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Showing most liked content since 06/25/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 likes
    Hello, I'll start this thread with some pictures and a short story of my first ride on the Banks-Vernonia State Trail. After my first test ride went so well, I packed the bike into the truck and drove to the Banks Trailhead. The first two miles of the trail are lined with Hungarian Blackberries and August is the month to harvest. I only rode one mile before stopping to pick several handfuls of this unexpected treat. At mile four the gentle grade starts to appear but nothing P-3 can't handle, this was a train track. Just before mile seven on the trail you reach the Buxton Trestle! And you can ride across! Here are two photos of the area near the Buxton Trailhead. I have never been on a trestle bridge before so it's fun and the railing is super sturdy so you feel safe. After the trestle the trail gets a little steeper and I was using more throttle and watching the battery level closely. When I came to this bench at mile 10.4 I sat in the sun and had a few grapes and water. The rack on the bike is the Ibera PakRack Touring. I started back at this point, in hide sight I should have kept going for another two miles as it is all downhill on the way back. On my next ride up this trail, I'll push it till the battery is at one bar and then turn around. I think that after getting my legs back in riding shape the whole 21 miles of trail could be done with the bike. I'll be back on this trail soon, another place I want to explore is the Columbia Gorge Historic Highway bike trails.
  2. 3 likes
    I know a few others have done a 3-speed upgrade to their Sondors. I am in the process of doing the same with mine. So I thought I'd share my journey here and hopefully get some good feedback and inspire others to do the same. This upgrade is inspired by @biknut and his amazing upgrades to his Sondors eBike. I'm still waiting on parts, but here are the items I am using: 3-Speed threaded freewheel cog with gearing that is similar to the stock rear cog: I believe a full standard rear 6-7 speed geared cog assembly works if you spread the frame, or remove some of the cogs and cut the shaft down. I am going to try this as a side project. The stock freewheel on my bike has I believe 16 teeth, and the above freewheel has 16/19/22 which, with the stock chainwheel, gives you a hill gear, a medium gear and then a "stock" higher speed gear. To change this, you will just need to replace the front chainwheel with something with the number of teeth to give you the ratio you want. I plan on changing mine so the middle gear is "stock" speed and there's a low end hill gear and then a higher speed gear eventually. Shifter: I'll be using just one of these two for my conversion. Derailleur: Note this derailleur is designed to mount directly to the rear wheel axel instead of the frame. The frame mounted kind would work but would complicate the install process. Chain: I went with a 5-speed chain to make sure I had plenty of length considering the cogs are pretty small in the rear. I am hoping it is long enough. If not I will get a 6-7 speed chain and then just remove some links to shorten it as needed. I am hoping whatever slack is there can be easily taken up by the derailleur. Shifter Cables: There are lots of these out there. You need to just make sure that they have the correct cable and housing size and that these match, and the end using the correct terminator. (the round piece on the end that connects to your shifter, I am not sure what this is called.) Optional: Zipties - I have a ton of these and they can be found at any hardware store or Amazon, etc. Freewheel removal tool - An awl or small screwdriver can also work, but the tool helps with the process. This of course depends on your freewheel and how tight it is based on how much you've ridden and how much pressure you've put on it. The stock freewheel has 2 dimples on the main body to be used as loosening leverage, I am not sure if it has the standard 2 lug slots, I need to check mine and take a photo and link to the right tool. But a good solid flathead screwdriver and a hammer should be able to loosen this up. I am expecting the first parts by next weekend and my first task will be to put the freewheel on and ride with just it. Then I can add the derailleur, shifter and cabling and adjust the derailleur to shift nice and smoothly.
