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  1. Yesterday
  2. Well, there are pin sockets on the controller side and the 3 lg ones in the center is where you should test for Current/Voltage , while depressing the throttle. Have you changed any settings in the controller by reprogramming the LCD? There are settings that control the bars in the fatter display. Sounds like that might be where the problem is .... or your controller is bad. It all depends on you being able to detect or not, current at that Higo connector. Not seeing current there eliminates the motor as the fault, and the controller is not sending current to the motor, that can be a problem created in programming though, even accidentally. Controllers are the most common cause of malfunctions and especially NO POWER. But first I’d suggest you re-program your controller with the instructions for the LCD. You can reset it to factory specs then change settings to your preferences by following Kyle’s video in the link I supplied above. Reddy
  3. LEE COUNTY BICYCLE FACILITY Map https://www.fortmyers-sanibel.com/media/16997/bike_facility_map.pdf Yes, Southwest Florida is flat, in fact this may be the highest point in the county, unless you are counting freeway overpasses. We enjoy year around riding, as Lee County has done a great job on Trails for us! I have not made it to Fort Myers Beach, but that is on the Bucket List! More rehab needed!
  4. This Wooden Bridge is on the Bike/Foot path along Daniels Parkway, the path takes you along the Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve. Very quiet even though you are traveling adjacent to Daniels Parkway and then Six Mile Cypress. This has been my rehab rout for the past six months. Today's ride was a 16 mile round trip.
  5. And again, the only thing that looks amiss is the battery indicator on the LCD is 'empty', its just a rectangle without any of diagonal bars inside... otherwise all looks good on the LCD and power indicator lights. And the main issue, no power to the rear wheel via the thumb throtttle nor when pedaling. Again, hope you can help!
  6. Thanks again for the help! I do see the voltage on the LCD is good (varies btwn 40-41V) but when I disconnect the Higo connector, the pins (male connectors) are on the motor side of the connector, not the battery/controller side, so I do not see how I can check the voltage coming off the controller (since is a female connector). I do have a multi-meter, and have worked in an electronics lab before, but just don't see how I can check the voltage since the pins (male side of the connector) once disconnected does not have any voltage on them (since they are on the motor side, not the battery/controller side). Again, appreciate any further help you can provide. Joel
  7. Last week
  8. Motor Hall Signal Anomaly! http://www.key-display.com/Downloads/User Manual/KD718-K4 users manual-20180521.pdf I’d check to make sure the lg Higo Connector under the right chainstay is properly plugged together. Do Not Twist It, just make sure it’s properly aligned and completely plugged together. LEMMENO I’m dreaming of cooler weather, heat index was 107°F here today. REDDY
  9. I’m pretty sure there might be one somewhere in the market but I couldn’t source one in a cursory Google search. Might be time to either make one of colored lucite or spring for a larger Crankset. I use a 56T on my modified 7 speed 750Watt Original Fat and have just purchased a 58T crankset for the “Road Burner”, Sondors Custom Narrow (a model that only saw one Campaign issue) I’m converting. You can probably find a 52T Crankset for a song, they’re so popular or a 44T which is another popular size. I’d send you my old stripped Original Chainring side crank but that bash ring is damaged. It’s just Recycle Material now. REDDY
  10. I got a code error 24 on my LCD and my wheel doesn’t quite go as it used to. Any ideas what (error 24 means)? Anyone!? Please help me I’d highly appreciate it if you shared any ideas what the problem might be.
  11. You can remove that residue with an Amazon available, Magic Eraser and a little WD-40
  12. It’s the original 40t prowheel I believe on a sondors Original. Prowheel A007. The bolt spacing for the chain guard is 96mm. I can’t find one like that anywhere.
  13. Same as the related post for SONDORS for the Beach. I call my SONDORS MX 750 as it is a Modified bike vs a purchased SONDORS XS, back when the XS came out. The would love to go head to head with the new SONDORS MXS!
  14. 6" Diameter Art Work was left behind by a sticker I peeled off, I going to keep it!
