard to how it might fit (or not) on the bike).
  36. 1 point
    I saw someone with an Ibera Pakrak IB-RA5 on their Fold. Same rack so many use on the Originals. You need to lower it fully and use the disk brake spacers.
  37. 1 point
    This is a Planet Bike, Versa rack. Pretty easy to install, but I didn't follow the instructions because it's make to fit 26" bikes. To get it to fit this nice I sawed about 1" off the bottom of the main supports, and drilled 2 holes.
  38. 1 point
    Travelling with Fold X Ready for a road trip with my Fold X's!
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