  3. 3 likes
    Magura is a well-known German brake/accessory manufacturer. I saw a German rider post pictures of his bike with Magura MT5e brakes installed. these are 4-piston monsters that can use 4 independent pads per caliper. The levers are super-whiffy reach-adjustable numbers that are suitably, similarly high quality. I have yet to fully unlock the potential of my front 750 motor, but even running the throttle on just the rear 750 to make a light, I go from a cruise of 26 mph to 30. And stop lights being what they are, they love to turn yellow about half the time when I am going full tilt but too far away to make it. A bare pair of BB7 calipers from China are about US$44. Cheap and easy. And a good upgrade. But I hate half measures and its easy for me to see with my two motors, two batteries, rack, tools, panniers, lead foot and XL self I am exactly the guy who needs strong brakes. So... crap. I pulled the trigger on two axles worth of MT5e brakes. I'm starting this thread to document the job. I know cabled brakes of all sorts. No mysteries there. Hydraulics... Totally different story. So I'll be learning. First of all: Price. Go google these brakes and look at the price. Now forget that number and go to this web site: They ship worldwide so translate the site to your language and currency. THEN search on "Magura MT5e". A single MT5e brakeset will commonly run US$125 to US$175. That includes one axle worth of brakes: Caliper, cable and lever connected and pre-bled with fluid (you will need to resize the cable as the kits come with a generous 2200mm which is way more than you need). Holland Bike Shop will sell you this package for around US$80 (varies day to day given Euro-to-dollar exchange rates) and they will ship to the U.S. for US$39. It ends up being just under US$200 for a full set, delivered, minus rotors. I found a different deal. MT5e brakes and 2200mm of cable for US$124 from a U.S. seller with arrival to me next week. Identical kit from different sellers is going for US$217. There's only one left. Sorry. But you can always get about the same deal from the other sellers above. So what kind of cutoff connector do these brakes use? Gee that looks familiar :-) So single-motor bikes will need an extension cable. 2x750 builds will need a different Y splitter than I have at present (to keep things clean I am not going to plug an extension into my Y adapter but will do a different Y that splits off outside the battery box this time... live and learn). As such I will be ordering a different Y from And I guess selling off the set I have in case anyone is interested. My LBS can do the install for me, but I am going to give it a shot myself. Magura has some good videos on cable cutting and brake bleeding. I also have a bleeding kit on the way, and when I see exactly what cable fittings are int the package I'll decide what cable bits and tools to buy. More to come... EDIT: Follow the posts below and you will see that when this post was originally written, I had not committed to Magura rotors, which I eventually did. Read on to see why (short version - they are thicker and matched to the piston travel of these brakes). I will note here that the rotors to buy are the Magura Storm HC which are the maximum-duty version of rotor compatible with these brakes. Buy them with your order from Holland Bike Shop and save on shipping. Or buy them alone on EBay. Prices are about the same from either vendor.
  4. 2 likes
    Reddy. Great tip in the Cinch Straps. Just purchased them from your posted link. I almost lost me bike when it moved on the carrier. The straps should take care of business...Rob
  5. 2 likes
  6. 2 likes
    What I did was to take the brake lever and throttle off the handlebar and swap them around... Like this... Put the Shifter on the right handle bar Using an allen wrench, loosen the two bolts in the metal brackets on the right handle bar grip. Then pull the right handle bar grip off the handle bars, clamp it in a vise, and using a fine tooth metal saw, saw about 2 inches off (8 columns of nubs) Using an allen wrench, loosen the mounts for the throttle and the brake lever and slide them BOTH off the handlebar Put the thottle back on, then the brake lever, then the shifter, then the rest of the right handle bar grip. Make sure the cable runs are okay, and then using an allen wrench tighten all of the mounting screws down.
