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  3. Albert, I do appreciate your restraint and I do believe you add valuable content to our forum. And although you are my Junior in age, we do share very similar experience, albeit I believe that my long commitment to cycling had guarded me against problematic knees. And as I stated for James, we’d all benefit from health and recovery stories achieved , at least in part from out Sondors and a detailed full account of your recovery and progress is welcome. Those submittals have always be a valuable part of our Forum. One of my best friends had bought a Sondors but because he hasn’t submitted to treatment for his knees and found that riding was too painful he decided that he couldn’t ride. He is also afraid he’s too young at present to consider knee replacement... yet. I’m sure he’d benefit from your experience and recovery. REDDY
  4. Thank you for the help. I'm sorry if I left out any pertinent information. I only said what I thought was relevant, but I see what you're saying. I bought the display new from a seller who ships directly from China. That was definitely a mistake, since it did not come with the proper connections to match the controller. I had to buy an extension cable to make it work, but it was still not long enough to reach, which is why that wire is run right down the middle of the bike, which I hate. if I had to do it over again, I would have ordered the screen from the same place I bought the controller, and it would have saved me a lot of frustration. I have not noticed any damage to the wires right now though. The larger batteries and controllers wouldn't fit in the plastic boxes, which is why they were removed.
  5. It’s not the fact that KT controllers & LCDs are common, as I’ve stated here on this thread already, incompatibility, between both KT components has been an issue here in many posts and identified as the culprit and the issue. Not for intermittent PAS though, so far. The fact that you bought your controller off eBay and especially since you don’t identify it as new from a supplier or used from an individual, or of what version, brings it into suspicions because of what I’ve mentioned already, that you don’t seem to understand. There are many, many Sondors supplied controllers offered for sale on eBay because the owners have upgraded their bikes with aftermarket Controllers and LCD’s . A 55 gal drum of those original Sondors controllers are almost worthless and might only make a decent boat anchor. The reason you can’t mix aftermarket KT components with Sondors components are because Sondors had changed theirs‘ to a Unique Communication Protocol to make them incompatible with aftermarket KT components. The reason for this was to raise the price on their components that they sell (profits). This though, has really shot them in to foot because you can replace both Sondors KT components, with an aftermarket pair, both Controller and LCD, for about the same expenditure as just one or the other, of the Sondors units. But, what you describe is exactly the problem with the PAS magnet disk and it’s pickup not being properly aligned. That being said, if I’d seen a picture of your bike from the onset, I’d have also included the exposed wiring on your bike as a possibility. You also left out very pertinent information about the specifics of your changes that are all necessary and germane for accurate diagnosis. By all means be sure and return when the problem is solved and tell us what you find. REDDY
  6. Good Morning James, I hope you received my private mail. REDDY knows that I have been behaving myself, lately, and I do enjoy the forum. I Totaly support SONDORS, I have two of the “X”s, and a MXS. Without my SONDORS Ebikes, I would not be riding my MXS, with the battery turned off, here in Southwest Florida. Being able to go from a “Bone on Bone” knee to riding a 60+ pound bike is nothing short of spectacular! Yes Florida is flat, but it’s still pretty amazing. One last thing, I started my SONDORS journey weighing in at 265 lbs, my 3 rides a week have moved the needle to 210 lbs. I will be 71 in late July and I can tell you that my SONDORS’ has been the fountain of youth, when coupled with PEMF and Prolotherapy.
  7. I wouldn't have imagined compatibility between the controller and screen being an issue, since The KT screen and KT controller combo is pretty common, and there are very little Sondors original factory electronics left on the bike. I've changed the motor to a 750 watt motor, changed the controller to a 35 amp, changed the battery to 52 volt, added aftermarket LCD, and I'm about to upgrade the brakes to Shimano hydraulic brakes. The bikes don't even look much like Sondors bikes anymore Thank you for the help though. It definitely will give me an idea of how to proceed from here to get the pedal assist working again.
  8. James, this forum has just such capabilities, it’s the PM function (Private Messaging). But issues about health and welfare are not off topic here. We love to hear about how cycling has helped our members in those respects. REDDY FORUM MODERATOR
  9. Yesterday
  10. https://www.pemf8000pro.com/product/pemf8000-pro-2-0-superpack/ I don’t want to get thrown off the forum, but I sent you this link as FYI. The entire story is quite amazing.
