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  2. You are now a Professionally Trained and Certified Sondors, Smart Step Technician. REDDY
  3. This will be my last post, The problem has been solved. I recalibrated the caliper and managed to "unstick" the wheel. It turns out the brakes were rubbing against the tire, so loosening the brakes then readjusting them proved to be the solution. Did a test run, bike works and the brakes work. Engine is functional and battery operational. Thank you for helping me these past few days. Your guidance was much needed and greatly appreciated!
  4. Yesterday
  5. Follow my last recommendation and find a bike shop and follow Sondors.com recommendations ; ASSEMBLY Now that you have your new SONDORS , If you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable with the assembly process, please take your SONDORS to a reputable bicycle professional for assistance. REDDY
  6. Hi Reddy! I attached all the lugs like you said and they fit like a charm! After a bit of persuading, the axel went right into the socket. Tightened the bolts and the bike now looks like its in one piece again. However, now comes was perhaps my first issue. The tire itself has some serious friction to it. Moving it with my bare hand only shifts is a couple inches around, and pedaling now takes an insurmountable effort. The motor works, thank God, but it requires the full 400 someodd volts to push the tire. I wonder if it has to do something with the brakes, or because how long this process has been, its oil has run out. But I won't do anything until a proper diagnosis can be prescribed. the solution is almost tangible! I searched for E-bike shops across the tri-state area. The closest is in New York City, about a two hour drive away from my location- not ideal when the vehicle I use has its rear wheel jammed by some kind of mystery force. I met up with the local bike shops, but they refuse to take any e-bikes or bikes over $1000, which may be absurd. IMG_4247.mp4
  7. No Apology required, for any delay, it gives me time to recuperate from writers’ cramp. I didn’t say anything about turning the bike right side up. Reassemble the 3 washers in the reverse order that you removed them. And for future removal of the rear wheel, loosen the axel nuts but don’t remove the disc brake side, of course the cassette side is captive but don’t totally loosen that nut either. Move the nuts to the threaded end of the axel but leave them on the axel/ The smallest washer slides on the axel first (you have that labeled 2), next # 3, lug pointing outward. See the markings on the surface of #1, that matches the same pattern on the axel nut so place it on last and I’d place the same side outward so it’s contacts the matching surface on the axel nut. You should assemble all those, including the opposite side axel nut, on the axel before replacing the wheel in the bike frame. The slot in the axel where the motor cable exits needs to face the forward. The Axel has Flats that allow the wheel to slide in the "SLOT " (a narrow, elongated depression, groove, notch, slit, or aperture, especially a narrow opening for receiving or admitting something). If you don’t have it and the motor cable in it’s exiting slot, in the axel and the axel flats correctly orientated, the axel will not slide into the Dropout Slot, in the frame. While trying to manipulate the whole wheel, getting the brake disc into the caliper’s slot, you’ll also need to turn the wheel or motor itself, on the gear side, and thus the axel flat, into the correct orientation so the axel flat (faces rearward to pass buy the derailleur hanger) and the thick washer lug on both slide into the frame’s Dropout Slot also in the correct orientation. You’ll have to determine for yourself if the lugs on both thick washers need to be orientated to the front or rear of the slot on either side of the bike (I’m not there to make sure which might hinder installing, in their respective slots but both facing in a like matter. I like to face them to the front (capative end of the slot, not the open end) if possible, because they are more secure and resist twisting from motor torque and spreading the distance between the inner surfaces of the slot, that could occur on the open end of the slot that could over time allow the axel to turn in the dropout. That would be very very BAD! Dont forget that you have to place the chain on the cassette before trying to mount the rear wheel in the dropouts. Remove the chain from the chainring to make it easier. And what are you using the alien wrench that on the floor in the picture for? ‘Using both Google Map and the Yelp App ,do a search for eBike shops. REDDY
  8. HI Reddy! Apologize for the extended delays between posts. Frankly, I'm afraid I need some clarification. The link showing the Sondor's parts and how they are installed showed no insight, as the model is vastly different compared to the one I own, and showed no insight of how the washers should be put in order. To ensure that I understand completely before I mess something else up, please give me guidance on which washers should be on which side of the dropout socket. I understand that #3 (the lugged washer) should be on the inside. But should any other washers be placed on the inside? Another issue (they seem to never stop!): when I removed the axel from the dropout socket to place the washers onto the axel, it suddenly became impossible to slide them back into the dropout. The derailer prevents it from sliding in, the slight metal edge making the entrance too tight for the axel. So it ends up being suspended above the sockets, jammed on the derailer. Please help me with this, I can't seem to find a solution no matter where I look
  9. I can’t tell if the engagement lugs on that thick washer are engaging the slots in the dropouts in your pictures. Did you now switch that lugged washer from the outside location on the dropout sliding on the motor axel, to the inside? You need to answer this question? That washer locks the motor axel in a fixed location (acting as a torque arm) keepIng the axel from turning, so just the motor case and thus the cassette / freewheel turn when the motor is powered. I’m hoping this is evident, but when sliding the rear wheel back into the dropouts, the Slot In the Hollow Motor Axel, where the motor cable exits needs to face forward so it has the correct orientation to continue to the bikes controller. REDDY
  10. I decided to make my mxs faster. Electrobike kt35 controller and lcd8h screen. 32 mph. Anyone have suggestions for going faster? 60 volt would rip 45? Acceleration is at least 25 percent more. Not sure of milage. Maybe 30 or 40 if i stop riding it like a dirt bike a few pics of i stall. Whatya think? Ok?