  7. 2 likes
    I'm cleaning this up here. There are two versions of the LCD: Aftermarket unbranded LCD - called: KT-LCD3 / Wendy LCD / Aftermarket LCD Display Branded LCD (looking the same like the aftermarket unbranded LCD but WITH Sondors logo on it see picture here: show picture) Please note, sondors sold to every version of the bike a lcd. they are not marked but different! Long story short: The first eBike from Sondors (distributed via the first Indiegogo campaign) is compatible with the KT-LCD3 Aftermarket LCD and the at that time distributed LCD from Sondors All other eBikes from Sondors (distributed via Kickstarter / / ARE NOT compatible with the aftermarket unbranded LCD. Only with in that time distributed LCD Display (branded with Sondors Logo) from SOONDORS. Please note: YOU CANNOT tell the difference between the branded Sondors LCD distributed with Sondors eBikes sold over Kickstarter and Sondors eBikes sold over - They look exactly the same but are not going to work on each other bike. (Kickstarter 'branded' Sondors LCD will not work with an bike from due to different communication protocols) This is due to a change in the communication protocol. Sondors did that to stop aftermarket sales (which were cheaper than the Sondors LCD itself (around 50$ I think). So if you have an Sondors eBike sold after the first campaign. You will need to buy Controller and the aftermarket unbranded LCD (both 100$ - will ship faster to your housedoor...) or you buy the corresponding Sondors branded LCD. (100$) If you have any questions, please ask ask ask. There are no dumb questions. We are here to help. Thanks and have a great day, Andi
  8. 2 likes
    So I finally got the freewheel spacer. As you can see, in the original build, the distance of the single speed freewheel to the motor casing (B1) is about 7-8 mm and the distance to the rear dropout (A1) is about 5 mm, aligning the freewheel in a straight line to the front chainring. As you can see in the closeup picture in my above post from June 25, the new freewheel was way to close to the motor casing and way to far away from the rear dropout, resulting in a misalignment. The new freewheel spacer did a good job here: It moved the freewheel away from the motor casing (B2) and positioned it at a similar distance to the rear dropout (A2) as in the original build. As soon as I get that other spacer with the wrench flats, I will exchange this one, because (like @MattRobertson said) I'd have 'fun times' trying to remove the actual spacer (if I ever need to remove it again). Next up would be the installation of the new wheels into the frame. I hope that I'll not encounter any more problems, because when installing the original front wheel in the process of unboxing the original bike, I realized that the front wheel had a slight misalignment, although everything was seated correctly in the front dropout. Back then, I feared that the front fork would have been bent somehow, so I had angled the front rim by turning the spokes a bit. Just a jury rig hot fix though...
  9. 2 likes
    This is the cover I bought in XL, parked front to back, side by side, it covers two bikes but I wish I'd bought the "L" to carry with, if there is the slightest chance of rain.
  10. 2 likes
    Happy Independence Day. ! Your first best defense against theft is securing your bike. The above insurance link says your bike will be covered if parked in a secure location. "THEFT COVERAGE: if your bike is stolen from your home, car, workplace or any other secure location, it’s covered". So beware, when your bike is in its most vulnerable parked location, your insurance won't cover the loss. That's why you bought insurance in the first place. I'd even suggest that if you want to further discourage thiefs, buy and cover your bike, when parked outside in a vulnerable location, with a bike cover that you can thread a secondary cable lock thru. Please get that quote and report back to us if you think insurance is your best bet to protect your investment.
  11. 2 likes
    Your best insurance are your habits. My Electric Black Lightning is housed in my studio with an alarm system and my long driveway is protected by an alarm system named Driveway Patrol, the alarm sounds inside my house. My errand stops, have either inside parking or secure high visibility parking with my cable lock. Even if someone cuts my cable, they have no power as my batteries XT-90S connectors are apart. A thief can't even easily pedal, because I have folding pedals so there is no platform for shoes and my cable lock is woven thru my pedals. I never park my EBL out of my view for more than a minute or two. Even at WalMart I park next to the security office and under the constantly monitored security cameras. The Jupiter House, my coffee house stop, I park inside. The Grocery Store I park inside. My Drs Office I park inside. If I can't find secure parking I don't shop or stop there except, EXCEPT on the rare short stop. As far as insurance, your home owners may cover your the US eBikes of the Sondors Specifications are classified as Bicycles (probably need motorcycle coverage if you ride is modified to exceed your states' eBike laws) As an alternative, I'd call Norris Hibbler at Aircraft & Marine Assurance Company. They insure my aircraft (and most of my AYA Grumman Owners Aircraft Association members) and if he can't write you a policy, he can advise you and he's a hell of a guy.
  12. 2 likes
    Yes @jabomano, let's see some pictures.
  13. 2 likes
    Are you planning to add a second battery or share your L3 with both systems? if adding a second battery, then you will have two independent systems. This will allow you to keep the best of both motors, super long range while having access to speed on demand. if you are sharing a battery, then your range will suffer the moment you use the cyclone. Something to keep in mind is the need for a high amp output battery to accommodate both motors simultaneously. You will also need a battery output splitter cable.
