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  1. Yesterday
  2. Thanks Sally!. Yeah, some are telling me to get a new battery to see if that's it. However that's some expensive troubleshooting. Besides I think I want to upgrade mine soon. I'm hoping it's the controller. I understand the Facebook thing. I have an account to access family but haven't posted in years!.
  3. I reluctantly joined Facebook this morning to have access to the Owners forum and have reported my story both there and to tech support as Ready Kilowatt suggested. I'll let you know what I find out.
  4. I have an original Sondors indigogo fat tire bike. Recently started doing the exact same thing. After 15 min or so everything goes dead. I recycle the battery switch and everything works for a few minutes and then goes dead again. Keeps doing this until charged again and the whole process starts over. Bike has under 250 miles on it. Not sure if battery or controller!
  5. My initial recommendation stands on the upgrades. BUT, If you want more speed and less personal physical input, like your wife’s MURF (she’s got the equivalent of a Sondors XS), all you’ll have to do is install the 750Watt motor. Want to go further, so your bike kicks her bike’s butt?, Next install a 52V Battery. If you do this final 52v upgrade, you can offer your Sondors 48V battery for sale here along with your Sondors Controller & LCD, in our Marketplace listings and list it on the Sondors Storm Owners Group Page on Facebook, “4Sale”. I like the looks of you wife’s Kenda Juggernaut tires, Member Housman used them on his conversion but they have some of the highest rolling resistance numbers in the Fat Tire Comparison Results. Not a consideration if your on the beach. Was 98° here Today .... REDDY
  6. Last week
  7. That sounds like a Sondors Warranty Issue and a not uncommon controller problem. You need to go to the Sondors Storm Owners Group on Facebook. Once there ask to join. Once inside, there is a link to a support form that you can use to get to Sondors tech support. While in the Group, I suggest opening up a thread and asking the community for help on this as well. That will trigger folks' to tag the Sondors support reps who frequent that group and who are tasked with fast-tracking help in situations like yours - assuming they do not see your post themselves and contact you directly. I cant be of any help with that as this is the owners group and not part of the Sondors Company. We’re owned and operated by other owners to help other owners with problems and upgrades. I don’t do FaceStool or any other Social Media except serve here. REDDY
  8. Had a few good rides on my new Step bike. Then did 20 miles and had problems with the motor. Pedaling along at level one and got a few 1-2 second surges of power as if I had briefly hit the throttle , then the LCD went blank and the bike loses power. In the next few outings this problem no longer requires a 20 mile warmup. Happens almost immediately. Recharging the battery has not helped. Unconnecting and reconnecting all of the electrical cable connections has not resolved the issue. How do I test to see where the problem exists? Has anyone else experienced the same?
  9. this is great, exactly what I needed, thanks for the hand holding.. no, she has the MURF.. more of a beach cruiser set up. 750watt motor. specs here https://murfelectricbikes.com/collections/e-bikes/products/the-fat-murf This bikes blows me out of the water.. I rode it and my top speed on it is 29mph, but the crank set is not set up for that, so your peddling like an idiot, but super strong bike.. but its also a bit awkward.. like you almost can't use any peddle assist more than 2/3 cause it just takes off.. your cadence almost does not match the speed of the bike.. your almost doing nothing, which I don't want.. I still want to feel like I am ridding a bike.
  10. How do i remove the pedal bushing inserts from my crank arms
  11. Contessa


  12. How do you remove the pedal bushing inserts from your crank arms .
  13. The best thing for stripped pedals is pedal bushing inserts
  14. Jcher


  15. Well that’s not much information, like Which Sondors eBike are you referencing and Which LCD is reporting the error code? There is a plethora of both. But the off the top of my head guess would be one of your brake levers is not releasing all the way and the brake cut-off switch is otherwise engaged, not allowing current to be delivered to the motor. Could be that one of the brake Higo connectors has unplugged, is damaged or a fall of or on the bike damaged a lever and the cut-off switch, within. REDDY
  16. Error code 25, bike won’t run. All cables look connected
  17. If you’ve tried your vendor and Bafang in China and they were no help, I have no idea but Bruce Choate on Facebook would be my only guess who might have an idea or a source for used magnets if that’s even an option considering the marking and repositioning sequence of re-gluing magnets in motors. REDDY
  18. Questions? It takes the whole Forum to Help a fellow eBiker and that’s why we’re here. Well, answering backwards and your last thoughts first, I sold my VW Jetta TDI 2 years ago because it was such a Gas Hog. I had to buy 13 gal of Diesel every 60 Days and it only consistently got 50mpg )). When I decided to just rely on my bikes for transportation, primarily my Electric Black Lightning (I own 12 other bikes), I’m spoiled by the extra speed and ability to maintain my physical effort, regardless of wind, cargo load or terrain, with electricity, I knew I would need a backup and I bought back my Electric White Lightning, I had sold to a friend. I am enjoying the EWL as a single speed but it has real limitations and it’s truly an Exercycle. With It’s 58T Chainring and the stock 16T Freewheel in back, it’s a major effort to spin up to the cruse speeds that I try and maintain on my routes that matches my natural most comfortable fast cadence. It’s a high intensity effort from every stop sign or light