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  1. Today
  2. Quick update - I emailed the Sondors support group. They requested that I unplug the LCD; and plug it back in again. To no avail. The next step is to send me out a new LCD; but they're on back-order right now, so delivery is expected in a couple more weeks. I'll be honest...I'm skeptical this will fix the issue. But we'll see.
  3. Yesterday
  4. The Magura Brake Project

    My bike-discount.de sourced MT5e brakes got here and they look great. looks like a good source for others as long as the inventory holds up. @Marco the prices they quote already exclude VAT. Still the best web price to USA customers when you work everything in. Saw that Holland only has the levers. I considered buying those for my MT4s on Frankenbike to take advantage of the cutoffs, but the lever costs so much - even when you buy only the blade and not the entire assembly - that it makes no fiscal sense. Especially considering the existence of take-offs in retail that knock the price of the full brakeset waaay down.
  5. 750w Fold X7 24errr

    This main differences between this bike, and a stocker are the 750w motor, 25 amp controller, plus 24" x 65mm double wall alloy rims. I like to ride at night, so I added powered lighting, and a few creature comforts like fenders, a half twist throttle, and a gel pad cruiser seat. Stock Fold pedal gearing is a little on the low side, so I changed the freewheel to get better high speed ratios. Since I have no need for folding ability, I opted for more traditional looking BMX handle bars Compared to my Fatty this bike is about 4 mph slower, because the overall gearing is lower. However, the lower gearing offers a torque advantage, and being 15 lbs lighter doesn't hurt acceleration either. Handling feels quick, and stable. The narrower tires don't try to stand the bike up in the middle of turns, and with 205mm brake rotors it has tons of stopping power, almost too much in the rear. Surprisingly the range hasn't suffered significantly from having a bigger motor, and in fact may be slightly better at certain speeds compared to the 500 motor. Droning along at 15 to 20 mph only puts a very light load on this motor. There's a slight feeling of being under geared, and over muscled like a dirt bike, but that translates to more fun whenever you twist the throttle. This bike shoots across an intersection like a watermelon seed, which makes it a little safer riding in the wilds of the cement jungle
  6. Upgrades

    Hello. I am new to the group. I live in Toronto and I am proud owner of an X , a Thin 7 and have a Fold X on order. Currently we are covered with ice and snow, but spring will be here soon. My plans are to upgrade my bike s and am gathering info and parts. All three will have upgraded controllers to 25A, aftermarket matching LCDs and new 6 pin throttles, all from Electro Bike World www.electrobikeworld.com I see there is helpful info in this forum. I'll keep people informed
  7. 20a controller to a KT-LCD3 wendy

    Throttle is Red + Black - White = signal Blue, and Yellow go to the gray button Green powers the LED power meter
  8. Last week
  9. Whats a good towbar mounted bike rack?

    Typically standard bike racks will fall short as soon as you hear the per-bike weight limit. That rack you mention is good for 65kg but doesn't say what the per bike limit is. I expect its *nowhere* close to adequate. FYI your bike once its got two motors etc. on it is going to be 35+ kg easy. Possibly as high as 40. Motorcycle carriers are the de facto inexpensive and overbuilt option. You will need what we call a Class III trailer hitch over here ... not sure what you call them in the UK. edit: Also look at the 1Up bicycle carrier. The heavy duty version. I use a motorcycle carrier but at some point I'll replace it with a 1Up as strapping the bike down is a 10-minute pain in the a$$.
  10. I'll just float this, see if anyone has already solved it, and can therefore save me a lot of time and effort going down many a dead end. I'm looking for a towbar based bike rack, so that when we go away as a family we can take the bikes with us. Ideally, I'd like something like this eBay item ID: 263536822560 The issue seems to be both the tyres and weight "maybe" so has anyone faced this problem in the past and subsequently found a viable solution they don't mind sharing?
  11. Sondors Thin

    Hey Doug, Reddy
  12. Sondors Thin

    My name is Doug and I just joined the forum. I haven’t bought a Sondors bike yet, but I am researching. Just wonder if anyone has the Thin? If so, would you give me your opinion. Thanks
  13. 20a controller to a KT-LCD3 wendy