  14. 2 likes
    Thank you @Andi and @Tabletteer @jabomano, your L3 battery range while on the stock motor and 25a controller is very close to what I have experienced on the same set up, that tells me we are close in weight and have the a similar riding style. I do not have any experience with the cyclone motor, so I won't be able to share any real world test results. Here is one way to try to guess your new battery range. Multiply your current battery and amp hours to come up with your total watt hours. Then do the same with your new motors' batter ah and controller amps. If you divide your current watt hours by controller amps, that will give you the number of hours you can ride. Now do the same with your new set up. Compare the new number of hours to the old. Use that same ratio against the 70 miles L3 range and you should see the new range. This model is not exact and won't replace the real world range test. Of course this is only accurate if you stick with the same riding style and average speed. hope this helps.
  15. 2 likes
    I highly recommend upgrading to at least the 25A controller if you are going to use the Wendy LCD and for future battery upgrades. I donteven think the LCD works right with the stock LCD. Sondors didnt like that so they put in their own safe guards. Good news is, their cost for the LCD is our cost for a Wendy LCD and a 25A controller. So no biggie. Just keep in mind that installing an upgraded controller requires a little mounting creativity depending on which one you get. My 25A fit the top two stock mount holes, so that is how it mounted. When I got the next one up, it didnt fit so it lays in the battery box sideways with foam around it and the battery.
  16. 2 likes
    I'm in Oregon city. Perhaps I will see you out on your trail this summer.
  17. 2 likes
    Huge big thanks to you all for your work and sharing. Thank you so so much. As a grad student, taking on a project like this and no direction would set me back months! Thanks very much. Truly. I will take this on this summer. Best, cheers, Polo
  18. 2 likes
    This is what I bought to do my 3sp conversion on my new Sondors Thin bike. Derailleur Crank set with 56t chaining Shifter with cables (used only the left side ) Chain (had to add links from another one I had) 3 speed freewheel Need cable housing, ties and a longer derailleur inside stop bolt- don't know the size
  19. 1 like
  20. 1 like
    i ordered the lunacycle lcd and controller upgrade, im not gonna worry about too much speed yet, still waiting on bike still, lol
  21. 1 like
    Get a 52v battery instead of a 48v and you'll get a little more oomph out of it. Take it to the next level and instead of upgrading to 48/52v gear, loook at the Electrobikeworld 60v battery and compatible LCD and controller. Now you have a 17.5ah battery capable of punching you up to 40 mph. edit: At that 60v power level though I would give serious consideration to putting it in a new wheel thats better suited to a 2500w output system rather than the 650w or so that the stocker contemplated when it left the factory.
  22. 1 like
    i got the same ole...."the containers are still coming in" business, lol
  23. 1 like
    thats funny, although i've had 2 beers, lol as of today no tracking number yet, we will see about monday....
  24. 1 like
    Strongly recommend you confirm with the vendor that its a threaded freewheel motor before they ship. I bought my threaded 750 from that vendor and they did correspond with me and were extremely good to deal with. My motor arrived with a damaged casing and they actually expressed a replacement to me. A Chinese vendor with that kind of vendor rating earned it and proved that with me.
  25. 1 like
    as of now, I still await for my tracking number email, LoL
  26. 1 like
    Welcome @didi to the Sondors Owners Forum. You have bought the newer Bafang 350watt Freehub motor that is probably compatable with the newest 7 speed Sondors X series eBike as a swap out replacment. It might only be compatible with your bike, if you lace it into your existing wheel. Might or might not require new spokes, most likely spacing will be the same or close enough to not. You'll need to spread the rear triangle to get it between the dropouts. . You'll also need a Fixie single speed conversion freewheel for multi speed cassette hubs or convert to a 7 speed cassette, derailure, shifter and cable, w/housing. Alternately you could return it (expensive) or sell it in the Forum Marketplace, and buy the correctly sized replacment, that all the local Sondors replacment part suppliers have stocked, the 48v 750watt motor that many are upgrading to. Requires the 35amp controller with larger higo connector plug and generic LCD.