  11. Albert, this is off topic to Sondor, but above you talk of Rehabbing your knee, I cannot find the post that talked about the therapy you used, I believe it was PEMF. I don't know how I might contact you privately, but I would like to hear more about the PEMF therapy. Any of your input would be good, did you have the treatment with a therapist, or did you treat at home along with the biking. if you can point me to a place to learn more, i would be grateful. Thank you
  12. Buying the controller and LCD from two different sources doesn't insure, on the contrary, promote compatibility. Because Sondors branded controllers and LCD’s use preparatory communication protocols mixing either will cause problems but I’m not sure that’s causing the problem. It doesn’t look like either of those pickups are *"touching"* the magnet disk. Maybe yours is different. The disk slides on the bottom bracket spindle. Neither of my Sondors will operate when the pickup is more that a few business cards thickness, from the disk. If it’s caddywampus on the spindle, the power delivery will be intermittent and cuts out when the disk is too far or, on my bikes, not touching. On the black bike it appears that the bracket holding the pickup is bent and there is some debris/crud in the photo, In that location. What generally happens is, if the chain comes off the chainring and is in between the chainring and the bottom bracket it will move the magnet ring out of contact with the sensor, happens all the time on multi speed Sondors, especially I’d the derailleur is out of adjustment. By what ever means possible, even straightening the pickup’ s mounting bracket, move the pickup and magnet disc closer together and try cleaning up the drive train on your bike. If your using an oil base chain lube, consider completely cleaning your chain, off the bike, and switching to White Lightning Clean Ride as chain lube. If you don’t own a chain break (cheap from Aliexpress) you should take your bikes to a LBS (local bike shop) and have them perform chain removal and cleaning and buy a few master links to put your chains back together and an extra to keep in reserve. It won’t get your chain all greasy and attract dirt, grit and grime that will wear out you chain. Chain Wax actually expels dirt and your chain will last 5 times longer. ‘If you have gasoline for your mower, you can use it first but a second bath/clean in Rubbing Alcohol to remove the distillates in the fuel to get your chains clean enough to accept and keep the wax on otherwise it wont penetrate the pins and plates and stick. Your wife’s chain looks rusty. REDDY
  13. I bought the LCD from eBay, and the controller from Bolton eBikes. I have narrowed down that the LCD is not the problem though. I unplugged it and put the little cap back on that came with the stock bike on the LCD outlet from the controller side. So even bypassing the LCD, the problem remains. The magnet looks to be lined up correctly, but I'm not exactly sure how I would know for sure. Comparing it to my wife's Sondors that works correctly, everything looks like it's on there properly. (Mine is the black one and hers is the white one)
  14. Well there’s good news and kinda annoying news. Good news is that they all look that way and if your Fat has the Motor Power Outlet Guard, it’s almost impossible to damage it to the (bad news) require motor replacement. That said, it you have good rewiring and soldering skills, some eBike owners have repaired broke wires and connections at that location. I’ve got over 14,000 miles on my Fat, have fallen on that side of the bike (several times) without a guard but my lower compartment on the pannier on that side carries a spare tube and bungee cords and Has protected that area so far. This is the not too Bad News ... even it your motors bursts into flames and your bicycle saddle catches on fire and scorches your ASS, you can replace a motor, with a Bafang 8Fun 750watt hub motor for less than 190$. I buy one every year, on November 11th, Singles Holiday in China and the whole country is on sale to promote population control. REDDY
  15. I find your initial post almost impossible to follow. I’m not going to base any trouble shooting routine on other posters‘ problem. I cannot tell where the quoted text starts or ends because it’s not indicated with "quotation marks". Since your LCD is showing anomalies battery voltage capacity, in its different displays, ie: actual voltage reading and bar graph, I’d assume that that is the culprit because you hadn’t changed any settings that can cause the bar graph to change its display. Since your thumb throttle indicates all lights you can assume power is getting to it but it only acts as a signaling device and main power does not pass thru it. It’s impossible to trouble shoot the controller, other that following the current flow into and out of unit itself. It’s unlikely that it’s where the fault lies based on your data, but I agree with you, it’s the most common defective component in these types of failures and can’t be ruled out. It you have the generic KT-LCD3, it’s the cheapest component to replace, direct from China. Can bought in the 50 to 60$ range. Delivery times from suppliers there are sagging as of late, due to the Pandemic. Our trusted US suppliers are more expensive buy should should be able to get one in a week, if in stock. My own association with several local, US bicycle shops, are that inventory of very basic items are getting hard to get. The only obvious anomaly is two different voltage reading, on the LCD and based on that, it’s the logical problem based on data you supplied. If you had fallen on the bike in any recent event, I would judge it more conclusive but I’m guessing you haven’t since it’s not mentioned. And generally when owners come here to find help on issues, only a small portion of those owners post results of solutions that have positive out comes. Out of sight out of mind. But almost always post up when issues have not been solved with an initial suggestions. The whole trouble shooting procedure, for solving problems, is a process of elimination and the ebike industry has yet to produce a trouble shooting computer like I have for my autos that registers error codes and faulty components (actually Bolton Bikes offers a very rudimentary device). My own SUV require replacement of a coolant temperature sensor that completely kept the engine from starting and the vehicles temperature gauge showed no engine overheating nor did the vehicle itself show any signs of vehicle overheating .... just a bad sensor discovered with a diagnostic automotive computer . Not starting even occurred when the car was stone cold. My own trouble shooting experience started in the 60’s on multimillion dollar aircraft with pilots lives hanging in the balance. They continue on my own aircraft and my own life at stake. REDDY
  16. The LCD and Controller had been consistently matched together for 2+ years when this error cropped up. I never changed any settings either. I only dug into the settings menus while drafting this post. I eliminated the brake levers and had no change. I also haven't seen the indicator on the screen that typically shows up whenever the brakes are engaged to show the motor cutout is active.