    I have the new Display its a KT-LCD3 and a new 20a controller All from Velomobileshop. My dog chewed both ends off befor i could installe them. I know wireing schematic from the LCD and that says red-volts Blue-control black-GND green is Data1 yellow is data2. I have the same colors coming out of the controller.(thats what I have just wires ends are chewed up) I have hooked it up color to same color. Then my thumb control and battier display do not work. and my speed is way off fast going like 10mph it says like 40mph. Any help would be great.
  14. 20a controller to a KT-LCD3 wendy

    Green is display. Red is brakes. Yellow is PAS and black is throttle. I would guess you are looking at buying a new display. edit: There is no blue. HIGO has a blue connector but no such animal on a Sondors bike unless its recent. The newer Sondors should have a yellow throttle HIGO the opposite gender from the PAS (male)
  15. I am trying to install a 20A controller on my Sonders. My puppy chewed the ends off my controller and LCD. Can anyone tell me what colors go together? Blue green red yellow black. I hooked it up by matching the colors but my throutal did not work. My mph where way of and my battier inducator did not work. any help would be great. All parts came from Velomobileshop. KT-LCD3 display.
  16. 20a controller to a KT-LCD3 wendy

    I have a 20A controller by Velomobileshop and a KT-LCD3 display. Long storie short I am installing this and need to know what color wires go together. Blue,green,red,black and yellow. (my puppy chewed the ends off) any help would be great . I tryed just matching the colors together and my battie indocator didnot work thumb controll did not work and speed was way off. Thanks
  17. The 100%-Legality Project (for Germany)

    Since this thread has come back from the dead, I thought I would put something into it I have figured out in the intervening months on the freewheel spacer: That stuff I said above with respect to wrench flats and their need so freewheel removal is not a huge problem turned out to be more right than I thought, for a different reason than I thought. 1. The wrench flats allow the removal of the freewheel as expected. Easy peasy. 2. This was not expected: I was unable to separate the freewheel spacer from the freewheel after removal from the bike ... the two have frozen together. I haven't tried putting the spacer in a vise and getting a REALLY Big Wrench to work on the freewheel with, but I used a LOT of force on it with two Really Big Wrenches in hand and got nowhere. Its possible that the two are not separable and my US$35+shipping freewheel spacer is going to have to be thrown away with the freewheel when it is worn completely out (4000 miles on it and not there yet, but I can see it happening soon... this summer for sure). So if the thing is disposable, lets not overspend on it. Ichi Bike has been selling their spacer for some time and when the above thread was going on they were unavailable. http://www.ichibike.com/product-page/copy-of-ichi-spacer-black I have had one sitting in my parts box for months and it seems usable enough. Same dimensions as the EBikeKit spacer. Just black oxide finish. US$10 cheaper. I will make a project of separating out the one I have when it comes off, but in the meantime I will just pull the Ichi Bike spacer from my tool box, attach it to my replacement freewheel (Clickster?) and then attack the old parts at leisure.
  18. Rear wheel wobbling

    Hi Yann, Any bike shop with a Parks Tool Profesional Truing Stand (the industry standard) and experience in building bicycle wheels ( but not the first shop you went to) should be able to build your new wheel with the double wall (stronger / no holes, your second rim choice not the first or third, which has holed, is weaker and the wrong spoke count 32) and only the bike shop can calculate the new spoke length. I recommend 12 gauge spokes (the spokes that Bafang Specifies for all 8Fun geared hub motors) , for your extra weight application, Wheelsmith, Sapim or DT Swiss spokes and the matching companies brass HD long nipples. The shop will probably have a brand they prefer and stock. All are top quality spokes. Let them specify the individual parts, they’ll have to warrant what they supply and won’t, what you supply. There are spoke length calculators online but let the shop do that also and supply the correct spokes, it’s not for novice wheel builders. You can paint the rim before the build to match the Sondors Original color. You’ll still be able to use the same tire but I couldn’t find which tube type (presta or shrader valve) in the eBay listing but either will be fine but if it’s presta you’ll need a new tube. The wider new rims spoke spacing, should also help in building a more robust new wheel. I used a 100mm rear rim on my own new wheel build so it would be more robust. Contact the seller. https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Bike-Rim-559-80-Fat-Snowbike-36-hole-black/392007619296?hash=item5b457992e0:g:CA0AAOSwC-xay-V8 and ask them for the tube valve type for that rim so you’ll know you have the right tube and if it’s presta you can get that from the shop that builds the wheel. Reddy
  19. Rear wheel wobbling