  27. 1 like
    Hi from the Great White North Recently purchased a Sondors original gold and expecting delivery in August. Can't wait to get it and cruise around lovely Gabriola Island. Recently moved back here after retiring and I'm surprised at how many electric bike owners are on this island. Even another Sondors owner who I am trying to track down. Apparently she works at the Vancouver Island University and commutes on the ferry regularly with her Sondors bike. Nice thing about that is you don't have to wait in the traffic lineup as bikes always go on first and are never charged for above regular foot passenger fees. Great way to avoid overloads and missed ferries. Hope she sees this and contacts me as I would love to see what she has to say about the bike. I'll send some pictures when it arrives.
  28. 1 like
    100 % Legality Project, Reminds me of a song lyric "The ministry don't worry me my paperwork's alrightThey can't touch me, I got my sleep last nightIts knocking out a living wage in nineteen sixty nineI'm just a thiever, stealing time In the Border Reiver". Mark Knopfler
  29. 1 like
    Good-Day @Dwight Anderson and welcome. Glad to have you...okay eh, and it won't be a very long Looks lovely there.
  30. 1 like
    That sounds like the Perfect Life for a Sondors...if it was a dog I'd lick your face. I kinda figgered and why I explained ..... I live in an Oak Forest on a Beach but there ain't no salt in my lake...)) We all love pictures here so please post up. A new gallery will be added to the comming forum upgrade but you don't have to wait for that. I sold one of my Sondors, to a friend, to carry on his Motorhome. It's the ideal Vechicle for use in and around campgrounds. I considered a MH purchase but Aircraft Ownership is all I could handle, so I built my own lightweight, pop-top, compact, camping trailer to pull behind my Diesel Jetta TDI. Even pulling the Mobile-miPad I get 30mpg. I'll be dragging it with my Modified Electric Black Lightening to Big Brnd NP on the recommendation of @Houshmand Moarefi to check out my rendition of his original Sondors Mountian climbing Monster, to see how good is takes on some challenging climbs there.
  31. 1 like
    Battery,Stock motor I have a extended range battery and holder mount,stock motor and controller and stock LCD for a Sondors Original for sale. 300 for everything. Taken off bike the first week.. please write me a pm.
  32. 1 like
    Fill your tires with some sort of liquid Stanz, like Product...FILL twice the recommended amount. I once rode the Caprock Canyon Trailway Challenge. I had 50 goatheads in the first 100 yards, but we had been warned and I loaded with Slime. I never got a flat (there are more effective formulations of stop leak than the original Slime now and when I buy tubes, at Bike shop Ben's, I have him pre-fill my tubes (only 4oz, though, less than recommend) with his recommendation and at home, I install them on a extra rims without the tire and into my truing stand and spin them for some time, before placing them in a ziplock storage bag with talc. . One of our inexperienced members, refused to monitor or use correct tire pressure that had a problem with goatheads too and it cost him a trip to the hospital when his under inflated tire rolled on the rim and caused a wreck. Thicker tubes are only minimally effective against goatheads and you'll find a better assortment of thick and pre-sealant tubes with the Presta valve but sealant WILL stop THOSE leaks. I carry a small Leatherman style multi tool, in my top tube trunk and at the first sign, that I've run over a patch of goatheads, i stop and remove every single thorn, before they get farther imbedded in the tire carcass and get back to safer roadways. Never been a fan of tire liners but seems a growing contingency of newly ordained cyclists think they are necessary. I have over 2,000 miles on my Electric Black Lightening, with one low tire discovered before a ride, one morning, from a thumb tack (was not a flat) and one flat that was on the inner side of the tube, next to the rim from a tiny semi sharp nipple imperfection on the rim that was there from manufacturing. Goat heads abound in this Trailway. You will find thin tube recommendations here on the do have to look or use the search function.
  33. 1 like
    I got mine straight from china. There were no extra costs attached to it. It did cost more to ship it to Canada though! Ballpark $1400. ca total to my door. Price of bike ,shipping and exchange.