  17. I’ve got 250 miles on my fat tire and have noticed the power cable ( protected with a rubber cover ) connecting at the rear hub appeared to want to fray. It bends quite sharply hence the potential of eventually severing. I know that’s way down the road if it happens, but if it does, I’m screwed. Should I be concerned. Thanks for any input.
  18. I’ve got 250 miles on my fat tire and have noticed the power cable ( protected with a rubber cover ) connecting at the rear hub appeared to want to fray. It bends quite sharply hence the potential of eventually severing. I know that’s way down the road if it happens, but if it does, I’m screwed. Should I be concerned. Thanks for any input.
  19. Last week
  20. Decisions, Decisions, Decisions. I know zackly how you feel. I too was torn between two colors but in the beginning the color choices were not so fancy. But there is an easy solution. Need I Say More? Reddy Me Too: Esprit de Corps Oorah !
  21. HELP HELP HELP I am new to Sondors and about to order my first e-bike from them. I have decided to go with the new MXS. Sounds silly but I am so stuck between two colors for the bike: 1. Torch 2. Graphite I haven't see any customer pictures of this bike in Graphite. A few pictures in the Torch. At first I was going with the Torch, but then though about me using in some trail riding and thought maybe Graphite would be better?? Anyone out there have a Graphite bike where you could show the bike??? Semper Fi Vic
  22. That Storm Sondors, in Partnership with SpaceX‘s upcoming launch, will include a Sondors MXS with a space suited mannequin, gloved hands on the grips and booted feet on the pedals, launched into orbit on the Falcon9 Rocket and Dragon Capsule? Reddy
  23. That sounds like the mismatch between the LCD and Controller when replacing either one or the other. But eliminating the LCD should have restored power. Next I’d try eliminating the next most common error, that is that one or both of the brake lever interrupt switches is not releasing all the way causing the current interruption function. This most commonly occurs after a fall or when replacing /changing handlebars or adjusting the brake calipers or levers. Disconnect the Higo connectors between the levers and controller, one by one then both and see if power is restores. LEMMENO REDDY
  24. First I need to ask if you are sure your LCD and Controller are compatible? Where did you buy them? Make sure your PAS magnet disc is touching it’s sensor pick-up, throughout its rotation, it’s behind the chainring on the bottom bracket spindle. REDDY
  25. I just received a new KT LCD8H, and hooked it up with the new 35 amp controller I have. The pedal assist kicks on and off for no apparent reason. It will do it at any speed, so it's not a speed governor issue. The pedal assist will only work for about one second at a time and give me a burst of power and then cut off every couple of seconds. Is anybody know what could cause this, or how it could be fixed?
  26. Hello, I've seen this issue posted a couple times before but no solution seemed to come out. I've posted links to those two at the bottom of my post for reference. I have a Sondors Thin (from the 2016 Indiegogo campaign). I also purchased the SONDORS branded LCD (KT-LCD3) controller screen for it. I've put a little over 1200 miles on the bike and so far have only run into minor issues until now. I'll quote some from the JoelH thread below because it describes exactly what I'm seeing. I'll also go over the troubleshooting I've done to this point. I am not getting any response from the wheel/motor even though the battery is fully charged. The battery indicator on the thumb throttle (green/orange/red lights) is working and shows the battery is fully charged, but the battery indicator on the LCD shows no bars (empty) and the rest of the LCD is working fine. Not getting any power to the wheel with either the thumb throttle or cadence sensor (when peddling). LCD Screen 3 shows 40.4 Volts (a little low because the bike has been sitting without a charge through the winter and spring). I tried disconnecting the LCD screen and putting the factory cap back on and operating with just the original trigger, no change. I pulled the Higo connector on the right chainstay and tested all the combinations of the 3 large pins (female side) and got 0.0 V. I watched the KT-LCD3 video here and all my settings that could potentially be impacting the bike seem correct. https://youtu.be/B0F6x8V0NZQ I'm suspecting the motor controller, but before I go ordering parts, I'm just trying to make sure I'm looking at everything possible. Is there some other way to test the motor controller or even checking the wheel [BFSWX02 36V350W(11)] . I did check resistance between the various combinations of the 3 large pins on the motor (male) side and got 0 ohms in all the various combinations. The settings I saw in the KT-LCD3 are as follows: MXS-50 km/H 702c MPH P1 - 100 P2 - 6 P3 - 1 P4 - 0 P5 - 15 (was 12, changed it to 15 after watching the video) C1 - 02 C2 - 0 C3 - 8 C4 - 0 C5 - 10 C6 - 3 C7 - 0 C8 - 0 C9 - 0 C10 - n C11 - 0 C12 - 4 C13 - 0 C14 - 2
  27. Contact Sondors.com for Help with your battery. https://sondors.com/reviews/sondors-step/ Reddy
  28. Reddy I have yet to find a video on the Step battery removal. You find one please let me know. Yes I have watched numerous videos on Sondors Step. Thanks
  29. Reddy. I already did that. You show me one video on the Step battery removal ? I’ve found other sondors models but not the Step. So thanks.
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