    Hi guys, Thank you very much for you answers, I have been to a bike shop and the guy thinks I need to rebuild the wheel. Problem is, he can't do it since he said that all the gear he has is for regular bikes, and I should contact the manufacturer. So I suppose my next move will be to order a new rim & spokes, as Reddy was advising. My bike is from 2016 (original fat one), does any one have any link for rim and/or spokes that I could use for reference ? Is there a particular thing to be careful with when ordering them ? I believe once I have the dimensions right, if I bring rim + spoke to a bike shop they might be able to fix it ? Thanks again for your help. Edit: I had a look on the forum and saw another of you posts Reddy, I believe the dimensions I'm looking for are 26"x80mm. I came across this one on Ebay, would that fit ? (I live in Dublin, Ireland, so ebay.com will probably be too expensive in terms of shipping). I found this model, would that be alright ? https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Alex-26-x-80mm-Fat-Bike-Rim-BLIZZERK-PRO-32H-Presta-Valve-Hole-850g-BLACK/281624562635?hash=item419221cbcb:g:BtYAAOSwEeFU~mdJ Edit 2: Or this one, way cheaper: https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Bike-Rim-559-80-Fat-Snowbike-36-hole-black/392007619296?hash=item5b457992e0:g:CA0AAOSwC-xay-V8 Also this model which is way cheaper but wider (96mm), so I guess that would require new tube and tire ? https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Bike-Rim-559-96-Fat-Snowbike-32-hole-black/391712736370?hash=item5b33e60472:g:OB4AAOSwXkJay-VJ
  20. Startup password

    Thanks Andi. I got to that screen and was able to set a number but could not find anything that said Y or N for password enable
  21. Startup password

    Hi, it's stated in the manual how to do that. Did you try it out?
  22. Hi all! I recently got a new fold x 7 speed. I want to add a startup password to make the bike a little safer when I run into a store quickly etc. I looked at the manual for the new lcd these bikes ship with but was not able to figure it out. I pressed the + and- to get to settings then pressed the + and - again and scrolled to the psd 8 section for password. I added a password one digit at a time but when I exit back to the main screen or power on off nothing happens. I assume I need to switch password startup to ON but can’t find anywhere to do this. Can anyone tell me how to add a startup password? Thanks!
  23. Replacement Brake Pads

    I'm not that particular but these are what I've been using https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pr-TruckerCo-S-Disc-Brake-Pads-Shimano-Deore-Tektro-Gemini-Tektro-Mota-osm8/261191663967?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  24. Replacement Brake Pads

    Tektro and Shimano use the same pads.
  25. TwoWheelsMadness

  26. Replacement Brake Pads

    These are by far my favorite replacment pads because they are soft, offer superior stopping power, wet or dry (you can lock up both wheels they grab so good, especially if you’ve upgraded disc to 203mm front and 180mm rear) and they’re cheap enough to buy a pannier full of them for the price of some other single set pad offerings... because they are soft they do wear faster (though I’ve never worn a set out) but at every brake adjustment, I just replacment them, with a new set and it returns the brake adjustments back to where they were, usually only needing the inner back plate adjustment and maybe barrel adjustments....For me, cable stretch is no longer a regular issue requiring adjustments, until I replace the cables again. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pair-Bike-Bicycle-Disc-Brake-Resin-Pads-Fr-Shimano-M375-M395-M446-M515-TEKTRO-g-/192263551504?hash=item2cc3ccfa10 Reddy
  27. Replacement Brake Pads

    Slintered iron pads, I initially switched to for better performance. Superior wet braking performance and long lasting pads but noisy (grinding sound) and promotes disc wear. I switched from these when I switched to a 203mm rotor front and 180mm rotor rear. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Full-Metal-Disc-Brake-pads-for-TEKTRO-Aquila-Auriga-Auriga-E-Comp-Auriga-Pro-Draco-HD330/32474832130.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.88qXt2 Reddy
  28. Earlier
  29. Rear wheel wobbling

    Outside possibility that the axle is broken. Definitely take it to a bike shop, and stop riding it.
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