  34. 1 like
    Hi @TEE VEE & @Don Dolan could you please both send me a private message with your informations (when bought (date), where (please attach the receipt) , when got it delivered and which delivery company - also bike configuration ... any upgrades?) Thanks Administration Sondors Forum
  35. 1 like
    Consider me mapped,..we are in that little Hollywood Riviera Neighborhood. Tread lightly
  36. 1 like
    Howdy @joe @joe, and welcome to the Sondors Owners Forum. We be Root'n Toot'n glad you found us and Giddyup! You'll be want'n to plant ur flag on the members' map. Like many of us, you figger'd out that the Sondors eBike is the next best thing to a western pony to get you up and movin and an excelent way to be moseyin on twards better health. Use the forum as your trail guide and you'll find recommendations on rear racks to mount your saddle bags on and a whole hell of a lot more. Just peruse the accessories threads and use the search function to thin the herd. Just remember, " Don't Squat With Yer Spurs On", and send a big HOWDY to our trail boss @Andi. yippie tie yie yay
  37. 1 like
    Happy Independence Day Hello, @Sovamind, and welcome to the Sondors Owners Forum. We are glad you found us and enjoy your stay. Don't forget to say Hello to Andi, our forum owner (he loves new owners PM him when they arrive). Andi loves to Caution, "Warning, customizing your Sondors can be hazardous to your wallet!" Personally those steerer tube spacers are ugly no matter what you do to them so it's easier and cost effective to replace them. The taper washer, spacers and seat post clamp are avalable from Amazon or any number of online domestic suppliers but here is what I bought. Although I painted the new rims, before lacing them, when I switched them out to better double wall rims on my Sondors, I hated the red rims on my Dolomite and didn't want to go to the trouble of relacing and trueing those fat bike rims so I used a combination of blue painters tape and stripping tape. I circled the nipples with the blue tape and any slight spots I left uncovered I used the thin stripping tape, likewise, anywhere I got a little wide, I cleaned it up with a #11 Exacto knife. I use the blue tape to fold over the spokes lengthwise and wrapped an old t-shirt, from my rag bad around the hub. I also bought a quality 3T carbon fiber seatpost, stem and handlebar for both the Dolomite and Sondors Fat, that started out just like yours. Now the Electric Black Lightening is no longer a Sondors and the only original parts are the frame, fork and bottom bracket. Thread for removing the logo.
  38. 1 like
    First Wave Shipping Update We have been informed that the first wave of SONDORS for US and Canada is on its way. You all will be receiving notifications via email as we get closer to the ship date. Everything is on target for our August shipping target. As you know we cannot promise exact dates, but an early August shipping window is looking good right now. We still have a number of SONDORS in these containers that can be shipped in early August if you buy them now. We have certain Original, SONDORS 7, Thin, Thin 7 and Fold still available for the first wave of shipping. You can see all the details in the descriptions of each product page.
  39. 1 like
    @Brandnew: ebike batteries are something to be taken seriously insofar as safety is concerned, but you can *greatly* minimize your risk. I ride 30 miles per day, 5-6 days per week and charge twice daily - once at the office and once when I get back home, and I expect between 2000 and 4000 charging cycles based on how I do it. More on that longevity thing later. As you have surmised smart chargers are the way to go. Over time you will get a good sense of how long your charge takes on a given battery, but there is no substitute for a charger that figures this out for you. You can let the onboard BMS handle it but if the BMS fails - and they do, albeit mostly on no-name online Chinese bargain batteries - the result is usually catastrophic. The Luna smart chargers are the low-cost solution. I have a mini charger that runs at a continuous 3 amps and has a single switch to select 80, 90 and 100% charges. I also have one of their Advanced chargers that has an LED output to show current voltage, plus it selects the amp draw in 1-amp increments from 1a to 5a, along with the 80/90/100 switch. You really want a charger with an 80/90/100 switch, but if you want the batteries to last their longest you also want to slow-charge the batteries if