  11. Thanks for the info I decided to monitor and document the second charge with random temp checks Unfortunately, in a little less than an hour, the charger went *poof* and I was greeted with that lovely aroma of burnt electronics Here's video: I'll be giving SONDORS' a call in the morning. Hopefully they will take care of this quickly so i can get back on the road
  12. Wow, awesome, thanks for checking, Hal! This helps a lot. The very best from Sweden!
  13. Hi Reddy! Thanks for the reply Looking at your recommendations, I realize I should have had some photos ready for any problems that occurred. Before I do anything rash, I want to make sure that I am sure that my tire is in the right place and the right washers are installed. In these photos, are the washers in the right place? If not, in what order would I put them in?
  14. Last week
  15. Reddy is right. They should replace it. Sondors is good with responses via email, but not on the weekends I have noticed.
  16. I went into the config on my Fold XS and was able to set the speed to 12mph. By default it is set to 20mph. The maximum setting is 25mph. I hope that helps. Hal
  17. Ha Ha! Great post! For they're hangin' Danny Deever, you can hear the Dead March play,
  18. Both the Sondors Charger & Battery have BMS, PCB,s. They protect the batteries from over charging and burning your house down. https://www.electricbike.com/bmss-what-do-they-do/ ‘That doesn’t mean a BMS can’t fail. Electricbike forum member, Spinning Magnets, a major contributor at electricbike.com, had his garage burn to the ground by a LiPo pack that caught fire during charging. They are more volatile and I’ve not heard of a single report of a Sondors Battery catching on fire on this forum. Luna Cycle states that unplugging their charger is not necessary, after a battery is fully charged but Electrobikeworld states the opposite. I checked with both because I wanted to know their position. Any Attorney would advise their bike manufacture to state the safest procedure to avoid liability in case of a fire or other claimed damage. I used to recharge my batteries inside a wood burning stove in my studio, where I keep my bikes. .... I might be playing with (potential) fire but with 5 chargers and batteries over 5 years I’ve become complacent but confident in the reliability of my chargers, even my two Sondors. I always unplug my chargers. Pray for my Safety. Sondors Original 36V 8.6ah 2amp chargers didn’t have a fan but the next gen, 36V 12.8ah 3amp charger does but neither charger, that I have, are problematic nor is the fan. That’s not true for my Luna 52V Advanced charger, who’s fan is now loud and noisy after a few years of use and if it’s on any resonate surface, it sounds like an angry hornets nest. We’ve heard of noisy fan complaints in the past but I can’t remember an inop fan report. ‘Contact Sondors Support ... They owe you a new charger. REDDY
  19. Hahah, I love that video of your niece. It's really funny because when I was watching it, a Mr. Softee truck was outside my window playing that damn jingle and then it came on the video and I couldn't tell whether it was outside or inside my apartment and why did it suddenly have a much louder echo. HAHAHA. I had to stop the video for a second before I realized it was in the video. That song is so ingrained in my head from mostly working at home these days. Anyway, she obviously was having a lot of fun! Gonna look into a camera like that. Really cool shots and I guess you can edit down to whatever part of the wide-angle view you want.
  20. BexNYC


  21. Cool, that probably means that it is smart enough to stop charging when it goes green. Sondors should clarify this. Maybe the instruction not to leave it plugged in is old and not relevant anymore?
  22. Cool, yeah, that first 30 miles was just my first charge. Last night the battery was down to 3 or 4 bars, kept going back and forth, so it must have been around 50% according to that table that Reddy has. I charged it up last night. I am betting a lot of the juice was used when I did the last 6 miles as fast as I could with the engine running almost continuously, just to see what it could do. Riding in the city is so much fun. It was especially weird back in late March and April when there were so few cars, but traffic is back to normal (possibly worse than before this pandemic hit). Thanks, Reddy, for the link!
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