at cross streets on my routes, to get up to 20mph then it has a narrow comfort range. To ride @ 30 mph, which I usually do on the last couple of miles of my routes, returning home, I spinning at my maximum cadence, just to keep that high cadence effort part of the workout. With my other ebike, the EBL, the torque and acceleration are addictive and the cadence sweet spot is much wider compared to “The White” which is a much narrower human power comfort zone, RPM & MPH, that usually results in riding it faster than “The Black”. But the EWL is transitional and will next spring be, 750Watt Bafang, 35Amp Controller, 60V and 7 speed. As to upgrading your own bike, the tenant I live by is, “If One Man (or woman) Can Do It .... Another Man Can Do It !” If you are Handy with Hand Tools and have a basic Mechanical Aptitude, I have no doubt you can do it. It Ain’t Rocket Science .... Until you get to over 60 Volts. )) 🚀 One thing I forgot to mention is that when you upgrade to any aftermarket controller, the Sondors LCD won’t be compatible , so the Controller and matching aftermarket LCD (several to consider) will need to be purchased together from Bolton. You will not be able to see an improvement in top Speed or Acceleration without the LCD/Controller and possibly the Battery upgrade, to the level you desire. You can try it with out the most expensive element, the Battery, and see if it meets your mission. You can always change the controller to battery connection, to an After Market Battery configuration (splicing wires with butt splices, No Big Whoop) if you decide, later to upgrade to the 52V Battery that has 10% more power than the 48V. Everything electrical you’ll need, you can get from Bolton and as with any online eBike upgrade purchase, either call or email Bolton with your desires, planned purchases and questions before placing an order. They can best advise you on comparability and availability. Here is the breakdown: And it will cost more than you’ll want to spend but you won’t be sorry, even with the wind upsetting your hair and bugs in your teeth! Controller for your existing 500watt motor and Sondors 48v triangle battery. https://boltonebikes.com/collections/motor-controllers-and-displays/products/36v-48v-25a-sondors-motor-controller-free-shipping Compatible LCD ...You have a couple of choices, Color $$$ or Monochrome $ Bolton continually sells out their inventory but they restock frequently. They are the best aftermarket vendor we trust. https://boltonebikes.com/collections/motor-controllers-and-displays/products/36v-48v-25a-sondors-motor-controller-free-shipping https://boltonebikes.com/collections/motor-controllers-and-displays/products/sondors-lcd-screen-free-shipping The Battery is a big investment and you might want to try your Sondors 48V first since its brand new and see if it fits your needs. Otherwise this is Bolton’s 52V upgrade, free shipping (which can be costly from other vendors) complete with Charger. If you decide to just go for the 52V now, it requires the same 25Amp Controller but a different version with a different Battery Plug to match the 52V.’s. Battery https://boltonebikes.com/collections/batteries/products/48v-20-3ah-triangle-lithium-battery Be sure to specify, in conversations, and when ordering, that you want the 25Amp controller with the battery plug or dongle to utilize the 52V battery you are ordering, if this is your desire. https://boltonebikes.com/collections/motor-controllers-and-displays/products/36v-48v-25a-sondors-motor-controller-free-shipping-1 To take advantage of the higher speeds you’ll be realizing ... in order to keep up with your legs, you’ll need to remove your existing Sondors crankset (42T) and install another crankset with a higher tooth count. Anywhere from 52T to 56T the highest I’d recommend. And that’s what I would, 56T. You’ll need a crank puller tool. Reference YouTube videos on the method of pulling and installing cranks. https://www.amazon.com/Crankset-Crankarms-Litepro-Folding-Protective/dp/B072C4XG4J/ref=pd_sbs_468_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B072C4XG4J&pd_rd_r=cb10b319-8058-4db9-a3b4-3a87cce77fae&pd_rd_w=xXEt2&pd_rd_wg=IHHi3&pf_rd_p=d66372fe-68a6-48a3-90ec-41d7f64212be&pf_rd_r=314M9C9JY19SPT9RHHRT&psc=1&refRID=314M9C9JY19SPT9RHHRT Because the new tooth count is larger than 42T, your old chain will be too short and you’ll need to buy another chain to add links to your almost new chain on your Sondors X (this is best accomplished with the help of a Bike Shop) or buy two new better chains (this is what I use and it’s the best for our upgrade applications with the new cranksets, nickel plated, easy to see when it’s dirty & keep clean and long wearing). There are chain lube recommendations here on the forum and on the interweb, online. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BV540/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Unless you want to buy a chain break tool and learn how to size and use quick connects to connect chains (Youtube videos) this is also best left to a bike shop while you learn how, while it's being done, Owner Assisted. There are also videos on YouTube to complete the chain breaking, sizing and installing quick connects. Buy all the desired parts before you dive into upgrading. Let me take a wild but educated guess that your Wife bought a RadRover in some configuration. The following is good or bad news depending on who’s riding the Rover. “it Ain’t Got a 750 Watt Motor. See : https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7K87AIiXFpY&feature=youtu.be But is she’s kick’n your butt on speed, she either has a different brand of eBike or her RR has higher Amp delivery Controller than your Sondors X, if your battery voltages (48V) are equal. REDDY
  19. right on, thanks! I tightened the crank and slathered everything (well, mainly the chain) in triflow and for now the squeak is gone. Thinking of replacing the entire crankset with higher quality but for now I'll stick with what came standard.