possible. Thats where the Advanced charger shines as you can select a 1a or 2a feed. I use 1a. I did have a charger failure: My 3a charger failed after a little over a month and Luna replaced it promptly after I online-chatted with one of their techs about the problem (on Superbowl Sunday no less). I also own a Cycle Satiator. It is triple the price of a Luna charger and worth every penny. You can program in whatever voltage or amp draw you want and it works on any battery voltage, so it works on both my 52v or 36v batteries, and it'll work on 60v or 72v if I go that route on a pending project I'm beginning. Its self-contained and water resistant, and its small enough to keep in my saddlebags so it travels with me. Its plugs are also modular so again... it works on any battery you can buy or make a plug for (they sell a bunch, as does Luna). There's one last safeguard I throw in and you should to: a *mechanical* countdown timer. As I mentioned you will get a good idea of your charge times. I set mine to shut down about an hour after my charger is supposed to hit its target. Since I charge my 52v batteries to a bit less than 80%, if the charger, which is running at 1a, goes on another hour due to a failure to shut down, there's no harm done as it would take much more than another hour to hit 100% on the battery and then be relying on the BMS to stop feeding the cells more power. A mechanical timer is fault-tolerant of things like momentary power outages. I let it go the extra hour in case I guess wrong on the charge time. Cost is $12 and I NEVER hook up a charger without this on the plug. It takes some commitment to throw $300+ at a charger. But they add convenience, additional layers of protection and improve battery longevity if used to do so. Many hardcore DIY ebikers don't use them because they cost real money. Me, I like not getting my house burned down more. Since you have lots of time to read waiting on your bike, here's an extremely important article that frankly you can skim thru mostly. Try to wade thru it as best you can but the conclusions are the most important part. It is critical in understanding what really kills Li-ion batteries: Read the comments after the article. I describe my charge cycle at the time to the author and his response plus the article's contents led me to change to the twice-daily method. Also this is another article that gives you some specific charging targets. Look for the Depth of Discharge table.
  40. 1 like
    @Tabletteer have you tried the camera yet? What's the picture quality? How does it compare to GoPro?
  41. 1 like
    Wanted to compile a resource of THIN tire specs for a one-stop shop for anybody new so they won't have to go through this all but needed some feedback first: Please correct me on any of these if they are wrong and provide links as needed and I will update the original post Stock Tire size: 700 x 38/45C Stock Tube size: 28in x 1.5in with 60mm Shrader Valves ( The original tube was a Chaoyang part number 04096226 ) Recommended improvements Rim tape: Used to prevent spokes from poking tube. Some bikes appear to have well placed tape already, while some appear to be missing it completely. Does anybody know what size rim tape is appropriate? My local bike shops wanted to charge anywhere from $26 up to $60 to install rim tape. This is something that can be done yourself for not a whole lot of effort as you technically don't need to remove the tire to do this, although it would make it easier). Tape options 700c x 17mm - 16mm - Alternative tubes: From what I have found, no one can seem to find 60mm shrader valves in the correct size unless you by them directly through Sondors and they run roughly $100/each I believe I read that a 45mm Shrader valve would work but you need a proper pump to fit over it and latch correctly. Presta valve tubes:
  42. 1 like
    As a famous quote by Homer Simpson says: DOH! Hey man, you got a valid point there! I realized the lack of wrench flats or similar removal tool attachment points on the Luna spacer, but I ordered it anyway due to not having other alternatives at that point (or me being to stupid to propperly earch the interweb, hehehe). Thanks for the link! I think I'll get this one, too, then I can compare both and give you guys some feedback. @Tabletteer That is indeed a good question concerning the motor spindle. Since the hull design of the 250W and the 350W motor differ, it would be interesting to know if there are futher design differences between those and the 750W motor casing.