  15. Eric333, what’s the tooth count on your” Chainring”? All Sondors are not created equal. https://sondorsforum.com/topic/2081-visual-map-to-sondors-original-parts/ REDDY
  16. Does any know where I can get the plastic replacement chainring guard for the front crankset/sprocket?
  17. I’d check the voltage at the battery with a multimeter first, tell us what it reads. Then make sure the current is getting thru to the controller. Next I’d check that current is getting in and out of the throttle and to the LCD. Where ever the current stops, the previous component is most likely the problem. LEMMENO REDDY
  18. Albert, don’t forget to post all your riding adventures and Sondors eBike pictures to our Owners Gallery, where they are more accessible. They kinda get lost as more pages populate in open forum. https://sondorsforum.com/gallery/ REDDY
  19. Hello Forum, I have a sondors X Fold and i pushed on and i saw a fraction of a moment the lcd light up and then out.... dead. I can get no life ... I checked some connections, but no change. What can i do ? Thanks, James ( Belgium)
  20. I’m 6’4” and when I raise the seat so I can pedal I can’t reach the ground. It’s an awkward and uncertain situation which at 75 I feel at risk. Thinking of modifying seat lower and backward to achieve stability. Any thoughts on the matter?
  21. Hello everyone, A couple of years ago, I was looking to replace my crankset on my Fold X (7 speed), due to my pedal threads stripping out. Well Sondors sent me a replacement crankset under warranty. Fast forward to a month (or 2) ago, and the square taper in my crank became so loose, that it's probably harmful to the bike (and maybe me) to continue using it this way. It will not tighten any more. In the future, I promise to use Loctite... I read the facebook pages, I read the advice here, etc. Everyone is pointing to "Fixie" or single speed cranks. I have recently bought a bunch of these suggested cranks, and none of them work (Lydolle, Retrospec, Senqi and 2 others I can't remember), because again, they are for single speed bikes I'm still looking for a 7 speed crankset. The only options I'm finding are well over 100 dollars. One of the options (that I found on here) was purchase one of those Fixie cranks, and swap the gear on it... Which is basically still over $100, but I don't want to keep playing guessing games with this. Does anyone know for sure, of any cranksets for the (shimano) 7 speed Fold X? Also remember it's square taper. I found some options on ebay but they were not square tapered where they bolt up to the bottom bracket I'll spend over $100 if I have to... I just want to ride this bike again.
  22. Looking for Somdors bike owner groups in Austin Texas
  23. The Flat Bar is an easy place to mount things, but it becomes a maze of clutter, at some point. Late last night I decided I wanted my GoPro camera off the SONDORS X flat bar. Before and After I wanted a basic mount design, that did not require fasteners, moved the camera away from all the cables, and incorporates the old Flat Bar mount. A little time on SolidWorks, an overnight 3D print, and it was time for a test mounting on my X, just call me Mr. Lucky, hit all the numbers the first time. The mount surrounds the SONDORS Stem Spacers and is compressed vertically with the Cap over the Stem Riser, all the way to the stem spacer's original position, this way the camera mount does not interfere with the flat bar clamping. Super easy assembly, I will let you know how it works tomorrow after my 10 mile.
  24. I need help in setting the speedometer correctly on my Fat XS. I first set it to the recommended setting and the speed was off by 16%. I then set it at largest wheel diameter and now I'm off 8%. I'm using my original sondors fat and the waze app to check speed.
  25. Well I’d consider your suspicions the number one culprit. There is a chance it could be the motor but I think that’s less likely unless, like I’ve asked recent poster Joel to, check for damage were the motor cable exits the rear axel. That has been a trouble spot where power failures are experienced. A bad connection in the Large Higo connector between the controller and motor under the right chainstay is also a common trouble spot. I haven’t kept the stock Sondors controller on any of my 3 Sondors and with a fresh battery you might try, as a first step at resolving the problem by buying an 25amp controller and a companying LCD from Boltonebikes.com for not much more money than just the replacement, 15amp controller from Sondors. You’ll enjoy the faster acceleration, and torque but beware. .... the extra throttle response can be addictive and using it to its limits continually will reduce range. Used prudently, when you need it and you won’t notice. https://boltonebikes.com/collections/motor-controllers-and-displays The most common electrical failures on our Sondors have been the controllers. I you decide on the controller/lcd upgrade you can offer your existing LCD in our marketplace thread or the FaceBoob Group and be sure to chat or email with Bolton on the exact combo for your Sondors. Lemmeno REDDY
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