  20. So, I finally was able to get the case of the Bafang rear hub motor down off the shaft to expose the magnets, so that I could re-epoxy them. The first one I removed jumped from my fingers and flew onto another magnet close by, and shattered in 20 pieces. Does anyone have any idea where more magnets can be purchased? Sondors said they have no idea.
  21. I also love your approach of 2 bike set up.. single speed and full traditional.. hmm.. thats interesting! how much would this set up be, and would I change out the front sprocket for that setup as well?? 750Watt Bafang, 52V 18650GA , High Power, Long Range Triangle Battery Pack and a 35Amp controller. ok, totally geeking out on this stuff
  22. I too suggest retightening the crank. I had the same problem on my new Fold XS a few weeks ago. The first time I retightened them nothing happened, and the sound reappeared on my next ride. I tightened them again and while tightening the right crank I heard a distinct click. The sound has not reappeared. Good luck!
  23. Welcome Jay. The traditional highest performance modification on the Sondors Fat Bikes are 750Watt Bafang, 52V 18650GA , High Power, Long Range Triangle Battery Pack and a 35Amp controller. That’s the basics on my highly modified, “Original Indiegogo Campaign Fat”, now the “Electric Black Lightning”. Its top speed is 33Mph pedaling like Lance Legstrong with my shoes on fire. Only the Frame, Fork, Battery Box and Bottom Bracket are original. That being said, my second generation, Kickstarter Campaign, Sondors “Custom Narrow” (no longer offered), now the “Electric White Lightning”, single speed, with the 350 Watt Bafang, 52V 18650GA, High Power, Long Range Triangle Battery Pack and a 25Amp Controller, is also a 33mph bike but you can only pedal it to 30mph at max cadence, at least mine and I’m a life long cyclist. It takes longer to get up to speed than, “The Black” but its 40pounds lighter, with Narrower Wheels & Tires and a much nimbler handling bike. It’s also my bike for extended trips into the vast DFW-MetroStool on the network of commuter trains because it can hang on the Bike Rack Hooks. My suggestion for you would be to upgrade to the 25Amp controller for the 500Watt Bafang & a 52V Battery (provides 10% more capacity and higher speeds than the 48V) from BoltoneBikes.com and install a new crankset with a 52 to 56T Chainring. You should be able to cruise @ 25mph with just a little more effort than normal and reach 28-30mph topped out. Since you’re an experienced cyclist you might eke out a few more in a sprint. Installing upgrade tires with something with less rolling resistance but only with the same size diameter and circumference because anything less will reduce speed and throw your LCD reading off, will help with topend. Be sure and add fotos of your bike and adventures to our Gallery. Open forum pictures get lost in the timeline. REDDY
  24. HI There! I just bought a Orginal X and have been using it for the past week. I really love it and have put 150 miles on this week just running errands. It has been super fun! A bit about me..I use the bike to get me to and from Crossfit and Yoga... love going out to dinner on the bike, my wife just got one as well.. another brand but to each their own 😉. We live in a very nice place to have an electric bike, weather is good all year round, and there is a village with everything we need about a mile away, so its perfect for post office, bank, lunch, meetings, coffee, groceries. I am a professional photographer by day and shoot advertising mostly, you can see more of that here: http://www.jayreilly.com I post a lot of SONDORS photos on my instagram which is here: http://www.instagram.com/jayreilly.photo I am possible interested in the XS or maybe tweaking out my X for a little more torque.. I use my bike all the time for traffic that is moving 25 mph.. so it would be nice to safely try to match their flow a bit more.. any suggestions.. I am interested in group meetups if they exist.. and I guess that's it.. Jay Reilly
  25. Hello Maximum, Tighten both the Square Taper Crank Bolts after adjusting/tightening the Bottom Bracket Retainers. Very common malady. Conventional Wisdom is to coat the spindle tapers with the lightest, thin coat of Phil Wood Waterproof Grease. All the bottom brackets on the 4 Chinese Manufactured Bikes were dry. Does the sound change when you pedal out of the saddle? REDDY
  26. So I've ridden about 50 miles on my new Thin and it started this odd squeaking which seems to come from the crankset that I can't seem to figure out. It's not crackling or creaking like an old worn out bottom bracket/bearings problem (which can't be the case as I just bought the dang bike). It happens at the exact same spot on crank rotation whether I pedal backwards or forwards, on the street or on the bike stand. Nothing seems out of alignment. It's starting to drive me insane, as if a tiny mouse is living in my cranks and at every revolution it lets out a squeak. Any ideas?
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