  43. 1 like
    I thought I'd update this thread with my progress so you can see what kind of impact this kind of injury can have on a person. It's been a year and 3 months since I broke my leg and had surgery. I am able to ride thanks to the Sondors PAS helping me along w the throttle, and have done so many times. I still struggle on a standard bike due to the plate causing pressure on my bone in the leg, so hills or anytime you need to really stand on it I experience pain. Throttle and PAS FTW here. I had to have GI surgery in March 2017 (almost the same date of my leg surgery one year later) and was down for a few months before and after. But I was cleared to ride etc 2 months ago and RIDE I HAVE! Over the last 28 days, I've ridden 10-18 miles every single day (minus one I worked in the yard and rode a smaller ride and yesterday I rode 25). Biking is the one thing I can do without pain, and I thank my Sondors for that. When my leg was super weak, the PAS set up higher helped me literally ride 10 miles without issues. As my leg has gotten stronger and my ROM has increased in my ankle, I've been able to drop it to PAS 1 and sometimes w wind behind me PAS 0. And when the wind is gusting against me, I use PAS 2 or 3 to help me keep my pace. I credit my slow but strong recovery to the Sondors Thin which I've put 630miles since I got it, most of those w my broken and then healed leg. I limp when I walk and have to wear ankle support or tall hiking boots and still have pain, I can't jog or run or even hike due to the uneven terrain but my Thin has allowed me to bike daily and feel human again. My Physical Therapist and surgeon both said the bike was a great idea and that I was improving much faster as a result of using it since it allowed me to pedal when one leg was not strong enough and it helps me to keep my ankle moving and stretch and work the muscles and tendons. I'm building my leg and ankle up and keeping my ankle flexible in the process as well as getting back into shape. I still have a fear of curbs and the edges of pathways as a result of the wreck, and have had one incident where I got off the path accidentally, dropping 2" into sand and was lucky enough to slow and stop and fall into my left unbroken foot/leg to stop me. I don't know how long the fear will be there but I ride more carefully now. I was pretty out of control going as fast and carelessly as I wanted on the fatty before the accident. So I think despite the setbacks this has made me a better rider, person, and has aided me in ways I didn't even consider. I am having the plate removed before the end of the year and am told this will reduce the pain when walking and hiking but I will have to do PT and have recovery again, just not as lengthy. it's been a long journey to today from March 2016, but I am here to tell the tale. And I have loved my Thin even more since because of its helping me. I am about at the point where I can use my normal bike for rides, but I def feel the pain from pedalling on hills and such after. So I've stuck to the Thin mostly. Loving this bike and what it's done to help me!
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    In Europe it are stupid laws that kills the ebike!
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    Arrrgh. I hate to say it buddy, but you got the wrong one. The Luna part is a good one, but as you no doubt have already guessed (or at least I hope so) freewheel tools don't work on a 750w motor due to the captured bolts and inability to fit the removal tool over/around them, or even the motor plug. This means that freewheel removal is a major headache just like it was with the el cheapo 350w setup, You are back to using hammers and punches etc. Possibly even destructive removal and replacement. The Luna spacer does not have something that the EBikeKit spacer does have: Wrench flats This allows you to use a (big) crescent wrench to loosen the entire freewheel+spacer assembly, which comes right off and then you can separate the freewheel from it as needed by placing the spacer in a vise and THEN using your removal tool and a wrench on it. This spacer solves the one major, otherwise insoluble problem of the 750 motor. Unless you've figured something out? You'd be the first to come up with something different than the above.
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    selbverständlich :-) Good luck in your search.
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    My only observation from my own usage, when I used the canister battery, is that on occasion, I didn't get the battery snapped into its cradle completely. I always charged that battery out of the triangle box. I only discovered the unseated battery when riding over rough terrain and my Fat would go dead (happened a couple of times before I made sure the battery was seated, to lock snap, before every ride when replacing it in the cradle) and snapping the battery to lock in the cradle restore power. A loose fitting battery can cause excessive current drain and arching at the contacts in the cradle. That could cause erroding or even melting at the contact points. I can't tell much from that picture but what I think I see is damage in and around the cradle from moisture. I'd suspect that either of those diagnosis might be your girlfriends problems. I do recall one other post reported on the forum of a similar problem (some time ago) but not the resolve. A lot of poster get suggestions to their problems but never report back. The posts here are convoluted, vast and disorganized, so finding that post will be difficult but using the forums search function and various search strings with Battery and some problem descriptive terms might help find it.
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    Hi Mario, could you please post pictures from the front and side + point of view when you sit on it.? Thanks
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    Looking to replace the stock 40T chainring with a 48 or 52 tooth with the 3 speed conversion. Can anyone provide links for the correct parts. Do I have to replace the whole crankset? Thanks!